Hi All
I'm considering getting the Revell rebox of the Bristol F2b.
I'm aware it was originally done Eduard.
Would it be a good place to start for a WWI aircraft newbie?
and any other comments appreciated.
Cheers
Chris
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
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Any comments re Revell Bristol F.2B
chris1
Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 - 07:48 AM UTC
Jessie_C
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Posted: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 - 08:38 AM UTC
It's a really excellent kit, but perhaps not one for a WW I newbie; it's got some complicated struttery and rather a lot of rigging. Try some Nieuports and Fokker D.VIIs first to get your hand in before attempting the Brisfit.
WoodshedWings
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 - 09:03 AM UTC
I'm currently building the Biff in 1/32nd and can concur about the rigging. I did the Eduard Walfisch as my first WW1 attempt and would recommend it, as the rigging is fairly simple but it still builds into a nice model. My build review can be found here
StukaJr
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Posted: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 - 10:33 AM UTC
Bristol Fighter does have extra-complexities that make it less recommended as first Early Aviation project - unless you prefer to dive in on the deep end. It is, however, a fine kit* with somewhat of a learning curve.
Rigging is on the complex side - two sets of vertical wing struts, double rigging wires in places, external control wires etc. Getting correct wing alignment is tricky on Eduard kits as struts are at an angle, lower wing plane is offset from the fuselage / landing gears... One at a time, these are good items to learn on, but all at once may be a bit overwhelming.
Allied two-seaters are quite complex, I do second Roland as first two seater and Nieuport as a starter if you must do an Allied plane.
*I don't know what the rebox entails - is it rebox of Weekend Edition or with PE, masks and proper manual/decals?
Rigging is on the complex side - two sets of vertical wing struts, double rigging wires in places, external control wires etc. Getting correct wing alignment is tricky on Eduard kits as struts are at an angle, lower wing plane is offset from the fuselage / landing gears... One at a time, these are good items to learn on, but all at once may be a bit overwhelming.
Allied two-seaters are quite complex, I do second Roland as first two seater and Nieuport as a starter if you must do an Allied plane.
*I don't know what the rebox entails - is it rebox of Weekend Edition or with PE, masks and proper manual/decals?
thegirl
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Posted: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 - 12:15 PM UTC
If you want to do this as your first build for a WWI aircraft . I concur on what the others have said with the amount of rigging and the complexity of the struts and wings . If you are up for the challenge I say go for it ! When you help lot's of helping hands here .
Terri
Terri
Posted: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 - 12:31 PM UTC
I built the Roden 1 1/2 strutter as my first foray into 2 seat types although in single seat form, nice kit and not too difficult
Jessie_C
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Posted: Wednesday, January 15, 2014 - 02:24 PM UTC
Quoted Text
*I don't know what the rebox entails - is it rebox of Weekend Edition or with PE, masks and proper manual/decals?
Going by Revell's past track record reboxing Eduard kits I'd guess that it's only the plastic.
CaptnTommy
Connecticut, United States
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Posted: Thursday, January 16, 2014 - 04:04 AM UTC
Being an older gentleman I would recommend the SMER Neiuport 11 or the heir Sopwith Camel. these are simple kits of the early age of plastic based/copied on the Aurora kits and in 1/48 scale. Glencoe kits are the same, Basic and simple and inexpensive. accuate enough but definatly aimed at the biplane beginner.
If you want to enter WWI modeling they are the way to go. I cut my teeth on the Auroras, and still build them.
Captn Tommy
If you want to enter WWI modeling they are the way to go. I cut my teeth on the Auroras, and still build them.
Captn Tommy
Bink123
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Posted: Thursday, January 16, 2014 - 07:03 AM UTC
I agree with Jessie, Nieuport 11 or 17, or a fokker D.VII would be a better place to start. The Eduard Nieuport 11 is available as an inexpensive 'weekend' kit and is an easy build (for a biplane)
I built the Roden Bristol fighter and It drove me nuts trying to align the forest of struts in order to mount the top wing. Rigging was tiresome, a test of patience.
