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Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Eduards Neiuport 11
Repainted
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Östergötland, Sweden
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Posted: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 - 01:18 PM UTC
Hi
I was delighted to find this forum. Early birds is rare in other forums.I found my runway.

This one is my latest
as the topic says,its a Neiuport 11 non profi.
I fabricated an new seat and engine cowl, the engine got wired.Riggings in gold-zack, turnbuckles made off Q-tips.



painted in humbrols



Hope u like em
Lars
TedMamere
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Moselle, France
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Posted: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 - 05:10 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hope u like em



Hi Lars!

Welcome to armorama

I like your Nieuport very much! Do you have close up photos to share? I especially would like to see the figure wich is barely visible. The idea of putting only small dots of terrain were the model meets the base is also very original!
The fabric effect of the surfaces is very well rendered. I'm looking forward to see many more of your work!

Jean-Luc
Repainted
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Östergötland, Sweden
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Posted: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 - 05:46 PM UTC
thanks
The pilot was hard to paint,but it´s come with the kit,so what.


The lewisgun from Roden Bristol fighter was used. I did plan to use Parts set of Lewisguns, but they was way to big.


I´d vac an new cower,the kitpart didn´t fit.


Thanks for your response
newtothegame
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Washington, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 - 07:10 PM UTC
Very nice work Lars. I too think the idea for very small areas of ground is an excellent one. I really like your wood propellor detail - wow!
Leon
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 - 05:12 AM UTC
Please tell us your method for the shadowing of the wing and the highlighting of the spars and ribs.
TedMamere
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Moselle, France
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Posted: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 - 11:15 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Please tell us your method for the shadowing of the wing and the highlighting of the spars and ribs.



That's what I meant by...


Quoted Text

The fabric effect of the surfaces is very well rendered.



:-) I would like to know too...

Jean-Luc
Repainted
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Östergötland, Sweden
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Posted: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 - 07:47 PM UTC
Hi
The method i use to paint wings.
first a basecote of Humbrol 64 grey, and when this was dry i masked of the ribs with fine strips of maskingtape.

then i sprayed fine lines with the airbruch on the tapelines with a mix of black and brown. Do not use pure black its to strong,after drying i´d removed the tape.

After 12 hours of drying i clean up the wing from residue of tape with clinic petrol.
Now on with the paint you need on yours bird Pc 10,12..
Dilute the final paint almost to much. You need the "see thru effect" Stop when you like the effect.
I think its called "Preshading"
cheers Lars
( you have to live with my broken english :-)
tija
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United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 - 10:00 PM UTC
Beautiful work Lars! You have inspired me to start my Nieuport. Love the decals. Where did you get them?

Bill S.
Repainted
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Östergötland, Sweden
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Posted: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 - 10:37 PM UTC
It´s suplied in Eduard kit 8069,a non profipac,hope you find it.

Cheers
Lars
csch
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Buenos Aires, Argentina
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Posted: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 - 10:43 PM UTC
Welcome aboard Lars. Very nice job.
I´m begining to fall in love with WW1 AC. That will be terrible because I don´t know where to keep my stash if it baegan to grow again :-)
Repainted
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Östergötland, Sweden
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Posted: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 - 11:03 PM UTC
Thanks Carlos
I have the problem with the stash. "To much to build, so little time" :-) :-)

Its faster to buy,than build
Cheers
Lars
Holdfast
Staff MemberPresident
IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 - 11:43 PM UTC
Hi Lars, welcome to Armorama
A wonderful Neiuport and a great explanation of how you did the wings, thanks. It is great to see more WW1 models here, especially as I am about to build my first one, an Eduard Sopwith Camel
Hope to see more of you work soon.
Mal
PolarBear
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Västra Götaland, Sweden
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Posted: Thursday, April 06, 2006 - 12:29 AM UTC
Snyggt bygge, Lars!!

Great to see that you found your way to armorama! Love the shading technique on the wings. I've got to try that that sometime!

Välkommen!
Repainted
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Posted: Thursday, April 06, 2006 - 12:39 AM UTC
Thanks for the respons. Yes i´ve have more pics to send in.Keep gluing guys.
Cheers
Lars
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
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Posted: Saturday, April 08, 2006 - 04:11 PM UTC
See an old bone like me (50yrs young) can learn new tricks!
mpalao
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Madrid, Spain / España
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Posted: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 - 09:22 PM UTC
Lars, it is a great model, fantastic. I am planning to build this model. I have the box (Eduard Nieuport 11-profipack), but I have any questions for you or for anyone. Please help me.
In your model I need to know the paint colours than you used. what is meant PC10 or PC11 ? I normaly use Tamiya or Model Master paints, I need to know the paint mix for to have the PC10 or PC11 or I can obtain these colours directly ?.

Lars, in your model I see only one colour. It is similar to "sail colour". You can say me the paint colour used in the fuselage or wings..?

