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1:48 aircraft models WWI (biplanes)
mpalao
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Posted: Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 09:14 AM UTC
Hi! I need yours recommendations about the best quality in models for aircrafts of WWI (biplanes). Hasegawa and Tamiya , normaly don´t work these aircrafts. Please what is the best trademark in these airplanes?
Thanks
Merlin
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Posted: Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 09:30 AM UTC
Hi Miguel

I hesitate to answer, because "best" is a very subjective word and this topic is really the domain of Jackflash.

But, in my opinion, Eduard produce what are, arguably, the most modeller-friendly WW1 mass-produced 1/48 scale aircraft kits - high quality parts with a hi-tech (profi-pack) option, closely followed by Roden. Among the short-run kits, Special Hobby and Blue Max have some excellent kits.

It really depends on your skill level and what you're looking for - but take heart, there are countless exciting WW1 kits out there!

All the best

Rowan
JackFlash
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Posted: Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 12:23 PM UTC
JackFlash to Armorama base.............
Thanks for the kind words Merlin; But you quoted the best WWI aviation kit manufacters without any help from me...Merlin is the da man!

Looking at cost Roden has great all plastic kits.
Looking at kits with only a little resin or photoetch ...usually I would pick Special Hobby kits.
Looking at unique subjects with white metal...Blue Max
Looking at the kit with everything...Eduard.

Beware the Hun in the sun!

TedMamere
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Posted: Sunday, July 17, 2005 - 04:36 PM UTC
Hello Miguel!

... and if it's quality you are searching for, don't buy SMER kits! They are probably the worst!

Jean-Luc
mpalao
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Posted: Monday, July 18, 2005 - 08:51 AM UTC
Thank you very much for yours answers Merlin, JackFlash and TedMamere. In this moment, I have in my hands the revell u-boat u-99, for me this is my first model, I hope finished as well as possible. But later, I'm thinking to make any WWI aircrafts, for example the Bristol F2.B, or the Sopwich.
When I decided the model to make it, if you like to say me, under you point of view, what is the model more apropiate for me, I will be very happy to know your opinion.

PD: the Bristol F2.B in this moment is my favorite model.

Thanks
Merlin
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Posted: Monday, July 18, 2005 - 09:06 AM UTC
Hi Miguel

Well, if you like the Bristol F2.B, here's a link to the review of the Roden kit. Eduard have also just brought out a kit - I've got it but haven't reviewed it yet. My first impressions are of great plastic parts, let down (a little) by the decal sheet - the RFC roundel colours look a little off...

All the best

Rowan
TedMamere
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Posted: Monday, July 18, 2005 - 09:13 AM UTC
There is also a new Special Hobby 1/32 albatros D.III in town!

Jean-Luc
mpalao
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Posted: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 01:55 AM UTC
Hi!
Thank you very much. I don´t remember but I think there is a model with 4 options in the decal sheets.
ref 4126 EM , Eduard?, aeroclub?

But Merlin, You model is Eduard, is correct?
Is good?
OK I suppose the decision is about Eduard or Roden, not?

Thanks
Merlin
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#017
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Posted: Wednesday, July 20, 2005 - 07:45 AM UTC
Hi Miguel

Well it's a tough call between the Roden and Eduard kits; in the UK, the kits are exactly the same price, both seem accurate and they each have their plus and minus points:

Both F.2B kits have beautifully detailed interiors.
The Roden kit features a nicely detailed engine - Eduard just have dummy faces to avoid any gaps.
Roden's wings are more delicately done, but Eduard have depicted wing rib-tapes.
Generally, Eduard's kit is more crisply moulded - Roden's parts will need a little extra clean-up.
Roden offer 6 decal options - Eduard 4 (in the standard version of their kit). Roden's roundels are a better colour, but are slightly out of register in my kit - Eduard's are in register, but the blue used looks the wrong colour.
From past experience, Eduard's F.2B will probably be the easier of the two to build - and importantly, they supply a rigging diagram.

