Surfing the web, I saw terrible things happend while applicate Roden Decals on a model.

As I'm building a Roden model too and want to use the decals from the box I wonder if someone has a good idea for a save application of these difficult to handle decals.

(I'm not asking for the advise not to use the Roden decals!)

Thanks for any help!

Regards
Öcsi

Hi Ocsi , it will help to apply a few coats of gloss over the decals . Cut as close as you can to eliminate any carrier film . Lots of decal set and supersol are needed to help them lie flat .
You can even use future and when still wet lay the decal down and the apply more future which seems to aid in softening the decal .

I've used Roden lozenge "decals" on 1/72 scale Fokker DVII. What I used was the mix of PVA + water. Help me a lot. Altough it was more PVA than water (in terms of ratio) in the mix. Hope it helps.

Hello -

Quick question. Is PVA the same as Future Floor wax...?

Hi Johannes!

PVA is a white glue. It's not Future Floor Wax.

Thanks roxter, I've got that exact kit coming pu. Are you using pva cos the decals plain just dont stick?

mainly cos they don't stick. I even used thin CA to attach the decal in some places

Actually I found them (1/48 sheets) typical of short run decals. They are placed on a carrier film with the design on top using coloured inks. These are not sealed with another carrier on top. So before you get them wet and before you cut up the sheet shoot it with a gloss (preferably lacquer) coat. Let dry thoroughly. Copper State Models lozenge are type the same and certain concerns should be dealt with. These types of decals tend to be brittle even wet and the best thing to do is use very warm water to immerse them in. This will tend to soften the carrier film enough for immediate placement on the glossy kit surface. As the water tends to cool off you will need to replace it with warmer water. The drag comes with the rib tapes. But this is needed to do the lozenge that way it was originally. Always use a very sharp Xacto #11 blade when cutting the tin strips. and lightly score the decals before cutting all the way through. This will keep the surface ink from fracturing. Work with an optivsor and be very deliberate. Easily Eagle Strike is the best decal going for either 4 or 5 colour lozenge. But if you intend on using the Roden kit decals then bear in mind the concerns I've outlined and it will go easier.

Just for the grins of it, here is a bit of fun. One of my 1/48 Roden Fokker D. VII builds. This is kit #417. With the kit lozenge. The figures are modified Eduard items.




Click Here.

Thank's for the answers. There is a lot to think about.

Actually I went only once in trouble with a decal. Unfortunately it was a Rodendecal.

Normally I use a mixture of warm water and vinegary essence to immerse them in. Then I wait until they start to float. Then I let them float in the right position on a really wet suface. The only disadvantage with this method is, that it reduce the adhesion of the decal on the surface. Mayby polyvinylalcohol will help!

Thank's again.
Öcsi

PS: Me lucky guy not building a lozenge covered model

Bumping this up for GB members working with Roden decals.

Thanks Stephen,
I have noticed that if care is used to stop tears while positioning Roden decals can be manoeuvred into the correct spot. Even if wrinkles are not visible after dousing the Roden decals with Gunze Sangyo decal liquids they do seem to make the decals conform to the underground without problems.
Really very stiff decals though,
Julian

I've got three of theirs in my stash so I'll take note of this when I come to do them.
Would Microscale Liquid decal film help them in any way?

The main key to get it to work is very warm water. Any hotter, I can't recommend. if you know what I mean. Do not burn yourself.

I don't buy Roden models BECAUSE of the decals. I don't think I should be buying a kit, and then have to go out and buy another set elsewhere.

That certainly is a trouble free approach to Roden decals
Same sort of thing makes my blood boil with large scale model ships: you pay a hefty price for the basic kit and then have to double or triple the price by buying PE railings etc. Still, seems to be the way things work.................
Cheers,
Julian

Tried that, didn't seem to make much difference.
Julian

Nuts, thought it might help to give them a bit more back bone and stop them tearing. On the plus side the kits I have do have lots of decal options so experimenting can't hurt.
So am I right in saying that the keys to success are very warm water, micro sol and set and a sacrifice to the modeling gods?

I would add to that a liberal dousing with Gunze Sangyo Mr. Decal softer and set, dance around the modelling table in your undies while sprinkling magic dust over the build, burn incense and chant "adhere, adhere, stick, stick" while doing this and you might have a chance of pulling it off
Julian

maybe a boycot would make Roden listen to their frustrated customers.

They seem to have. Roden's decals in the past year or so have been much different from the horrid ones we've been discussing here. There's still much room for improvement, but they're superior to those of days gone by. They're glossy, tough, flexible and actually react to setting solutions much of the time.

The printing could stand to become sharper and Roden needs to dedicate more time to researching colours.

Before we go there check this out.

Nice one Stephen,
the decals are clunky but they can be used. Just takes some TLC and a lot of patience and chemicals
There are other firms that deserve a boycott more IMHO,
Julian

I'm not even going to get into that one!
However, from what I've seen of their kits and read about the company I like them and what they're doing. WWI aircraft are still a niche market and making the kits at all three popular scales instead of one was a good idea. As long as they keep up making interesting kits they should be around for a long time.

I've built one Roden kit, the Sopwith Strutter Comic fighter, most of the decals, went on ok but the upper wing cockades disintegrated completely and the rudder flashes weren't far behind. Used Eduard F.2B decals to decorate the wings, now have an F2B without wing cockades and can't get any more. The kit was good apart from the decals. The decals that I did use were held together with decalfix before application. Most manufacturers have their faults, decals are Rodens, wouldn't stop me buying them,but I would be very careful how I approached the decals.

I'm sure that if you ask really nicely, Mal will sell you a set of masks for your Brisfit which will quite neatly solve the missing decal problem.