Hi. I just started Tamiyas 1/48 scale Dornier Do 335, the heavily armed version. the cockpit parts are painted and the details picked out and drybrushed. I started on the Eduard seatbelts. The interior of the gear doors are painted and washed and dullcoated as are all the actuators.The fuel tank is painted and attached to its rack. The landing gear are dryfitted to the gear doors fo now. I love the look of this pilot's seat, I left it gloss black to give some contrast in the cockpit. I punched out the decals from the kit decal sheet and applied them to the instrument panel using Future as glue and then some drops of Future for glass. I'll keep you guys and gals posted, thanks for looking, Wingman out.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
Dornier Do 335 B-2
wingman
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 04:57 AM UTC
wingman
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Posted: Thursday, January 29, 2009 - 10:17 AM UTC
Hi. Just a quick update. Cockpit parts have been installed with Eduard belts. The wing spar and the fuel tank and the actuators for the bomb bay doors have been attached. The wheels received a wash of Future and artist oils with the tires getting a light spray of Floquil's British Dark Earth[too bad they don't make that paint anymore]. This aircraft will be displayed on a base with real dirt. I did a dry fit with the fuselage halves and everything looks great so far. Thanks for looking, Wingman out.
buggalugs
Australian Capital Territory, Australia
Joined: June 06, 2007
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Posted: Friday, January 30, 2009 - 08:51 AM UTC
Hi Wingman
looks great - might be just what I need to get me to drag mine out of the stash. I particularly like the earth on the tyres and the streaked effect on the fuel tank - how did you do the streaking?
cheers Brad
looks great - might be just what I need to get me to drag mine out of the stash. I particularly like the earth on the tyres and the streaked effect on the fuel tank - how did you do the streaking?
cheers Brad
wingman
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Friday, January 30, 2009 - 09:46 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Brad, thanks. The streaking was done by toning down ModelMaster Chrome Silver with a little RawUmber artist oil paint[read that in a Verlinden book] I put a little on a wide flat brush, wiped the brush on a paper towel until almost all of it was off[drybrushing] and proceded to lightly streak the fuel tank. I wanted it to look a little weathered. I attached the whole assembly that you see in the first photo on the second post to one of the fuselage sides and then did a dry fit with the other half and it looks great as far as fit goes. I painted the exterior of all the doors and the bottoms of the tailplanes today. I purchased this model from Squadron awhile back for about ten bucks, I should of picked up a few of them. I'll keep you guys posted,thanks for the knid comments and thanks for looking, Wingman out.Hi Wingman
looks great - might be just what I need to get me to drag mine out of the stash. I particularly like the earth on the tyres and the streaked effect on the fuel tank - how did you do the streaking?
cheers Brad
wingman
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2009 - 02:19 PM UTC
Hello. Here's another update. The props were painted and a Future wash applied to the hubs although you'll barely be able to see this. The spinners were painted and need some weathering yet. The rear radiator was assembled, painted and weathered with the same Future wash as the prop hubs and all this was dullcoated with ModelMaster Dullcoat. The innards were installed to one of the fuselage halves. The fit of the fuselage halves looks very good, the halves will probably go together Sunday. The windscreen and the canopy were dipped in Future, the dry fit of those look nice too. The canopy will be posed open. Thanks for looking, Wingman out.
VonCuda
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Saturday, January 31, 2009 - 02:36 PM UTC
I've been waiting on you to start this one ever since you mentioned it on your other build thread. This is the same kit I plan on building for the Luft 46 campaign later in the year so I'll be watching this one closely. The dry brushing really makes a big difference. Everything looks great (as usual) so far.
Hermon
Hermon
Yeti123
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2009 - 01:19 PM UTC
This is really turning out nice. I have never tried the future wash technique. What paint do you mix with the future?
Taylor
Taylor
wingman
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2009 - 04:18 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks Hermon. I didn't get to assemble the fuselage halves today[Sunday]. I'll start to mask the clear parts with bare metal foil on Monday, thanks again for following the build, Wingman out.I've been waiting on you to start this one ever since you mentioned it on your other build thread. This is the same kit I plan on building for the Luft 46 campaign later in the year so I'll be watching this one closely. The dry brushing really makes a big difference. Everything looks great (as usual) so far.