I hope this helps

Rowan
mpalao
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Posted: Thursday, July 21, 2005 - 08:24 AM UTC
Thank you very much Merlin. Your answers are very importants for me. Thanks.
I think, the problem for this model is the joint between wings, I suppose is very complicated because the lower wing is not joined to the fuselage. Both wings are joined with attachments and the fuselage also, Is that correct?

What is yours opinion about this?

Is very complicated, what is the solution, I need to joint thelower wing to the fuselage and later I suppose the upper wing, but the problem is the simmetry between all parts. Is correct?

Thanks
Merlin
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Posted: Thursday, July 21, 2005 - 08:44 AM UTC
Hi Miguel

Roden & Eduard tackle the "suspended" lower wing differently... Eduard's looks the simplest, but which is most accurate?

Jackflash is our real expert on WW1 subjects - Stephen... do you have any thoughts on the best way to tackle this area?

All the best

Rowan
mpalao
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Posted: Friday, July 22, 2005 - 07:53 AM UTC
Thanks Merlin and Hammerhead, thank you very much.

Ok, When I finish the revell u-boat model, I'm sure. I buy this model (Bristol). I need to decide between Roden or Eduard , OK. I'm sure, it is a very difficult model, I Know, but this model is beautifull for me.

My error, I was thinking to make this model, bonding the lower wing to the fuselage and later put the upper wing. OK Hammerhead I'm going to study your option about this joining.

Thanks you very much.

PD: If you know any reviews about this aircraft, please , says me where I found more information about this model (eduard or Roden)

Thanks
JackFlash
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2005 - 04:20 AM UTC
JackFlash to Armorama base.

Greetings all;

Merlin asks for Mpalao about the lower wing attachment on the 1/48 Roden and Eduard kits. while the plastic attachments are nice they are in my opinion weak. In both kits they provide plastic stay pins that attach from the lower longeron of the fuselage to the wing spar areas. These are of little or no use if you want the kit to have any longevity.

Replace them with brass pins or rod. There is also the rear legs of the landing gear that pass through the lower wing into the lower fuselage areas. I replaced these with brass as well. All six of these points together will give you a solid anchor to hang the lower wing on.

Now if you pick the Roden kit (my favorite because of the engine) You should be aware that the following items need to be scratchbuilt to fill out the cockpit with the right details. Most of the Roden cockpit is fine out of the box. The instrument panel needs instrument faces and there's no throttle, radiator shutter controls, or fuel and air pump switches. All easy to add.

Also It also could use some exhaust pipe attachments and some gears for the Constantinesco drive which is outside the cowling under the propeller hub. The kit comes with the mounting rails for bomb racks, and some empty racks to attach to them would be nice.

Part of Poland brass fret sells for an additional sum of about 20 USD. I have this and really like the details they add. Here are some comments on both Roden and Eduard kits
http://theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20240

Also if you want the straight truth bout the F2b start with anything done by J.M. Bruce. Osprey did a Vinatge Warbird series some years back. Check out monograph #4 on the Bristol Fighter ...great images.

JackFlash outbound at Angels 10.
mpalao
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2005 - 09:35 AM UTC
Thank you very much JackFlash. Thanks for yours answers and detailed words.

I have any questions about this. Is about the brass elements. I need to buy these elements, for example in any shop with PE brass items ? or for these elements I can use brass wire for example with diameter 3 mm ?

And you have references about any shop to buy several items to include in this model, and I'm interesting to add several details to this model.

Can you help me?

Thank you very much
Merlin
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2005 - 09:30 PM UTC
Hi Miguel

Eduard have now released the Profi-Pack F.2B which includes photo-etched details - that might give you the detail you're after.

Hope this helps

Rowan
mpalao
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2005 - 11:31 PM UTC
Thanks, Merlin. But one question, OK the price is high. but all sprues are replace by PE brass in this model or only ones??
What is the differents between this model and the classical model to Eduards?

Thanks
Merlin
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#017
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Posted: Saturday, July 23, 2005 - 11:44 PM UTC
Hi Miguel

The photo-etch frets in Eduard's Profi-Pack kits replace some plastic parts and add exrta detail. The kits also have different decal options and sometimes extra resin parts (not in this instance). The plastic parts are the same as the standard kit.

