World War II: Japan
Aircraft of Japan in WWII.
Hosted by Rowan Baylis
1/32 Hasegawa J2M3 Raiden
Merlin
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Posted: Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 08:10 AM UTC
Hi Robert

Nice job!

I guess the only thing I'd say is that, if I was weathering the main paintwork and Hinomarus to that extent, I'd knock back the white outlines too so they don't stand out too pure and fresh. If you've still got the masks to hand, I'd do a thin and patchy coat of off-grey over them...

All the best

Rowan
berndm
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Posted: Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 04:04 PM UTC
Hi Robert, i have followed your build all the time and everything said before is right, a very nice build on a great kit.
These Finemolds seatbelts are a sound idea and these masks are as well, a good inspiration to start my KI-84 ( yes, thats an army type )

Bernd
surgeon01
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2014 - 06:47 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Robert

Nice job!

I guess the only thing I'd say is that, if I was weathering the main paintwork and Hinomarus to that extent, I'd knock back the white outlines too so they don't stand out too pure and fresh. If you've still got the masks to hand, I'd do a thin and patchy coat of off-grey over them...

All the best

Rowan



Hi Rowan,
yes you're right, at the moment the white stands out a little bit. I will see what to do with it in the next stages. I'm not sure how far to go with weathering but I didn't planned to show all the metal under the paint. Thanks for your interest.
kind regards ro
surgeon01
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Posted: Friday, July 18, 2014 - 06:50 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Robert, i have followed your build all the time and everything said before is right, a very nice build on a great kit.
These Finemolds seatbelts are a sound idea and these masks are as well, a good inspiration to start my KI-84 ( yes, thats an army type )

Bernd



Hi Bernd,
thanks a lot for your kind reply, it's really a nice kit and so I enjoy every minute during the build. Looking forward to your KI-84. Btw. your redone Me 109 also looks great.
greetings ro
surgeon01
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Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2014 - 01:42 AM UTC
Hi there,
just a quick update from the Raiden. I finished the paintwork on the yellow leading edges and the marks on the tail. The ones for the tail came with Mal's masks.
greetings ro















berndm
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Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2014 - 03:15 AM UTC
Hi Robert, very nice paintwork with a pronounced shading, still
enjoying the "show"
This scale has the perfect size for WW II fighters.

Bernd
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Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2014 - 10:36 AM UTC
Robert,
Your camo paint scheme really looks quite good.
Joel
Holdfast
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Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2014 - 07:17 PM UTC
I love the painting and particularly the painted on markings, of course I agree with Rowan that the white should be knocked back a little.

It is quite difficult to align one of the spare masks but wetting the surface allows the masks to slide. This works well on a gloss surface but I did do it when I repositioned the Hinomaru on the fuselage of my Jet Shinden, to mask them out to paint on the lightning flash, so it will work over none gloss surfaces. The problem is that you need to get the masks positioned very accurately otherwise even the slightest miss alignment will show.

Something else to watch out for if you do this is that the adhesive seems to be a little tackier, so I would de-tack the masks a little. Wetting doesn't seem to have any detrimental effect on the adhesive though, but do try it out on a spare part though, before committing to the model!

You may find it easier to use very well thinned paint and a hairy stick? I've also used this method for touch ups it it also works well
surgeon01
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Posted: Sunday, July 20, 2014 - 09:24 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Robert, very nice paintwork with a pronounced shading, still
enjoying the "show"
This scale has the perfect size for WW II fighters.

Bernd



Hi Bernd,
thanks again for regularly stopping by. You're right the 1/32 scale is stunning. Problem is where to put them after they are finished
greetings ro
surgeon01
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Posted: Sunday, July 20, 2014 - 09:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Robert,
Your camo paint scheme really looks quite good.
Joel



Thanks Joel.
greetings ro
surgeon01
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Posted: Sunday, July 20, 2014 - 09:31 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I love the painting and particularly the painted on markings, of course I agree with Rowan that the white should be knocked back a little.

It is quite difficult to align one of the spare masks but wetting the surface allows the masks to slide. This works well on a gloss surface but I did do it when I repositioned the Hinomaru on the fuselage of my Jet Shinden, to mask them out to paint on the lightning flash, so it will work over none gloss surfaces. The problem is that you need to get the masks positioned very accurately otherwise even the slightest miss alignment will show.

