I chose the kit that looked the easiest for this GB Eduards 1/48 Fokker EV. This will be OOB and with your help I can learn the sequence of construction, painting, and that BAD THING call rigging. The photos were taken with minimal lighting so hopefully they are legible.

My entry if it is accepted to this campaign:


If you can make out the landing struts are broken, so that is the first thing on my agenda.


A question: why are their two wings to choose from, I cannot see the difference after much inspection for shape, panel, aileron, tip, length or any other difference. Call me dumb but I cannot see any.


Bob

Welcome Bob to the group and the build.

A nice choice to start, minimal rigging always helps

I think there two wings because I read (likely in Stephen's review on shows the panels stressed. I believe this had a plywood skinned wing as opposed to linen.

A shame about the landing strut though.

Keith

There use to be a difference. One had a cupped effect on the surface representing the area between the ribs and spars. The original wing is 2 -3mm plywood. Check past threads on the subject and its usually mentioned. Anyway People at Eduard thought modelers were whining too much about the subtle differences and decised to resurface the 2nd wing and made them both the same.

Click here.



Here is a real bit of fun. Look closely . The "cupping" between the ribs and spars in the top surface of the wing does seem to be apparant. From the photo of the real machine it looks like Eduard got it very close in their most recent issue of this kit. This is a Fokker E.V post war in Belgian hands.

@ Keith: thanks for the wing explanation, it helped.

@ Stephen: the photos and reviews were more than I expected, thanks for the help.

Now I see the wings with a different view.

Bob

Here is a bit of fun on the subject. The first 15-20 Fokker E.V suffered from improper wing construction as moisture was present in the internal areas that degraded the glue used. After several front line deaths caused by wing failure the whole series was grounded and an inspection of these components was made ny Idflieg (inspectorate board of flying services). When it was discovered that the problem lay in the factory construction (webs and gussets were mislocated) and the method of storage, changes were ordered and the new wing tested and passed inspections the type was redesignated Fokker D.VIII. None of these aircraft were ever recorded to have lost their wings in either war or post war years, The USA purchased two Fok. D.VIII and tested them at McCook field with good results 1919-1921.

Stephen,
Great photo and information on the EV/DVIII. I have accomplished my first step for the Eduard kit by giving it a good wash and have read up on several articles of wood grain techniques. I chose Terri's to start with after my own experiments did not go over too well

I finally had some time to work on my EV after giving up on trying to similate wood grain for now.

The landing struts after some Tamiya Thin Glue, hopefully they will be strong enough after a day of drying.


The radial was much easier to work with than that wood grain. Insequence: 2&3 bare plastic parts, 4&5 Tamiya X-11 aplied, 6 mixed X-11 and XF7 to make brass color applied to intake, 7 radial glued together and given a black oil wash.







Now to tackle that wood grain again.
Bob

Hi Bob

Nice to here that Matt gaved you that extra push to try out a WW1 subject . Excellent choice for your first build .

Off to a nice start with the engine and your repair job on the landing strut should be okay once it has fully dried . If it does break again , drill a small hole in both parts and add a brass or steel pin and then reglue .

I have been reading Terri's "Wood Grain for Dummies" and after some practice I was able to do a litttle to the fuselage. I know that more practice will be needed to accomplish a more realistic finish, but Hey you gotta start some where.

In sequence:

1. OCHRE BROWN


2. NEW BROWN thinned and washed over the previous color.


3. XF9 applied to formers/framing.


4. After a coat of future, Tamiya tape applied over the wood.


5. Masking tape applied to joining edges to keep excess paint off.


6. XF55 a/b on for CDL.


7. Hopefully something that looks like wood.


Question, CDL has a sheen to it yes? So should I apply a little future to the CDL to give it the sheen?

Bob

The interior would be reversed lozenge.

click here.

So the camo that I will be applying would have been painted over the lozenge? Was the linen impregnated with or was the lozenge woven into the frabic?




Bob

Printed on the fabric at the factory level on rollers. See here:
Lozenge Camouflage 101 here.

Using decals:
Lozenge Camouflage 201 here.