Thanks Joel
As I mentioned I did a test on the plastic top of a spray can and clear coated the rub n buff and it took well and still looks good. That was about a month ago. Hopefully it will repeat it self on the model. Will let you know as I will probably clear coat it in a couple of days.

Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
Looking forward to your pictures. And speaking of pictures, how about a few of your build to date.
Joel
J

Here are a couple of photos:

Laurie,
In both photos your NMF really looks quite good. Actually better then I thought a Rub N Buff finish would be. I did do a few Google searchers myself, and other modelers do use it. Like you found, some seal, and some don't.

One suggestion about your pictures is to use a free cloud service like Photobucket or Flickr rather then posting to your gallery. There are a few advantages to using a Cloud service:

1-Your pictures appear in your post full size, not as thumbnails that have to be click on as links, making it easier for the viewers to see your work.

2-You will quickly fill up your allotted gallery space. I'm not sure how you delete pictures from your gallery, as I've never been able to figure it out.

Looking forward to seeing your next update.

Joel

Hi Joel
Yes I found using the gallery a bit cumbersome. I had to copy the photo reference and then paste it in the post. Then I went back to the gallery to get the second photo and copy the second photo reference and when I went back to my post it had disappeared. It is really different to the one I used on the boat building forum where you could just download them directly into your post. They must have used some cloud program. I will check out the two you have referred to. I intend to clear coat the sabre on Sunday. Fingers crossed

Laurie,
Photobucket is the easier of the two. I'll give you a few short cuts when you're ready to copy and paste the URLs of the pictures. When you want to work with a post your currently working in, you need to open up a new window to the where ever your pictures are. As you found out, when you leave and comeback to the Aeroscale page where your post is, it's gone. Believe me, I learned that the hard way. And more then once. Still screw up every now and then.

What and how are you clear coating with?
Joel

Hi Joel. Yes every forum has a different set up. Takes a bit of getting used to. As far as the clear coat is concerned I was at Masters Hardware (I think they may have come from USA) and found this produce. It is really designed for timber but it worked well on my test plastic top. It is called Minwax Water Based Polycrylic Protective Finish. It is very cold on the Gold Coast at the moment as we are getting a movement of air from Antartica. Great snow in the Snowy Mountains and some parts of Sydney had snow the other day. So if Sunday if reasonably warm I am going to give it a few light coats. I actually had a look at Photobucket and signed up. Will take a photo on Sunday or Monday and upload it and see what happens.

Regards

Laurie

Hi Joel. Things havent been going very well. The spray can of clear gloss has been a bit of a disaster. It has done the job of sealing the rub n buff but it has been orange peeling. Not sure why. Maybe I was holding can too far away or too close or it was too cold and windy. I put the can in some hot water for a while but it didnt seem to change much. Anyway the worst was yet to come. I had just applied a third coat and had a chop stick stuck up the exhaust of the sabre and was carrying it back inside and someone came to my gate with a dog and my dog ran from inside barking and I got distracted and the model fell onto the driveway. The wings and a few other parts came off. I am not that happy with the Mr. Cement S glue or maybe it just my technique. The lacquer was also damaged so I was extremely frustrated. But I am treating this model as a learning curve so I decided to try and repair and do the best I can with it. I decided to rub back the clear gloss with a very micro fine piece of sandpaper to remove some of the damage and orange peel. Worked a bit but not perfect. I decided to use a product I had used on my boat hulls. It is called Jo Sonjas Gloss Varnish. I is a water based polyurethane. I wish I had used it from the start. I painted it on with a brush and it doesnt leave any brush marks and is very easy to work with. Anyway I am in the process of applying a few more coats and then I will apply the decals. I will post a picture when it dries and before I apply the decals.
I have made a lot of mistakes but I have learnt a lot of lessons. I have to be a bit more precise with lining things up and with surface preparation. I also have to be a bit more patient and let things dry properly etc etc etc. It is a pretty rough job and I am a bit disappointed and embarrassed but as I said I want to try the rub n buff for the experience. I also needed some experience with using rattle cans (although eventually I will be using the airbrush) I also got some brush painting experience. I am also gathering a nice little set of brushes, paints, putty, glues masking tape and tools.
I have glued in the canopy using white glue and it appears to be ok.

