Patrick-- looking good! I like Milliput for molding stuff too-- it dries rock hard in a few hours, and works great in simulating cloth and thin materials like towels, canvas, and pockets, just roll it flat on a sheet of kitchen wax paper with a drop or two of water to break the surface tension on the paper-- it's amazing how thin you can get it, and still have it be durable. You can add detailed like pockets on the life raft or clothing articles too. As a side note, I had an elderly neighbor (funny me saying that as some would consider my 64 years as "elderly") with a leak in her kitchen sink drain-- yep it works underwater just like they said it does-- I used half a tube of Milliput and smoothed it right into the joint that was leaking-- fixed it until a plumber could get there 3 days later-- he asked what the heck was holding the sink together! I had to explain Milliput to him-- he'd never heard of anything like it.
VR, Russ

I need help!

I have discovered that "FUTURE" is no longer manufactured but that Pledge (who bought the brand) makes a similar product.

Will this work for dipping canopies and how about that "Future" finish people like to spray on their finished models?

Patrick-- See the PM I sent you-- bottom line, Pledge with Future is the same as the old Future. It can be dipped or sprayed, I never thin it, but others do with distilled water-- but I find this unnecessary-- Future is self leveling-- but dries quickly-- you can avoid drips and sags by wicking off the excess with a paper towel. If you screw up, just strip it with household ammonia-- but never spray ammonia through your airbrush as it can damage chrome and corrode brass. I prefer lacquer thinner, but you can use water if you clean right after applying. It can also be stripped with Windex-- it just takes a little longer. Some decal solutions will leave a white residue on Future-- not to fear, just apply a second coat of Future, it will disappear.
VR, Russ

This Russ Bucy guy is one helluva guy! Always with lots of good advice and tips! I don't think I have ever had anyone in the modeling hobby be so generous with help and I know he will always answer a question.

And on that note, I won't be working for the next three weeks on the project as I have work, then a week with my son in Memphis and Little Rock, come back and go back to work. Next available bench day will be way off in June... maybe the 9th! But I will be cruising the shops of Memphis and LR if anyone has any suggestions!

Cheers! I will be looking in! Good luck with all that you are doing!

Well, you are generous with your comments, but the truth is I belong to a great group of modelers here in the NW that make it a habit of helping other modelers out all the time. We just make it a habit of paying it forward when we can. There are many others on Kitmaker that do the same- one reason it's my favorite-- and many here have done the same for me here.
VR, Russ

well, well, it has been a while and might be a while longer at this rate. Summer is upon us and all the attendant miseries plus a new change back to the old schedule of 4 on/3 off makes for a dull change.

Little plastic progress has been made but I did buy an 18 gauge brad nailer so that I may get the base started and ordered a gallon of EnviroTex Lite to start pouring water. I am thinking I need about 3.5 inches minimum and can do only 1/8th of an inch every three days so you do the math. It might take three months just to pour the water with the nose embedded in the final 1.5". Should be interesting!

Hope everyone else is having a great summer! Talk to you all soon!

Well the base is built and the interior painted and 1/8th inch of resin water is hardening. Only 23 more to go! I am not sure how many gallons it is going to take but I think I need a 55 gallon drum of resin and hardener.

Also the wing root has been glued in place and the seam is filled. Just need to sand...

Photos to follow!

Also, anyone have any tips on how to curl the ends of the prop as if it has hit water? I know heat will do it but if someone has a photo of said damaged prop, I would really appreciate it!

Thanks! Your comments and advice are always welcome!

Hi Patrick not to sure how to achieve this but solvents will soften the plastic to allow you to bend it but using a hair dryer or heat gun will allow you to apply heat better than an open flame. As to prop damage check out this P-47 that struck a lake while strafing ....now that's low!

p47-prop-1024x566 by Chris WIlson, on Flickr

Perfect look👀! Thanks Chris!

