World War II: USA
Aircraft of the United States in WWII.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
1:48 Cessna UC-78 Czech Model
Roxter
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Posted: Monday, January 18, 2010 - 11:56 PM UTC
Really interesting in-progress pics!

Jean-Luc, have you widen up the fuselage after knowing that the canopy is little bit too big?
TedMamere
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Posted: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 07:18 AM UTC
Hi all,

Thanks for the kind words...


Quoted Text

Jean-Luc, have you widen up the fuselage after knowing that the canopy is little bit too big?



Yes, that's right.

I have followed Rowan's advice and toned down the fabric effect on the tailplane and the wings with steel wool (grade 0000). This stuff is very effective for such work...







Jean-Luc
Merlin
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Posted: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 11:41 PM UTC
Hi Jean-Luc

The fabric surfaces look a thousand times better now! Well worth the effort!

All the best

Rowan
TedMamere
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Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 10:20 AM UTC
Hi Rowan,


Quoted Text

The fabric surfaces look a thousand times better now! Well worth the effort!



I first wanted to leave the fabric as it was but you have convinced me...

I have made a new pair of tyres for the aircraft since "Uncle Tom's cabin" had spoked wheels which are not provided in the kit. To do them I've use the front wheel of a He 219 and the main wheels of a P-39 which were glued together and sanded to shape with the help of some filler...





That's all for today... I am busy reviewing the new Eduard Fw 190D-9...

Jean-Luc
TedMamere
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Posted: Sunday, January 24, 2010 - 01:19 AM UTC
Hi all,

Not much progress done over the week-end (family duties) but I have nevertheless managed to glue the wings on the fuselage.

I have first applied some plastic cement on the wing root and let it dry for a couple of minutes. Once the cement had finished to "eat" the plastic I applied a second coat, then the parts where mated together and held in place with some tape to force them to the right dihedral...



The wing root joint is very good on the upper side...



... but not so good on the underside.



The gaps are a result of the dihedral. If I had butt joined the parts (it woulds have been possible) the wings would have been almost flat. Judging from photos, this is something that obviously wasn't the case on the real aircraft.

Jean-Luc
TedMamere
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Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 06:57 AM UTC
Hi all,

Another small update...

I have almost sanded the model ready for painting. Based on photographs, I have added some panel lines on the underside which were missing on the kit (red lines). The panel lines highlighted in green are the original ones which I had to engrave anew after the steel wool session...



I hope to get the model ready for airbrushing this week-end...

Jean-Luc
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Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 10:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The panel lines highlighted in green are the original ones which I had to engrave anew after the steel wool session...



Hi Jean-Luc

It's going to be great! To be honest, looking back at the earlier photos, I don't think the panel lines suffered too much from the steel wool, so I hold myself entirely blamless - I reckon you'd have sharpened them up anyway.

All the best

Rowan
TedMamere
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Posted: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 - 09:39 PM UTC
Hi Rowan,


Quoted Text

To be honest, looking back at the earlier photos, I don't think the panel lines suffered too much from the steel wool, so I hold myself entirely blamless - I reckon you'd have sharpened them up anyway.



Believe me, they suffered! And you are the one to blame!

Jean-Luc
TedMamere
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Posted: Friday, January 29, 2010 - 07:31 AM UTC
Hi all,

A small step for me but a giant leap towards the end of the build... the canopy is glued to the fuselage!



Some filling and sanding was necessary to blend both clear parts together. The interior of the windscreen was painted as well and then the transparent canopy sub assembly was glued on the fuselage with plastic cement. The seams were filled with white glue and then painted in black to avoid the light to show through.

I still have to add some putty to blend everything together and after that it will be painting time at last!

Jean-Luc
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TedMamere
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Posted: Sunday, January 31, 2010 - 01:04 AM UTC
Hi all,

I have applied a first coat of Tamiya XF-16 Silver on the model to check the surface finish. I found some flaws here and there but nothing too dramatic. Later, I will use the Tamiya paints for the doped aluminium surfaces but not for the metallic ones (engine nacelles and some smaller panels)...



Jean-Luc
TedMamere
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 07:04 AM UTC
Hi all,

After some more sanding sessions I have finally applied the overal doped aluminium paint...





It doesn't look bad isn't it?

Jean-Luc
ludwig113
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 07:17 AM UTC
looks nice cant wait to see more.
Merlin
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 11:24 AM UTC
Hi Jean-Luc

It looks great, but you've sort of missed a stage; when you use the Tamiya acrylic to highlight any problems, what do you do when you find them? Sand the whole area down or remove the immediate paint with thinners? Whichever, the result looks nice and smooth.

I hardly dare ask it, but should there be a fabric effect on the underside of the fuselage? (I don't know the answer.)

Are you going to pose the door open to show off the interior?

All the best

Rowan
AussieReg
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Posted: Monday, February 01, 2010 - 11:39 AM UTC
Beautiful finish J-L, the extra work on the seams with such a wide body really pays off.

Cheers, D
TedMamere
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Posted: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 08:54 AM UTC
Hi all,

Thank you for your kind words...


