Finished..
So I have the SPAD to finish off and the Tripehound to continue, but I just have to start the WNW Roland...
Hope you enjoyed.
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
KotS GB 2011 Pfalz D.IIIa warreni
warreni
South Australia, Australia
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
AeroScale: 2,201 posts
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
AeroScale: 2,201 posts
Posted: Friday, July 15, 2011 - 07:24 PM UTC
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 16, 2011 - 01:57 AM UTC
Beautiful job done Warren
gajouette
Texas, United States
Joined: February 01, 2007
KitMaker: 365 posts
AeroScale: 356 posts
Joined: February 01, 2007
KitMaker: 365 posts
AeroScale: 356 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 16, 2011 - 07:48 AM UTC
Warren,
Well done my friend.Outstanding paint scheme too.
Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Well done my friend.Outstanding paint scheme too.
Regards,
Gregory Jouette
warreni
South Australia, Australia
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
AeroScale: 2,201 posts
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
AeroScale: 2,201 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 16, 2011 - 08:57 AM UTC
Thank you Terri and Gregory.
After the SPAD disaster WNW kits are a breeze, even with complicated schemes like these turning out to be fairly simple due to good engineering. Although the fuselage decals for the stripes and comets were a tad testy too get in place for some reason...
After the SPAD disaster WNW kits are a breeze, even with complicated schemes like these turning out to be fairly simple due to good engineering. Although the fuselage decals for the stripes and comets were a tad testy too get in place for some reason...
lcarroll
Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 26, 2010
KitMaker: 1,032 posts
AeroScale: 1,025 posts
Joined: July 26, 2010
KitMaker: 1,032 posts
AeroScale: 1,025 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 16, 2011 - 12:17 PM UTC
Warren,
Beautiful clean build..............and one of my favorite schemes. The close up of the prop with it's woodgrain really caught my eye. How did you do it; oils, acrylics, or pigments?? I'm still experimenting with acrylics and thinking of doing a (pardon the pun) "dry' run with pigments, all advice welcomed.
Cheers,
Lance
Beautiful clean build..............and one of my favorite schemes. The close up of the prop with it's woodgrain really caught my eye. How did you do it; oils, acrylics, or pigments?? I'm still experimenting with acrylics and thinking of doing a (pardon the pun) "dry' run with pigments, all advice welcomed.
Cheers,
Lance
warreni
South Australia, Australia
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
AeroScale: 2,201 posts
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
AeroScale: 2,201 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 16, 2011 - 02:06 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Warren,
Beautiful clean build..............and one of my favorite schemes. The close up of the prop with it's woodgrain really caught my eye. How did you do it; oils, acrylics, or pigments?? I'm still experimenting with acrylics and thinking of doing a (pardon the pun) "dry' run with pigments, all advice welcomed.
Cheers,
Lance
Hi there Lance.
Thanks for the praise.
I use nothing but acrylics for my woodgrain effects. First I spray the base colour which varies according to the colour of the wood you are trying to simulate. But for the nice honey coloured wood on that prop I started with Tamiya XF-59. After it is totally dry I get el cheapo vinyl paint I got at the $2 shop, Burnt Umber in this case, and I mix it with just a tiny amount of water. Then using a stiff brush with only a little paint on it I lightly run it in the direction I want the grain to go. As a bit of a differentiator you can run your finger along it as well to smudge the lines a bit.
After that dries, almost immediately, you then spray it with Tamiya CLear Orange, X-26 I think, and keep coating it until you get the colour you want. You can also use Clear Yellow and even just plain Clear depending on the colour you want.
I sometimes do the graining with MIG Pigments as well. That comes out really well as well. That is what I did 'Stropp's' fuselage with. I did an article on the Pigment method a while ago and it is on this site somewhere..
Hope that helps.
lcarroll
Alberta, Canada
Joined: July 26, 2010
KitMaker: 1,032 posts
AeroScale: 1,025 posts
Joined: July 26, 2010
KitMaker: 1,032 posts
AeroScale: 1,025 posts
Posted: Monday, July 18, 2011 - 04:25 AM UTC
Thanks Warren,
I'm using the same approach on acrylics as you outlined however I use an enamel base coat (Humbrol Oak) I was a little worried that acrylic over acrylic would dissolve the base coat, especially if removing the grain streaking to try a second or third time but apparently not so I may just give it a try.
I go back to your article on wood graining with pigments often and will be doing some test runs prior to the next build; really like the subtlety of the results.
Cheers,
Lance
I'm using the same approach on acrylics as you outlined however I use an enamel base coat (Humbrol Oak) I was a little worried that acrylic over acrylic would dissolve the base coat, especially if removing the grain streaking to try a second or third time but apparently not so I may just give it a try.
I go back to your article on wood graining with pigments often and will be doing some test runs prior to the next build; really like the subtlety of the results.
Cheers,
Lance
warreni
South Australia, Australia
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
AeroScale: 2,201 posts
Joined: August 14, 2007
KitMaker: 5,926 posts
AeroScale: 2,201 posts
Posted: Monday, July 18, 2011 - 06:22 PM UTC
Hi Lance.
The MIG pigments have no effect on the acrylic paint, and the vinyl paint from the el cheapo shop is a water based paint that is used by children from an early age at school. I remember using the exact same brand paint at school, but only in Red, blue and yellow. You had to mix paints to get any other colour. Good way to show you that any colour can be made by the three primaries. You could soak a piece painted in Tamiya or Gunze acrylics in it and I don't think it would have any effect on it at all.
The MIG pigments have no effect on the acrylic paint, and the vinyl paint from the el cheapo shop is a water based paint that is used by children from an early age at school. I remember using the exact same brand paint at school, but only in Red, blue and yellow. You had to mix paints to get any other colour. Good way to show you that any colour can be made by the three primaries. You could soak a piece painted in Tamiya or Gunze acrylics in it and I don't think it would have any effect on it at all.
vulkanizer
Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: December 26, 2009
KitMaker: 144 posts
AeroScale: 109 posts
Joined: December 26, 2009
KitMaker: 144 posts
AeroScale: 109 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 09:15 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Finished..
So I have the SPAD to finish off and the Tripehound to continue, but I just have to start the WNW Roland...
Hope you enjoyed.
slow down man, some of you work faster than I can read.
Let me enjoy this beautiful Pfalz awhile
And do not to mention WNW Roland, this is my dream too, but waiting in line