Hermon
wingman
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Posted: Sunday, February 01, 2009 - 04:29 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks Taylor. First I have to give credit to Tony Bell. I got the idea from him from a 1/48 scaleP-47D that he built over on Hyperscale. He used the wash on his engine, I'm not sure if he used it anywhere else on his build. For this build I mixed Raw Umber acryllic artist oil paint[the kind in the tube] with water. I use distilled water because it mixes well with the acryllic paint. I then added that to some Future and mixed that very well. I then apply a coat of Future to the area of the part that will receive the wash so it will flow well and lay flat with a soft brush. I let that dry and then apply the Raw Umber/Future wash to the part and after that has dried I apply some dullcoat. I hope this helps and thanks for looking, Wingman out.This is really turning out nice. I have never tried the future wash technique. What paint do you mix with the future?
Taylor
wingman
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Posted: Thursday, February 05, 2009 - 09:17 AM UTC
Hello. Here's another update. The wings have been attached, the fit at the wingroots is very good. I installed the lights into the leading edge of the wing. The clear parts were dipped in Future and masked with Bare Metal Foil. I'll attach the clear part for the lights before I begin painting, the fit there is good too. I'll attach the tailplanes after painting, again, the fit is great there. I ordered exhaust stacks from Ultracast, I don't feel like hollowing out all those pipes.The model will get a good wipe down with alcohol and air dry before I start painting. Thanks for looking, Wingman out.
Yeti123
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Thursday, February 05, 2009 - 02:24 PM UTC
Thank you for the wash idea and description. I'll give it a try
Taylor
Taylor
wingman
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Posted: Monday, February 09, 2009 - 04:34 PM UTC
Hi. Your welcome Taylor, post your results for us. Here's a quick update. A coat of primer was applied and the panel lines have been preshaded with black before applying the camo colors. The underside of the tailplanes have already been preshaded and painted. The canopy and windscreen have been painted also. Thanks for looking everyone, Wingman out.
Posted: Monday, February 09, 2009 - 09:28 PM UTC
Interesting build, wingman. You are maiking really good progress on it. It remains me I need to find out where I can get a hold of Future.
I have the trainer version of the Do 335 in my stash for the Trainer campaign here at Aeroscale. It is going to be an interesting build of an unusual aircraft.
Looking forward to see more - and steal some of your tricks and tips
I have the trainer version of the Do 335 in my stash for the Trainer campaign here at Aeroscale. It is going to be an interesting build of an unusual aircraft.
Looking forward to see more - and steal some of your tricks and tips
wingman
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 02:33 AM UTC
Thanks Jesper. The kit is going together very well. I can't get over how big it is when someone is standing right next to it for scale effect. To read a good article on Future, go to the "general" forum and check out [The days of Future Past?]. There is an article in there that compares different gloss finishes. It is a very informative article. Thanks for looking, Wingman out.
VonCuda
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Posted: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 - 12:48 PM UTC
Wow you're really zooming along now. Looks like this kit is practically falling together. On a side note, I tried your drybrushing technique on my Fw 190 cockpit with silver paint and even though the pictures don't show it, it really made a big difference.
Hermon
Hermon
Removed by original poster on 02/11/09 - 22:45:52 (GMT).
wingman
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Posted: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 - 10:55 AM UTC
Hello. Glad to hear the drybrushing went well Hermon. Here's another update. The clear parts were painted and dullcoated and the Bare Metal Foil masking was removed. I dipped a MicroBrush into baby oil and used that to remove the residue from the clear parts. Since the canopy is somewhat big and it was going to be posed open, I decided to apply thin strips of decal film cut from a solid sheet from Aeromaster to the interior of the canopy and the windscreen. The ends of the strips were given a very small amount of dullcoat to prevent the ends from curling up. The spinners and props were weathered with pastels and given a shot of dullcoat. Thanks for looking everyone, Wingman out.
chukw1
California, United States
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Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 04:01 AM UTC
Looking great! I really like the inner canopy treatment- I'll file that away, if you don't mind. What an awesome aircraft you chosen to grace these pages with!
chuk
chuk
wingman
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Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 09:30 AM UTC
Hi Chuck, thanks for the kind comment. I just finished painting the tailplanes and the underside of the aircraft. I'll start to mask the underside and apply the light green to the topside on Friday. Thanks for looking, Wingman out.
