Laurie,
Nice save on the antenna. You can use stretched sprue and really make it any dia. you want. It's a learned skill that takes less then 5 min.

Your putty work on the overall canopy looks quite good. But there is a issue or two that you've over looked. Even though it's a one piece canopy, there is the front windscreen, and the larger, main, rear section. Each is framed, so that with the closed one piece canopy, you've covered up all of the various framing except the bottom portion of the frames. Here's a picture of the kit's canopies. When you mask it, you need to either use small pieces of Tamiya tape, or carefully cut a mask following the frame lines.



Here's a picture of my TBD-1 Devastator. In this case I used the kit supplied masks.



This is the Tamiya 1/48 scale F4U-1A Corsair. Here I masked the windshield sections with Tamiya tape.



This a hard skill to learn, and one slip and you cut the clear glass. It's usually fixable with Pledge if it's not too deep.

Joel

Hi Joel,
Bugger I didnt even realise you had to do that to the canopy. The instructions dont mention it but I can see it on the picture on the cover. I am thinking that I dont want to pull the canopy off and masking and then do it again. It all looks pretty neat and I might just leave it for this model. Or maybe I can paint it at the end with a brush?
I mentioned that I found the bottle of Tamiya primer but it will cost me another $10 for freight just for one bottle. I think i will wait till I need to order something more and I will get it.
In the meantime I have used the rattle can to spray on the primer. No use wasting it. It turned out really well.
I picked up just a little defect in that section I repaired behind the cockpit. I will have to put a smidge of filler and re sand it.

Regards

Laurie

Hi Joel and Karl,
I fixed up the small imperfection which the primer showed up and resprayed the primer on that section. I think it is ok for the black base coat. I am going to buy some spoons today and will practice in next few days and hopefully will put the base coat on next week.
I saw a coat hanger made into a stand on my googling and made a similar one up. Works good. Gives me that third hand Joel. Dont know where I will get the fourth one from. Dont think I will ask the missus. The best part of the stand is that it is very stable and you can squeeze together the piece that goes into the exhaust and after inserting it it springs back and takes a good hold. You can also turn it around
Here are some photos. You will notice that the dog recovered from the fumes and is eager to get on with the build






I have another stupid question Joel. Is there a method in the airbrushing. I mean you obviously spray lengthways along the fuselage. But what about the wings. Do you follow the same lengthways spraying. That is a few short passes on the wings in the same direction as the fuselage or do you go the other way which is at 90 degrees to the fuselage (if you understand what I mean)

BTW: You can see my new Alclads just behind the keyboard.

Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
Glad that your dog has recouped and is ready to help you paint.

Like your paint stand, as you'll find out just how handy it will be. I hope you don't paint in front of your computer, as over the long haul the overspray will eventually get to it.

As for how you paint. Up and down, right to left, angled, it doesn't matter. Just what is comfortable for you for overall coverage. Just make sure that you end up with a even coat. This is where practice makes perfect.

Joel

Hi Joel
Updating the Mig. I have primed the surface and rubbed it with cotton clothe. All looks smooth and ready for application of black undercoat. Had a bit of a practice on the spoons this morning. Attached are some photos.
Feel everything went well. No running of paint.
Had a hiccup with the model earlier in the week. The model has two very small pieces that attach under the wings. One is near the end of the wing and the other is just under the wing near the cockpit. They look a bit look some sort of aerial gear but not sure. However when I was detaching one from the sprue with my snip it just took off towards my book case and despite searching for a long time the little blighter cant be found. Those little pieces seem to have a mind of their own and obviously are looking for freedom. I recall once when building a boat and a small piece fell on the floor just under me. Took me days to find the piece. It must have hit on the edge and end up inside a book.
Anyway I manufactured another piece from the sprue that looks a bit like it. Only I will know and it is not getting judged so I am not too concerned.
I will do a few more spoons over the weekend and hopefully I will get to apply the black under coat early next week. Do you think a cup full will be enough to paint the model?
My search for a top for the cup has not yielded anything that really works so far. I was thinking of just covering the top with a bit of plastic glad wrap and wrap a rubber band around the outside of the cup to hold it in place. That way I wont have any great disasters if it spills. I think i will be painting outside anyway so i will wait for a calm non windy day. I think the fumes might be too much for the wife and she is not too happy about the exhaust idea.





