I am still waiting for my kit to arrive. In the meantime I have been thinking about the painting of this model. I want to get a metallic finish. I dont have an airbrush as yet so after doing some research I thought I would use some Tamiya BMF spray can paint. However someone suggested on this forum a product called RubNbuff. I again did a lot of research with conflicting results. Many says it creates a metallic finish that you cant get from paints (probably other than Alclad) But there appears to be some drawbacks such as it doesnt lend itself to handling although others says if you buff it long enough and allow it to cure it will be ok. However it is a wax based product. I live in a pretty warm climate and I am not sure what would be the longterm result.
I then thought the answer would be to seal it. Many articles said you definately cant seal it. Some said you can with an acrylic clear sealant. I contacted the manufacturer and they said yes you can seal it. So before applying it to the model I decided I would test it myself. I am on my way down to Masters store where I can buy some RubnBuff Silver leaf finish. I will also buy some acrylic sealant.
In my readings there were also some opinions expressed that the best finish was obtained by applying RubnBuff over a black gloss undercoat. I thought that might be difficult for the RubNBuff to adhere to So I decided to conduct three tests. I found three plastic tops from some spray cans. I sprayed one with a gloss black enamel. The other I sprayed with a black matt enamel. The third I just applied a standard grey primer. When they dry I will apply the RubnBuff to each surface and buff it and leave it for a couple of weeks. I will see which one has the best metallic effect. Then I will spray each with the lacquer clear and see what the result is. Hopefully by this time my model will have arrived and I will be able to make my final decision. I am sure the Sabre is on a slow junk from Korea.
I will take some photos of the results and post them here shortly and then start my build log. It might be a low one as I have a few things on my plate at the moment and wont have the time to knock it over quick.

Since Rub'n Buff is a wax, it tends to eat enamels. You're better off to apply it over an acryllic rather than an enamel.

Thanks for that info Jesse. If it takes a bit of time for that reaction I will continue with the enamel but if it is quick than I will put some acrylic over the enamel I have on the plastic can lids.

Laurie,
1st you need to build and prepare your F-86-30 for painting. By that I mean that you've sealed any filler such as Green Stuff or Bondo with Super glue. After the glue dries I sand it with #320 then #600, and brush on a coat of Mr. Sealer 1,000. You will see every imperfection. Each should be dealt with, then tested for again. Once you're satisfied with the seams, you need to polish every seam, and as much of the model as possible. I use polishing pads from 4,000 to 12,000 applied wet. Then wiped down with Iso Alcohol. The surface is now ready for priming.

Since you're going to be using Tamiya rattle cans and not Alcad 11 or Model Master Metalizers, you don't have to prime. The Tamiya cans are synthetic lacquer, and will adhere very well to raw plastic. With Alcads, the gloss black primer is what gives the NMF that mile deep look. The primer has to be smooth as silk as well. I really don't know If it makes any difference with the Tamiya rattle cans as they put out so much paint.

For the best results hopefully you can insert some type of stick or holder into the exhaust so you can fully rotate the model. Paint in light even coats across the model without stopping. Slowly rotate the model a little for each pass. That way you will build up the paint slowly and evenly. When I use a rattle can, I hold it about a foot away from the model surface.

Since the paint is lacquer based it will dry to the touch very quickly. But it needs to dry from the bottom to the top. 3-5 days will do the trick.

Once dry, you now have to polish out the paint till it's smooth. you can use the same polishing pads wet, but go real easy as they will take off paint quickly. Personally, I use car polishing compound, not rubbing compound. Applied wet, in small amounts, and in a circular motion very lightly. Watch out for high spots and sharp edges as you will remove the paint from them before you know it. Rub, clean, test with your finger often.

Once you have the finish you're looking for, you should be able to decal directly over the finish. Personally, I seal my Alcad finishes before decaling with their gloss sealer. But since you are using a rattle can, Model Master has both Glosscoat and Dullcoat (both lacquer based) in rattle cans. I also seal the decals when dry with a coat of Glosscoat.

Not sealing decals will eventually led them to yellowing, especially the clear film. There is no repairing that.

