Quoted Text
Very nice work Joel, loving the engine!
Kind regards.
Sven, thanks so much for the kind words.
Joel
World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
1/48 scale Hasegawa SBD-4 Dauntless
Joel_W
Associate Editor
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Monday, August 26, 2013 - 08:32 AM UTC
Sven, thanks so much for the kind words.
Joel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 - 08:58 AM UTC
Time for another small update. I decided to open the cowl flaps, so I cut out the original flaps, thinned the trailing edges, then cut the flaps apart. I compensated for the saw cuts by gluing .020 sheet to the sides of the flaps. I glued up a small ledge on the inside to create a mounting surface.
I then glued up the resin Outboost engine to the backing plate, then dry fitted it to the front of the oil/water housing. Then taped the housing to the fuselage, and then taped the cowl over the engine.
Next up was to test out my idea of mounting the dive flaps. I'm using steel pins to glue them to the wings. I used 2 pins, but will be adding a 3rd pin in the middle to deal with the slight warping.
The handle of the clamp is just used to hold the flap in position for these pictures.
Thanks for taking the time to stop by.
Joel
I then glued up the resin Outboost engine to the backing plate, then dry fitted it to the front of the oil/water housing. Then taped the housing to the fuselage, and then taped the cowl over the engine.
Next up was to test out my idea of mounting the dive flaps. I'm using steel pins to glue them to the wings. I used 2 pins, but will be adding a 3rd pin in the middle to deal with the slight warping.
The handle of the clamp is just used to hold the flap in position for these pictures.
Thanks for taking the time to stop by.
Joel
WoodshedWings
Joined: October 11, 2012
KitMaker: 141 posts
AeroScale: 139 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 - 03:18 PM UTC
Just catching up with this now Joel. Great work on the 'pit and engine. Loving the extra detail.
Cheers, Mike.
Cheers, Mike.
wychdoctor92394
Joined: July 07, 2013
KitMaker: 219 posts
AeroScale: 136 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 - 07:41 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Ben, Actually the interior is quite weathered between dry brushing and a few washes with Flory Dark. The problem is my photography technique. The Flash is still too strong even though I've decreased it's intensity, so the washes get a little washed out. The interior is actually quite dark at this point.
Mark, I was quite pleased at the fit of the tub into the fuselage. I was prepared for it being rather sloppy, but in fact, it fits very snuggly, and right where it was intended to be. My only complaint if you can call it that, is that it wasn't nearly as detailed as what we've come to expect with the latest 1/48 scale releases.
Thanks guys for taking the time to post your thoughts and comments.
Joel
Try using a gauze pad gently taped over the flash unit (leaving about a finger's width between the flash face and the gauze pad). It might diffuse the light enough...
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 29, 2013 - 02:48 AM UTC
Mike,
thanks so much for the kind words.
James,
Will give the gauze a try. I'm shooting with a Nikon D90 and have already cut the flash intensity down, but as you can see, I'm still getting hot spots.
Joel
thanks so much for the kind words.
James,
Will give the gauze a try. I'm shooting with a Nikon D90 and have already cut the flash intensity down, but as you can see, I'm still getting hot spots.
Joel
phumbles
Joined: June 14, 2013
KitMaker: 82 posts
AeroScale: 81 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 12:01 AM UTC
Hi Joel you have got a fair bit done since I last looked. It seems to be coming together nicely Have fun Phil 
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 31, 2013 - 11:07 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Joel you have got a fair bit done since I last looked. It seems to be coming together nicely Have fun Phil
Thanks Phil. Got a lot done, but have so much more to do before I can hope to see the finish line.
Joel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 10, 2013 - 05:10 AM UTC
Finally, time for another update.
The Dive flaps are finally just about finished. I still need to final sand to shape the lower wing ones. Test fitted them to checkout my mounting system using pre-bent steel pins.
Here's one set of diver brakes. You can see that the ribs need to be sanded to profile. The out of alignment in the 2nd picture is due to the fact that that they're not glued into the correct position.
The lower section of the fuselage where the fuselage dive flap is located, should be level all the way across. Unfortunately, that's not the case. So I had to use sheet plastic and plenty of Green stuff to level the whole area. After I accomplished that, I added the ribs and stringers, which also need a final shaping. You can also see the 3 holes I drilled to a concave shape for the formation lights.
There is a small space that I left between the ribs and the plastic rod so that the dive flap seat correctly when attached.
