Hell0,
Does anyone know of a decent article on building an aircraft (around WW2 era), from start to finish?? I'm quite new at building an aircraft model and about to start a diorama with my B-17 G 1/72 scale... Any help appreciated

Hi Kaimana,
It looks like you have had quite few view your post but no replies. That's probably because the answer is not an easy one because I don't think that there is an article that will take you through the building of an aircraft model start to finish and therefore anyone who wants to answer your question would end up actually writing that article as the answer, which would take a book, or two

I looked at this yesterday and hoped that someone knew of an article and would be able to help. Unfortunately, like I said, I don't think that there is one. I think what you need are articles on different aspects of model building but, again, these are involved subjects in themselves.

So I will try and help in other another way by asking Aeroscalers to to post tips on various aspects of model building. You have picked a fairly difficult subject, a 4 engined bomber, but its not impossible.

Aeroscalers lets start by helping Kaimana with reading the instructions

Study the instructions carefully so that you know where each part is on the sprues and where each part goes and how it fits. It isn't always clear exactly how some parts fit but that problem is next up. many instructions don't give you very good colour information, especially for the interior, so do research and add notes to the instructions. Especially if you are using an airbrush you need to work out a plan of attack, errr sorry, building, to make exterior building easy; ie leaving off undercarriage, propellers and other dangly bits, if you can, so they don't get knocked off during the build. Basically get to know your subject

OK I hope that others can add something, I will be back tomorrow with the next installment, but I am a bit busy so I might be a bit late In the meantime start studying those instructions

Hi Kaimana . Heres a walkaround for the B17-G it should help you get a better look at a 17 and may also give you a good idea where things go and the colors to use
need anymore help just ask

http://www.primeportal.net/hangar/donald_lemas/b-17g_44-85740/index.php?Page=1

This will also help

http://457thbombgroup.org/walkthru/walk.html

I think one of the best threads is this one: https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/forums/111677

A particularly important lesson to learn, I think: test-fitting and getting things to fit well before glue (e.g. spreaders, spacing shims, sanding, etc.) is much better than using filler.

You can probably find builds in threads on web site for your particular model, or at the very least your aircraft. However, if you are looking for a truly accurate model (not something everyone has to aspire to, it takes some of the fun and all the spontaneity out of the hobby), you have to judge how much research the builder has put in before you trust their colours, weathering, etc.

I recently built the New Airfix Typhoon with just superglue, and knife and a tiny bit of sandpaper. It took just a couple of hours to put it together, and I learn a lot about the fit of the parts. As I just used spots of glue, not covering the whole surface of the joined parts, it should be easy to open the parts again for the real build, and the superglue can be removed easily with knife or sandpaper.

Great guys but I think to answer Kaimana's question we need to do this in stages so instructions first?

OK next up is:

Removing parts from the sprue

Never twist the parts off the sprue, use a craft knife or scalpel and cut them off. If the sprue gates (the attachment points)are big enough, and most are, use a pair of miniature side cutters with the flat side towards the part. Sometimes a razor saw is the best option, usually with limited run kits with large sprue gates or kits with brittle plastic.

After cutting the parts off the sprue they should still have part of the sprue gate attached to the kit part. Trime this off carefully with a craft knife or scalpel, files and emery paper.

Next up:

Cleaning and preparing parts

Because of the injection moulding process most parts will have a mould part seam. This seam needs to be carefully removed. Scrape the seam with a knife blade, the back edge of the blade can often be the best for removing the seam without damaging the part. Files, emery paper, sanding sticks etc should also be considered.

Round parts, such as gun barrels and gear legs should be treated very carefully as they can end up with flat spots. Use a pointed blade, such as a No11 exacto blade for hard to reach seams such as those on the inside of landing gear braces and such.

Next up:

Test fitting parts.

Before applying any glue test fit all parts to determine how well they fit. Work out what is stopping the parts from fitting accurately together and work out a way to alter the fit to make it more accurate.

For smaller items it can often be just a case of trimming the tabs or slots that are used to locate the parts together. on things like the wings and fuselage it may be a case of actually removing (file or cut) the locating pins or adding lengths of sprue cut to spread the parts. Read build articles of the particular model that you are building, they may give you a heads up.

Right guys and gals do you have any more tips on the subjects I have covered today?

More tomorrow

Good so far, but I would add wash the sprues in warm soapy water and allow to air dry before cutting anything off. Make sure you have got all the bits before you let the water go.

Not to be a debbie downer, do you have model-building experience outside of aircraft?

