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Best 1/32 single seater for NMF
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
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Posted: Monday, September 19, 2016 - 05:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

the F104 trumps the P-51D hands down.



Yes. Period.



I like 'em both-- but I agree the F104 is just a bit more interesting. Guess that's why I've got 1 Tamiya P51, and had four Hasegawa F104s-- two built and two waiting. The two waiting are designed to be an NF104 and a NASA F104G.
Thought about building a STO bird, but too complicated.
VR, Russ
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
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Posted: Monday, September 19, 2016 - 09:47 AM UTC
What I meant by F104 "STO" (short take off) was the West German RATO bird that was launched from a mobile platform trailer parked along the autobahn-- I always thought that was a most interesting concept for an F104.
VR Russ
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Monday, September 19, 2016 - 11:02 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Gaz,
I don't think foiling with raised panel lines is too much different than foiling with engraved lines, in some cases it's easier because you can cross lines with a larger sheet of foil without having to worry about pressing into a line and breaking the foil. I use Micro-scale adhesive for foiling, and I've also been using a commercial spray adhesive available at Office Depot or Lowes (stateside office supply store and a big box hardware store) for attaching the foil, both use alcohol for clean up/removal. It's been ten years now for my F104, and there's no sign of loosening of the foil. I also sand the panel lines so they are just visible. I don't think polish would hurt the foil over the lines much, but I don't polish the foil-- if I want a slightly different look for different panels, I have three methods I use-- with kitchen foil I reverse sides, there's usually a shinny side and a duller side. I also use oooo steel wool for a buff, and finally, for varying colors, I heat the foil for varying times in a small pan of olive or cooking oil-- it will change color depending on the length of time you heat it.
I think I understand what you are getting at with the foil possibly lifting at the panel line seam if you make a cut and polish it there-- it's possible, I just try and be careful. I apply my adhesive to the foil too, not to the model so much, and buff it down with a piece of balsa wood. I use Alclad Gloss Clear (used to use Testors metal finish sealer) but Alclad is better in my opion as a sealant in some cases-- it prevents the foil from oxidizing over time.


VR Russ



Russ,
I think you misunderstood my meaning. What I am concerned about is how the raised line will look once I'm "done" with it. Another concern is how will my panel edges look.

For instance: When following a engraved line, it's very difficult to make a mistake since your blade is trapped on two sides. However, with a raised line your blade is only blocked by one very weak barrier (which could easily be pierced by an X-acto tip. I have little faith in my ability to manage an unaided straight line.

Heh...I think that last paragraph just made up my mind for me...lol

Anyway...on to polishing... Good aluminum polish allows you to get an almost mirror finish on plain kitchen foil.
Like this N1K1 I did a while back:

And I have used various methods without resorting to paint to get panels to contrast in certain light. Half of the small panels near the trailing edge of this B-29's wing were sanded in one direction and laid intermittently with un-sanded panels to get contrast at certain angles. They were all polished and all come from the same roll of foil.

I'm still working on the B-29...

Thank you for helping me decide, even though I'm going to have to go with Italerei just because it has engraved lines.

Best
Wishes,

Gaz
Kevlar06
_VISITCOMMUNITY
Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
AeroScale: 833 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2016 - 04:42 AM UTC
Gary,
If I were you, I'd see if you could take a look at the Italeri kit before buying- at $100 it's pretty expensive. To my taste the panel lines are pretty wide and deep (similar to a 21st Century kit) but it's a nice kit for the details. The soft lines meeting the hard line on the top of the fuselage are also an issue, I suppose you could fill or re-engrave-- but for that money you shouldn't to do that. I'm not trying to sell you on the Hasegawa kit either- the raised lines might be a challenge- But judging by your fantastic "tin bending" work, I think you could do well with it. Your work is exceptional--first class--go with the F104-- it's screaming for your technique!
VR Russ
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
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Posted: Tuesday, September 20, 2016 - 11:32 AM UTC
Russ,
Thank you for the compliments. The foil bug certainly inspires bigger and better efforts. There are a lot of jets out there waiting.

I'm not sure how I'd do the soft lines. Joel's scribe method might work for that. With the B-29 i had to scribe all of the lines. Some inadvertently were too deep and too wide. A technique I would employ was to fill the line with CA and the touch a corner of a kleenex to a portion of the CA. Capillary action would draw CA into the tissue, and the Remaing CA would self-level and shrink as it dried. Once dry, but not too much later and still not rock-hard I would sand it off leaving a neater, narrower, and shallower line. Future also can fill lines the same way but because it needs overnight to dry, I feel the CA method needs more testing/finessing.

I'm still learning. Still trying new things and trying to find better techniques. It's all fun and all frustrating when it doesn't work straight off..

Best wishes,

Gaz
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