Brave man! I know how fragile things can get as you cut and whittle at the plastic- and you are taking this to the extreme, my friend! It's simply wonderful- I salute you skill and determination!

Cheers-
chuk

... a word from the teacher! Thank's a lot!! I am looking forward to your progress with Ju-388. It's an amazing build!

All the best!

From the beginning it was clear to me that this is going to be a challenging build... after a long day at work, I managed to move a step forward and scratch the wing compression strut from styrene. In reality, this part was from duraluminum and ensured reinforcement of the wing. This will be visible through the open fuel reservoir compartments... I had slight mishap during the build, but I managed to fix it. So here it is:



Those of you who already built this model will notice many surgeries of the kit of which I haven't spoken much.... but it will reveal itself to a careful observer. What will remain from the AM kit here, anyway? Now this is starting to look like an airplane. OH, did I lose the kit's tail... I wonder what the future might bring Sorry for the bad quality of the photos... it's about 2 in the morning! Tomorrow I will proceed with the internal wing structure, but I am also considering change to subassemblies in order to keep my sanity



Cheers!

What I really needed is a change of pace... so I decided to work something totally different. I will reconstruct the whole tubular frame structure. For this job I employed my "Xerox-jig", which is basically the scaled down copy of the internal tubular frame which I used as a blueprint.



First two or three bits need to be secured against the background, and then it gets much easier as you go further... for this work I always use the Filla-Glu, which is one of the best CA's that I stumbled upon + toothpick.

It is not the cleanest possible job I ever did, but in the end I can live with the result:



I worked slowly and section by section, because it would be a bad idea to join everything at this moment. Mrs. Panda is satisfied, and tomorrow we go for another hiking experience!!

So long, my friends!

Truly astounding workmanship! Your work on the Yak is a joy to behold.

Cheers,
Eric

Thank you, Eric! I never thought it would take me this far... but now I just cannot help it! However, I just returned from nice hiking experience with three of my best friends... It was truly amazing! For the first time in my life I spotted a bear eating berries some 50m away... We went to this beautiful hideout in the wilderness:



I think the postman would probably have problems delivering my orders here. However, I just returned from the mountain, and after some time with my wife and kid, I managed to keep Mrs. Panda busy.



She is keen to get this project done in time... But when you enter this level of detail, most people will say that you are crazy. And they're probably right... I managed to add some details to the rear section of the tubular framework. I focused on the rear gear and its retracting mechanism. The kit's part was cut and the tire is gone (for awhile), and I will keep adding some bolts and nuts. The idea is to leave the rear section open for inspection, so almost everything (including the tiniest parts) will be visible. The structure is very fragile, and I have to work patiently and slowly. I hope to finish the rear section by Tuesday evening.

Just two more photos to give you an idea about the size of the details:





Mrs. Panda is a very demanding person, so it will be difficult to keep her satisfied.

Hi... I didn't have much time to work today. Most of the time was spent on bits and pieces and very small sub-assemblies. However, I worked on the stabilizer and I slightly modified the elevator slots according to the measurements found on the Russian site. The kit parts are a bit different, and to be honest - I don't know why I decided to stay with the Russian source... you just assume that it might be correct.



I just temporarily secured the stabilizer and I will be adding bits and pieces tomorrow. You may notice that the rear gear is missing... Well, what to say? I just wasn't satisfied with the details. Don't worry... I am already working on a replacement piece. Comments welcome.... and now off to sleep!!

PS. (A moment of morning sobriety:) I double-checked the measurements against scale drawings of different Yak-1b variants. It seems that my elevator slots are a bit oversized, so adjustment is necessary. This will be fixed later.

I was hardly able to get my thoughts together last night. Just a bit of modeling... The things are getting more complicated. If you ever wondered how a 0,20mm hole looks like, there it is... I made two antennae connectors on the tip of vertical stabilizer, and aluminium rudder pedal connectors. The stabilizer and rudder are slightly modified and some details are scratched from styrene. I hope to finish the rear part today, but I have to reconstruct the horizontal stabilizer with elevator slots. This was wrong in previous build, and now I struggle with multiple sanding and reconstruction procedures. I will start combining and installing some sub-assemblies as I am approaching the point of getting the airframe together. More photos will come... So long, my friends!

I made some progress last night. First I decided to remove all details from the wheel bays of the AM kit and reconstruct it from styrene, thus adding more accuracy and life to this project. Modeling is not always about plastic or resin kits… sometimes there are jobs that call for highly specialized or custom made tools. Over the years, your creative thinking and ability to design and make your own tools radically improve, as you may witness yourself. This time I needed a sanding sponge that can easily adapt to minuscule curved patterns of the wheel bay, but retain its sanding qualities as much as possible. What I had in store were bits and pieces of soft spongy material from my child’s playing mat (those big puzzle blocks of numbers and letters). It is a really handy and cheap material for custom made sanding blocks in particular, but they also find themselves in a variety of different modeling tasks (only sky is the limit).