Another tack, the Lindberg 1/48 curtiss Jenny can be built into a nice kit. The struts are joined as pairs which make alignment and mounting of the top wing easy. Makes we wonder why the other guys haven't done it. It does have a lot of rigging. The Jenny is a beautiful biplane and a certified classic.
I built the Roden Bristol fighter and It drove me nuts trying to align the forest of struts in order to mount the top wing. Rigging was tiresome, a test of patience.
Another tack, the Lindberg 1/48 curtiss Jenny can be built into a nice kit. The struts are joined as pairs which make alignment and mounting of the top wing easy. Makes we wonder why the other guys haven't done it. It does have a lot of rigging. The Jenny is a beautiful biplane and a certified classic.
Jessie_C
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Posted: Thursday, January 16, 2014 - 08:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The struts are joined as pairs which make alignment and mounting of the top wing easy. Makes we wonder why the other guys haven't done it.
Probably because cleaning up that awful trench on either side of the strut cutout is a royal pain. But either way you engineer it, there's no easy way to do biplanes. Even in 1/1 scale rigging a biplane is an exercise in frustration.
Bink123
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Posted: Thursday, January 16, 2014 - 10:28 AM UTC
Well, yes, but if you are vigilant they can clean up OK.
I still think that something could be done by the model makers to help align struts. maybe a cut-a-way X between the struts.
BTW if I recall, the Revell Germany 1/28 Sopwith Camel has struts joined top and bottom ( to be re- released inMarch )
I still think that something could be done by the model makers to help align struts. maybe a cut-a-way X between the struts.
BTW if I recall, the Revell Germany 1/28 Sopwith Camel has struts joined top and bottom ( to be re- released inMarch )
Jessie_C
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Posted: Thursday, January 16, 2014 - 11:06 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I still think that something could be done by the model makers to help align struts. maybe a cut-a-way X between the struts.
I like that idea. I like it a lot. Are you listening, Eduard? Roden? Wingnut Wings?
lcarroll
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Posted: Thursday, January 16, 2014 - 11:50 AM UTC
Brilliant!
Cheers,
Lance
Cheers,
Lance
WoodshedWings
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Posted: Thursday, January 16, 2014 - 05:05 PM UTC
Doesn't the Airfix Gladiator have this arrangement to help align the struts?
Jessie_C
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Posted: Thursday, January 16, 2014 - 05:50 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Doesn't the Airfix Gladiator have this arrangement to help align the struts?
I knew had seen that recently! Airfix got it right, so there's no reason why any other company can't.
robot_
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Posted: Thursday, January 16, 2014 - 09:43 PM UTC
Airfix's design is great, but their mould-makers limitation on the thickness of the sprue gates means that it will be tricky to remove the x piece and clean-up the scars.
CaptnTommy
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Posted: Friday, January 17, 2014 - 09:36 AM UTC
The early Monogram Curtiss P-6 and F11C/BFC eased alignment by molding the Centersection strus to the fuselage so the top and bottom wing was aligned when you installed the interplanes (also the Boeing F4B)( all 1/72 scale and very nice.)
Captn Tommy
Captn Tommy
lcarroll
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Posted: Friday, January 17, 2014 - 12:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The early Monogram Curtiss P-6 and F11C/BFC eased alignment by molding the Centersection strus to the fuselage so the top and bottom wing was aligned when you installed the interplanes (also the Boeing F4B)( all 1/72 scale and very nice.)
Captn Tommy
I remember that feature on the F4B, they were truly great little Kits for their day and you couldn't miss with wing alignment. It was 1969 or 70 when I did the F4B, I took it with me on Temporary Duty to NAS Norfolk and did most of it while there in fact.
I use a template to match the upper wing joins to ensure Cabane alignment along with a Biplane assembly jig these days and, although it takes extra time, has never failed me.
Cheers,
Lance
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Posted: Friday, January 17, 2014 - 07:29 PM UTC
IIRC the old 1/72nd scale Airfix Sopwith Pup had a jig to help you align the wings. I also think that the old Matchbox Hawker Fury had the cabane struts molded into a piece that made up the top of the fuselage.