Thanks Terri! Regarding the white metal struts, my answer is that I am not sure...

Indeed this is a question that I have for the whole model given that the wings are resin and may sag over time as well, just to complicate things. I am not so sure how to prevent this, but I am thinking that I may need to make the rigging structural (i.e. not use my usual elastic, maybe nylon invisible fishing line) to keep the wings from sagging. This would rely on the central A-Frame being very strong as it would need to form the basis from which the rigging could effectively "hold the wings up" and at the right level with the fuselage.

Anyone who has built all resin models have any tips for me here??

BC

Hi Brad , yes over time the resin it self might sag . The A frame cab struts just might hold up to the test of time . I do like your idea of using invisible thread for the rigging . It will make a strong union between the two forces . Another option would be replace the cab struts with contrial brass struts as well with the inter struts . You can use bamboo ( chop sticks ) easier to shape and place pins in . And is very strong . Like in the Bluemax kit's I build the sopwith camel and oeffeg albbie and I really wish I used something other the then the plastic strut and white metal for they are starting to sage and lose their shape .


The only resin kit's I have built are WW 2 subjects . But the princples are bascial the same . Pin the wings , tail and any struts . Over all though the weekest part would be the landing gear for this is where all the weight will rest on .

Hi Brad

Wonderful work as usual! Let's get this on the Frontpage when it's finished.

As regards resin kits' wings sagging over time (it's particularly a problem in very hot weather or if you have the heating turned up too high (in extreme cases, I've even known solid fuselages distort!)), I've usually resorted to making a cradle to support the model. It doesn't look very great, but if the model's not on display, that's no problem - and it keeps it safe for when you do want to exhibit it.

All the best

Rowan

Greetings good Rowan and Terri,
In most cases you would be right. The great thing about the Jager kit wings is that they were done by Copper State Models. Eric Hight of CSM forms his resins without formaldehyde and it cures closer to 97% as compared to others that only cure to 91 - 93% (or less). One way to tell is if there is an oily sheen on the unpainted surfaces. Often that is why resin manufacturers made parts thicker than scale. Tom's Modelworks resin kits were like this. CSM is always within good scale thickness and very seldom curls or twists. I have a box of his seconds (18 sets of wings)that he sold me years ago. 10 different kits involved and none of the wings have sag or twists.

Thanks for the tips folks!

Stephen - the wings I have are not of a waxy appearance, they are a very matt, almost slightly grainy more yellow resin (you can see the differences in the pics in the above posts) - is this the bad saggy kind of wings or the good ones??

BC

Damn! I wish I could paint the way you do Brad... Just the right balance between contrast and subtlety.

Makes me want to get out and clean the shed so that I can start building again!

Cheers,

Hugh

Here is some fun - I have been playing with options for the struts. For the moment my experiments have focussed around the kit's white metal landing gear, which will have to bear the weight of this very heavy model. After comparing to the drawings, the kit's undercarriage is too short - it lines up with the Datafile in plan view but does not account for the splay in the struts (much in the same way that Eduards Albatros D.V struts are too short). So, I have tried my first experiment with Strutz aerofoil shaped brass, and bent up some new undercarriage legs - these should be much much stronger. Still have not figured out a nice way to cut it but I am making do... I sill need to add details to the undercarriage legs, but here she is sitting (dry fitted) to her new legs, plus some other bits and pieces dry fitted to give an idea of what she will look like built up (sorry for the poor lighting)...



I am still thinking about whether to replace the A-Frame and the interplane struts - I think the white metal structurally will be ok, but I am concerned that I may need to make the rigging structural due to the resin wings...

BC

I operated an obscure resin model kit manufacturing business back in the early 1990s. At its height, my catalog offered 2 complete kits, 3 conversion kits, and some detail sets, all to 1/72, all WWII or postwar subjects). Based on that experience, I may be able to add some insight here.

One effective way to create thin section resin castings that are resistant to warping is to cast and cure them under heat and pressure. Using that technique, I was able to cast fuselage halves of approximately 10 inches in length and as thin as 1/32 of an inch with no warpage at all, even in unassembled pieces 15+ years later.

Oily or waxy surfaces on castings could be mold release residue. "Weeping" or "oozing" castings are usually the result of improperly portioned or poorly mixed resin. A strong odor can also be a clue that the resin was poorly mixed and/or improperly portioned.

An overall matte or rough surface on resin castings indicates that the molds are beginning to deteriorate. Assuming the pattern that was used to make the mold was smooth and glossy, castings stripped from new molds will be smooth and glossy. Over time, a mold will produce castings that are less smooth and glossy as they begin to wear out. As the mold deterioration gets worse, castings will be increasingly difficult to strip from the molds as the surfaces get rougher, and finally, chunks of the mold will adhere to the casting--at that point the mold is completely useless. An conscientious caster will notice when the castings start getting matte--a signal that the mold will need replacing soon.

Please note, I don't mean to imply at all that Jaeger or Copper State was anything less than conscientious--deciding when (or even if) to replace a mold is a subjective decision that can be influenced by many factors. I've never heard anything negative said about Jaeger or Copper State, so I must assume that they always exercised the proper discretion when it came to deciding when to replace their molds.

