I'm gonna sound like a total noob here but does anyone have any easy solutions to removing superglue fog? The reason I ask is I recently brought down off the ceiling my monogram 1/48 B-17 "Memphis Belle" and the glue gave way leaving me with some wonderfull parting along the join lines. I decided once i've got rid of my backlog i'm going to strip this back and rebuild it but unfortunately the nose and cockpit windows are fogged and i dont really fancy trying to sand them down Any tips would be welcome.

Noob? Sounds like you play WOW or something!

I've never tried it on clear parts, but i've fixed lightly fogged areas on model car gloss finishes and chrome parts simply by using floor polish. The one i use (we don't have Future/Clear) is called Pledge One Go and is thinner than clear. I guess it's worth trying Future on the clear parts anyway- even if it doesn't work it can just be cleaned off with alcohol anyway.

Andrew.

I'd try nail polishing sticks and then would use Future on clear parts.

Hi,

Wouldn't it just be easier and quicker to replace with a Vac form canopy. Hannants have them for a B-17G in 1/48 for about a fiver. I am pretty sure in saying the canopy on the B-17 didn't change through the model range.

Steve

nope not WOW but Counterstrike, Battlefield, Call of Duty and anything else thats third person shoot em up.

I would be an option but i'm unsure if there is any diference between the noses of the F and G variants as the G had a chin turret.

Imight have to bite the bullet and just experiment

Hi
Send revell-Monogram a mail and ask for a replacement. If they don´t answer I would try to vac a new set or get the squadron set for the rebuild.
One tip can be to deep the cleer parts in Jonssons before gluing them in place. The Johsson will protect the clear part from superglue.I´ll use Humbrols clearfix or whiteglue for the clear parts.

The fog is a chemical reaction to the glue and it depends on the "thickness" of the affected plastic whether it is easy to remove or not.

I have a Tamiya polishing pasta (sold in the same kind of "toothpaste packaging" like the Tamiya putty).

Some clear parts (e.g. canopies of the academy su 27) have very disturbing seams over the clear area left by the mold.

I have used this stuff to polish these canopies after carefully scratching away theseseams with an exacto knife and it worked perfectly.

Just put some pasta on a piece of cloth and "rub away". A couple of minutes later its perfect.

I did think about AM stuff but it all seems to be for a G variant and mine is an F the worse offender is the nose cone transparency and I think these were different between the variants (But i could be wrong)

I bit the bullet at the weekend and removed the nose transparency to paint strip it with oven cleaner and to test a theory I had that the oven cleaner would remove the fog , and by golly it did so thats another tip to add to the list.

Roket Odourless cyano glue does not cause fogging. Evo Stick have a new glue on the market called Serious Glue. It's something like a contact adhesive without any solvent. It should be suitable for clear parts and is about as strong as superglue (CA) . About £5 a tube but you get more than a bottle of Superglue.

I bought some glue from Gator over on the dirty armour side of things - called gator glue, it is an acrylic superglue replacement, it don't fog canopies, and is pretty strong.

Andy

Earlier you refered to the differences between -F and -G models of the B-17 in the nose. For the production aircraft the nose cone(the glass bit) was nearly identical, save for the slight change in curvature of the lower edge of the glass(the flat portion the sight aimed out of). In scale, this difference seldom, if ever is accounted for as the arc is so slight. Using a G-model nose cone should give you no issues at all.

I've fogged a canopy with super glue the other day. You can take it off by sanding it (it actually damages the canopy, so you cannot "wipe" it with anything... you have to sand the damaged area till it's clear). You will need several grades of fine sanding paper (3000, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000) and some polishing compound like tamiya's (coarse, fine, finish).

In this months issue (Dec.07) of FSM, readers tip section, one guy suggests dipping a Q-tip into rubbing alcohol and rub it hard onto the fog/stain. Repeat if it dosen't come off the first time. I haven't tried this...but what's it going to hurt.

Joe

HobbyTown USA carries a line of superglues: Bob Smith Industries, Inc., one of which is fog-free. I used it on my Finnish Buffalo canopy.

BSI offers a Adhesive Selection Chart