Joel

Hi Laurie - I saw an F-86 flying a couple of weeks ago at Duxford, the first time I've ever seen one outside of a museum exhibition. It turns out that the aircraft was making final preparations for the coming Airshow season over here, so in effect, I had a private display. I was road testing a new camera, and got some great shots - check these out!






I hope these are useful to you. Cheers!

Lee,
Nice pictures. Talk about a wax job. That's basically a museum finish.
Joel

Great photos. I just love the look of the Sabres and the Migs.
I have now done some testing on the RubnBuff Silver Leaf. The first lesson learnt with this stuff is that it goes a long way. The tube is only about the size of your little finger but it states on the side that the tube will cover 20 square feet. Wow. My first application was too thick and it wouldnt buff. It seemed to set very quickly. I then learnt that you apply the smallest amount for the best results and it spreads very well. I applied it directly to a very shiny plastic top of an aerosol can which I had washed in warm soapy water. It adhered beautifully and came up very smooth and shiny with a slight grainy look which I imagine comes from the silver metellic dust or whatever they add to the canaubra wax. The colour is a bit like shiny aluminium. I think it would look beautiful on the Sabre (perhaps not realistic unless it was a refurbished Sabre) The finish is depicted in the picture below. The coat applied directly to the shiny coat on the side is the second cap from left to right. The left cap was a plastic cap that wasnt shiny but had a dull surface. I applied one coat of matt black enamel (Dupli Colour) Again the result was very similar. Just a little more grainier and not quiet as smooth. I have another can top which I have sprayed with black gloss enamel. It is not dry yet so I will post later.
As I said I am very impressed by this product and the look however my major concern is how it will last. The shiny finish is susceptible to finger prints if you touch it. I note sure if the surface will cure and get harder. I will leave it for a week and see if there is any change. My research as to sealing it was mixed. Some, including the manufacturer said yes it can be sealed with an acrylic sealer. Others swore that if you try to seal it it dulls the finish. I purchased a can of Minwax Water Based Polycrylic Protective Finish clear gloss. I will apply a coat on the can lids after a few days and see what happens.

I just tried to upload two photos of the can lids and the following message came up: "The category you chose for this photo can't contain photos"

Here is the link to the photo

Dont worry about my lastd question about the photos. I have found the post about how to do this and will give it a go. Hopefully I will have some photos up shortly

Thanks Joel,
I am just experimenting with this RubnBuff as an alternative to the rattle cans.
Are these the right polishing sheets you referred to:
http://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/soft-touch-pad-2-x-2-micro-mesh-kit.html
What is Mr. Sealer 1000. Are there any other equivalents as I am not sure I can get that in Australia. Also is this the type of polishing compound you are talking about

http://www.meguiars.com.au/products/car-care/paint-care/surface-prep/classic-polishing-compund/

So you cover any filler you have applied with superglue. How do you do that before it dries. Or do you use the gel type that gives you a bit more time? Do you spread it with a toothpick or something?

I applied the Minwax Water Based Polycrylic clear gloss to the rubnbuff on the plastic can lid on the right. Bit of beading occurred probably due to the rubnbuff being a wax but it appears to be adhering and giving a good finish so far.
I applied a Matt Varnish Polyurethane water based sealer over the top lid of the one on the left. I didnt have a gloss varnish but again there didnt appear to be any adverse reaction and it took well although I am not sure of the matte finish. Maybe a satin finish would be better. I will sit back and see what happens to the finish over the next few days

Lauri,
Yes to the polishing pad set, although it has more sizes then the one I bought years ago. They literally last forever. You can also get Micromesh polishing cloths which I'll be getting also, as you can polish more complex convex and concave surfaces.

As for the polishing compound, I use that and one from Turtle Wax because I use them on my cars. I'm a car fanatic, gee what a surprise.

Applying any gloss or mat coating on top of a carnauba waxed and buffed surface is not recommended, as the wax tries to repel it. That's what wax does. You polish then wax a car finish. Same with model finishes.

You can use the polishing compound to smooth out the aerosol paints, then seal to decal, then seal the decals. If your finish is smooth enough, you don't have to apply a gloss coat prior to decaling, but I always seal afterwards. I use Alcad 11's Gloss Klear Kote only on NMFs, everything else gets either Pledge or Glosscoat as a before and after sealer. You can use the higher micro mesh cloths/pads to really buff up those clear gloss finishes. Just go easy.