Well, let's see, the last post was in July and I still haven't taken the time to find a new photo hosting site.

Any suggestions?

Also, progress has ground to a halt due to this little thing called life. I have more time off now but more stuff to do. After the holidays are packed away, I should get some time to get back at this project!

I got a paint jar shaker from Santa. What kind of toys and goodies did you get?

Patrick - I signed up with ImageshackUS - At the time it was just under $ 20. / yr.
Much easier to use , faster and trouble free than PhotoF_ _kit. So far no issues with 3rd party hosting. Looking forward to your updates - Richard

Thanks, Richard... $20 a year is better than no photos at all!

Happy New Year to all!

I use Imgur. It's free and I haven't had any issues with it.

https://imgur.com/?

Steve

Flickr is really good too!

Thanks everyone for the photo hosting sites. I will be doing the necessary research. Isn't Flickr part of Google?

IMGUR is free...


Here's the tutorial I wrote for Hyperscale so that people didn't waste money on hosting.

http://www.hyperscale.com/imgurtutorialmo_1.htm

He also told me that the propeller blade tip markings were still in use at Midway. Not only that but the dark blue color at the bottom was continued to the cowl on the rear of the prop for anti-glare purposes. The front the prop blades were black and the manufacturer logo went midway down the shaft of the blade.

patrick could you explain more clearly what you mean by "the dark blue color at the bottom was continued to the cowl on the rear of the prop for anti-glare"? the bottom of what? i don't know where mark got his info but I have never seen the back side of props painted blue for anti glare purpose on U.S.planes in the pacific. it wouldn't make sense since the props were painted flat black already. i too am doing a tbd midway build and want to get it right and i really don't think that is correct.
thanks-

joe

Joe, it has been close to a year since I spoke with Mark.

I am not even sure what I meant by cowl but I may be referring to the engine cowl...

You can speak with him directly by calling Starfighter.

Also, as I am not a rivet counter, I am not sure that it would be inaccurate to delete a detail. This is my build and as long as it doesn't vary or stray too far off the beaten path, I don't think it will matter.

This is a perfect photo to duplicate in my dio! I don't know where I found it but it is brilliant! Just need to finish the plane!

yes that looks perfect to base your dio on.

i understand patrick. i wasn't intending to make any judgment on your build i was just saying i want to make sure my build was correct and maybe someone here may know if this was correct since i have never seen anything props painted anything but black during the war years.
looking forward to your finished model.

joe

Joe, my only statement to the war years comment is that Midway happened very early in 1942 and there were many deficiencies to our carrier program. Based on the nearly total loss of TBD-1s at Midway, lots changed.

The prop livery may have been in the pre-war colors since many changes were underway. If you painted the cockpit tub aluminum on your build, I don't think it could be called inaccurate. And since there were only one or two TBD-1 aircraft left after Midway, it is hard to say what they looked like... down to the propellor. I would say just go with what you feel like you would do...

Post some pics either here or on another thread. I would be very interested in seeing your build.

thanks patrick. will do. i am building gay's skipper waldrons craft for the pto campaign.
i do like to get my builds as close to accurate as possible, it's just my way. for instance i know waldron had ordered the rear guns to be re fitted with a duel gun setup just before the battle. the monogram kit has a single gun so i cast a duel set from a hasegawa kit, i do take some liberties though.for instance- you make a good point about the cockpit color and i believe you mat be right but i may take your advice and go with what i like.
i will be following your build and look forward to comparing the two builds.

joe

p.s. i'd like to see some of the photos posted here that were on PB. could you repost them?

Sure, Joe, I’ll try to get those back up. New computer, Christmas undecorating, the wife’s birthday and s 48 hour Paramedic refresher class all have me spinning but I’ll see what I can do!

Joe, what I meant to say is the dark blue color, on the pilot facing side, extends from the tip of each blade down to approximately the top of the cowling. I can't really explain why but it kind of makes sense...