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Which Iwata to buy??
lcarroll
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 26, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 - 10:52 AM UTC
I am considering purchase of a new airbrush and by all reports and Reviews Iwata is the way to go. My question is which model is optimum? I work in 1/32nd and hope to have the capability to work the full spectrun from preshading, panel highlighting, to full coverage and over-spray finishing with one brush.
The HP-C model looks to be the best combo and middle of the scale price to me; any recommendations, advice, and experience would be most welcome.
Merlin
Staff MemberSenior Editor
AEROSCALE
#017
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United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 - 11:21 AM UTC
Hi Lance

Well, in my opinion, you can't go far wrong with an Iwata - whichever model you chose. I've had an HP-BS for a few years and it's never let me down, but I've switched to a TR-0 Reviewed here because I find the trigger action so good.

Deciding which to go for is totally subjective - so my best advice is try out the different styles if you can before you buy and see what suits you best.

All the best

Rowan
OEFFAG_153
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Västra Götaland, Sweden
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Posted: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 - 08:39 PM UTC
Hi Lance,

I 've never used an Iwata, so can't really comment on it – but from Merlins review it looks pretty sweet. Personally I'm using a Harder Stenbeck Evolution – Infinity, and its never let me down once.

Here's a review from Aeroscale in case you want to compare it with the Iwata Infinity

Its pretty pricy thogh – but you get two needles (0,4 and 0,15) with tips in the package...

Hope I don't confuse matters for you – but I find its always nice to do a comparison between brands before you spend.

Best Regards

Mikael
lcarroll
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 26, 2010
KitMaker: 1,032 posts
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Posted: Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 03:08 AM UTC
Rowan,
I've checked out the review; Thanks for the recommendation. Lots of food for thought............."decisions-decisions!"

Cheers,
Lance
lcarroll
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 26, 2010
KitMaker: 1,032 posts
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Posted: Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 03:17 AM UTC
Mikael,
Thank you for the reply. I have studied the Review and it gives a great perspective. My Nephew recommended I check out Harder Stenbeck before I invest in a new brush (he being young and ün-attached eventually settled on the top of the line Iwata product) and there are several Canadian sources should I eventually choose that route. I'll let you know how this latest quest progresses; it's a big priced item and I will be taking some time before making the final choice.

Cheers,
Lance
Quoted Text

Hi Lance,

I 've never used an Iwata, so can't really comment on it – but from Merlins review it looks pretty sweet. Personally I'm using a Harder Stenbeck Evolution – Infinity, and its never let me down once.

Here's a review from Aeroscale in case you want to compare it with the Iwata Infinity

Its pretty pricy thogh – but you get two needles (0,4 and 0,15) with tips in the package...

Hope I don't confuse matters for you – but I find its always nice to do a comparison between brands before you spend.

Best Regards

Mikael

vanize
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Texas, United States
Joined: January 30, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 05:59 AM UTC
i have 2 iwatas, and what I have found is that any needle/nozzle size smaller than about 0.3 to 0.35mm is extremely frustrating to work with when using hobby paints. the smaller needle/nozzle combinations are really made for very fine pigment paints not found in the realm of the scale model hobby.

For most applications, I use my 0.5mm Iwata and love it. Iwata's all stainless steel design is really nice.

another plus is that parts are widely available (at least in north america), unlike many other brands of airbrush.

as for what sort of paint supply to use (gravity feed, bottle/cup feed, etc), that is just personal preference.
lcarroll
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 26, 2010
KitMaker: 1,032 posts
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Posted: Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 08:50 AM UTC
Vance,
Your experience with nozzle size solves one of my "grey areas" and narrows down the options significantly. I hadn't thought of the difference in pigment composition between various types of paints; saves me finding out the hard way!
Thanks for the advice and sharing your experience.

Cheers,
Lance


Quoted Text

i have 2 iwatas, and what I have found is that any needle/nozzle size smaller than about 0.3 to 0.35mm is extremely frustrating to work with when using hobby paints. the smaller needle/nozzle combinations are really made for very fine pigment paints not found in the realm of the scale model hobby.

For most applications, I use my 0.5mm Iwata and love it. Iwata's all stainless steel design is really nice.

another plus is that parts are widely available (at least in north america), unlike many other brands of airbrush.

as for what sort of paint supply to use (gravity feed, bottle/cup feed, etc), that is just personal preference.

Keeperofsouls2099
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Florida, United States
Joined: January 14, 2009
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Posted: Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 02:28 PM UTC
I use the HP-CR for everything wouldn't trade it for the world
efrick
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: December 15, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, December 02, 2010 - 04:02 PM UTC
Hi Lance,

I am very fond of my Eclipse HP-CS. I use it for everything from broad coverage to fine lines and mottling.

I also agree with Vance: their seems to be little point in using anything smaller than the 0.5mm tip.