Take a little time and do a few Google searches for model car finishes, even on Utube. You'll be amazed at what their finishes look like. Just wear sunglasses, and look at your own risk.

Joel

Hi Joel.
This rubnbuff is wax based and I am not sure why the clear coat seems to be taking to it. Maybe it is the metallic content. Anyway time will tell. I read where English modelers have been using it successfully for years.
I too love polishing cars. I used to only use Meguiar and had the three system pack where you rub the surface with a type of plasticine and then polish and then wax.
Here is a photo of my Subaru Liberty GT

Well my Sabre arrived today. I must have got confused over which model I purchased as it is the Italeri Sky Blazers model. I remember I look at so many. Anyway it will do for my first one. Instructions are pretty basis. Mainly diagrams and numbers. Looks fairly basic. Decal instrument panel and no pilot. But the parts so far look ok to me I did a dry fit of the two fuselage sections and they seem to match up pretty well. The box was in a larger light cardboard box which was a bit crushed on the top. Some of the parts had come away from the sprue but no damage. I think I have heard some of these ebay sellers can be a bit hit and miss with the packaging. I think for this one I am going to use the RubnBuff and I will seal it. I am interested in the product and as it is not an expensive model it might be ok to experiment with. You can remove the rubnbuff with acetone if there is a disaster.` I purchased a 10 bottle set of paints from China. I chose various colours I thought might be commonly used and then I got an email from the Chinese firm saying they ran out of black gloss and red gloss and to pick some new ones so I picked another colour and they didnt have that. At least they are corresponding but it is a bit annoying as the English is poor and you get a bit wary of their reliability. I will take some pictures of the box, sprue and decals and post in the morning. I will also take a close up of the panel lines and I am not sure if they need scribing as it is my first one. the rubnbuff is pretty thin and the acrylic sealer should also be thin. I read forward on the instructions and you have to put a 20 gram weight in the nose. I suppose a fishing sinker would do the trick. Do you usually beat it out with a hammer so it will fit snug in the nose cone and fix it with a bit of super glue?. There are some very small decals which could be tricky to move into place. Seems like a good starter kit. Next I will do a scratch build flying fortress (only kidding).

Laurie,
Thought you settled on the Academy F-86-30, the Italeri kit is a re-box of the ESCI F-86E kit. Passed that, I know next to nothing about the kit, so I did a Google search and read a few reviews from two trusted sites. Depending on just how accurate you want your model to be, you need to pay attention to which markings you use from the decals (which are by Cartograf), as they contain various versions of the F-86 that aren't E's. The good news is that the kit does build up into a nice model right out of the box. It does have some accuracy issues, but it looks like a "e" with the correct wing. The cockpit is rather basic by todays standards but I would just add seat belts and harness, and let it go at that. You have more then enough already on your plate for your 1st build.

The paint set deal doesn't sound like they have what you need. Don't settle for colors that you don't need for this build.

Looking forward to following your 1st build.

BTW, your new avatar, or any avatar is no longer there?

That's really a well cared for Subaru Liberty GT. I too use almost all Meguiar car products. Here's a picture of my latest love, a 2014 Hyundai Elantra Coupe.

Joel

Hi Joel. Nice looking car. Unfortunately white doesnt show the shine as good as black. I am a bit hog tied with the build till I get my paint but I can assemble the wings. The instructions provide for the attaching of a small rib on the top front of the wing. I dont like the idea and could see it easily getting knocked off. Also it seems to distract from the smooth lines of the wing. I did some research and couldnt find the same rib on the sabre. See this link (ignore the photos of the female pilots with those large front facing cannons) Also have a look at how could that chrome painted Sabre looks WOW!
http://thebrigade.thechive.com/2012/06/26/f-86-sabre-and-friends-in-high-res-23-hq-photos/
Hopefully I can attach a photo of the rib and wing and also of the box and decals. Having a bit of trouble working out how to move photos from my gallery to these posts. Bit different to the boat building forum I was a member of

I just noticed that Lee James' photos above have the rib on the wing. I think I will leave it off anyway

I just found out that I was even luckier to have got the Sabre photos when I did, because It will be going back home to the US very soon.

http://www.goldenappleoperations.org/Default.aspx

According to this link, this particular Sabre is believed to be the oldest jet still flying. I had heard there is a ME-262 still doing the rounds at airshows, but maybe that is a reproduction?