Regards

Laurie

BTW How many coat of the black did you say. The spoon took 4-5 coast to completely cover in black. One thing I am not sure of is when you are applying the coats you said light coats. So do you just make one pass with full air about 4 inches from the model and all over the entire model and then when you have given the whole model one light spray, straight away repeat it with the second coat and again repeat it straight away with the rest of the coats until you get the required coverage Or would say move the airbrush across the length of the side of the fuselage and back again and again until you get a good coverage and then move down and repeat and just move around the fuselage

Regards

Laurie

BTW; I just checked the spoon I painted with the black gloss. The spoon's surface unpainted is very glossy. The black gloss is slightly orange peel. Not a lot just a bit. Does that mean I had the airbrush too far away from the spoon?

Laurie,
Welcome to the world of the Carpet Monster!! He's a frequent visitor at my house. That's how I learned to make replacement parts.

A lite pass is just that, a single smooth pass. Go back and it's another pass. Wait 5 min and it's another pass. When you have decent coverage, but not complete coverage, then take a 10 min break, then go back and do a few more coats till you have complete/even coverage, then stop. Stop and let dry anytime you see the paint staying wet. That's harder with Gloss since it's shiny.

You'll quickly get a feel for it, and work out procedures that you're comfortable with.

The orange peel is actually from too much paint applied to slowly. Not a big deal, as you usually end of with some. Let completely dry, then polish out. I use the Micro Mesh pads from 4,000 to 12,000. Sometimes I use a liquid car polish (not wax!!), like Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0, it's really nothing but a fine car polishing compound. Go sparingly using either, and stay off edges and high spots as you'll remove the paint very quickly. Apply with plenty of water. This will remove the orange peel and leave a nice deep shine.

Also, you should use primer 1st, polish with the rag, then the Black Gloss, it gives the BG a good base to stick to. That's one thing that primer does that regular gray paint can't do.

Joel

Laurie,
Sorry that I forgot to answer a few more of your questions.

The max I fill the bowl is 3/4. I usually keep it to just more then 1/2. If I need more paint, I just refill it, 1st thinner, paint, then mix. If you didn't run the bowl dry, then just continue to paint. If you did, then shoot a little on a piece of paper towel just so that you don't get a spurt of Thinner.

I clean my eye dropper before I start to actually paint, so that I have it ready to go. And yes, I have like a 1/2 dozen droppers, but old habits die hard.

Joel

Hi Joel
I am again very appreciative of your help. While you are waiting for the paint to dry do you have to empty and clean your airbrush?
I have primed the MIG and the surface was very rough . I gave it a polish with a cotton cloth as you suggested and then I used a 3000p (extremely fine) sandpaper and gave it a wipe. The surface is now very smooth.
I watched a Youtube on using the Alclad chrome paint and the guy stressed that the black undercoat has to be as shiny as you can get it.
I have a produc5 called Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (removes cloudiness, yellowing, oxidation and fine scratches) I suppose that is the same as the one you mentioned

Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
The higher the shine of the black gloss coat, the deeper the shine of the NMF is. I don't go nuts trying for a super smooth surface. My brother does as his 1/32 scale P-51D's are done as Museum displays.

In between coats you don't have to clean your air gun. Just close the cone carefully on the needle, then wipe the tip with Lacquer Thinner on a Qtip, then open up the cone and adjust to the spray pattern as before. Half the time just wiping the tip of the cone is enough without closing it down.

Joel

Hi Joel and others
Well decided it was time to jump in and start airbrushing. Got myself all set up out the back yard. Lovely sunny day, no wind. What could go wrong. Put the first coat of black gloss on the underside of the plane. I was going to let that dry and then do the topside. All was looking good until I saw a little spot in the front undercarriage that the black paint missed. I lent over my upturned MIG which was sitting upside down on my coat hanger holder and I must have tipped the airbrush enough for some black paint to tip out. It dripped on the back section near the exhaust and also on a small section of the back fin. Not too bad. I wiped it with a paper towel. It is probably the size of a 5 cent coin or maybe a dime in USA. So I intend to wait till this afternoon or tomorrow morning when it dries and I will rub it back with some of those micromesh pads and re spray it. First lesson learnt was be bloody conscious of that cup. Let you know how it goes

Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
It's happened to all of us. Just let it dry, then lightly sand and polish.

So how did the compressor and airbrush work?

