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Rotary Wing
Discuss helicopters and other rotary wing aircraft from any era.
Hosted by Gino P. Quintiliani
AH-1F Corba Gunship 1/48
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
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Posted: Friday, February 28, 2014 - 12:41 PM UTC
I remember building this kit many moons ago a few times . The version with the big orange decals for the fuselage side . So it's time to build another one .







Terri
FloydWerner
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Maryland, United States
Joined: February 19, 2006
KitMaker: 144 posts
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Posted: Friday, February 28, 2014 - 04:56 PM UTC
It's a good kit but don't forget to check out Werner's Wings for decals and resin upgrades if you choose to go that route. www.wernerswings.com
Floyd
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
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Posted: Saturday, March 01, 2014 - 11:43 AM UTC
Terri,
Can't wait to follow along with your build. I'm looking forward to starting my very 1st helicopter soon. Been modeling a long, long time, but never even attempted to build one.
Joel
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, March 02, 2014 - 03:27 AM UTC
Thanks Floyd for dropping by . First time me being on you web site . You have some interesting stuff .



Joel , not going to have to wait very long . I painted up the pit and dull coated it yesterday . Nice and dry for the weathering . For a kit with age too it the detail is pretty dame good . I used the kits instrument decals and it did take a bit of sol to get them to snuggle down .

















Terri
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
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Posted: Sunday, March 02, 2014 - 03:47 AM UTC
Terri,
Very nice front office. You sure have a steady hand as I don't seen any runs. The IP looks really good too.

Joel
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, March 02, 2014 - 03:30 PM UTC
Not so much of a steady hand but the right paint / thinner sure do aid in the application .

Today I spent the day weathering the pit , painting the engine and adding frame work to the inside of the engine bay side walls . Not fully accurate in the least bit but it's better then not having anything there at all . Weapons have been assembled and the cockpit/engine bay got a coat of olive drab .























Terri
JPTRR
Staff MemberManaging Editor
RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: December 21, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, March 02, 2014 - 03:52 PM UTC
Hi Terri,

I am amazed at your instrument panels and how you made the screen of the engine look so good.

I don't know the model but here's some pix of a Cobra: http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/features/3948
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
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Posted: Monday, March 03, 2014 - 01:45 AM UTC
Terri,
You're too modest. Yes, the right paint and proper thinner are important, but if one's hand shakes the paint will still flow, just in the wrong places. Just as important is decent, if not good eye sight. Believe me I know. Even with a #5 Optivisor it's a struggle at times. Starting to think about going for a #7 as well.

Your engine is looking pretty good as well.

Looking forward to your next update.

Joel
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, March 04, 2014 - 02:41 PM UTC
Thanks Joel , my main paints I used for painting cockpits is Vallejo and Tamiya . Thinner is either water or lacquer . Both paints level off very well with no brush strokes in the paint .


I got a bit more done and working on the canopy at the moment . Once this is dip in future and mask I will have an up-date .





Terri
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, March 05, 2014 - 02:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks Joel , my main paints I used for painting cockpits is Vallejo and Tamiya . Thinner is either water or lacquer . Both paints level off very well with no brush strokes in the paint .


I got a bit more done and working on the canopy at the moment . Once this is dip in future and mask I will have an up-date .

Terri


Terri,
I also use Tamiya acrylics for hand painting, all are thinned with plain Jane Lacquer Thinner. I've found that not only does the paint flow easier, & generally with no brush strokes (still brush in only one direction), but when the paint dries it just seems smoother then if I thinned it with their X20-A. The reasoning from what I've read is that the Lacquer Thinner actually breaks down the paint particles.

I've been experimenting air brushing with Lacquer Thinner and Tamiya Acrylics, and the results are better then with X-20A. The only issue is the smell.

Joel
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Monday, March 10, 2014 - 01:00 PM UTC
Okay , I didn't make it to the primer this weekend do the weather warming up . We went from -45 with the wind chill to plus 7 So time was had out side . I did get to the point that it is ready for that primer coat . I had to shim the canopy at the top rear and the left front side in order to get a good fit .









The kit canopy is to be fixed in place in the closed postion so I did a bit od cutting here and there and will have the pilot side open and the gunners open as well .






I also added a bit of screen .






Terri
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
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Posted: Monday, March 10, 2014 - 01:51 PM UTC
Terri,
Maybe you didn't make it to the primer stage, but you're right there. Nice job on the greenhouse. That's two in row with major glass.
Joel
drabslab
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European Union
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Posted: Monday, March 10, 2014 - 11:04 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I did get to the point that it is ready for that primer coat .


I must admit that I never prime a model.