First I select or cut the spongy thingy in desired shape. I usually combine grits according to task or desired effect. For this purpose I combined medium to coarse, and fine grits (400 to 800). When you have your shape cut, apply CA glue on the top surface and glue it to a sanding paper. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side. To create fine sanding rim (2), precut a strip of finer grit of appropriate size and glue it to the outer rim of the sponge. Make sure to leave appropriate “lip” where the joint will be additionally secured with CA to resist vibration and tearing (zoomed detail). After you glued everything, finely trim the edges with fine scissors (I usually do that at an angle to obtain smooth sanding edges). And here is your new custom made tool for fine sanding jobs. Once I had my tools ready, I removed all molded details from the wheel bays, applied a fine coat of superfine Milliput, and after it dried overnight, I gave it smooth sand with my newly created tool. It worked just fine.



Apart from playing with the tools, I had to move forward with my build. This weekend I will be finishing the wing and getting it ready for the installment of the fuselage frame. But in order to do this, I had to reconstruct the cockpit floor and details between the two wing struts (longerons). Since the cockpit floor will be visible from all sides, attention to detail is a must. However, I am not sure if I executed it the right way, but this is my first attempt at scratching and super detailing. The Yak’s “office” was rather packed with wires and instruments, plus different tanks and reservoirs (oxygen bottle, inert gases for fuel system piping, etc). Earlier in this build I made things even more complicated by cutting out and revealing the wing fuel tanks. Thus the parts of the airplane control mechanism (aileron control rod connected to the pilot stick) will be visible both in the cockpit and inside the wing structure. The cockpit floor and sides were reconstructed from evergreen plastic sheets of various thicknesses, and the fuselage frame connector covers (those yellowish-aluminum shade parts) are embossed led tape from a vine bottle cap. A coat of Mr. Surfacer and a primer should cover minor imperfections.
Today I will continue to add more details to the pilot’s office (tanks and reservoirs, handling stick and pedals, and so on). The plan is to finish this as soon as possible, and then proceed with wheel bay and flaps boxes detailing. Thus I will have at least one part of the aircraft finished by Sunday…

PS. Mrs. Panda hates prolonged deadlines.

This build was brought to a standstill after a series of grave mistakes caused by ambition that was not grounded in actual skills and abilities. However, this project has taught me that almost anything is possible with some luck and determination. Most of the mistakes resulted from my impatience and hurry, and now I offer this log to you as a kind of negative case-study. So, if you are looking for an illustration of the things that you shouldn’t do with your builds, then proceed...

Everything started with my desire to modify the kit’s wheel tubs. I wanted to add more detail and life, so I removed all engraved plastic details. To make the long story short, it didn’t turn out very nice and clean. It was not appealing at all, and I was totally disappointed with the final result. So I started to experiment. Inserting styrene sheet, sanding, milliput… sanding, chiseling… and back and forth. After third unsuccessful attempt at reconstruction, I almost trashed the kit. However, I was determined to keep the promise to my son, so I took a day of the bench. The wing section was completely ruined, so I will show you the photos of the parts before and after a number of surgeries. Some elements of this build went remarkably good, and I was more than satisfied… Now I needed a solution for the wrecked central wing section. I promised to myself that I will finish this kit, and finished it will be!!!







The solution demanded radical moves. Now this build qualifies for a kitbashing as well, because the answer came from an old and wrecked Eduard’s Yak-3 kit. Fortunately enough, I found the Yak’s wings untouched in the scrap box. The idea was to make clean wheel hubs from Eduard’s kit and install it in the AM wing. This procedure involved lot of sanding and cutting, since I couldn’t fit the Eduard’s part into the wing. So a lot of the original wing is cut in order to receive new wheel hubs. The mess will be repaired using the Aves Apoxie, which is a two-part epoxy of extraordinary characteristics. So now I have the hubs inserted… afterwards I will reconstruct the wings and lost details.





The other part of this build is fuselage framework with cockpit, and rear part with rudder, horizontal and vertical stabilizers… this came together quite well, and the fit is perfect. The whole central part is almost done, but I had to rebuild the engine bearer, which is now more correct and sturdier. I also worked on many small details which will be added to the engine compartment and cockpit. I will post just some photos to give you an idea of this epic build (at least for me). I am sure you will understand my frustration… I didn’t explain much. The photos will speak for themselves. So long, friends!

Today I spent a day with my ill son and away from the bench. However, tonight when he was off to sleep, I had to convince myself that I am actually able to build something. Now when everything is drying, and especially the wings, I played with details... This time it was UB Berezin 12,7 mm machine gun that used to be installed above the port side engine block. With more than 30 small bits and pieces - from hypodermic needle to resin and plastic bits - this miniature is a kit in itself. It is quite convincing to me... I feel my energy is returning!!! Mrs. Panda is waiting...