Joel

Hi Joel,
That makes me feel a bit better. Sometimes I think these things only happen to me. Yes the compressor went great. Set it at 16 psi and the airbrush went well. Feeling my way a bit but progress is being made.
My wife noticed me out there and I am sure she thought it looked like I was having fun so she came out and gave the scene a bit of a surveillance and then went inside. Dogs were also interested in what was going on. I put the MIG in a box for drying to avoid any of the dust or whatever settling on it. Hopefully will have the undercoat finished tomorrow.
Regards

Laurie

BTW Saw a clip of the US Hornets doing their thing in Iraq. Good looking plane. Maybe that will be another build I can do down the track. Those things have a lot of strike power and the accuracy seems pin point

Laurie,
Glad to hear that you're getting the hang of air brushing.

I just primed the A-6E fuselage after re-putting for the 2nd time. I'm almost there. Have a 3rd go around with one remaining area by the windscreen. Using Squadron Green stuff really thinned with Extra Thin this time. Then prime again. such is the life cycle of a plastic scale modeler.
Joel

Hi Joel,
I found a local hobby/craft shop yesterday. Have brushes, glue and a few basic things. I found a set of Testors enamel paints which I bought for $15.99 ( 9 bottles) They only had one set but they also have some very small cans of Revell paint. Maybe I can buy a few cans of enamel when I need a specific colour. Saves a bit on couriers and postage. Bit dear but $4.99 for a small can. Are Testors and Revell decent paints?
I am not sure that my Meguiar's Plast X does not have any wax as on the website it says it has polymers which I think are the same? However I did have another bottle of a scratch remover polisher from the USA called Micro-finish. It is made by a company called Micro Surface Polishing Products from Iowa. I sent them an email and got confirmation that they dont contain any waxes and they said it would bring the black gloss undercoat to a high shine.
Hope to put the final coats of the black on tomorrow.
Noticed the decals on the Mig are pretty simple. I think I will do the Soviet decals or maybe the North Korean ones which are just a couple of stars on the top of the wings and a number on the nose. There is also a black strip on the wing near the cockpit which I imagine was a non slip surface for the pilots to get out on

Really enjoying this Tamiya kit. Detail is much better than the Italieri and parts just a lot better. Even the drop tanks are great. The connection where they connect with the underside of the wing is very strong and easy to connect.
I just realise why I had that little problem with the fuselage behind the cockpit. As I told you this is a clear edition model but you can do it as an ordinary model. If you do it as a clear edition the engine is visible through the clear section of fuselage. However I noticed that in the posts on Model Madness that if you werent using the clear edition you just didnt worry about fitting the engine and some modelers had some problem with the nose falling down because of the weight of the engine. So I had constructed the engine but then decided not to fit it. I just notice that there is a part of the engine that fits just behind the cockpit that I probably should have fitted as it had some lugs where the fuselage slotted into. I am not sure but I think that might have been the problem. Anyway you cant notice anything now. I have learnt that you sometimes have to be thinking a bit in advance on these models and foresee problems with the later fitting of parts. Anyway I am beginning to pick up some valuable experiences

Regards

Laurie



Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
With every post, you're sounding more and more like a true plastic aircraft modeler. Like I said at the start, you just take it one step at a time, learning as you go. The trick is to not tackle more then you can handle at anyone time. If I only followed my own advice, I would have a 100% successful completion rate, and like everyone else, I'm not close. That's where shelf Queens come from, or even the occasional one that heads off to the landfill.

The small bottles of Testors enamels are what we basically used back in the old days; the 70's. There was some acrylics namely Poly S, and Lacquer based paints Foquil for model railroaders, but I only used those little bottles of Testors. I've never used the Revell enamels nor the Humbrol enamels or acrylics, so I can't tell you much about them, other then those that have used them in build threads, like them quite a lot.

Enamels aren't anything like Acrylics, take much longer to dry, and then you still need to give it even more time to get rock hard. I usually wait a min of 48 hours between free hand color coats, and 5-7 days before I mask with Tamiya tape detacked. And this is in a air conditioned environment. Humidity just seems to prolong the curing process. So you need to take that into consideration.

Back, when I used Testors enamels, I used their Mineral Spirits in the black can. I used cheap store brands for cleaning. Today, I still use LC to clean my air gun no matter what base I'm using including Future/Pledge.