What are you using as a primer?
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 - 11:40 PM UTC
Thanks Joel , It was a lot easier to mask this one then the P-61 green house .

Drab , Normally I don't prime either but I used squadron green for filling in and it takes to much paint to cover this . For the primer I will use a light grey paint making this a close match to the colour of the plastic .



Terri
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, March 12, 2014 - 12:44 AM UTC
I do and don't prime, now how's that for playing both sides of the fence. All Squadron Green stuff gets sealed with a coat of Super glue, then polished. If I used more then a tad of putty, I do prime. If I'm painting colors such as white, red, yellow, bright green, or Bright orange I prime as well. My primer of choice is Tamiya's lacquer gray primer, not the white stuff.

I've just picked up a bottle of Gunze Sangyo Primer Surface 1,000, and will be trying that out for both sealing, and priming as well.

Joel
FloydWerner
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Maryland, United States
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Posted: Friday, March 14, 2014 - 12:49 AM UTC
STOP THE PRESSES! The ADS boom off of the canopy is upside down. Other than that it looks good.
Floyd
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
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Posted: Friday, March 14, 2014 - 04:01 AM UTC
I'm a complete helicopter neophyte. Floyd, are you referring to that long boom off the side of the cockpit glass?.
Joel
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Friday, March 14, 2014 - 10:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

STOP THE PRESSES! The ADS boom off of the canopy is upside down. Other than that it looks good.
Floyd


I thought it didn't look right . The instructions aren't very clear on this and I should have check online , but I didn't . I'm glad I only tack it place . Thank you Floyd for the heads up on my error . I would have refixed back in place the same way !



Terri
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Friday, March 14, 2014 - 10:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I do and don't prime, now how's that for playing both sides of the fence. All Squadron Green stuff gets sealed with a coat of Super glue, then polished. If I used more then a tad of putty, I do prime. If I'm painting colors such as white, red, yellow, bright green, or Bright orange I prime as well. My primer of choice is Tamiya's lacquer gray primer, not the white stuff.

I've just picked up a bottle of Gunze Sangyo Primer Surface 1,000, and will be trying that out for both sealing, and priming as well.

Joel



I'm pretty much the same way when it comes to priming . Depends on what I used as a filler . I rather use Squadron white putty , but I'm out at the moment so will use up the green stuff first . I also use Mr. Surface 500 and 1000 and love the stuff ! Last along time as well , just keep the lid tight .




Terri
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
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Posted: Friday, March 14, 2014 - 01:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I do and don't prime, now how's that for playing both sides of the fence. All Squadron Green stuff gets sealed with a coat of Super glue, then polished. If I used more then a tad of putty, I do prime. If I'm painting colors such as white, red, yellow, bright green, or Bright orange I prime as well. My primer of choice is Tamiya's lacquer gray primer, not the white stuff.

I've just picked up a bottle of Gunze Sangyo Primer Surface 1,000, and will be trying that out for both sealing, and priming as well.

Joel



I'm pretty much the same way when it comes to priming . Depends on what I used as a filler . I rather use Squadron white putty , but I'm out at the moment so will use up the green stuff first . I also use Mr. Surface 500 and 1000 and love the stuff ! Last along time as well , just keep the lid tight .

Terri


Terri,
Haven't even opened the bottle yet. I'm just assuming it's the same as Tamiya Gray primer, just thicker.
Joel
FloydWerner
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Maryland, United States
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Posted: Friday, March 14, 2014 - 03:17 PM UTC
Yes the boom on the canopy
Floyd
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2014 - 05:27 AM UTC
Work continues with the painting and have the base coat on . I did do pre-shading using black paint . The base colour is a mix of Tamiya desert yellow and buff . Exhaust was sprayed with Testors Model Master buffable paints . First with exhaust then burnt exhaust .







thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2014 - 05:33 AM UTC
With the clear coat dried it was time for the decals . They are all in place and sealed in with another coat of clear . Reat of the detail paint on the fuselage is finished up as well . Some weathering has started already but there is still a fair bit more to do .

















Terri
Joel_W
Staff MemberAssociate Editor
AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2014 - 07:02 AM UTC
Terri,
Wow!! I'm impressed. Your paint and decals came out spectacular. Same for your Weapon loads.

Joel
FloydWerner
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Maryland, United States
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Posted: Monday, March 17, 2014 - 08:37 AM UTC
Couple of things. The front of your rotor blades look yellow. They should be gloss black. The material is called estane, a rubber like covering.

The front of the rocket pods and TOW launchers should be FS34031 US Army Helicopter green. Of course it is your model just my .02 cents
Floyd
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