VonCuda
North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 12:57 PM UTC
Looking good. I like the tip about applying decal paper inside the canopy. I would never have thought of that but it seems to have made quite a difference looking at it here.
Hermon
Hermon
wingman
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Posted: Saturday, February 14, 2009 - 09:48 AM UTC
Hi. Hermon, to me, applying the strips of decal to the interior of the canopy is a lot easier than masking it. I just finished masking the topside and fuselage for the dark green. It amazes me how much time we spend masking these models and then painting them. It takes no time at all to remove the mask. It's kinda like the electronics and guidance systems in smart bombs. A lot of time and money is spent making sure everything is absolutely perfect inside the weapon and then it all goes up in smoke in a split second. I know that 's the way it has to be in order for these things to work, I'm just making a comparison, thanks for looking, Wingman out.
Yeti123
Michigan, United States
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Posted: Sunday, February 15, 2009 - 04:53 PM UTC
Wingman:
another great tip with the baby oil to remove the residue from the meal foil mask. I have used goo be gone, but I have never fully been happy with the result. The progress is looking great
Taylor
another great tip with the baby oil to remove the residue from the meal foil mask. I have used goo be gone, but I have never fully been happy with the result. The progress is looking great
Taylor
wingman
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Posted: Monday, February 16, 2009 - 05:22 AM UTC
Hello. Thanks Taylor. You don't have to use a lot of the baby oil, just a touch. The entire model has been painted and the masking removed. When I removed the paper towels from the wheel wells, that were a bit wet when I put them in, they took some of the paint off with them. I think that happened because I didn't dullcoat the Future that was there and the moisture from the towels weakened the Future. I think I'll leave it like that, it looks pretty cool. The tailplanes were attached, the fit here was outstanding. The preshading doesn't show as well in the photos compared to seeing it for yourself. I touched up some areas in the wheel wells and I have to glue a part of the bomb bay door actuator back on that snapped off when I was removing the masking. The gear doors were given a touch of light brown at the bottoms to simulate some dust accumulation. I might apply some more streaking to the doors. The landing gear were attached to the doors. The engine cowl and the wheels were just tacked on for the photos. Thanks for looking, Wingman out.
Posted: Monday, February 16, 2009 - 09:50 AM UTC
Hi Mike
Fantastic work as usual! The clear parts are really impressive. I've still never tried Bare Metal Foil for masking - looking at your crisp results, I really must give it a go! And using painted decal strips for the inside makes so much sense - for one thing, it avoids the problem of interior colour paint applied on the outside looking glossy through the clear styrene.
Are you planning a vignette for this one, or is it stand-alone? Either way, we should get it on the Frontpage.
All the best
Rowan
Fantastic work as usual! The clear parts are really impressive. I've still never tried Bare Metal Foil for masking - looking at your crisp results, I really must give it a go! And using painted decal strips for the inside makes so much sense - for one thing, it avoids the problem of interior colour paint applied on the outside looking glossy through the clear styrene.
Are you planning a vignette for this one, or is it stand-alone? Either way, we should get it on the Frontpage.
All the best
Rowan
VonCuda
North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 28, 2005
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Posted: Monday, February 16, 2009 - 10:37 AM UTC
I agree, this is front page material for sure. Everything looks great, and the pre-shading really looks well done. One question: Did you go back and lighten some of the panels or is it just a "more paint on the edges, less paint on the center" method? I may be wrong but the subtle blending or fadeing or whatever you may call it on the panels on ALL of your projects are one of the most outstanding things I have seen yet. Well, that and the lifelike finishes on your canopies. I'm still watching.
Hermon
Hermon