Next up was the two wing bomb racks. Typical of most smaller scale models, those racks aren't really detailed. I added a piece of plastic rod that simulate the bomb cradle slides onto. The mounting brackets will be glued to the shaft as a final detail.
The bomb racks mounted to the wing using green stuff to blend them in as even after some rounding with a file, there was still some gaps to deal with.
Finally, I'm just about ready to prime and start the painting/decaling/weathering process.
As always, thanks for taking the time to stop by and checkout my efforts.
Joel
The Dive flaps are finally just about finished. I still need to final sand to shape the lower wing ones. Test fitted them to checkout my mounting system using pre-bent steel pins.
Here's one set of diver brakes. You can see that the ribs need to be sanded to profile. The out of alignment in the 2nd picture is due to the fact that that they're not glued into the correct position.
The lower section of the fuselage where the fuselage dive flap is located, should be level all the way across. Unfortunately, that's not the case. So I had to use sheet plastic and plenty of Green stuff to level the whole area. After I accomplished that, I added the ribs and stringers, which also need a final shaping. You can also see the 3 holes I drilled to a concave shape for the formation lights.
There is a small space that I left between the ribs and the plastic rod so that the dive flap seat correctly when attached.
Next up was the two wing bomb racks. Typical of most smaller scale models, those racks aren't really detailed. I added a piece of plastic rod that simulate the bomb cradle slides onto. The mounting brackets will be glued to the shaft as a final detail.
The bomb racks mounted to the wing using green stuff to blend them in as even after some rounding with a file, there was still some gaps to deal with.
Finally, I'm just about ready to prime and start the painting/decaling/weathering process.
As always, thanks for taking the time to stop by and checkout my efforts.
Joel
sweaver
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
AeroScale: 184 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 - 02:47 AM UTC
Impressive. You have more patience with putty and little pieces of styrene than I do!
I'm curious, why did you use the Hasegawa kit for this? I built AM's kit and it was without a doubt the best model kit I ever built. Was it simply a matter of building what was on hand, or does this make a better foundation for your (awesome) work?
I'm curious, why did you use the Hasegawa kit for this? I built AM's kit and it was without a doubt the best model kit I ever built. Was it simply a matter of building what was on hand, or does this make a better foundation for your (awesome) work?
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 - 03:07 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Impressive. You have more patience with putty and little pieces of styrene than I do!
I'm curious, why did you use the Hasegawa kit for this? I built AM's kit and it was without a doubt the best model kit I ever built. Was it simply a matter of building what was on hand, or does this make a better foundation for your (awesome) work?
Sam, thanks so much for the kind words. I had bought the Hasegawa kit a few years ago, looked at it, lost the Edward PE fret that came with it because it was on sale. Picked it back up a few months ago when I was looking for a model to build for next years IPMS Noreastcon and Replicon that had posibilities. If I had to do it all over again, I'd opt for the Accurate Miniature's kit in a second.
Joel
Antoon3103
Joined: March 31, 2012
KitMaker: 224 posts
AeroScale: 146 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 - 04:50 AM UTC
Joel,
Impressive work all around.
Nice details, good painting.
Keep it up.
Tony
Impressive work all around.
Nice details, good painting.
Keep it up.
Tony
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 - 06:34 AM UTC
Tony, Thanks so much for the positive comments.
Joel
Joel
phumbles
Joined: June 14, 2013
KitMaker: 82 posts
AeroScale: 81 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 12:23 AM UTC
I'm enjoying following your build Joel but I think you have more patience than me Have fun Phil
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 09:30 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm enjoying following your build Joel but I think you have more patience than me Have fun Phil
Phil, Actually, I find the detailing to be kind of relaxing. When I do get frustrated with some details I'm working on, I just put it down for a while, then pick it back up when I'm ready to tackle that issue once again. Believe me, patience is something I have very little of.
Joel
GastonMarty
Joined: April 19, 2008
KitMaker: 595 posts
AeroScale: 507 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 09:53 AM UTC
I just compared the Hasegawa and Accurate Miniatures kit, and I think the Hasegawa is generally more accurate, except for its too thick cowling lips.
The Hasegawa fabric effect is more subtle and accurate overall. The Hasegawa tailplanes are also much thinner.
The most peculiar Accurate Miniatures error to me was the junction of the tailfin to the rear fuselage, which they radiused into a hollow radius, while the real thing is more of a hard square joint like on the Hasegawa kit.