Edit - Laurie, re your last post. Your kit is of an F-86F, and the one in my photos is an F-86A. Maybe this explains the wing fence?

Laurie,
The Italeri kit you have is the old ESCI F-86E kit, with the larger 6-3 wing. The small slat which is supposed to help with airflow. Here's one real picture of an E and a line drawing from a trusted site that specializes in these reference drawings:





You'll also notice that the pilot is none other then Col. Francis Gabby Gabreski

So I would certainly build up the wing with those slats, unless you have photos of E's without them. Keep in mind that this isn't the most common version of the F-86, so you need to know what that version looks like before making those kind of decisions to leave parts off or add parts.

From Wikipedia:
F-89E
Improved flight control system and an "all-flying tail" (This system changed to a full power-operated control with an "artificial feel" built into the aircraft's controls to give the pilot forces on the stick that were still conventional, but light enough for superior combat control. It improved high-speed maneuverability); 456 built

F-86F
Uprated engine and larger "6–3" wing without leading edge slats, 2,239 built

Joel

Hi All, Fitted that strat. Very fiddly. Waiting for paint to proceed further but just looking at decal sheet and noticed some of the decals (Identification number on side and ors) were partly obliterated by the number of the decal. See the attached photo. What is happening here? Will the hidden part appear when soaked and the number come away?

Laurie,
The decals are made that way so you don't have to cut them as they go on separate parts like dive brakes in the open position, or across those slats. As an example decal #11 is the bottom part of the #5 on decal #12.

Joel

Laurie,
Are you planning on doing the Skyblazer version?

Joel

Hi Joel. Thanks for that explanation. I can see it now.
I am going to use the following decal plan:


I have two questions for you.
In one of your posts you mentioned using Sealer 1000 to detect imperfections before painting. We dont have that in Australia and not sure of what would do as a substitute. Would just a brushed on light grey acrylic gloss work. I imagine you would then repair or rub back any imperfections found and then would you rub back the acrylic gloss also to get back to the base plastic?
Also the instructions call for a 20 gram weight to be put in the nose. I can understand why (so plane doesnt sit on its tail). I found a 18gram bean sinker. But its shape is a bit tricky to fit . It sits just behind that front panel that is just behind the nose of the plane. Difficult to glue so I thought if you put in some blue tack that would make it easier. What do you think

Laurie,
Those decals are for a F-86F not an E. The difference is which wing or wings comes with the kit. The original Italeri release is a E, but the kit you have is marked as an F. The wing has slightly different proportions, and there is no leading edge slat nor fence. If you have to remove those fences, it's a quick and easy fix.

I use Mr. Primer Surfacer 1000 that I hand paint over all the seams. When dry you just 600 sand, and any imperfections show up. I deal with them with Super Glue, then check again. Tamiya gray primer also works. And yes, you can use Acrylic flat gray paint, but it's thicker straight out of the bottle, and doesn't fill small imperfections as well.

I glue my weights in with Super Glue. You can use Blu Tack to hold it in place, but over the course of time you don't want the weight coming loose. You can get small round lead weights that is used for fresh water fishing from any fishing store. That's the best way to go.