As a starting point, thin the Testors 2:3. this is what my brother uses 12-14 psi. Too thin go to 1:1. Remember to thin so that you can draw a nice smooth line with little over spray.

The purpose of the polish is to smooth out the black gloss coat. It does that by knocking down the high spots and smoothing out that dreaded orange peel. You can also do that with Micro Mesh polishing pads or cloths.

As far as the step goes on the Mig 15 fuselage, if it's causes by a tricky alignment, you can glue some thin sheet plastic tabs in 4 spots so that the matching section has to line up correctly. The key here is to make sure that you clamp the strips so that they dry to the proper contour.

Joel

Hi Joel and ors,
Well a lot has gone on the last few days. I applied the black gloss undercoat. As I said it was a bit orange peely so I used my liquid micro finish and polished it up to a high gloss finish. I have had a few hiccups and I think it may be something you can assist me on. During the polishing of the black gloss coat I managed to knock off the aerials again and the undercarriage covers. So I had to do a bit of re making of parts. It is very hard to polish the plane with a cloth and not knock these small little things hanging off the plane. Should you paint first and add some of these things at the end. That would entail painting them separately. My intuition is telling me that I should do this in future. I suppose all models are different.
The black undergloss remains a little sticky and I have been handling it with a cotton sock but it still but the surface of the black is not rock hard (it has been about 4 days on)
So I am now going to apply the Alclad. I am a little concerned about it being orange peely. I did some research and one post said the problem is that the airbrush is not close enough to the model which allows the paint to dry before hitting the surface. I think I was about 4-6 from the body when I brushed on the black. Should I be closer? I also read a bit about applying the Alclad and re read your advice Joel. You say to apply several thin coats. So I intend to do that. I am intending to hold the airbrush about 2-3 inches from the surface and make a sweeping motion. I am worried being so close to the surface that I may get the Alclad running so I hope to make some even sweeps.
As I said I am trying to reveal all my problems and ineptitudes in order to learn something from my mistakes. Makes feel like a bit of an idiot at times but it has been my experience that learning from your mistakes is the best way to learn.



Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
I never glue any small parts that I can easily break off till the very end, especially if I don't need to weather them like Antennas etc. I don't even glue up the landing gear till I'm ready to paint, some times I leave them off as well till the end. I just painted the bottom of the A-6E, and I haven't even started to build up the gear. Same goes for gear doors, etc. I paint, polish, decal, and weather them off the model. Experience has shown me that I'm going to knock most of them off sometime during the build.

I'm pretty sure we discussed orange peel before. Usually it's caused by the paint not flowing smoothly enough. Once dry, you can rub/polish it out. It's rare that I get it smooth enough without polishing it. It's not caused by the paint hitting the surface almost dry. that would show up as a rough, sand like texture, not orange peel. You don't need the gloss black to have a mile deep shine, just get it as smooth as you can, without rubbing through it.

As for the paint still feeling sticky after 4 days, it is what it is. You're painting out doors in humid conditions, so it's going to take longer for the enamel based paint to dry, then cure. You shouldn't even be polishing it out till it's completely cured. I paint in a air conditioned room with a 50% humidity level, and I still give the enamel base paint 2-3 days to fully cure. My brother goes 5 days at his house, and he also has central air. Just don't rush it, cause you'll just end up causing more issues that will need to be addressed.

Use the time to build and paint your landing gear, gear doors, etc. If you run out of things to work on, then pick your next build, and start to accumulate research material, pictures, details, etc. It's time well spent. Once the build starts, you never want just do google searches.

As far as distance to the model, for Acrylic paints I'm about 4 inches or so. For Alcad 11 and Model Master Metallics, I'm 2 or 3 inches from the surface. You just want a even mist coat.

Here's their home page. It's a must read. Plenty of excellent information. As a matter of fact, one of the models they paint is Tamiya's Mig 15!!

http://alclad2.com

Joel

Hi Joel
Not sure of the time differences but I think you may have just woken up. It is about 11 am in the morning in Australia. Thanks for all that advice. I read that it is not advisable to work on the Alclad NMF after it has been sprayed as it spoils the effect..

I agree that I should get another model to work on while waiting for things to dry. Takes a lot of self control to just let something sit there for such a long time. However I have read a few posts about the Alclad Black Gloss not drying properly so maybe others have had the same experience

I certainly wont be putting on the aerials etc on the next model. You have to be so careful with them as they are so small and break and bend so easily.

