The familiar "birdcage" canopy from the early part of the Second World War has often caused frustration. Here's a simple method to make your models look sharp using decal trim film.
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How to: Decal Canopy FramesJessie_C
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,965 posts
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Joined: September 03, 2009
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Posted: Friday, December 14, 2012 - 02:30 PM UTC
Posted: Friday, December 14, 2012 - 11:09 PM UTC
Great tutorial Jessica, and a really neat technique. I will definitely be trying this one out in the near future.
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, D
Thanks for sharing.
Cheers, D
David_StoryModels
England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: January 11, 2012
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Joined: January 11, 2012
KitMaker: 113 posts
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Posted: Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 11:21 AM UTC
good tutorial Jessica
I'm very tempted to try it
I'm very tempted to try it
lancnut
Canada
Joined: October 05, 2010
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Joined: October 05, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 02:14 PM UTC
Hi Jessica
I've tried this in past,but couldn't stop the paint from flaking off the decal when I cut it. Do you use acrylic as I tried or enamels? Thanks,
I've tried this in past,but couldn't stop the paint from flaking off the decal when I cut it. Do you use acrylic as I tried or enamels? Thanks,
Jessie_C
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,965 posts
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Joined: September 03, 2009
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Posted: Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 04:36 PM UTC
I used enamels for this demonstration, and quite hot water when soaking them. I do agree that the paint may flake, especially when it's bent sharply. It's been my experience that the thicker the paint, the more likely it is to flake.
melkavitch
New Hampshire, United States
Joined: December 14, 2012
KitMaker: 48 posts
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Joined: December 14, 2012
KitMaker: 48 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 01:31 PM UTC
Do you coat the canopy with Future at any time?
Jessie_C
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
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Joined: September 03, 2009
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Posted: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 03:30 PM UTC
Generally after the decals have dried and any necessary tweaking has been done I'll seal it all down with Future. Once that's dry the frames may or may not get a brushing with clear flat.
Posted: Sunday, January 20, 2013 - 09:51 AM UTC
I've done this using spare decals from kits and a single brush coat Tamiya acrylic without problems, most recently on my Arado Ar196 for Ancient Airfix campaign. Masks are better if available, this is my preferred alternative.
North4003
England - West Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: August 01, 2012
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Joined: August 01, 2012
KitMaker: 960 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 07:37 AM UTC
Excellent tutorial. Window frames have been one of my hang ups.
Posted: Tuesday, June 25, 2013 - 07:58 AM UTC
golfermd
Maryland, United States
Joined: March 01, 2013
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Joined: March 01, 2013
KitMaker: 152 posts
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Posted: Friday, June 28, 2013 - 04:22 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Once that's dry the frames may or may not get a brushing with clear flat.
Jessica, what's your source of clear flat?
Jessie_C
British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,965 posts
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Joined: September 03, 2009
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Posted: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 - 08:15 AM UTC
I use Humbrol mostly, but any brushable clear flat coat will work.
golfermd
Maryland, United States
Joined: March 01, 2013
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Joined: March 01, 2013
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Posted: Wednesday, July 03, 2013 - 05:52 AM UTC
Thanks...
Joel_W
Associate Editor
New York, United States
Joined: December 04, 2010
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Joined: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Sunday, July 21, 2013 - 12:14 AM UTC
Many years ago I used this very technique for 1/72 scale aircraft. Simple and effective. Back then all we had was enamel paints. There was a certain amount of stretch in the dried paint, which would makes it preferable over acrylics.
Joel
Joel