Bill C reviews the Eduard Interior PE upgrade set for the BF 110G-4 for the 1/32nd scale Revell of Germany kit.
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REVIEW
BF 110 G-4 P.E Interior setPosted: Friday, June 12, 2009 - 11:38 PM UTC
armouredcharmer
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 670 posts
AeroScale: 175 posts
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 670 posts
AeroScale: 175 posts
Posted: Friday, June 19, 2009 - 08:28 PM UTC
Thanks for posting this but i do have a question,i could`nt afford Dragon`s prices for their new 110`s so i bought both the day and nightfighter versions off E-Bay and want to upgrade their bare innards.
My question is which way can i go without spending a fortune ?.My plan was to buy these sets and sort of pick and mix to get a result - would this work ?
Comments very welcome.
My question is which way can i go without spending a fortune ?.My plan was to buy these sets and sort of pick and mix to get a result - would this work ?
Comments very welcome.
bill_c
Campaigns Administrator
New Jersey, United States
Joined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
AeroScale: 1,198 posts
Joined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
AeroScale: 1,198 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 20, 2009 - 08:26 AM UTC
Hi, Danny, that's a complicated question, but I'll do my best to clarify, since I am currently building both the Dragon 110 C and two kits of the RoG 110 G nightfighter. I can't comment on Revell USA's 110 C as I have never seen it.
The problems that need fixing with the 110 G are as follows:
1.) the cockpit: The kit's cockpit is just a hint of the real thing. Eduard's interior upgrade (reviewed above) is a solution, though you will still have to do some scratchbuilding (opening up the floor for the 20mm cannon "gun tub," for example). It includes seatbelts, but the rear combined seat for the radar operator and rear gunner is wrong. The Eduard version is an oval with a wicker-work cover when in reality it was a two-piece affair with a square front portion covered by interwoven fabric strips and a rear, rectangular piece covered in wicker-work.
2.) the props & spinners: They're both too small. Jerry Rutman has a resin set for fixing them (to read the review click here), but he only accepts checks and is here in the U.S. The email on his site doesn't work, and calling him would be an expensive solution for you.
3.) rear vertical stabilizers: Again, they're too small. The 110 was not very maneuverable, and so the surface of the stabilizers was increased (the correct ones are more square in shape than the C/D version's). Again, Rutman has the only correction I know of.
4.) the wheels: They are too small and should be smooth, not grooved. Rutman again.
5.) the nacelles: The wing nacelles are too skinny on the G kit, but there is no known AM correction for this.
6.) misc. exterior detailing: The Eduard exterior upgrade (to read the review, click here) is superb for helping improve the exterior, including the grating and movable flaps on the wing radiators, the armor plating for the nose section, etc.
7.) Schräge Musik: The twin array of 20mm cannons mounted usually in the rear of the cockpit and firing up at an oblique angle (hence the name: "oblique/jazz music") is not made by any AM manufacturer. I am scratchbuilding them for my 2 planes.
8.) decals: Other than the Peddinghaus set for Schnaufer's last plane (reviewed here), there is nothing in this size. The Montex masks or EagleCal sets are for the C/D variants, which will help you out with that kit, but not with the G variant, which generally has white or gray crosses.
I'm sorry if this makes you want to take the kit and put it up for sale here, but there's nothing that says you have to go to all the trouble I am in trying to perfect it. In terms of cost, I will end up spending more for the upgrades than I did for the Dragon kit which I'm building OOB (except for Eduard seat belts and EagleCals decals, since the Dragon kit lacks both stenciling and swastikas).
The problems that need fixing with the 110 G are as follows:
1.) the cockpit: The kit's cockpit is just a hint of the real thing. Eduard's interior upgrade (reviewed above) is a solution, though you will still have to do some scratchbuilding (opening up the floor for the 20mm cannon "gun tub," for example). It includes seatbelts, but the rear combined seat for the radar operator and rear gunner is wrong. The Eduard version is an oval with a wicker-work cover when in reality it was a two-piece affair with a square front portion covered by interwoven fabric strips and a rear, rectangular piece covered in wicker-work.
2.) the props & spinners: They're both too small. Jerry Rutman has a resin set for fixing them (to read the review click here), but he only accepts checks and is here in the U.S. The email on his site doesn't work, and calling him would be an expensive solution for you.
3.) rear vertical stabilizers: Again, they're too small. The 110 was not very maneuverable, and so the surface of the stabilizers was increased (the correct ones are more square in shape than the C/D version's). Again, Rutman has the only correction I know of.
4.) the wheels: They are too small and should be smooth, not grooved. Rutman again.
5.) the nacelles: The wing nacelles are too skinny on the G kit, but there is no known AM correction for this.
6.) misc. exterior detailing: The Eduard exterior upgrade (to read the review, click here) is superb for helping improve the exterior, including the grating and movable flaps on the wing radiators, the armor plating for the nose section, etc.
7.) Schräge Musik: The twin array of 20mm cannons mounted usually in the rear of the cockpit and firing up at an oblique angle (hence the name: "oblique/jazz music") is not made by any AM manufacturer. I am scratchbuilding them for my 2 planes.
8.) decals: Other than the Peddinghaus set for Schnaufer's last plane (reviewed here), there is nothing in this size. The Montex masks or EagleCal sets are for the C/D variants, which will help you out with that kit, but not with the G variant, which generally has white or gray crosses.
I'm sorry if this makes you want to take the kit and put it up for sale here, but there's nothing that says you have to go to all the trouble I am in trying to perfect it. In terms of cost, I will end up spending more for the upgrades than I did for the Dragon kit which I'm building OOB (except for Eduard seat belts and EagleCals decals, since the Dragon kit lacks both stenciling and swastikas).
armouredcharmer
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 670 posts
AeroScale: 175 posts
Joined: June 09, 2009
KitMaker: 670 posts
AeroScale: 175 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 08:42 AM UTC
Hi Bill,thanks for replying to my question.I`ve now bought the Osprey modelling masterclass book for the 110 and i am going to use it as a guide (even though the kits featured are 1/48th scale).It`s got some great photos so hopefully this will see me right,i`m not too bothered about the engine nacelles and fins but the cockpit just looks like a "tub" so putting a few boxes into this should liven it up.
bill_c
Campaigns Administrator
New Jersey, United States
Joined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
AeroScale: 1,198 posts
Joined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
AeroScale: 1,198 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 24, 2009 - 09:29 AM UTC
Thanks, Danny, and good luck. That's a good book to work from if you can extrapolate the information to 1/32nd scale. Almost anything is better than the kit's cockpit. Let me know if you figure out a fix for the nacelles.