I have tried to scribe panel lines several times in the past where needed with various success and failure.

Ive ordered templates and some good scribing tools (such as from Tamiya, and Trumpeter)

I dug out a couple of old Monogram airplanes (Hawker Hurricane, Bf109) started long ago to use as test subjects.

If anyone wants to join in with their tips and or tutorials I would love to try them out.



My selection of Dental picks and the Trumpeter scribing tool.


Saw blades Ive seen are also great to use, here are some of mine. Plus a roll of Dymo tape for guiding the scribe tool.


My templates have not arrived yet, along with the Tamiya scribe tool. I want to test all of the different tools to see what works for me so to make a better build and expand my building techniques. Also to get your advice in this area.

Bob

Self-adhesive labelling tape (Dymo etc.) works for me. You can cut it into thinner strips to make it go further but a piece can usually be reused a few times before losing adhesive properties.

A scriber works best in templates I've found. Once I've scribed the required shape I then flow Tamiya extra thin cement into it to smooth out the lines. I find using a straight point doesn't so much cut the plastic like the Trumpeter tool will it gouges it and leaves a rough edge to the line.

You have all the good tools. Check out Paul Budzig's tutorials on his Scale Model Workshop Channel. He has great tips on scribing as well as other valuable information...

On YouTube, of course...

I apply a primer that is a contrast to the plastic. You can then scrape off the panel lines, with a rounded scalpel. You may be surprised that done carefully you can scrape away the raised panel lines without removing any of the surrounding primer, or at least only a small amount.
What this leaves you with is a very good map of where the panel lines were and it is the a simple case of scribing along these paint free areas.
Before scribing I would suggest using a pointed tool to make an indent at the junction of each line, that will prevent you from scribing too far.
Remember that although panel lines are strait going around the fuselage the compound curvature of the fuselage makes it impossible to actually follow them when using Dymo tape, because it is so stiff. So if you sand off the panel lines first you will probably end up scribing lines on the fuselage that are in the wrong place. Cutting Dymo tape into thin strips will help to get it to conform to the proper position but I have, very successfully, used Thin strips of Tamiya tape to scribe against, which is very easy to lay against where the lines should be. Using Tamiya tape requires that you make the first few passes very light but it does work and it is monumentally quicker than using Dymo tape. I re-scribed a Monogram 1/48 B-26 Marauder in under 3 hours, many moons a go. I may even have done an article on it, which will be in the archives?
Try laying a piece of Dymo tape along side a panel line?

I avoid scribing where ever possible but I have just bought the Airfix 1/72 scale B-26B Marauder and I am contemplating scribing that!

My article:
Scribing made EEZEE

I have reviewed Chris, Peter, and Mal's suggestions and tried a little test on the Hurricane:
1st. the panel line that seperates the wing from the wing tip, then I tried Mal's tip on the wing tip curve line and finally I did the line at the leading edge of the wing. Ive come up with different tools to use for different ares.
LEADING EDGES: the razor saw.
LONG PANEL LINES: Dymo tape and either the Trumpeter tool or the dental pick with very light pressure at first followed by several passes with the tool and more pressure. Finally I use the razor saw to widen the line then some Tamiya Extra Thin to take away the rough edge of the plastic.












I have found that the process will take some time to accomplish.

Bob

Yes, it is time consuming. What i learned is that some panel lines are in impossible places fr a scribing point of view. It is sometimes better to omit a line than to screw it up completely

Bob,
I'd like to refer you to this article on cleaning out scribed panel lines with a homemade "slotting file" by Richard Brumm over at Large Scale Planes. Using liquid cement to clean the panel lines wears down the sharp edges of the panel line, and will fill them unevenly, which can damage your hard work. The "slotting file" technique solves that problem. It works great. Also, the reference above to Paul Budzik's website is a good one. Paul is a recognized scratchbuilder and accomplished modeler, even mentioned in the book "The Scratchbuilders". Here's the slotting file article:

http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=2751

Here's Paul's website:

http://paulbudzik.com

When doing curved lines, it's always best to use a curved guide or template. I use cut Dymo tape, or a circle cut out of .07mm brass sheet. To cut the sheet, I just use a pair of tin snips to get the basic shape, then I fhammer it flat and sand Tom shape. There are some commercial curved templates available, but I find them awkward to use.

VR, Russ

Drab, I agree with you on those difficult lines that would be almost impossible to obtain.

Russ, thanks for the links they were really good to view and gain the perspective of what am I really going for.

The two a/c that I am using are for the test of scribing and to gain your input to help me out with future builds where I need to do a little scribing and to have a little experience to back my up.


I like that Paul used tape more often than Dymo which Ive so far come to not like very much.

The following lines were done with both Dymo and Tamiya tape. I like the Tamiya tape method, it does not take as long to apply and sticks to the model better. And makes me slow down the scribing knowing that the edge is not as rigid.