I just had a lot at that link you provided and saw the MIG What a great paint job. I will never get to that start How on earth did they paint those small parts in gold etc on the wing. Maybe it is a bigger model than the 1/48th.
BTW: I seek that they saw to spray a clear gloss finish over the Black Gloss paint. Is that just for Chrome finishes?

Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
I have a world clock widget on my phone, so I checked it out. It's 9:35 am (New York) and it's 11:05 pm (Adelaide)by you. At least we're in the same day. Well, I think we are.

I have also read about issues with the Alcad Black Gloss base coat. 1st, it's an enamel base paint, so it takes much longer to dry and cure then either a lacquer base (the fastest), or a Acrylic base. It's also the most susceptible to changes in temp and humidity. Higher temps, faster drying, but higher humidity really increases the drying and curing time. Too much, and it never really dries till those conditions change. As I said, I'm fortunate in that we have central Air Conditioning, and that I have a modeling room where I can paint Lacquer based paints as well as a home made paint booth.

You can always use another base type Gloss Black. Many people actually prefer the Tamiya AS rattle cans or decant it and air brush it on. Rattle cans take a whole new learning process to produce the finish you want, but it can be done. I use to paint race cars with them, and once I found a method that worked for me, I was home free.

I've also read (but never tried) spray cans from the big box hardware stores. You need to be real careful with them as the paint formula wasn't designed for plastic models. Do some google searches to find brands that will work and that are available by you.

You can always use Tamiya Acrylic Gloss Black. It never is as smooth out of the air gun then enamels, but you just polish it once it dries.

I learned how to use Alcad's from their web site and from my brother. I just found it easier to use their products from start to finish. It doesn't mean it's the best method, but it works for me.

All paints are effected by heat and humidity, so you'll have to deal with those issues. Down the road you can think about a good home spray booth that will prevent the fumes from spreading through your house. You can then paint at night or early in the morning when the temps and humidity are less (summer time). Winter would be the exact opposite.

Not sure why they sprayed clear over the Gloss Black. I don't. I use it to seal decals, and I only use their Kleer Kote. I've used their clear coat to seal the Alum 101 if I'm going to mask using tape. Haven't tried post it yet which has a lot less tacky stuff. My brother never seals, and masks then decals without any issues. Go figure. Here's one of his Tamiya 1/32 P-51D's. There isn't any sealer used. He loves museum type finishes, so it's been polished out to the nth degree.
Joel

Hi Joel,
So your brother polishes the Alclad after it dries? If so does he also use the Meguiars polish?

I hope to put the Alclad on in a few days time.

Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
Yes, he polishes the gray primer with a car polish, but the black gloss and the Aluminum finish he uses a two part model liquid system by Novus. His used it for years.

Joel

Hi Joel,
Is this the product he uses

http://www.polish-up.com.au/products/novus-compound-kit-1-2.html

Regards

Laurie

BTW: I have another question for you in relation to glues. I have been using the Mr. Cement S for the wings and fuselages etc and now seem happy with this. Also I understand you have to use a white glue on canopies.
My question relates to those little fiddly bits like undercarriage doors, wheels, antennaes etc. So far I have been using super glue but it can have its problems if you dont get it right the first time. Is that what you do?

I think your brothers model is great I think a 1/32 kit would be a little more easier to work with. I dont know how they make those 1/72 kits. Some of the those little pieces must require the skill of a brain surgeon on those small models. I am having enough trouble with the1/48th and so far my hand is fairly steady.

Laurie,
Yes, that's the Novus system he's always used.

As for gluing canopies and windscreens, most people usually use some type of white glue including Microscale's Krsytal Kleer. I use to use it as well. These days I use either Extra thin or Gorilla Super Glue. I've never had any fogging issues, but once it dries, there is no popping the parts off. You do need to be very careful applying either type, especially the Extra Thin. One slip and you've ruined the glass. For small, tiny parts, I still use Extra thin or Gorilla CA glue. It's thicker then regular Super Glue, but thinner then the Gel type. With Extra Thin I can use it over paint as it eats right through it, but you have to scrap down to raw plastic for Gorilla Glue to really work well.