Regards,

Ed
Torchy
#047
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England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, December 03, 2010 - 01:21 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I use the HP-CR for everything wouldn't trade it for the world



same here,love mine the best I've ever used (and I have used a few)
HTH
Andy
lcarroll
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 26, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 03:18 AM UTC
Guys,
Thanks for the inputs. looks like the common thread (there are so many different Iwata Models to choose from) are the "C" Versions, both the newer lines and OOP brushes still available out there.
I took the plunge and ordered the HP-CH Highline Series yesterday; (0.3 mm nozzle with the MAC Valve) on the theory that should the broad coverage requirements not work out I can use the old Paasche or Aztec for that in a pinch. The Highline version is admittedly pricey and perhaps overkill however the various reviews and your responses made going upper end logical in the long run.
Hopefully I'l get to play with the beast over the Holidays and should there be any results that may help others I'll put together a mini review to share the experience.
As an aside, definitely for fellow Canadian shoppers, some on-line shopping comparisons saved me 20% in the end. I'll be glad to provide recommendations on the best prices available by PM if anyone can benefit.
Again, Thanks All for sharing your experience and advice; this is one great Site with access to a wealth of info and truly great folks.

Cheers,
Lance


Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I use the HP-CR for everything wouldn't trade it for the world



same here,love mine the best I've ever used (and I have used a few)
HTH
Andy

JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
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Posted: Saturday, December 04, 2010 - 09:40 AM UTC
As odd man out I am a fan of the Badger Patriot airbrush.
matrixone
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Oregon, United States
Joined: February 07, 2004
KitMaker: 869 posts
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Posted: Sunday, December 05, 2010 - 10:11 AM UTC
Iwata airbrushes are very good, I own four of them and also have a couple Badgers and one Paasche.
Out of my four Iwata's the airbrush that is the most useful for painting models is the Revolution BR, the Iwata Revolution BR is considered to be an entry level airbrush which may turn off some people who want an advanced airbrush but after using mine a few times I found it can do everything the higher priced Iwata's can do. I paint a lot of Luftwaffe camo schemes in scales from 1/144 to 1/32 and the Revolution BR does this perfectly with no trouble at all and the best part is this airbrush is the cheapest in my collection. Had I known the Revolution BR was this good I would not have bought my other airbrushes.
There is no need to lay out a lot of cash for an expensive airbrush to get good results painting scale models unless you have extra money to throw away.

Matrixone
Removed by original poster on 12/07/10 - 03:06:02 (GMT).
lcarroll
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 26, 2010
KitMaker: 1,032 posts
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Posted: Monday, December 06, 2010 - 03:05 PM UTC
Whoops, sorry folks!
Hit the wrong key and sent an "empty" reply.

Les,
Great feed back and perspective as has been the all the previous. The "C' version I've ordered has the same nozzle (0.3 mm) as the BR you mention; should do all the same or possibly more as I hopefully master the increased flexibility / control offered by the MAC feature. I'll admit the price is much higher and may, like you, wonder why I didn't just go with the Revolution or Eclipse Lines. I'm fortunate (being old?!?) to be able to convince myself that one can't put a price on happiness/perfection thus elected to take the plunge on the higher Line. I'll certainly let you know how it worked out and Thanks for your sharing of your experience.
Good grief; you've got 4 Iwatas!! (from your Gallery pics you use them very well!

Cheers,
Lance

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Iwata airbrushes are very good, I own four of them and also have a couple Badgers and one Paasche.
Out of my four Iwata's the airbrush that is the most useful for painting models is the Revolution BR, the Iwata Revolution BR is considered to be an entry level airbrush which may turn off some people who want an advanced airbrush but after using mine a few times I found it can do everything the higher priced Iwata's can do. I paint a lot of Luftwaffe camo schemes in scales from 1/144 to 1/32 and the Revolution BR does this perfectly with no trouble at all and the best part is this airbrush is the cheapest in my collection. Had I known the Revolution BR was this good I would not have bought my other airbrushes.
There is no need to lay out a lot of cash for an expensive airbrush to get good results painting scale models unless you have extra money to throw away.

Matrixone


matrixone
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Oregon, United States
Joined: February 07, 2004
KitMaker: 869 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, December 07, 2010 - 11:28 AM UTC
Lance,
I had owned my Iwata Revolution BR before I bought my other Iwata airbrushes and never used it very much but one day when I did use it to base coat a model I had some extra paint leftover and did some practice painting on a piece of paper, I tried to see how fine a line this cheap Iwata could spray and I was very surprised that I could do fine lines with it every bit as good as my other airbrushes. Next time I needed to paint a model I decided to use the Revolution BR for painting the whole thing and it worked great for spraying not only the large areas but also the finest details and have been using it ever since.

You made a good choice for your airbrush, I am sure you will have success with it. One reason I like the Revolution BR is the smaller paint cup which allows me to see the area I am painting better. I am not sure if your HP-CH has the smaller color cup on it or not but thats not all that important anyway.
When trying to paint fine lines or mottles thin your paint a little more than usual and lower your air pressure slightly. If your fine lines or mottles look a little grainy your paint might be slightly too thick. It takes a few tries to get the paint thinner ratio right but its easy to learn. Also I have had better results with all my airbrushes by mixing my paints in a seperate container and pouring the mixed paint into the color cup rather than mix the paint in the airbrush color cup itself.