Ive had more progress with both success and failure. When I take my time and plan the line better I end up with a nice straight line, when I rush the line is not as straight end up with wavy scribing which I had to fill with putty. after some success on the wings and fuselage I thought that I wanted to see how the lines look under some paint. So I brushed on some Tamiya acrylic to get a look.















Now to finish the panel lines then prime both airplanes to get a final look before I decide on what to do with both a/c

Bob

My new best modeling friend is Mr Dissolved Putty- it's simply the best for filling scribing boo-boos.

Chuck, thanks for that tip. I have not seen Mr Solved Putty yet, Ill need to check it out since I boo booed up the wing wing root and fill in with CA. which I am not happy with.

Great topic. I sux at this even with a drawer full of scribing/scraping tools.

Cheers

Robbie, this was to see if I could successfully accomplish lines. And to get everyone's input to help.

My templates just arrived and work great with the straight pick that Chris suggested. Ive filed the wing fillet of the Bf109 and it turned out good.

And I am lurking and watching to try any neat tricks. I have in my large 'work in progress' stash (a stash within the stash) a Arii D4Y2 Judy and a Condor A4/V2 Rocket that I need to re-scribe some lines that have been filled/sanded over. Keeping a straight line is a challenge and the V2 - can we say curve... Egads I am totally scaring that poor thing...

Cheers

I've mentioned this usually once or twice per build of late, that scribing is my least favorite modeling job.

I've tried Dymo tape and it's really to thick for anything but a flat surface. So I've adopted two layers of plain old masking tape that I cut thin strips out of. works great on all but the tightest compound curves. I have a small collection of templates that I use from time to time.

As for scribers, I have 3: the Tamiya one that has a pretty thick blade, so it's rarely used. I much prefer the UMM-USA scriber as it has the usual curved blade at one end and straight cutter at the other end that does long straight lines extremely well. My 3rd cutter is a large size sewing needle in a hand held drill.

As others have mentioned scribers don't cut but rather gouge a channel with raised lips that require sanding, cleaning, and finally Extra Thin and then polished out as a final step.

I've also run across the issue that each pass of a scriber not only deepens the groove, but widens it as well. So you need to be consistent with the number of passes.

Paul Budzik's video on Scribing offers you three different methods: Scribing the plastic, scribing the primer coat, and finally for the very brave at heart, scribing the color coats. I've also seen guys replacing scribing with a very fine pencil, and it does look good.

Joel

Joel, I am finding out what you mean about the line widening with each path.I am learning the finesse more and as Drab stated I plan on which lines are left out.

Ive tried out the templates and am learning how to use them. Also when to fill in a line then add cement to harden before I try again.

I am just about to start scribing for the first time myself
I have a couple of 1/48 scale U-2's and a C-130 to do.

I just came across this stuff in a video

https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/hiq-parts-cgt-6mm-carving-guide-tape-size-width-6-0mm-x-30m-1pc

It is thinner than Dymo tape an also comes in 3mm.

Cheers Rob.

Rob, thanks for the link, I will check it out. Ive now added some wing fuel filler doors to the top of both wings using the circle template and the straight dental pick with some success. The fuselage is now complete and I am happy with my attempt at this using tape, razor saw, and the Trumpeter panel line scribing tool.

This Monogram Bf109 may look good enough to paint after I am finished with the panel and access lines.

Bob! For that curved wingtip line, the below trick could be of some use (snipped from an earlier build blog of mine and trick (as stated below as well) picked up from one of Chukw's builds!


Stealing ideas shamelessly from Chukw... The slightly complex rear end of the engine cover would have been a pain to scribe without a template...


...I made this one by attaching a length of tape to the fuselage, then drawing the panel line curve with a pencil. The tape was then transferred to a thin sheet of plasticard where the contour was cut out and sanded smooth. The template was then attached to the fuselage and the panel line scribed using a needle in a pin vise.



Magnus

Magnus, thanks for that Chukw TIP it will be helpful in the future especially when I attempt to finish the Hurricanes wing tips.

Bob

Just one other tip-- instead of using tape, I frequently use wax paper to trace panels to make templates for scribing and for decals (as in making panel decals to fit over the panels). You can see through wax paper, it takes a sharp #2 pencil lead very well, and you can cut out an almost perfect shape to use for making a template out of styrene. this is particularly useful in bare metal finishes. I frequently use the wax paper template method for making "panels" out of painted decal paper to highlight certain panels, sometimes eliminating scribing altogether for small scale projects. Didn't mean to hijack the thread here-- but this is another way to get a "panel line".
VR, Russ

Thanks Magnus and Russ for tips they will help. I have found that if I do not scribe a panel correctly just get out the putty and do it again. Thanks for that tip Chukw.

Joel, I used hard card #110 lb. to make a template for the stab.