Joel

Well a few bits and pieces have arrived including the airbrush but I now have to wait a while to get the compressor. Biggest problem with that is convincing the Sergeant Major that I need an air compressor in my office. Anyway got a few odd Tamiya enamels, thinners, some abrasives and sanding pads, glue etc.
start assembly and was using Mr. Cement S as the glue. At first I just applied it to the insides and then brought them together. No adhesive at all. Did some googling and on a youtube found a guy who told me how to use it. Join the parts and paint the cement on the join which apparently sucks in the glue by way of a capillary response. Seemed to work OK however I am not that happy as I have found that some things are coming apart if you happen to put a bit of pressure on them. I think I might try another way. Not Super Glue but perhaps some plastic glue.
Parts have been going together pretty well. A few problems getting in the pilots seat but all ok.
One thing I did bring with me from my model ship building experience is the importance of reading ahead with the instructions. That helped me avoid a few problems.
I decided to use the rub n buff with this model to get experience with it on this inexpensive model. Later models will probably use the airbrush.
I sanded the surface of the Sabre with very fine sandpaper and then very fine pads for ages and thought it was all fine. Had to apply a bit of putty to where the wing joined the fuselage and sanded it back. I didnt see some scratch marks it left and made a mistake in not following Joel's advice about applying a gloss to pick up the marks. As he said the BMF really show up surface imperfections. Anyway another lesson learnt.
Rub n Buff went on great. Secret with it is to use it very sparingly and I mean very sparingly. If you get too much it tends to set and shows lumps. It dries very quick. The heat of your finger spreads and sets it. The other problem with the rub n buff is that it is susceptible to finger print marks when handling. Once it is sealed (I hope the sealer works as well as it did on the plastic cap I practised on?)
The effect is very metallic but not as perfect as paint. However On looking at a lot of picture of the Sabres on the ground the finish was far from perfect and therefore the model looks realistic. Well that is my way of overlooking my preparation mistakes.
All that said the rub n buff doesnt lend easily to re doing. You have to take it off with thinners and re apply and it doesnt work that well if you have to do that. Not sure that I will use it again especially when I get the airbrush up and going and use the Aclad paints.
I am just waiting for the rub n buff to set a bit and I will seal it. I will then apply the decals and reseal..

My first observation is that the working with plastic models is not as easy as I thought it would be. Model ship building and the planking was very difficult and precise but timber can be sanded and moulded a lot more easier than plastic and the painting is not a big issue in most boats. It was just applying a satin laquer to decks and sometimes a satin colour finish to the hull. Imperfection in the surface werent such an issue as they are with these plastic plane models.
Really enjoying this first build and learning a lot already.
Can I get a bit of input about the alternative glues to the Mr. Cement S type glues as I am not that happy with it.

Laurie,
Glad to see you're working on your F-86.

As you found out every little scratch will show through a NMF. You didn't mention if you used a base coat with the rub N Buff? I've never used it, so I won't comment on how effective of a finish you'll get, but being a wax base can and will cause issues. Wax prevents anything sticking to itself, so the surface stays smooth. I'm thinking more along the lines of car wax. The more coats you apply, the shinier, and the more slippery the surface becomes.

I have my concerns if any clear coat will properly adhere to it, whether lacquer based (Tamiya or Testors aerosol rattle cans), or an acrylic clear coat (a non model product from a home improvement center). Clear coats will change the appearance of the NMF. Alcad 11, Model Master Metalizers can be decaled on them, and the sealing before and after issue is up to you. I seal both before and after with Alcad 11 clear sealer, while my brother doesn't.

If the clear coat adheres to it, then you can decal without any issues. If it doesn't, there is a major issue. And if you decide to decal right on top of it, decals won't stick to wax, they'll lift, and you'll end up with the dreaded silvering issue or worse.

As for Mr Cement S glue, I've never used it. If it's a super thin glue like Tamiya's Extra thin, you can apply it in several ways depending on the part. For large parts, I just matte the surfaces together applying the slightest of pressure. Tilting the part so that the glue will run down the seam, I apply a loaded brush stroke of a inch or two at a time, then squeeze the parts together and hold it for 15-30 seconds. Then I do the next few inches. I work my way around the model. For major seams, I follow this up by brushing on a finishing coat of glue. Clamp, tape, rubber band, etc. and let dry for a few hours to overnight depending on what I'm gluing and how much glue I used. For small parts I apply the glue right on the part, then bond the two pieces together. If the fit isn't perfect, work on it so that the surfaces matte correctly. I'll use the next step thicker glue which is like a gel if there is a gap issue, or I need to control where the glue goes. Not all glues do everything well. Super Glues doesn't melt the plastic, it just holds both pieces together. One last point,you need to make sure that there is enough glue flowing from the brush into the seams.

Working with plastic is completely different then working with wood. Once you get the hang of it, it becomes 2nd nature

Joel