Another thing is the wingtip cross-section which, seen from behind, looks different in reality compared to the AM kit. I haven't really compared this to the Hasegawa kit yet, but the wingtip area does appear thinner there...
Although the AM flaps are separate and perforated, they have really large gaps right and left when fitted to the wings... Hasegawa is just a simple two-part wing with dimples for holes, but no gap problem...
Finally, the AM windscreen is strangely triangular in plan view, which is much less correct than the much more blunt Hasegawa windscreen. I did very much like the one-piece closed canopy option exclusive to the AM kit however, and will use that on the Hasegawa fuselage instead of multiple pieces: The fit is Ok to the Hasegawa fuselage, with slight adjustments, and perfect in cross-section to the Hasegawa windscreen!
For the Hasegawa dimpled holes, I plan on just using a dark wash to simulate them...
Gaston
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 10:21 AM UTC
Gaston, thanks so much for the detailed comparison. Seems that I lucked out with the Hasegawa kit.
The Cowl flaps were certainly on the thick side. I did thin them out, then cut them into individual flaps so they could be positioned in the open position. As I mentioned, I needed to add some sheet plastic to each one to compensate for the saw cutting.
As for the tailplanes, they're so thin you can almost see through them.
I would re-consider just using a black wash to simulate the holes in the dive flaps. The dimples are rather shallow and large enough in dia. to make it hard to make them look as though they're actually holes. If you're not going to open the dive flaps up, why not just drill them out in the closed position? I'll grant you that 300 holes does take some time, but the end result is well worth the effort.
Joel
The Cowl flaps were certainly on the thick side. I did thin them out, then cut them into individual flaps so they could be positioned in the open position. As I mentioned, I needed to add some sheet plastic to each one to compensate for the saw cutting.
As for the tailplanes, they're so thin you can almost see through them.
I would re-consider just using a black wash to simulate the holes in the dive flaps. The dimples are rather shallow and large enough in dia. to make it hard to make them look as though they're actually holes. If you're not going to open the dive flaps up, why not just drill them out in the closed position? I'll grant you that 300 holes does take some time, but the end result is well worth the effort.
Joel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Monday, September 16, 2013 - 07:58 AM UTC
Time for another update.
Finally got to the point where it was time to apply some paint. Started off with Tamiya's Lacquer Gray primer to check for any errors. Found a few, and fixed them. Re-primed as needed. Next was the bottom color of Neutral Gray ANA 603. The color was custom mixed using Tamiya XF-20 Medium Gray, & a few drops of XF-2 flat white. The top was painted ANA 608 Intermediate Blue, that is also a custom mix of Tamiya XF-18 & XF-19 to simulate paint fading due to the strong Pacific sun, and salt water spray. To further produce the irregular blotchy fading effects, I added some white to the mix, and randomly applied it the center areas of various panels, and to the flying surfaces, since they're fabric covered except the dive flaps. I then re-applied the intermediate Blue adding a few drops of Dark Sea Blue that was airbrushed along the panel lines.
Next step will be a few coats of Testors Glosscoat for decaling, then a few more coats of Glosscoat to blend in the decals. Then a mix of Glosscoat and Dullcoat for a Matt finish so I can start the weathering process. The final weathered aircraft hopefully will look even more faded, and some what dirtier then what you see here.
Thanks for stopping by.
Joel
Finally got to the point where it was time to apply some paint. Started off with Tamiya's Lacquer Gray primer to check for any errors. Found a few, and fixed them. Re-primed as needed. Next was the bottom color of Neutral Gray ANA 603. The color was custom mixed using Tamiya XF-20 Medium Gray, & a few drops of XF-2 flat white. The top was painted ANA 608 Intermediate Blue, that is also a custom mix of Tamiya XF-18 & XF-19 to simulate paint fading due to the strong Pacific sun, and salt water spray. To further produce the irregular blotchy fading effects, I added some white to the mix, and randomly applied it the center areas of various panels, and to the flying surfaces, since they're fabric covered except the dive flaps. I then re-applied the intermediate Blue adding a few drops of Dark Sea Blue that was airbrushed along the panel lines.
Next step will be a few coats of Testors Glosscoat for decaling, then a few more coats of Glosscoat to blend in the decals. Then a mix of Glosscoat and Dullcoat for a Matt finish so I can start the weathering process. The final weathered aircraft hopefully will look even more faded, and some what dirtier then what you see here.
Thanks for stopping by.
