This update regards a part of the build that I always somewhat dread: seatbelt installation.

First, I installed the top shoulder belt buckles (or so I thought anyway) using the little retainers I made in the last post . . .




However, if you look closely, you'll see that I installed the wrong buckles.
Fortunately, I was able to pop the bottom of the belt retainers loose to change out the parts.

I really like the look of the Eduard prepainted belts (if not the "microsurgery" required to assemble them . . .



I added some "chipping" to the seat (and cockpit floor) before installation, then installed the belts (this time with the correct buckles at the top) . . .



Sometimes when you're bending these Eduard precolored belts into place, the printed coating will tend to chip, but this set thankfully went on with very little touchup required . . .



The belts will need to be "dirtied up" a bit, and they and the chipping will need to be toned down just a tad with filters. I think that after that, they'll look pretty good.

Regards;

Automaton

I notice the wooden handled "Beading Tool" in your pics. Where do you purchase these from. I've noticed several modelers mentioning them, but can't seem to find them in the local arts & crafts stores.

Bill, I got mine from UMM USA. You can check it here. It is really a useful tool...

All the best!

Hi Bill

I actually have a couple of beading tool sets (each with one handle and assorted interchangeable bits). I'm not sure, but I believe I procured both of mine on ebay.

I believe they're the best way to replicate flush rivet detail on models, but it's a labor-intensive, patience-testing method (and lots of eyestrain).

By the way, my Ta-152 build (along with all my other model projects) has been languishing untouched for months. It's been a very busy year for me, and I just kinda got discouraged with struggling to find a few minutes here and a few seconds there to get some modeling done. My work situation is still busy (actually getting more intense of late), but with cold weather on the way, I'm hoping to get things back underway.

Good luck with your rivetting;

Automaton

Hello Automaton
Please, please where are you?
Thx,

You're not the first to experience this, and I am beginning to think glossing under decals has got to be the worst crock in modelling history...

I use Solvaset OVER/UNDER decals, this straight over matte paint (but Micro Sol for thinner decals, like Eagle Cals or Eduard), and I have never experienced anything even close to silvering under any circumstance, including stencils: I actually prefer to put them directly over matte paint as opposed to anything glossy, as they seem to "melt" better into the more porous paint, which sort of "sags" to take them "in" into one level outside surface...

The only drawback (fairly serious) is the lack of "slidability" by the not-so-slippery underlying solvent, and the danger of the decal deforming and "stretching" before you have it right, as there is very little time to finalize the placement. This is serious enough that I like to buy two of every decal sheet...

I like the fact that the decal is so melted into the paint that the film utterly disapears, and after they are dry you really have to strip the paint to remove them...

Gaston

I have enjoyed the build. As for making rivets an easy way to do that is with a punch press, inset appropriate size drill bit into chuck upside down. Pointy bit in chuck. Then punch away into preferred medium. For-sale signs work best for me.