PS I also learnt that plastic models are as precise as wooden ships (probably more so) and if you are a fraction out somewhere it carries on down the line and you have to sand or putty to make up for the error.
I am looking at my next model and think I will do a MIG as it was the adversary of the Sabre and they might look good together on my book shelf in my home office.
I read some interesting facts about the Sabre v. Mig and apparently the MIG was a superior plane but the USA pilots had it over the Korean pilots. Both great looking planes IMO.
Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
That's some adventure you had, and the model still survived. You certainly have the patients of a saint. I can assure you that if I dropped and broke off a wing on a model that I've done a MNF on, more then likely, it would be heading to the town landfill by now.

Using super thin liquid glue requires a different technique then tube or thicker glues. You need a near perfect fit of the parts, then you just lightly hold them together, and run a bead of glue from the brush along the seam a few inches at a time. Then Press for 30 seconds, and move on. I usually apply a 2nd application. Dropping a model can cause the best glued parts to snap off.

Using aerosol cans usually causes orange peel because they put out a tremendous amount of paint at a very high psi. You really need to keep the can moving along the model. I've gotten some good gloss paint jobs that way, but everyone needed to be rubbed out and polished for that smooth gloss finish. the problem is no where that bad with an air brush.

Hand painting on that clear finish from your boat days is something I've never done, but the end result is usually way to much clear that will fill all the recessed panel lines, making pin washes and highlighting those lines impossible to accomplish. In these cases, less is certainly the way to go.

Every coat of paint, has to completely dry before the next step, well usually. I will apply different colors air brushed one right over the other of the same type of paint for a camo scheme or special weathering effect.

And yes, Mig vs Sabre is part of the USAF folklore. Migs turned tighter, sabre had more power, and as you found out, nothing beats a USAAF or Navy pilot. They're that good.

As I've tried to advise you that in the long run you're much better off learning the standard basics we all learned, especially with respects to painting. Get your air brush, learn to use it from primer to color coats. to clear coats both before and after decaling, then simple yet effective weathering. In the long run, that's the right plan of action to take. Learning nitch procedures like Rub N Buff have their places, but they shouldn't be used as your standards.

As an example, this is Allcad 11 over their gloss black enamel base. the primer was lightly rubbed out, but not the Alcad 11. It was very easy to apply, easier then traditional paints.
Joel

Hi Joel, That photo is amazing. It looks like real metal.
I have completed the Sabre and uploaded pictures to Photobucket. You mentioned you would give me some hints on how to transfer all the URLs to the post

Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
Here's how I post pictures from Photobucket to Aeroscale. I don't bother with any of the tabs below the reply box as you just end up with an extra set of brackets you have to delete.

Before uploading your pictures to Photobucket, resize them to 1024 x 768, which is the max size that they will allow you to upload. Larger pictures are resized automatically by their compression program. You're much better off doing it yourself with a free program like PIXresizer which is freeware. I've been using it for a million years. Now upload those pictures.

Start your post in Aeroscale in one window. Open a 2nd window and go to Photobucket, then to your library and locate the pictures. Each picture has 4 boxes under it. The bottom one is IMG. Left click in the box to the right of the IMG, then right click and copy.

Now go back to the window with Aeroscale/your post. It will still be there, not a blank box as before. Left click your mouse to get your curser, and move it to where you want your 1st picture. I usually skip one line between print and picture. Info for the picture is usually above the picture. Then a space, next picture description. Then go back to the window with Photbucket and copy the IMG for the next picture. Etc.

You don't have to delete or move anything. You won't see the picture, only the URL link till you hit Update Post at the bottom of the reply box. I'm posting a picture from my Photobucket account that followed this exact procedure to a tee.

Joel

Hi Joel
Here are the photos (I hope). I had my first experience with apply decals. I tore my first one which was the large USAF . I had to improvise with another decal "United States Air Force" from the decal sheet which I used under the wing. The rest of the decaling went OK however some of them are so small (like a mosquito's eye ball). I used nearly all the usual decals for sabres and added the main ones for this particular kit. I made a lot of mistakes with this one but the learning experience was high. I think I will have to go a bit slower and be a bit more patient.
As I said before I might try the MIG 15. Tamiya has a clear version which I can get for bout $45 AUD from South Korea with free postage. The only other kit seems to be a Trumpeter kit. I saw a post on Model Madness sit where the modeler gave it a bit of a rubbish and said the build quality was poor and he didnt recommend it. Then I found another post on Fine Modelers web site that recommended the Trumpeter kit over the Tamiya. Very confusing. Anyway will give the Tamiya one a go as I have read a lot of positive things about their kits.