Below are my current projects that were painted with the Revolution BR.



Matrixone

lcarroll
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 26, 2010
KitMaker: 1,032 posts
AeroScale: 1,025 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 09, 2010 - 05:34 AM UTC
Les,
Certainly can't argue with the results you're getting with the BR!
My HP CH Plus is on the way from the supplier, got confirmation and a Purolator Tracking # this morning. Funny you mention the size of the color cup; that is the one feature that I wish were different. It has a rather large one (compared to all the others in their line up) however it shouldn't be a big thing as you mentioned as well. The "B" versions have a very small cup by comparison and I found that appealling and did a lot of soul searching before going the route I chose.
As an aside, I used the old Aztec yesterday for some broad coverage (interior fuselage - cockpit area, to apply the base coat for "wood graining" on a 1/32 Albatros DIII.) It was a graphic reminder of why I am up-grading to a better Airbrush.......achieved good results but a lot of paint wasted getting it "tuned up" and a lot of fussing around with thinner ratios etc. My Paasche VL is 20+ years old and without investing in new parts it's definitely time expired.

I am new to this site and as mentioned before returning to the hobby after a long break with only a few brief periods of activity in too long a time. I'm hoping to get the photo thing solved soon and will post a few once I get organised and have something to show.
Really appreciate your responses.lots to learn!

Thanks
Lance


Quoted Text

Lance,
I had owned my Iwata Revolution BR before I bought my other Iwata airbrushes and never used it very much but one day when I did use it to base coat a model I had some extra paint leftover and did some practice painting on a piece of paper, I tried to see how fine a line this cheap Iwata could spray and I was very surprised that I could do fine lines with it every bit as good as my other airbrushes. Next time I needed to paint a model I decided to use the Revolution BR for painting the whole thing and it worked great for spraying not only the large areas but also the finest details and have been using it ever since.

You made a good choice for your airbrush, I am sure you will have success with it. One reason I like the Revolution BR is the smaller paint cup which allows me to see the area I am painting better. I am not sure if your HP-CH has the smaller color cup on it or not but thats not all that important anyway.
When trying to paint fine lines or mottles thin your paint a little more than usual and lower your air pressure slightly. If your fine lines or mottles look a little grainy your paint might be slightly too thick. It takes a few tries to get the paint thinner ratio right but its easy to learn. Also I have had better results with all my airbrushes by mixing my paints in a seperate container and pouring the mixed paint into the color cup rather than mix the paint in the airbrush color cup itself.

Below are my current projects that were painted with the Revolution BR.



Matrixone


matrixone
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Oregon, United States
Joined: February 07, 2004
KitMaker: 869 posts
AeroScale: 862 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 09, 2010 - 06:15 AM UTC
Lance,
I mentioned the color cup size because for painting small details its really important to see clearly where your paint is going on the surface.
One thing I forgot to bring up when spraying extra fine detail work is to remove the front part of the airbrush protective cap, it will allow you to get the airbrush really close to the surface without the air bouncing off the surface and disrupting the paint. You must be VERY careful after you remove the protective cap because the needle tip will be exposed and could be damaged if you should drop the airbrush or touch the models surface by mistake. For most painting jobs there is no need at all to remove the cap, all my Iwata's spray fine either way.
Another thing that I do to keep my airbrushes performing at top levels is to smear a small amount of prepared beeswax on the threads of the spray nozzle after cleaning the airbrush parts before putting it back together, the wax ensures there are no air leaks and the airbrush works good as new. Also, use the supplied Superlube that comes with the airbrush, it works really good for keeping all the parts of the airbrush working smoothly, the Superlube will not effect the paints at all....other kinds of lube might effect your paint and also might damage your airbrush.

Matrixone
lcarroll
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 26, 2010
KitMaker: 1,032 posts
AeroScale: 1,025 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 11, 2010 - 08:17 AM UTC
Les,
Thanks, all good ideas I'll use. I didnt see any reference to the Superlube when I ordered, hopefully it's included. I did order a 32 oz. bottle of their Cleaner. Will let you know how this all works out.
Cheers,
Lance


Quoted Text

Lance,
I mentioned the color cup size because for painting small details its really important to see clearly where your paint is going on the surface.
One thing I forgot to bring up when spraying extra fine detail work is to remove the front part of the airbrush protective cap, it will allow you to get the airbrush really close to the surface without the air bouncing off the surface and disrupting the paint. You must be VERY careful after you remove the protective cap because the needle tip will be exposed and could be damaged if you should drop the airbrush or touch the models surface by mistake. For most painting jobs there is no need at all to remove the cap, all my Iwata's spray fine either way.
Another thing that I do to keep my airbrushes performing at top levels is to smear a small amount of prepared beeswax on the threads of the spray nozzle after cleaning the airbrush parts before putting it back together, the wax ensures there are no air leaks and the airbrush works good as new. Also, use the supplied Superlube that comes with the airbrush, it works really good for keeping all the parts of the airbrush working smoothly, the Superlube will not effect the paints at all....other kinds of lube might effect your paint and also might damage your airbrush.

Matrixone

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