If not, someone should probably say it... if you are trying to do a good job then I suggest starting on something smaller and less complicated, maybe with one engine and single-seat cockpit.

Yes, nice one Andrew, I usually clean the parts as I build sub assemblies, but I'll re-mention this when I get to that. Thanks for the input



Yes a good point Van multi-engine aircraft are more difficult to build than single engined so it would be a good idea to get a few of those under your belt to nail the techniques. there are some really good 1/72 scale aircraft models out there

Next up.

Gluing:
First of all do not use tube cement (glue) Plastic cement works by actually melting the plastic and tube cement gets everywhere and will melt everything that it touches and it is very difficult to apply it just where you need it and it is messy to work with

Use liquid cement; it is applied by brush and it is very clean and much easier to use. Often the bottles have a brush in the lid but I always cut that out, leaving the sealing piece in place. Keep the brush, its nylon bristles can be used for late war antenna Not that nylon is unaffected by the cement as it is designed to be used on polystyrene plastic. Use a small paint brush to apply the cement No2, sometimes smaller for really delicate or small pieces.

With liquid cement you first of all hold the parts together, then apply the glue to the contact point. Having cleaned and test fitted the parts already this is a fairly simple process, but be aware of the angle that the parts might need to be to each other. You can temporarily place them in position to set the correct angles and cement the mating surfaces; sometimes it can be necessary to close complete assemblies within other parts, such as fuselages and nacelles, while the cement sets, but you will want to remove the sub assembly for painting afterwards.

Items cemented together as a separate entity are called "sub-assemblies", these sub assemblies can sometimes be built from many parts. Some of these parts may be already painted when added, so before doing that the none painted parts should be painted. Anything that is painted before it is added must have the paint removed from its gluing surfaces because the cement doesn't work on paint, but it will damage paint. So if you can add items before painting it will save you having to do this, but make sure that you will be bale to get to the part to paint it.

When gluing large parts, like the fuselage, do it in stages. test fit the halves without any sub-assemblies between them so that you know that they fit well. If not sort out the fit, but be aware of removing material off the mating surfaces as that can make the fuselage narrower, which may cause the interior sub-assemblies to hold the halves apart. Add the sub-assemblies within the fuselage, making sure that they are seated correctly and glue them in. The fuselage interior will have been painted so you will either have to protect the gluing surfaces from paint or scrape the paint off them before fitting. Now close up the fuselage, nacelle, etc around the sub-assemblies; if everything is positioned correctly then it shouldn't now cause you any problems. Hold the parts lightly together and apply the liquid cement to the seam line. It will run along it by capillary action, so re-load your brush and apply the cement at intervals. When you have done a section squeeze the halves together and you will get a bead of melted plastic oozing out of the joint. This is good as it means that it is well glued and when trimmed it will have filled any imperfections. If you don't get this oozing of plastic don't worry. You can try adding a touch more cement or try working in shorter sections. Be aware of items that should move, such as gun turrets, don't apply the cement too close to them, let the capillary action do that. As you glue sections apply short lengths of making tape over the joint to keep everything in position as you go. You can apply tape first and apply the cement between the tape but if any cement runs up to the tape it can also be drawn onto the model surface by capillary action at it will make a real mess. If you do get any cement on the model surface don't try and wipe it off. It is very thin and it will evaporate very quickly and may not even damage the surface. If there is more and it does damage the surface then it will be easier to deal with than if you had tried to wipe it off; if you spill a full bottle onto a kit then it will eat it!

Next Up.

Pre-painting.
You will want to paint parts for sub-assemblies and paint sub-assemblies and interiors before you get to the main construction.

For paint to adhere to plastic it must be washed. The moulds are coated in a type of oil to aid the release of parts and this oil must be remove. You can do as Andrew suggests and wash the parts in warm soapy water while they are on the sprue or you can wash them before painting, which is what I do. The reason for doing it before painting is because you have oils and grease on your hands so, unless you are very careful, you will re-contaminate the parts as you handle them to clean them up. Having said that Andrews method is easier and is a good way, just wash your hands before handling the parts. If you do wash the parts in warm soapy water then you need to rinse them off and let them dry (if you use a hair dryer be careful not to melt anything!) I use Isopropynol (rubbing alcohol)(surface cleaner) applied with an old tooth brush. Being alcohol it evaporates very quickly and there is now waiting for it to dry.

So before painting clean all parts

Anything to add guys and gals?

I am going to wait for Kaimana to indicate that he is reading this before posting any more as its time consuming.