Regards

Laurie

Only one photo came down. Will give it another go

Hi Joel
As I mentioned above I am thinking of doing the Tamiya MIG 15 clear version. apparently you can do it in ordinary platic as well. I dont think it should be too difficult for my second build. I was thinking it might be too much like the Sabre and that perhaps I could try a more modern fighter. I was looking at the Tamiya F-16CJ Black 50 Fighting Falcon which I can get for a reasonable price from Hobbylinc Japan. But I had a look at a post in Model Madness and whilst it was given a good review it appears to be a bit too advanced for me at this stage. Have you a recommendation for an alternative to the MIG for my level of experience? I was also interested in the Mirage as it has an Australian interest as we bought them for a few years. Trouble was they kept on falling out of the sky in Australia. But they are a pretty good looking jet fighter


Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
Congrats on several accounts:
You finished your 1st model!!
You finished it in a NMF !!
And you mastered using Photobucket!!

Your F-86F(?) looks great. Not sure what type of camera you're using to take pictures, but you have a hot spot issue from the flash. It's an easy issue to solve, just cover the flash with a white tissue. It acts like a diffusor. I use that trick all the time besides exposure compensation.

Decaling issues. If you ended up damaging the large decals from constantly moving them, there is a few things you can do to make your life easier. 1st cover and work some of the water solution around the decal so it doesn't continue to stick to the surface. For large decals you can cut them in as many pieces as you like. For the USAF, you can cut out each letter individually, which also removes a lot of the clear decal film that can cause silvering. Just make sure that you have a piece of Tamiya type tape as a guide, or follow a panel line, so that all the individual pieces line up properly.

As for you next model, build what interests YOU! not necessarily what follows your last build. I still build almost 100% USN/USAF aircraft. You certainly will have a higher interest in Australian aircraft, which is a neat thing. If you need AM decals, so much the better. It's more fun that way.

I read plenty of reviews before I purchase a kit. But those reviews are from trusted sites and only certain people on each one. One person likes and one person dislikes, is very common.

About the only main companies I try to stay away from that seem to always have fit issues is Kinetic and Trumpeter. The newer kits from all manufactures are almost always better then their older offerings.

If you're looking for another jet, how about a F104 in Australian markings?

Joel

Hi Joel,
Thanks for the kind words of encouragement. I just had a look at the F104C. What a beautiful plane. I will take your advice and buy one.
I have found Modeling Madness very good for reviews. Here is a link to a review on the Hasegawa F 104 which is pretty positive.
Where would you get the Australian decals?

www.modelingmadness.com/review/viet/cleaver104c.htm

Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
That's one of the sites I go to for reviews to get me started on new project. As far as Australian decals, you'll have to start doing google searches, post here, and ask. I honestly don't have a clue. I do know that there are a few Canadian AM decal sheets in 1/48 scale.

If you decide go to Canadian, it's a CF-104 which I believe is based on the F-104 G, not the C version. Hasegawa does or did make that version with Canadian decals, and there are AM decals currently being produced. I think that Jessica even did a review on a set.

The Canadian CF-104s have a camo paint scheme, partial camo on top & NMF on the lower half, and I believe a all gray scheme as well.

Still concentrate on this kit for a perfect OOB build, then start to learn the very basics of weathering.

Joel

Hi Joel
I found this aircompressor on Ebay. Very good price. What do you think?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-6HP-Air-Compressor-Tank-Air-Brush-Spray-Gun-Nail-Art-Make-Up-Tattoo-/190408983945?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Model_Kits&hash=item2c55428589

Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
For the money it's a fantastic deal, especially with free shipping. Even with Shipping it sounds like a great deal.