1/32 scale is a whole different ballgame. Tamiya kits cost more then $150 per kit. The new Revell Spit costs $20 and is a great kit. Trumpeter kits are generally a nightmare deal, and not for the novice builder. Visit the LSP (Large Scale Planes)forum and start reading builds if you're thinking about moving up in scale. Those kits have plenty of small parts as well as they're much more detailed then the 1/48 scale kits you're presently building. Personally, I'd stick to 1/48 scale till you're comfortable building those kits.

Joel

Hi Joel and ors
Well I got a chance today to get the Alclad on. Here is a picture


Had a couple of issues. Firstly when I began to paint the paint didnt come out at first. I had loaded the pot and opened up the cone and sprayed a bit on a piece of absorbent paper to check the flow and it was ok. But when I began to spray it didnt have any paint coming out only air and before I noticed I had moved the airbrush onto the model and suddenly the paint came out and I applied a little too much. It appears that it might have dried in the cone or needle or something. However it didnt run and subsequent coats corrected it. I found however that after waiting for a short time for the prior coat to dry and then turning the brush on again I wasnt getting any paint. I then had to open up the cone a bit further to get the paint to flow. Not sure what is happening there. Is the paint drying or was the cone not opened enough? Also there were a few spurts of little drops on some coats but it turned out alright.
There is a little section on the tail that needs a further light coat which I will try and do tomorrow or Thursday.
I will give a week to dry and then I will polish it. I might not get the Novus products just yet. Is there anything else I can use. Will the Micro Mesh (liquid scratch remove) be ok. I used it on the black gloss and it brought it up to a high shine. Or maybe I have some Meguiares polish in the garage. Will have to have a look. Any suggestions? After I polish it up do I just apply the decals straight on top of it and then some pledge over the top or do I use the Alclad Kleer Cote. Sorry if I am asking the same questions over but again. But I am a bit new to this and confused.
Very happy with the way the Alclad went on though. Starting to get the hang of it.

Regards

Laurie

Laurie,
1st off congratulations on your 1st Alcad 11 paint job. See you did it. Are you going to use different colors or polish just certain panels? You'll also notice that every single mark shows through the Alcad. Now don't touch it with your fingers. Wear cotton or latex gloves.

The Alcad paints dry very, very quickly, so you got a dried drop or two in your needle/cone. Most of the time just continuing to keep the air on and over a piece of paper towel, it will either dissolve or shoot out as a blob. I keep a Qtip with LC soaked on it so that I can rub the tip of the cone to dissolve any dried paint. As you found, you can also get the paint to flow by opening up the cone, then closing it back down, but do it over a piece of paper toweling.

Alcad dries to the touch in a few min. so I only wait till the next day to coat it.

If and when you polish the Aluminum depends on what base Aluminum you used, and how highly polished you want it.

I polish the Tamiya gray primer with Micro Mesh pads usually through 6,000.

I polish the Gloss Black base coat till it's smooth with the pads to 8,000 or 12,000, but I don't go crazy as I want a operationally looking aircraft, not what my brother prefers.

Since I want a operationally looking finish, ei. oxidized not polished, I don't do anything to the Alum 101. To mask it for either or both Dark and White Aluminum, I use their Kleer Kote 310, which is just a clear. They have other clear coats from gloss to flat/Mat. I've never used them as yet.

I use the Kleer Kote for decal prep over the entire model, so I'm coating generally Tamiya Acrylic paints as well. Works great for me. I seal the decals in a few coats. When dry the weathering starts.

My brother polishes the primer coat with Micro Mesh pads.
The Gloss Black base with the Novus system
The various shades of Alcad with the Novus system.
He decals right over the Alcad.
He doesn't seal his decals. So far he hasn't had any yellowing issues with the decals, but that can happen a few years down the road as the clear film yellows from the direct sunlight.
He also doesn't weather the Alcad finish, only lightly weathers any painted surfaces. I'm trying to get him to do if nothing else pin washes.

What you have to do is define a painting system that works for you to accomplish the finishes your looking for. No one set of procedures will do that.

Some where earlier I posted a picture of the F-4B exhaust areas I painted with Alcad. I sealed them in Kleer Kote 310, then weathered them. They're anything but shiny, but they look realistic. That was my goal.

If I was doing a P-47D in NMF and a Airliner in basically a NMF, the airliner would be shiny, but the Jug sure wouldn't. That's my personal taste, so the set of procedures I would use from what Alcad to the finish would be totally different.

Joel