Something else to watch out for if you do this is that the adhesive seems to be a little tackier, so I would de-tack the masks a little. Wetting doesn't seem to have any detrimental effect on the adhesive though, but do try it out on a spare part though, before committing to the model!

You may find it easier to use very well thinned paint and a hairy stick? I've also used this method for touch ups it it also works well



Hi Mal,
thank you so much for the advices and tips using your masks. The idea of wetting the surface for better aligning the masks sounds great. Although until now I had no problems in using the masks.
The problem I have at the moment is to paint the yellow stripe (band) on the rear fuselage. Due to the round shape I find it very difficult to get a good result
Maybe you have the right idea?
kind regards ro
Holdfast
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Posted: Monday, July 21, 2014 - 06:30 PM UTC

Quoted Text

The problem I have at the moment is to paint the yellow stripe (band) on the rear fuselage. Due to the round shape I find it very difficult to get a good result
Maybe you have the right idea?
kind regards ro



To paint a band around a compound curve is simple using Kubaki type tape (Tamiya type tape):
1. Cut thin strips of tape, as thin as is practicable. Always use a cut edge to the side which is to be painted (an original edge is likely to have bits adhering to it.
2. Carefully wrap one piece of tape around the fuselage, using the Mk 1 eyeball to keep it straight.
3. Determine the width of the band and set this on a pair of dividers.
4. Lay a second strip of tape on the fuselage, using the dividers to determine the distance from the first strip.
5. Continue around the fuselage using the dividers at regular intervals to check the distance. Again use the Mk 1 eyeball to confirm that the second strip is straight.
6. When both strips are in position use wider strips of tape to mask away from them, to prevent over spray. Because these strips will be wider they must be shorter and done in sections.
7. Paint the band and when the paint is dry remove the masking The tendency when painting colours such as yellow and white is to apply the paint far too thickly, especially over darker colours. This is not necessary but if you do use a sharp blade to cut the paint along the masking edge otherwise the paint will end up with a ragged edge.

Because the strips are thin they will easily conform to the compound curve of the fuselage, the trick is to get the first one vertical and in a consistent position around the fuselage; so take you time and check it constantly as you go. You will know that it is accurate if when you come back around to the start the 2 ends overlap perfectly, without being forced. Check and double check that the strip doesn't deviate as it goes around the fuselage and, if it does, lift it and reapply that section.

If you have a thin ban to apply, say on a spinner, then cut a thin strip of tape to the correct width, see my Spitfire build on how to make a simple parallel cutter Spitfire build
You can either paint the band colour first, apply the masking strip, then paint the other colour or,paint the main colour first apply the masking strip, as 2 above. Lay a strip of tape on either side of the first, then remove the first and mask away from the 2 remaining pieces and paint; works every time
surgeon01
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Posted: Monday, July 21, 2014 - 08:54 PM UTC
Hi Mal,
thanks a lot for explaining how to go for the fuselage band. Great tips. Just now I'm recalibrating my MKI eyeball and get the Kabuki tape out of the box ... Pics will follow later, I'm on duty for the whole week, so not much time to get things done.
It's a nice feeling to get feedback like critics or helpful tips to improve our work ... So again many thanks for that.
greetings ro
surgeon01
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Posted: Tuesday, July 22, 2014 - 10:32 PM UTC
Hi to all,
as yesterday said I took out my Kabuki Tape and started to get the yellow fuselage band done. On the following pics you can see the result. It's far away from being perfect but I can live with it. I know there are a lot of you who get much better results, hopefully doing it more often shows a learning curve.
I added two more pics with the engine, remember with the cowling it's completely hidden.
The last shot I did after unmasking and found three yellow spots


Thanks for looking,
happy modeling ro


















berndm
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Posted: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 - 12:09 AM UTC
Hi Robert, a fuselage from an aircraft is a complex shaped
construction, designers know it and modellers too ;-)
I am painting these bands, stripes first and mask it, then i
apply the camo,it works (sometimes)
I guess your Raiden will be look great as your others.
All the Best

Bernd

JPTRR
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Posted: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 - 08:47 AM UTC
Your Raiden is progressing wonderfully!