Just do a few google searchers on the brand and model to make sure it's a good unit. You need to know if it has a automatic cut off for a full tank, and a auto low refill for a low tank limit. It should as there is a tank. It only has one psi gauge, but that's the one you need. The 2nd gauge on my system is for tank pressure so I know what's in the tank.

Joel

Hi Joel,
I did a bit of googling and could only find one review which was positive. Said it was also very quiet but got hot after a while. I saw a Youtube which said it was good and said he had heard it got hot but he didnt find that. He said it got warm but not hot. But I was thinking I am not going to have it on for extended periods like putting a fake tan on a very fat lady.

Here is another link which shows the features and I see it has an automatic cut off at 4 bars and cut in at 3 bars.

http://www.oo.com.au/Air-Brush-Compressor-for-Spray_P117577.cfm?AFID=10&cm_mmc=shoppingcom-_-HomeGardenPets-_-ToolsDIYAuto-_-HWASTANK&utm_source=shoppingcom&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=HWASTANK&cid=cm|net:shoppingcom|pct:HomeGardenPets|sc1:ToolsDIYAuto|sc2:CompressorsAirTools|sku:HWASTANK&CA_6C15C=1308765898

I have a small collection of Tamiya enamels and thinners, white blacks, greys, red, yellow and olive drab etc.
I found a place in Australia where I can buy Aclad paints. Can you suggest what Aclad products I should buy. I see polished aluminium etc.
I will also need to airbrush cleaners . I had a look through the following which was helpful. I think I might have drawn your attention to it previously

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home

I have ordered a couple of further kits. One is the Tamiya Mig (Clear version) and also the Starfighter 104C (?) from the site in Japan you put me onto. I also ordered another plane from Japan but they are out of stock at the moment and will advise when available so it looks like the Mig might be the next one onto the production line. Before starting that kit I intend to practice a bit on the airbrush and get a feel for it. Practice on a few plastic bottles etc.

BTW The other plane on back order from Japan is the Fighting Falcon. Here is the link

http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGV3

Regards

Laurie

BTW I know NY gets cold but the Gold Coast is freezing at the moment. There is a southern movement of air from the Antartic which is coming up the coast and the temperatures at night and in the morning are around 5 degrees. Not use to that on the Gold Coast. Got a terrible dose of the flue and everyone in the house is getting it

Laurie,
As you know, our seasons are completely opposite, so it's the height of summer here. But I can still feel for you and your family with those horrendous temps. And the Flu going through the house certainly causes havoc with ones life. Hope that you're feeling better.

Compressors by they very nature of work, a by product of that work is heat, so they will get warm to hot. That's why the cylinder sleeve has fins to help dissipate the heat.

I went through the features, and it's fine for your needs. My compressor is much larger as I bought it to do other functions around the house. The important ones is the min and max of the system. I'm familiar with that regulator, which is pretty much standard for hobbyists. You'll have no issues painting. When the time comes I'll explain the differences between static tank pressure, and line flow pressure, both set from that one valve. The most important one is the line flow psi. Most people get them mixed up or don't even realize that there is a drop in psi when the air flows. You'll be painting with a flow line psi from 18 max to as low as 5 psi with perfect results. Type of paint and thinning ratios come into play here. Again, not a big issue to learn the basics.

The big black knob on top of the regulator controls both the static and flow psi levels. Each compressor has a certain fixed ratio, and it never changes. Mine is a difference of 10 psi.

the red release valve on the side of the tank does two things, 1st it lets you release the unused compressed air after a paint session. Never leave the tank with compressed air in it. And 2nd if the compressor male functions and just keeps on running, it will open up when it reaches the max psi of the tank so it doesn't blow.

On the bottom is a stop cock valve. Every so often depending on how much you use your compressor, you open it up and drain the tank of the condensed water vapor. 90% of the moisture in the air ends up down there, not in the regulator trap. You drain it by filling the tank with compressed air, then open it. The compressed air forces out most of the water. It always comes out rusty, so you can see why these tanks eventually leak as they're steel not aluminum.

On the bottom of the moisture trap is a spring valve. When the bottle starts to fill with moisture, just press the value, have compressed air in the tank and it will force out the water vapor. You shouldn't have much as most of it settles to the bottom of the tank. I removed my moisture trap years ago as I just never needed it. But my house is temp controlled, so humidity is never an issue.

