Hi,

I am a new modeler and for my first model I picked up a P-38J model from Revell. It is 1:48 scale. However, I would like to paint it as some of them looked in Normandy. The decals included do not work for this scheme, so I was wondering where I would find some that did. I have looked but am having a hard time finding sites with 3rd party things for models.

Also, I was wondering what kind of paint will give me the bare aluminum look. The paint list says I need "aluminum" paint. If I just spray that on will I have good results? How do you pros get them to look so much like real metal?

And last question. I was looking at different cockpits for the model. I came across these:

http://www.squadron.com/NoStock.asp?item=RM5479

http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=LF4020

http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=TD48455

http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=TD49008

Now they all say they are for a specific kit. However, none of them are for the Monogram/Revell kit. Does that matter? They are all the same scale as my kit what makes one of them for this kit and not for the next?

Thanks a lot,

-Mike

I was also wondering if, in fact, and P-38s where painted like the picture attached. I've been looking the last two days and can't find a real one or find anything out about one. On most P38s they'll tell you the pilot and a little history. Is this one made up?

Mike,

First off, welcome to Aeroscale and to modeling. You picked a cool bird to cut your teeth with! I have yet to build a P-38 and will look forward to any pics you post here.

Getting to your questions. Testors Metalizers are a buff-able paint in various types of metal. They work real slick and look good. Spray, dry, buff with a soft cloth and seal. As for the other items, you may want to hold off getting more stuff for the kit. If this is your first one, try to build it as it comes. The Photo Etch (PE) cockpits can be difficult, some times requiring a bit of surgery to get them to fit, even if they are for a specific kit.

Lastly, keep coming back here. The folks are just super and you will learn a lot.

-Derek

Mike - the scheme for Mama's Boy is not made up, it's a real scheme used on a P38J of the 55th F.S. "Mama's Boy", piloted by Lt. Edwin Wasil



As to the Natural Metal Finish, follow what Derek had to say and I think you'll be pleased. There are lots of other methods out there, but this one will get you started.

Welcome to the forums Mike! Though I did not show it on the forums, the first model I did after getting back into the hobby was that exact same kit. With care it should build into a nice representation of the P-38J, but keep in mind that you MUST stuff the nose and the engines with as much lead weight as you possibly can to ensure you won't have a tail sitter. One option is to use lead birdshot of the smallest gauge you can find. This can be found in many sporting goods stores. Leave off the panels for the nose and the nacelles for the engines until you get it so full of lead it stands on its legs properly.

One more thing to watch out for is the fit of the paneling on the nose. When I built my kit it had a horrible step effect where the nose panels were wider than the rest of the nose they attached to. Have the panels ready before joining the fuselage halves together and do a test fit before gluing, then use shims if needed to correct this. You can always follow up with filler putty later if there are some gaps. Gap filling is much more easy than having to re-skin a nose that is too narrow.

Because the kit has raised panel lines, be very careful about how you fit parts together to avoid having to heavily sand seams as this will destroy the detail. Nigel Julian posted an excellent tutorial in the beginners section on filling gaps without sanding here.

I have had acceptable results using plain old Testors Silver paint for a natural metal finish. Using most normal aluminum paints that aren't the buffing kind look too dark in my opinion. My only reservation about Metalizer paints is that from what I have read they want you to spray it on without priming the surface first. This means you have to get everything perfect before painting, while with primer you can use the coat to help highlight any remaining imperfections before you paint. Enamel based silver paint is cheaper too... (I am a cheap fellow.)

Thank you very much for the informative replies guys. I will definitely use the advice you've all offered. It is my first model, I hope it comes out decent. I was wondering if someone could give me a basic idea of the work flow? Do you paint all of the model on the sprue and then cut them off sand them down and assemble? Or do you do it in some other manner? My first instinct would be to paint the model on the sprue but I guess that would be difficult or unneeded for everything except the cockpit parts. Do you prime all the parts on the sprue or cut them off first?

The model does have raised panel lines like you mentioned Michael. I was planing on preshading the lines of my model, thinking they would be recessed, following this instructional video: http://www.scaleworkshop.com/workshop/video4bg_2.htm would the techniques still apply or must another technique be used? And how would you go about washing the lines, I don't think the technique, which I was also going to use, in this video would work either: http://www.scaleworkshop.com/workshop/video9bg_1.htm

Lots of questions, I'm sorry. But, one other thing regarding sprues. I've seen sprue cutters for close to $20.00 at my LHS. I was wondering if these are better than just side cutters I could get at a hardware store.

Thanks a lot, I appreciate the help,

-Mike

Mike,

Great questions. For painting on sprues or not, I do both, depending of the part. If it is something that needs to be sanded a bit, such as a prop and landing gear, I remove it. You will figure it out, which it why its smart not to throw too much money at your first few kits. Keep it simple, then you can dive into the insane, like many of us here have.

Tools bought at hardware stores are fine too. Many times anything with the word "hobby" in front of it can get higher prices. But there is something to be said about supporting your LHS. Keep us updated!

-Derek

It depends on what company makes the sprue cutters. I found some sprue cutters made by Squadron for around 8 or 9 bucks if I remember correctly. You can get them from their website here.