I gotta get me some of Mal's masks.
Holdfast
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Posted: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 - 06:02 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I gotta get me some of Mal's masks.



You are not the only one Fred I need some too. I have closed the fuselage on my Raiden and I am just working on the glazing. I really ought to post some pics!

Rob, not perfect but a very good attempt. You really do need to be ultra critical when you do this. Although the Mk1 eyeball can be very accurate you need to be aware that you need to see any deviation in the distance between the first and second piece. You can see this on many models where two strips of masking tape need to be laid down to a similar relative position from, say, starting points on either side of a fuselage. The thing is that in real life it probably wouldn't be absolutely 100% accurate

Your Raiden is looking really good, nice one
berndm
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Posted: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 - 06:44 PM UTC
Hi Robert, a good idea to make a picture of this beautiful
engine.

Bernd
surgeon01
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Posted: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 - 10:35 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Robert, a fuselage from an aircraft is a complex shaped
construction, designers know it and modellers too ;-)
I am painting these bands, stripes first and mask it, then i
apply the camo,it works (sometimes)
I guess your Raiden will be look great as your others.
All the Best

Bernd




Hi Bernd,
I can only agree about the complex rounded shape of the fuselage.
greetings ro
surgeon01
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Posted: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 - 10:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Your Raiden is progressing wonderfully!

I gotta get me some of Mal's masks.



Thanks a lot, you should definitely try them, they are well worth the money.
greetings ro
surgeon01
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Posted: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 - 10:51 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Rob, not perfect but a very good attempt. You really do need to be ultra critical when you do this. Although the Mk1 eyeball can be very accurate you need to be aware that you need to see any deviation in the distance between the first and second piece. You can see this on many models where two strips of masking tape need to be laid down to a similar relative position from, say, starting points on either side of a fuselage. The thing is that in real life it probably wouldn't be absolutely 100% accurate



Hi Mal,
thank you for your kind words. I'm planning to do some exercises on an old model to improve this.
I think you're right, in real life it wasn't 100% accurate. But the more critical I am, the more I see my inaccuracies (don't know if this is correct English?).
kind regards, ro
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, July 24, 2014 - 12:34 AM UTC
Robert,
Your wing leading edge fuselage bands really came out more then just satisfactory. Nicely done.

I've struggled with masking, or even applying decals over compound curves. The issue is that as the tape goes over the spine it tries to does so in a curved manner, not straight like up an down the sides. What I've tried on a few occasions was to use some wider Tamiya tape to bridge the gap across the spine by cutting a slight curve shape to it. The side with the convex curve faces in on the high side, and the matching concave curve faces in on the low side. You just want to make the length of these pieces to bridge the spine, then use straight pieces for the sides.

Another solution, but one that I've never tried is vinyl tape which you can get at a good art supply shore. The tape stretches so you can make it curve as needed.

Joel

goodn8
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Posted: Friday, July 25, 2014 - 02:24 AM UTC
Hey friend!

Followed up your build since starting - very good progress of building and painting. Like the colour effects and especially the painted markings. Those masks seem to be a good value. Looks like hard to manage the yellow band, but finally you made it.
As far as I know you, it's hard to believe your patience abut this kit - i.e. never seen you "puttying" something or handle inaccuracies while the progress without loosing your mood
So please, keep on until showing us the finally done "Jack"

Cheers
surgeon01
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Posted: Saturday, July 26, 2014 - 09:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

As far as I know you, it's hard to believe your patience abut this kit - i.e. never seen you "puttying" something or handle inaccuracies while the progress without loosing your mood



Hi my friend,
thanks a lot for following my build. I really appreciate it. The older I become the more patience I get. To be honest it's a great kit and I enjoyed every minute of building it.
Today I got the tail code letters done. Pics will follow tomorrow. I had a hard week on duty.
greetings ro
surgeon01
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Posted: Saturday, August 09, 2014 - 09:29 AM UTC
Hi there,
in the meantime I finished the tail code letters and applied a few left decals from the kit. I also started a bit weathering, painted exhaust stains and did some streaking. The cockpit glasses are only dryfitted.
Now there are still some things to do, the landing gear and the wheel bay doors, fitting the cowling, the props ...
Thanks for stopping by, best regards
ro