The min/max is already preset. You manually turn on the compressor to start the fill. It will fill to 57 psi and shut off. It goes back on at 43 psi, which is not a large difference, so your compressor will be running a lot during a paint session. As an example my Max is 140 psi and it turns on 70 psi. My tank is much larger then yours, so the numbers vary. The main thing to keep in mind is that you can air brush when it's running. You will not get pulsed air, you get the condensed smooth flow from the tank. That's the important issue.

Now which airbrush and type did you get or are getting? I've been using since the early 1970's a Paasche-H, which is a single action, external mix unit. Much easier to clean and use. I can do everything with it, that most people can do with a duel action internal mix gun.

Joel

Laurie,
I left the actual model/modeling as a separate post. As I mentioned the last time about models, just buy what you're interested in. Since you're a 1/48 builder like me, and seem to like 1st and 2nd generation jets, much of those eras are being produced now. Before you buy any kit, Google build reviews, and read them. Modeling Madness, CyberModeler, and Hyperscale, are the main ones I use. Spend a little time on their sites and you'll find a wealth of information on kits and the real aircraft as well. You'll also see a lot of builds and reviews form Aeroscale and ARC. Now that you have the information needed, you can pick model and manufacture.

One thing I always do when I buy a model is make sure I have everything I need for the build. All paints, AM parts if needed, and AM decals if I need to or choose to go that route. After a while, you'll have the basic colors you need if you're like me, and tend to build same country, same era a lot. It's when you change that you need to double check everything, especially if you need to order online.

I also spend quite a lot of time gathering pictures and info online and from other resources, so have everything I need, and have worked out my game plan. Even OOB builds have a game plan per kit.

I'm not a big fan of Hasegawa, but that's a personal preference on my part. Their kits are generally more expensive. Just do your homework on the kits you're interested in, so that there are no big surprises.

Joel

Hi Joel
Thanks for all that info about the compressor. I waited till my wife was in a real good deal and talking about getting a new rug so I mentioned the air compressor and said I would buy the rug. Diplomacy Diplomacy Diplomacy. So I suppose the aircompressor wasnt that cheap after all. Anyhow I have a Paasche H brush waiting to go. I have learnt how to take apart the cones and needles and looking forward to doing a few exercises with it when the compressor arrives. I will also buy some Alclad paints and should be ready for the MIG and F104C.
One thing I did recall seeing on the Youtube about the compressor was it had a few airleaks and the guy on the video was using some of that plastic tape to wrap around the thread on a few areas.

Fingers frozen now so speak to you later

Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
Been using that Diplomacy tactic myself of late, but the results haven't been as good as yours. New carpet and furniture for the den, my half of the deal was that I got to pay for both

I'll get you up and running with the Paasche-H in no time. It's very easy to use, and just as easy to maintain, rip down, clean, and rebuild. Did you get the kit with the 3 needle, cones, and tips?

The plumbers tape is used for air and water leaks.

For starters with the Alcad II colors, Aluminum 101 is your go to base color. For panel variations White Aluminum 106, Dark Aluminum 103, and Steel 115 for exhaust areas. Mix for even more variation of colors. I have 4 other colors, but I buy them as I need a specific color. I use their Black Gloss primer which isn't lacquer based, it's enamel based. Already thinned as well. Works great. I do seal my Alcads with their Gloss Klear Kote. You can mask Alcad. I use Tamiya tape after I apply it to my forearm to help detack it.

Joel

Hi Joel,
Yes I have the Paasche kit with three needles and airhose and a couple of bottles and a cup. I can buy the Alclad in Australia but it is dear #13.50-$14.00 for a bottle. I will try and get the base one and the undercoat and clear coat. (excuse my Aussie spelling) I have that Tamiya masking tape from my boatbuilding. You use it when you are painting plimsoll lines and gunwhale lines around the top.It was good as it didnt lift the paint underneath when taken off. I like your tip of making it less tacky by sticking it to your skin.
I would appreciate some cleaning tips and what solvents etc to use.

BTW: Funny how women assume they are in control. Who made that rule?. Seems to be present in the animal world also. I just go with the flow. Peace in the house is much better for your blood pressure

Regards

Laurie