Profi-Pack kits generally represent pretty good value compared with buying additional after-market sets.

All the best

Rowan
mpalao
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Posted: Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 02:27 AM UTC
Thank you Merlin, I see this option also. The Bristol F.2B Fighter (PE 1/48) in Poland its is another option. But this kit is for Roden model. OK. I'm thinking about all options. Thank you very much. Jack Flash says is very important to replace several items. I suppose this items I can replace to use the profipack or the Poland kits PE ?

OK, the first problem ,... to decide which is the best combination to buy. Roden + kits Poland; or Eduard Profipack or Eduard simple model 1:48 + another kits PE.

Ok I need to study this. great problem.

Thanks



penpen
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Posted: Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 06:18 AM UTC
hello Miguel !

From what I red further up, you are building your first model. Did I understand well ?
Then, beware with PE ! It's not that easy to use !

mpalao
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Posted: Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 09:07 AM UTC
Hello penpen. sorry but I don`t undertand very well your answer. You are trying to say me that is better to work without PE items.
Ok, yes this is my firts aircraft model for WWI. But I prefer to make with several details, because I love this aircraft. Is it very difficult to work with PE items?

Thanks
Merlin
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Posted: Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 10:30 AM UTC
Hi Miguel

Anthony is correctly concerned by your first post:

Quoted Text

In this moment, I have in my hands the revell u-boat u-99, for me this is my first model, I hope finished as well as possible. But later, I'm thinking to make any WWI aircrafts, for example the Bristol F2.B...



It's all to easy to get carried away with the possibilties that etched details and aftermarket sets offer - but it's vital to get the basics in place first.

If you've never built a WW1 aircraft before, I'd seriously suggest you keep things simple - and, to be honest, an F.2B isn't a simple aircraft... be it Roden or Eduard - with or without etched details.

We might be just misunderstanding you, but if you've never built a bi-plane before, something with minimal rigging like a Fokker D.VII could make a more suitable and equally exciting way to begin building WW1 aircraft.

All the best

Rowan
mpalao
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Posted: Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 07:28 PM UTC
Ok. Merlin Thank you very much. I'm thinking about your words. Yes this is my first model aircraft WWI. It's possible that I need to start with another aircraft more simple.

Ok let me think about this.

Thnak you very much.
TedMamere
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Posted: Sunday, July 24, 2005 - 08:11 PM UTC
Hi Miguel!

I think Anthony and Rowan are right! If you are making your first biplane model, try not to make one that is too complicated! We have talked about that recently in a thread called The Diktat of superdetailling and accuracy!
It's not that we think you are not talented! But even the best modelers here have begun with simple kits! I personaly have build kits that where to difficult (resin parts, PE parts etc...) as I returned to the hobby some years ago and I want to throw them in the garbage now! Don't go too fast! Learn the basics on easy kits!
Try a biplane with little rigging first (the 1/48 CR.42 from Italieri or a Fokker Dr1 for example) and once you'r comfortable with these kind of kits, then go for you F.2B Fighter!

Jean-Luc

P.S. I have bought an Aeroclub SE.2b kit some years ago... needless to say it is still in the box!
mpalao
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Posted: Tuesday, July 26, 2005 - 10:04 AM UTC
Thanks Tedmamere, Ok when I finish my u-boat, I decided what is model to make it. The Sopwich, fokker or another, but later the Bristol I need to make it. It is neccesary for my body. It's a beutiful aircraft for me.
Thanks
mpalao
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Posted: Thursday, September 29, 2005 - 08:48 AM UTC
Hi, sorry, I had impatient about the model to buy. Well, I saw several IWW aircrafts in the shop and it was impossible for me to resist.
I have bought the Eduard bristol f.2b profipack and I would like to know which are the steps for a sure construction especially for the unions fuselage-wings.

You can say me that additional elements (brass wire)
I need in order to build this aircraft.

Thanks
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