Joel
Jessie_C
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,965 posts
AeroScale: 6,247 posts
Posted: Monday, September 16, 2013 - 12:57 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm curious, why did you use the Hasegawa kit for this? I built AM's kit and it was without a doubt the best model kit I ever built.
Just be thankful it wasn't the Monogram kit.
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - 03:16 AM UTC
Jessica, I do remember building that kit years and years ago in what feels like another life time. Back in those days, the Monogram kit was cutting edge. Your build looks really well done.
Joel
Jessie_C
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 6,965 posts
AeroScale: 6,247 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - 05:59 AM UTC
I used the ancient stone age Medallion Models resin details kit. This was in the days when you had to sand each little bit out of its wafer and glue it to the sidewalls. The instructions were hand-drawn and photocopied : )
Then I used the Falcon canopy and an Aries resin engine. The thing I like about the Monogram kit is that it has the correct raised rivets. Like you, I had to hand drill out the dive brake holes and scratch build the ribs inside.
Then I used the Falcon canopy and an Aries resin engine. The thing I like about the Monogram kit is that it has the correct raised rivets. Like you, I had to hand drill out the dive brake holes and scratch build the ribs inside.
GastonMarty
Joined: April 19, 2008
KitMaker: 595 posts
AeroScale: 507 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - 07:08 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Gaston, thanks so much for the detailed comparison. Seems that I lucked out with the Hasegawa kit.
The Cowl flaps were certainly on the thick side. I did thin them out, then cut them into individual flaps so they could be positioned in the open position. As I mentioned, I needed to add some sheet plastic to each one to compensate for the saw cutting.
As for the tailplanes, they're so thin you can almost see through them.
I would re-consider just using a black wash to simulate the holes in the dive flaps. The dimples are rather shallow and large enough in dia. to make it hard to make them look as though they're actually holes. If you're not going to open the dive flaps up, why not just drill them out in the closed position? I'll grant you that 300 holes does take some time, but the end result is well worth the effort.
Joel
You are right: I was under the wrong impression they were not completely see-through in the closed position: I have to figure out a way of drilling them out without damaging the trailing edges: Certainly the holes must be done before sharpening the trailing edges.....
The real trailing edges were razor sharp in the closed position : Even photo etch pieces would be far to thick if you put two of them overlapping (they do not have the "intermeshing" saw edge like the Helldiver):
I wonder if transplanting the already drilled-out Accurate Miniatures plastic pieces, sharpening them and then splicing them into the Hasegawa wing, would not save me some work: The pieces fit very poorly to their own kit anyway, with huge gaps right and left...
Gaston
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - 08:11 AM UTC
Gaston, if you're not going to have the dive flaps open, then just tape the wing halves to a piece of pine (soft wood that won't dull your drill bit), with the flap flush with the wood. Use a needle to mark the center of the whole, and drill. I did two flaps per night, and the middle flap had it's own day. Like I said, it's well worth the effort.
Jessica, I'm trying to use the kit greenhouse with all sections closed except the pilots glass.
Joel
Jessica, I'm trying to use the kit greenhouse with all sections closed except the pilots glass.
Joel
wychdoctor92394
Joined: July 07, 2013
KitMaker: 219 posts
AeroScale: 136 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - 08:16 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextBen, Actually the interior is quite weathered between dry brushing and a few washes with Flory Dark. The problem is my photography technique. The Flash is still too strong even though I've decreased it's intensity, so the washes get a little washed out. The interior is actually quite dark at this point.
Mark, I was quite pleased at the fit of the tub into the fuselage. I was prepared for it being rather sloppy, but in fact, it fits very snuggly, and right where it was intended to be. My only complaint if you can call it that, is that it wasn't nearly as detailed as what we've come to expect with the latest 1/48 scale releases.
Thanks guys for taking the time to post your thoughts and comments.
Joel
Try using a gauze pad gently taped over the flash unit (leaving about a finger's width between the flash face and the gauze pad). It might diffuse the light enough...
How's the gauze covering on the flash unit working for you?
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - 09:53 AM UTC
James, I tried the gauze as well as turning down the flash power. The Nikon compensated just fine for the power adjustment, but I didn't compensate enough for the gauze on my own, and had some drastic under exposure as a result. Will have to "play" with it some more until I get a better feel for it.
Joel
Joel
wychdoctor92394
Joined: July 07, 2013
KitMaker: 219 posts
AeroScale: 136 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - 10:31 AM UTC
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