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filling gap between canopy and fuselage
dobon68
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: June 19, 2007
KitMaker: 392 posts
AeroScale: 23 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 04:15 AM UTC
At the moment I'm building an old 1/32 Revell AH-1G cobra attack helicopter. The canopy isn't the best fit and there are gaps what would be the best adhesive to fix it in place? I know normal poly glue will mist up the clear plastic so can anyone recommend something that will stick the canopy and fill any gaps? In some places the gap is almost a couple of millimeters.
Cheers
David
Siderius
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: September 20, 2005
KitMaker: 1,747 posts
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 08:03 AM UTC
Hello there. One thing you can try is regular Elmers white glue. Another, which might be a little bit better is a product produced by Micro Sol, called Krystal Clear. It will fill the said gaps and dry clear so as to look like part of the canopy. You should be able to find Krystal Clear in most well stocked hobby shops. Hope this helps. Russell.
dobon68
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: June 19, 2007
KitMaker: 392 posts
AeroScale: 23 posts
Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 08:38 AM UTC
Thanks for the info Russell,
I have ordered some Kristal Clear and will give it a go.
Cheers
David
Emeritus
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Uusimaa, Finland
Joined: March 30, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, February 22, 2009 - 07:11 PM UTC
A couple of millimeters? I wouldn't necessarily go filling such gaps with PVA-type glues. Heavier doses of those tend to bow down as they dry. Larger gaps would likely require multiple applications, and due to their elasticity, they're tricky to sand and shape after drying.

I'd use thin styrene sheet to plug such gaps. When working near clear parts with hobby knives, sandpaper and such, it's good to protect the clear stuff with masking tape in addition to being careful.

Also, for gluing and filling, the clarity of krystal klear isn't necessary IMO (of course, for clear-to-clear joints it really hits the spot). Or are the seams between clear sections of the parts?

Normal styrene cement won't mist parts, at least like superglue, where the fumes can produce white residue. Naturally, the results of getting cement on clear portions messses them up.

dobon68
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: June 19, 2007
KitMaker: 392 posts
AeroScale: 23 posts
Posted: Monday, February 23, 2009 - 10:04 AM UTC
Thanks for the information Eetu,
I've been reading HawkweyeV's posts on filling seams since posting this question and I will try and give it a go, so fingers crossed!
Cheers
David
amegan
#243
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England - North East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 21, 2008
KitMaker: 996 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 09:31 AM UTC
Similar to Kristal Klear is Humbrol ClearFix if it is still available. I have used this on all my recent builds except my last one when I tried something else. Doh! I'm back to ClearFix until the bottle runs dry
JPTRR
Staff MemberManaging Editor
RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: December 21, 2002
KitMaker: 7,772 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - 09:32 AM UTC
Hobby Town carries a brand of superglue ( Ted Smith? ) that has a canopy non-fog superglue. I used it a couple of times and it worked as advertised.
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