I've got two projects coming up. A 1/72 sunderland and a 1/144 Do-X both in all aluminuim finish.

As they are quite large should I simply get automotive spray can in a shade of metallic silver?
Or is this just going to look rubbish. I don't want to foil them. Although I may foil some panels on the sunderland.

Would a bottle of Alcad cover both these?

Looking for ideas.

Thanks folks.

Hi JP

I'd have thought a bottle of Alclad would just about cover both of these, but I'd get two to be on the safe side - and maybe different shades for a panelled look. The stuff has good covering power but there's nothing worse than running out part way through on a big kit.

I know some people get good results with auto sprays, but sadly I'm not among them. My gut feeling is that the paint would be too thick for 1:72 and you'd risk swamping the details.

All the best

Rowan

Great. Littlecars.com has bottles of alclad.

Been reading up and I'm not sure I can use alclad. I don't have a paint booth.
Are the fumes from painting and clean up going to be too much.?

I see Lampies thread say he cleans up with isopropyl. That I can manage but
cellulose thinner are going to stink the house out.

G'day JP,

Just thought I'd throw this one at you. One of our club members has done some great work dry-brushing with Testors Metallizer. Looks easy and the results are really good. I hope this link works . . . . .

http://www.essmc.org.au/Natural_Metal_Finish.html

I will be trying this one on my next NMF bird.

Cheers, D

I think Isopropyl cleans it better than cellulose.

Andy

If you are going to brush or airbrush try the Polly Scale railroad color aluminum, or try the Model Master Acryl aluminum. Both brush and airbrush pretty easy and thin with just a little bit of water. Hope this helps you out some. Russell

Hi JP

I don't have a spray booth either. I try to remember to wear a mask, but often forget - but I always ensure plenty of ventillation when spraying - whether it's with enamels or acrylics...

Alclad does stink. It's one of those instant "you know it's bad for you" smells. But, conversely, it's the solvents you can't really smell much (or don't smell too bad) that give me greater cause for concern - because you're more liable to breathe them in. And how often have the medical experts changed their minds as to what's toxic!?

Basically, always play on the safe side; take precautions when spraying. As a minimum, ensure plenty of ventillation. Better still is good ventillation and a proper painting (not dust) mask. Best of all is a correctly maintained painting booth.

All the best

Rowan

I second Rowan. A good mask with organic vapors filter is invaluable. I use acrylic paints exclusively for their ease of use and because they are "non-toxic". Hopefully this is true, I try and wear my mask when I airbrush but like Rowan forget half the time. Good ventilation is always a plus. Russell

wow that is so crazy it just might work. i'll try it on my short sc1. i've got a humbrol polishable
silver in the paint box to test it out with. kind of makes sense add very little paint and let surface
tension of the suspended particles do the work of self levelling. no fumes is a big bonus for me.

as for non toxic any aerosol is bad. for example asbestos itself isn't toxic but its the fine particles that
cause the damage. reason i don't like stink is i hate the smell of cellulose in my porridge in the morning.

if you are spraying every day get kitted out. if it is only occasional you'll be fine.

Hi JP

One point to consider with your Dornier is that is wasn't all metal - the wings were doped fabric and the finish looks very different to the hull and nacelles in photos.

All the best

Rowan

Thanks for the heads up. The polishable silver enamel from humbrol does work drybrushed on, but it is not the greatest.
I'll order some alclad and see if the same trick works with that otherwise it is spray on.

Is there a different technique for doped alu?

apologies for the extra questions

For doped alum you can use just normal aluminium paint . fabric surfaces won't have the same high finish as a metal panel would . Don't use those buffable ones though .
Tamiya also has a spray for doing alum finishes AS12 . Haven't tried this product yet so can comment on the over all appreance of it when dried . If you are going to use the alclad you must have acrylic black or greys and white of the base coat . It gives something for the paint to bite into and won't rub off by your fingers . No base coat and it's like the Testors range of buffable paints , it will come off onto your hands and spead like weeds . Also with Alclads don't over spray ang lacquer base paints of finishes . It will ruin it big time . ( turns it black and grey ikky poo mess )

For the smell in the house here is an old painters trick , fry up some bacon . Believe it or not this really works ! just make sure you have toast and eggs as well !


Oh yeah ! Hi Jaypee !

hi terri, I'm starving now. I wonder does black pudding work just as good?
Yeah I guess aluminum paint would simulate aluminuim paint pretty darn good. Doh!

Hi JP, I used Tamiya AS12 from the spray-can on the F-84G I recently finished (YAY!), it is easy to use and gives a great low-sheen finish.




Cheers, D

Hi JP

Looking at pics of the Dornier, the obvious thing is that the doped surfaces are a lot brighter and shinier than the metal. I actually started to wonder if the hull was painted light grey, but some shots do seem to indicate n/m - just very dull.

All the best

Rowan

Like this?
The bundesarchiv is turning into a great resource for us.

Note 2 bladed rear props with the curtiss conquerors, four bladed rear with the jupiters only. A coat of flat should help
dull down the hull. I'll need to write all this down on the instructions or I'll forget it.

Is that just right out the can Damian? I think I'll try that too and see what works, as I can pick up the Tamiya can from the LHS.
It is really a railway shop and they have a lot of n gauge stuff. So I might pick up a few figures to show just how big this beast is.

Yes JP, sprayed straight from the can. I haven't got the intestinal fortitude to try decanting and airbrushing just yet, and I'm very happy with the finish from the can.

Cheers, D

please take the advice about a respirator to heart JP ...In early spring I sprayed my Tsurugi with Alclad and didnt wear one ...my lungs hurt for the next 3 weeks ..I was getting worried ... It doesnt pay to fool with laquer paint fumes ..

I agree about the respirator JP, although if you take my advice and use acrylic aluminum colors you will be a lot safer than with Alcad. In my humble opinion that is. All the best. Russell

Hi JP

I just don't think that's a safe way of looking at things. Some of the chemicals are proven carcinogens, so you shouldn't gamble in terms of frequency, but rather assume that any exposure could be the one that does for you...

All the best

Rowan

Russel,how do you like the finish of the model master acryic aluminum?...by this I mean how do you rate it against the Alclad paints in terms of looks?..Im planning to do an aluminum finish on my current project also..

This alclad stuff sounds great for finishes but I don't think I'll go with it, if it gives you sore lungs
I aint spraying that without a proper spray booth considering the only place I have available is
the kitchen table. Sooner I get the garage up the better. A tamiya rattle can will do for now.

As for the health issue I'll think I'll leave those worries to another thread. He says getting
squadron putty all over the keyboard.

THanks for all the advice folks I knew youse would not let me down.

Has anyone here tried the technique in the article? Sounds really intriguing for us without airbrushes. I've copied and pasted this into a word document. Not sure when I'll get to try it but I have a couple of projects that would lend themselves nicely to this technique.

Hi Jim. Russell here, I like the looks of the model master Acryl fine. I'll include a couple of photos of models which were painted with them. Take a look and see what you think.

I had no problem with the finish on any of the models using the Model Master Acryl except the flying wing. I was using too much pressure and/or was too far away and got some grit on the model. I fine sanded the aircraft down and repainted it. That solved that. Hope this helps some. Try the Acryl out I think it stacks up well against say Polly Scale aluminum in the railroad colors. Russell