Start Here (for Beginners)
This forum is for younger modelers or people just starting out in the hobby.
This forum is for younger modelers or people just starting out in the hobby.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Metallic finish (seeking recommendations)
Siderius
Tennessee, United States
Joined: September 20, 2005
KitMaker: 1,747 posts
AeroScale: 1,673 posts
Joined: September 20, 2005
KitMaker: 1,747 posts
AeroScale: 1,673 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 14, 2009 - 04:29 PM UTC
Just as a note to all Aeroscale members. My name, Russell is spelled with two ss and two lls. Thanks. Ha ha ha.
JimMrr
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,505 posts
AeroScale: 595 posts
Joined: January 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,505 posts
AeroScale: 595 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 08:56 AM UTC
Sorry Russell..didnt mean to spell your name wrong
Siderius
Tennessee, United States
Joined: September 20, 2005
KitMaker: 1,747 posts
AeroScale: 1,673 posts
Joined: September 20, 2005
KitMaker: 1,747 posts
AeroScale: 1,673 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 15, 2009 - 11:49 AM UTC
It's okay Jim, it isn't you in particular, I have that problem all the time! Ha ha Hope my photos helped you make a decision. Russell
JimMrr
Ontario, Canada
Joined: January 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,505 posts
AeroScale: 595 posts
Joined: January 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,505 posts
AeroScale: 595 posts
Posted: Monday, November 16, 2009 - 01:25 AM UTC
JP, If you are looking for different tones in your aluminum finish( for example,doped wings, or burned metal panels near a jets exhaust)...I use thin coats of Tamiya "smoke" after masking, or even simply flat clearcote.
jaypee
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: February 07, 2008
KitMaker: 1,699 posts
AeroScale: 1,384 posts
Joined: February 07, 2008
KitMaker: 1,699 posts
AeroScale: 1,384 posts
Posted: Monday, November 16, 2009 - 01:44 AM UTC
Thanks Jim.
Yep clear coat and smoke I've got. The sunderland in particular has many shades. I'll use the drybrush technique on
the panels once a solid coat of alu is laid down. it is nice the way the kit is constructed as I can leave the engines and
cowlings off till the end. But this is basically the look I'm after.
Yep clear coat and smoke I've got. The sunderland in particular has many shades. I'll use the drybrush technique on
the panels once a solid coat of alu is laid down. it is nice the way the kit is constructed as I can leave the engines and
cowlings off till the end. But this is basically the look I'm after.
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Monday, November 16, 2009 - 02:10 AM UTC
Hey JP !
I have seen Jims take on using smoke for shading as well as other members on the site and the effect really works well .
Russell , nice builds !
I have seen Jims take on using smoke for shading as well as other members on the site and the effect really works well .
Russell , nice builds !
Siderius
Tennessee, United States
Joined: September 20, 2005
KitMaker: 1,747 posts
AeroScale: 1,673 posts
Joined: September 20, 2005
KitMaker: 1,747 posts
AeroScale: 1,673 posts
Posted: Monday, November 16, 2009 - 08:02 AM UTC
Thank you for the compliment Terri. Hope it helped Jim make a decision about what paint to use. Russell
PorkChopper
Florida, United States
Joined: November 16, 2009
KitMaker: 34 posts
AeroScale: 12 posts
Joined: November 16, 2009
KitMaker: 34 posts
AeroScale: 12 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 04:06 AM UTC
I just wanted to weigh in here...
For a beginner, who wants the easiest route to a good NMF, with the lowest probability of problems, I would recommend the Tamiya lacquer spray cans. They have a good quality spray nozzle and are very easy to use. THere is no need to decant the paint - just "dust" on the paint carefully and build up your finish over multiple coats. The paint dries quickly. Go slow, and spray light. Once you have a nice base of the Tamiya, you can then mask off some panels and spray them with differing shades of Alclad if you choose. The Tamiya produces a very durable base, and will protect the plastic from the Alclad, which is pretty hot.
Go to my blog and find my 1/32 Ki-84. This was my very first attempt at natural metal. I used Tamiya AS-12 spray can, then Alclad for the varying panels.
Be warned - this stuff STINKS, and if you're married, could result in divorce.
For a beginner, who wants the easiest route to a good NMF, with the lowest probability of problems, I would recommend the Tamiya lacquer spray cans. They have a good quality spray nozzle and are very easy to use. THere is no need to decant the paint - just "dust" on the paint carefully and build up your finish over multiple coats. The paint dries quickly. Go slow, and spray light. Once you have a nice base of the Tamiya, you can then mask off some panels and spray them with differing shades of Alclad if you choose. The Tamiya produces a very durable base, and will protect the plastic from the Alclad, which is pretty hot.
Go to my blog and find my 1/32 Ki-84. This was my very first attempt at natural metal. I used Tamiya AS-12 spray can, then Alclad for the varying panels.
Be warned - this stuff STINKS, and if you're married, could result in divorce.
FalkeEins
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: March 07, 2005
KitMaker: 868 posts
AeroScale: 690 posts
Joined: March 07, 2005
KitMaker: 868 posts
AeroScale: 690 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 04:43 AM UTC
..nice blog Bill ! ... and good call on the cans.
I was going to post a similar response, although my 'can' of choice is Halfords 'Aluminium' automotive spray paint...can also be polished to varying degrees of sheen with 'Brasso' metal polish...
jaypee
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: February 07, 2008
KitMaker: 1,699 posts
AeroScale: 1,384 posts
Joined: February 07, 2008
KitMaker: 1,699 posts
AeroScale: 1,384 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 05:49 AM UTC
This is great stuff folks can't thank you all enough. I've also been practicing with BMF on my little shorts Sc.1
although it would work out hideously expensive for the sunderland it will work for isolated panels.
Since the LHS seems to be shut every time I go near it. I'll try halfords this evening.
The Dornier Do-X will get the Halfords treatment. I've a few pots of different metallics in enamel from
warhammer days to try out for masking panels and drybrushing them.
Will post results here as I find them. Keep the suggestions coming I'm sure it is helping more folk than me.
Thanks bill. and yes I can't afford a divorce or paint booth just yet so I'll steer clear of spraying alclad.
although it would work out hideously expensive for the sunderland it will work for isolated panels.
Since the LHS seems to be shut every time I go near it. I'll try halfords this evening.
The Dornier Do-X will get the Halfords treatment. I've a few pots of different metallics in enamel from
warhammer days to try out for masking panels and drybrushing them.
Will post results here as I find them. Keep the suggestions coming I'm sure it is helping more folk than me.
Thanks bill. and yes I can't afford a divorce or paint booth just yet so I'll steer clear of spraying alclad.