The things have started to develop... I am almost finished with the wing restoration. Of course, it still isn't perfect, but I will solve the minor issues during the assembly. This was the first time I used the Apoxie paste, and it is really interesting material. It has a longer curing time (24 hrs), but it can be progressively smoothed to a satin finish with water. It blends in perfectly, and is very nice to sand... however, I noticed some air bubbles, but it is probably due to my mixing rather then the paste itself. Next time I will leave it to set for awhile before I apply it to plastic. The wheel tubs are now securely in place... well, I had to sacrifice some accuracy for the purpose of finishing this project. So this is the wing now:



some details will have to be restored latter, but the overall impression is OK. I also test fitted the wing with the fuselage, and I will post some photos just to give you an idea of how tricky this build is... and also fragile. Of course, this is only for illustration, and I will tackle the poor fit latter. The fuselage will be kept in place thanks to the fuselage framework, and the marriage between the two will be tricky as well But, as Chuck said, when you hit the plastic, it hits you back.... I am sure more difficulties will come... However, I keep faith alive!

Well Entoni, You took this to a new level. This is a show. And Im glad I can watch.

Nasebi, thank you for your kind words! This is all new to me as well... Hope I will persevere till the end.

The things are progressing here... I can feel the frustration accumulating, but after I managed to destroy the wing, there was no time to waste... So this is the great comeback! The central cockpit section between the wing longerons is restored, and even with more detail than before.



Few details (like oxygen bottle and rudder pedals) are still missing, but I will add them soon. I also worked on the fuselage rear interior. Because the starboard side will be open, almost everything will be open to an observer. There is still much work there, but this is quite satisfactory:



Do I have to mention that almost everything is scratched? The only parts that I used from a PE fret is that rudder pedal housing and the part of the AM kit's control stick. I am also gathering the bits together, and will soon start painting and installing the sub-assemblies. The following photos are just for illustration. Try to imagine everything packed with engine and fuselage framework with complete control mechanism and cables... Don't call me nuts, please!





The fit is not perfect yet, but I am workin' on it!

So long, friends!

Long ago when rec.models.scale was an active newsgroup, we had the "Jennings Crazy Award" which was given by popular acclaim to modellers whose projects went beyond the bounds of sanity to discover entire new vistas of modelling excellence. I would say that you easily qualify.
Please make a feature to show off your model once it's finished!

Jessica, thank you so much for your words... Someone will have to help me with the feature, when this project is done (if ever!)... I really enjoy building, but the painting is pain in the... And I will probably spoil it. But I must give it a try!!! This is a wonderful experience for me!

Features are easy. Take a bunch of pictures (which you already have) and send them in to the editors at [email protected] along with some text (which you already have) that describes what you did.

Click on the "Features" tab, then look at the top right-hand side of the page where it says "Submissions". This will take you to the features submissions page which gives you the instructions. The editors will make it all look good

Just a quick adage.. The cockpit is primed and the base color is applied. It really brought up the details nicely... it is clean and crisp. Painting the details will require special attention. I used Vallejo primer and custom mix of Jens Pop's JPS Color range, which I will use in this build. It was applied with my trusty Harder&Steenbeck Infinity airbrush (to which I am not perfectly accustomed yet). I hope the lucky star will be with me during the finishing stages of this project.



Thank you all for your comments and support!

PS. I know that painting the VVS aircraft is a special science... The lighting of the photo does not catch the hue correctly. However, discoloration due to wear of this particular aircraft makes any discussion on the exact interior color pointless and superficial.

I must rest... The starboard cockpit frame holds the dashboard and controls. Well, I can't detail everything, so I used the wonderful Part's PE set for intricate details. The instrument panel is only primed and dry-fitted to the cockpit floor to show the details. Now this becomes really difficult to handle. The level of detail is such that only slight mismatch of the parts (I am speaking of zero-point-something mm) creates lots of problems in joining the parts. I haven't tried to install everything (I am to scared to to this!), but everything is well calculated in advance. I am just not sure that the execution was always correct... However, wiring it up will pose serious challenge. Of course, more than 25 small assemblies and parts are waiting to get into the cockpit... Mrs. Panda is getting nervous, too. Now it is almost clear that I won't be able to finish this by next Saturday, but I am still giving my best...