Quoted Text

when you use the Tamiya acrylic to highlight any problems, what do you do when you find them? Sand the whole area down or remove the immediate paint with thinners?



When I find a bad spot, I scratch the paint away and apply one more coat of filler and once it is dry I sand the surface smooth.


Quoted Text

I hardly dare ask it, but should there be a fabric effect on the underside of the fuselage?



I hope so!

Today I did my own decals for the build. I used a Carpena transparent decal sheet on which I have printed the artwork and numbers with my laser printer. To protect the toner I have brush painted two coats of Microscale Liquid decal Film over the sheet...



The engine nacelles and the fuselage nose were masked for another shade of aluminium paint...




Quoted Text

Are you going to pose the door open to show off the interior?



Yes of course. I have only used the grey plastic door to protect the interior while applying the silver paint. A second door made of clear plastic is provided in the kit and I will use it later...



The black anti glare panels have been brush painted with Prince August acrylics. The risk of lifting off the fresh silver paint was to high so I have opted for this solution.

Tomorrow we will see if the decals are working...

Jean-Luc
md72
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Posted: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 09:12 AM UTC
Looks great!

Have a question or 3:

Quoted Text

When I find a bad spot, I scratch the paint away and apply one more coat of filler and once it is dry I sand the surface smooth.



Just scrape, fill and sand? The silver paint doesn't gum up the works? And the scraping doesn't create new countours?
TedMamere
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Posted: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 10:08 AM UTC
Hi Mark,


Quoted Text

Just scrape, fill and sand? The silver paint doesn't gum up the works? And the scraping doesn't create new countours?



Well, obviously not. I scrape the paint so the Tamiya filler adheres to the plastic (it does not adhere on the paint). Once dry I sand with 400 grid paper and then with 800, 1000 and finally with steel whool. Tamiya's XF-16 isn't very good for bare metal finishes but for doped aluminium it works very well and is nice to sand smooth when thoroughly dry.

Rowan here's a picture I've used as reference for the build. The bottom of the fuselage looks rather flat...



Jean-Luc
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Posted: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 10:17 AM UTC
Hi Jean-Luc

No - there's clearly a central longeron...

All the best

Rowan
md72
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Posted: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 10:21 AM UTC
Thanks! I need to try this.

I've been using a silver Testor's paint pen to check my sanding. Sanding it off gumms up the sandpaper so, I've been using solvent to clean it off because sometimes I can't tell if I missed a spot or if it's old paint under a new layer of CA.
Merlin
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Posted: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 10:40 AM UTC
Hi again Jean-Luc

Before you apply those decals, looking at your reference photo I think "Uncle Tom's Cabin" was painted in red:



All the best

Rowan
TedMamere
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Posted: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 06:11 PM UTC
Hi Rowan,

You have decided to worry me! The decals are already on the model and I chose black. The picture has a red hue to it and what seems like dark red could be a consequence of this. But of course I'm not sure at all, I'm not very good at this game. I also chose black because I don't have a color printer...

The longeron on the underside is visible but I may have sanded it away a little. while eliminating the seam...



Jean-Luc
TedMamere
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Posted: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 05:22 AM UTC
Hi all,

A small update.

I have worked on the engines today. The most painful task of this project was to glue the small PE parts to the cylinders. There are 42 in total and there are no spares on the fret!



Once painted, the radial engine looks very nice from the box...



I have started to ameliorate the cabin door. In reality, it is thicker than the parts provided by Czech Model. I first wanted to add some plasticard but I remembered that there was the plastic version so I test fitted it to the clear part. Bingo! It worked as if they were designed to go together! I have added the engraved details and a surrounding made of stretched sprue. It looks more like the real thing now...



Jean-Luc
Merlin
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Posted: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 10:24 PM UTC
Hi Jean-Luc

As you say - nice engines as provided (and very nicely built and painted!)

Looking at your shot of the model's underside, the rear fuselage doesn't look as flat (featurelss) as in some earlier views, so I think it does capture the sense of some structure under fabric skin.

See - I always say you build too quickly! LOL! You got the decals on a day earlier than you seemed to suggest you would! I do think that writing was red, though. Although the reference photo has a warm overall tint, the anti-glare panels do seem different (the contrast is also distinct if you colour-correct the photo in Photoshop). But the fact that you've reproduced the handwritten text so well is impressive in itself!

All the best

Rowan
TedMamere
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Posted: Thursday, February 04, 2010 - 05:40 AM UTC
Hi Rowan and all...

I haven't managed to finish the build before Nürnberg so I will put it on hold for a couple of days.

Here is how the model looks like today. I have added the cowlings and applied the decals. I'm not sure at all about the serial number. It is given as 232072 but I have read elsewhere that it is the serial of a B-17!?



I have to do the panel lines, the aerial wire, finish the door, place the landing and navigation lights, glue the exhausts in place and apply some (light) weathering. Below is a comparison shot with the original picture. The model is not exactly the same as the real aircraft but close enough for me...




Next update after the Toy Fair...

Jean-Luc