Hi Karl - thanks for the explanation, I have learned something I was thinking that the matt texture may given something away about the strength. I believe that Copper State did the wings for Jager so I have some faith that they should be good.

Another minor update - finished adjusting and detailing the main landing gear this lazy Sunday afternoon. Bungee chords are from elastic, other details from foil and plastic - the brake is supplied in the kit. I glued some small wire pins on the end of the struts - I am a little worried about the strength of the attachments as I could not drill into the ends of the brass. I think I might look into investing in a soldering iron if I am going to keep using brass..... but at least these struts won't sag like the white metal ones likely would.



BC

Great thread as usual everyone. Brad, Model On!

Control surfaces, save the rudder, are all glued on now. Some more minor details were added to the exterior from etch from the spares box, as well as from some sheet plastic and wire. I also made some cut outs in the lower wing for the aileron control horn that extends from the lower aileron leading edge. The tail skid is brass tubing. I still need to make up some bomb racks but these will come after painting.






The upper wing joint also needed some filling and careful bending - the actual wings were two piece affairs with the dihedral starting from the centre - the Jager wings are three pieces, which leaves a flat section in the middle. Hopefully the interplane struts will help get the right look. The rib tapes also needed replacing on the centre section due to the sanding (the wing outer sections are thinner than the centre section - fun) - I used Mr Surfacer almost sanded flat to replicate the tapes - it is a bit rough, so I will look to make the rib tapes look more even through careful painting in the painting stages. I also rescribed and re-built the radiator as the detail was a little soft here.



The white metal centre section A-Frame has also been built up and a sprue block added to the top to secure a positive join between the A-Frame and the slot in the wing centre section. It should be fairly strong.



I am getting closer and closer to the painting stage.... now to choose a scheme...

BC

Excellent attention to the details Brad , your project is coming along very nicely

Thanks Karl for sharing your knowledge as well . I learn't some things about resin .

Moving right along Brad. Looking forward to the painting stage now.

Slow progress of late...

I have now scratch built a bomb rack based on the photos of a Linke-Hoffman built machine in the datafile.



The kit propeller blades are designed to butt up against the spinner - this doesn't look realistic so I fixed the prop blades to a spare I had in the spares box. The relative angles on each prop blade are quite significant from what I can see in the datafile.



Other than that, I have been finishing clean up and priming in prep for the colour coats, which I will hopefully start in the next few days.



BC

Very, very nice Brad – I'm following following this thread with great interest!

Mikael

Finally got some paint on her. This one is in the markings of C.X.9244/16 of Bayerische Flieger Abteilung 46, and was one of the few documented C.X's to carry unit markings. At some point this aircraft was fitted with a long focal-length camera behind the observer, but I figure it would have been fitted in service so the scheme is plausible on this model. The wing camouflage patterns are speculative - the datafile says that the standard wing colour patterns could not be determined with any accuracy, so I went with something that looked mildly plausible.




And here she is balanced on her legs.




Next up is the fun part - upper wing attachment...!

BC

Excellent finish with the painting and weathering Brad ! Always like your wood grain it has just the right feel to it . It's perfect

Seen lot's of excellent wood grainning , but with the grain showing it just doesn't look right . In scale apperance you wouldn't be able to see the grainning . The surface would have diffenent tones showing in slight varitions and you have master this !

Looking forward to the top wing being mounted and the rigging .

In 1:48 or 1:32 your work is consistantly impressive.

Hi Brad – really, really nice. I agree with Terri, your woodgrain tecnique is a masterpiece – it looks just right, and in scale! Good luck with the upperwing.

Very Impressed Regards

Mikael

This is really shaping up nicely Brad: I too have to concur with the others regarding your wood grain, it has the effect of grain and looks like varnished plywood. Very nice.

Works of Art by Brad Cancian.

Thanks for the kind words folks - the remainder of construction has gone quite smoothly. My careful preparation of the A-Frame helped to keep the struts aligned. The rigging is my usual elastic and turnbuckles. I also pieced together a parabellum machine gun and mount for the observer using scrap plastic and some bits from the Tom's Modelworks etched German guns set. I also added a flare rack and annometer which are visible in the photos of this aircraft. So... after all that, she is now done and I can breathe a sigh of relief!














All said and done, this Jager kit was actually very good for a limited run resin kit. It is indeed quite a shame that production had to stop. There is allot of detail and extras included (including crew figures), and the parts fit together reasonably well. Sure there was some work required to tidy things up, but no more than say a Blue Max or early Eduard kit (indeed there was probably less work as I did not have thick plastic wings to thin down and straighten out). These kits are now collector's items in their own rights (and indeed I will be holding on to the other CX kit I have in the stash), but like any kit, they were meant to be built, and the build itself was very enjoyable. If you have one of these kits in the stash, I would say be brave and build it!

Thanks to all for the kind comments through the build - as always, comments and feedback / critiques are always welcome.

BC

Congratulations on finishing a most excellent build – I really like the looks of this one.

Best Regards

Mikael

There are only 3 days past and you finished the whole rigging!!!

Congratulations, I think that the whole build is just excellent


Cheers Nick

Outstanding work Brad, my hat is off to you.