Klimov VK-105PF was a 1,260 horsepower (940 kW) 1942 modification of VK-105 engine with significantly increased power output at the expense of decreased high-altitude performance. In order to build this small replica, I had to start from beautiful Karaya’s resin Hispano-Suiza 12Y, which corresponds in basic outline and shape with the Klimov engine. However, I had to significantly modify almost every detail in order to get as close as possible to visual resemblance of the Klimov engine. The only thing I didn’t scratch is the small PE cannon release handle (at the rear tip of the engine). Everything else was scratched from various bits and pieces, including the piping and other cables. This was really demanding job, and I just couldn’t reproduce every single detail. I am especially proud of the 20 mm cannon between the engine blocks. However, first coat of primer did reveal some mistakes and CA blobs and goo’s, which I will have to correct. But it will receive few more coats of base colour and will be weathered to look nice and grimy. With all the smaller things installed (filters, reservoirs, piping and the UBS 12,7 mm gun) it will turn out into a beautiful princess. Now I can start to install the components to the wings and fuselage beginning with the engine and engine bearer, than the cockpit, radio set with water cooler, and control mechanism, hopefully ending with horizontal and vertical stabilizer and rear wings. That’s all for now...

working slowly, but steadily... As I mentioned before, I will start installing previously built sub-assemblies and various gadgets and details. It all starts with the engine compartment. So, before I am able to install it, I must install everything underneath the engine. Today I also repaired some minor mistakes with Mr.Surfacer 1000, which sealed the surface quite nicely, but at the expense of some detail. There is not much I can do in this respect at the moment, but I don't think it will diminish the overall impression. So here is the engine bearer with some elements installed (oil tank and cooler) - which where scratched, of course. The only thing I used from the original kit is a cutout of the front oil cooler face. Those familiar with the kit will easily recognize it. With only limited piping and cables installed, this already looks quite a busy scene. Believe me, this space is tiny, tiny... Now I must find a way to "squeeze" the engine inside (plus many more details). Once the engine is installed, I will move a step forward --- and into the cockpit!



PS. This is only a base coat of color.. I didn't paint the details yet. Only yesterday I found some detailed instructions for interior components paint from a 1943 Russian field maintenance guide

Having in mind the complexity of this build, a 0.15 mm misalignment of the engine is still within my tolerance range. With engine slightly leaning towards the port side of the aircraft perimeter (which you probably won’t notice in the photo’s, unless you are a goof like myself), I am happy to move a step forward with this project. To be honest, the engine installment was far easier than I expected it to be. However, it was not without a problem. At one point the engine bearer snapped under pressure, and I needed a quick repair. My decision to install the oil tank and cooler w/piping before I install the engine proved correct. There was no other way to squeeze it into a tiny engine compartment set.

Personally, I think the engine is a real beauty, and especially that cannon protruding into the cockpit area. It might look that the colors are a bit aggressive, and I did exaggerated it with two or three coats of filter and pro-modeler washes, but rare photos of the actual aircraft in Yugoslav service by the end of WWII, with all maintenance problems and mishaps, support my claim that these birds of prey were quite worn out. Well, I must confront the critics, but the underlining statement is that – believe it or not – this is my first serious project, and it will probably be the only one finished. So, I am still learning the secrets of this hobby… As I said in one of my previous posts, I really enjoy the building, but I am still unsecure in using the airbrush and handling that 10/0 red sable brushes. So have that in mind and be gentle with comments…

As you will notice in the following photos, there are many improvements and additions both to the engine and the wings. One of the important corrections is the air intake at the port root of the wing. The AM kit has it wrong, i.e. round and not so prominently protruding to the front. I myself didn’t succeed quite well in my own representation (more oval and slightly bulged to the front), but it is still better than the actual AM’s representation. Also I filled the landing light opening in the port wing, because the photos of the Yugoslav aircraft doesn’t support it (I also learned from the Russian modeling sites that Yak-1b’s didn’t have them, but I cannot verify that).

Nevertheless, I am a bit unhappy because I will let my son down, and it is now obvious that I won’t be able to finish this project by this Saturday, when show in Zagreb is taking place. However, there is a kit exhibition in Prague on 1st of October, and maybe I could win over my lady for and interesting family trip the only problem is financing it.

Now I will take a rest before I move into the cockpit, and if you feel like posting some comments, please do… help me improve the weathering, for instance. I have very nice AK-interactive weathering set for tracks and engines, but I never used it before. The instruction comes with it, and I saw it many times in forums, but I never applied any myself. Since it is enamel set with two pigments (rust and metallic), my concern is a possible reaction with acrylics that I used so far in this project. Should I seal it with something before I apply the washes and the pigments? Should I stick to a simple oil and turpentine wash instead? So, the photos:

Amazing. The engine/cannon combination is absolutely fantastic!

I don't think that your colour choices are too intense. Remember that once you close the model up there will be shadows, so the intense colours will help to draw the viewer's eyes to the detail. Remember that we make representations rather than 100% faithful replicas (no matter how hard we try to be accurate, even the materials we use betreay us) so a little artistic license is not only expected, but essential to the finished product.