And the last question is the wood grain colour in the propeller. I suppose your propeller is a plastic piece. So, what is the method to paint this propeller in order to obtain a wood grain aspect. I don´t know?

Thank for all people. and Thanks.
Lucky13
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Scotland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, July 04, 2006 - 10:42 PM UTC
Kalas bygge Lars!!
If my Nieuport 17 of Charles Nungesser will look half as good as this one, I'd happy...
Repainted
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Östergötland, Sweden
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Posted: Wednesday, July 05, 2006 - 01:02 AM UTC
Hi Miguel

Quote
” Lars, in your model I see only one colour. It is similar to "sail colour". You can say me the paint colour used in the fuselage or wings..?” Quote


You are absolutely right Miguel, its sail coloured, I´ve use the term CDL (Short for Clear doped Linen) The paint i´ve used on this plane is a mix of a couple of Humbrol enamels.

The number is Flat Linen 74, or flat pale yellow 81.This yellow colour was mixed with a small amount of black 33 and a small amount of Leather 62.
Why mixing colours. I don not like the colours as they are in the tin. They almost everytime looks to strong. By mixing them I can make my own colour more subtle or faded. I can also mixing them too get different shadings where i´ve want them on the plane. I´ve used to paint a lot of figures before I started building these early birds.

What i´ve was explaining in the Nieuport thread was my painting technique in general. So Pc 10 or Pc 12 you will found on other plane, mostly British ones. The Pc 10 and 12 are a light green or brownish green colour. If you look in to my DH-2 thread you’ve find my attempt to paint Pc10. My mix for the DH-2 was flat light olive 86, and Matt Ochre 83. 40% Olive, 60% Ochre.
For Pc 12 mix in some reddish brown to the Pc 10 mix.

Quote
And the last question is the wood grain colour in the propeller. I suppose your propeller is a plastic piece. So, what is the method to paint this propeller in order to obtain a wood grain aspect? I don´t know?Quote


The engine cowling is painted in Humbrol metalcote polished aluminium 27002, Gunmetal 27004, after 30minuts of drying, buffed up with my sleeve.

The Propeller
I paint the propellers in oilcolours. I start with a basecolour of Humbrol. Any light brown will do. After its dried I am starting to paint it in oils. Mixing Light ochre with Burnt Umber, thinning the mix out with some white spirit. The technique here is to put on the oilcolour with a small brush, then wipe of the access paint from the brush on a cloth, and continue to paint out the oil. You have plenty of time to do this, about three days I guess. After complete drying seal it with some clear varnish.


Good luck with your build of the Bebe, that goes for you to Jan

Cheers
Lars
mpalao
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Madrid, Spain / España
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Posted: Thursday, July 06, 2006 - 02:09 AM UTC
Thank you very much Lars for your good explanation. I take note about your comments. There are very useful for me. Your models are fantastic. I'm thinking about any paint method for to pre-share on the lower and upper surface in the sopwith camel for example. You know that in the upper surface of the wing, the main colour is nearly green colour in this aircraft. In order to make the pre-sharing method with masking tape strips, I don´t know what colour base I could to use before to apply the green final colour. I'm going to try your method. Do you have any idea for to apply it with this colour? Thanks Lars to help me and....
Regards from Spain.
Khan-Dam
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Charente-Maritime, France
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Posted: Thursday, July 06, 2006 - 12:36 PM UTC
Terific !

the wings transparency effect was wonderful

i've made the same kit and i saw that people have different approch of the painting for the same plane

Cheers.

Khan-Dam
Repainted
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Östergötland, Sweden
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Posted: Friday, July 07, 2006 - 03:28 PM UTC
Hi guys
Look for my thread "working on the DH-2" Go back a page.
You will find a explaining of the preshading tecnique ivé use.
I use Humbrol grey 64 often for basecoat on the topwings. The preshading are done with a mix of Black 33 and brown 110.
Cheers
Lars
mpalao
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Madrid, Spain / España
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Posted: Sunday, July 09, 2006 - 10:38 PM UTC
Thanks Lars, one question more, please. I think this base colour (grey) is when the finish colour is Doped Linen or similar but when the colour finished is RFC green for example (Se5a, or sopwith camel) I suppose that I need to change this colour or not?
Thanks Lars. regards.
Repainted
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Östergötland, Sweden
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Posted: Sunday, July 09, 2006 - 11:07 PM UTC
Hi Miguel
I mostly use the grey basecoat, it works find under the green to. remember to thin out the top colour little extra.
As you can see on the topwing on this Albatros DIII it works with grey, do not change it...

Kindly
Lars
Lucky13
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Scotland, United Kingdom
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Posted: Sunday, July 09, 2006 - 11:08 PM UTC
Looking great Boss!
mpalao
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Madrid, Spain / España
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Posted: Thursday, July 13, 2006 - 02:57 AM UTC
Thanks Lars for your reply. Please check your private message, I send you one message.Thanks. and Happy modelling.

Your explanation is a great help for me. Thanks Lars.
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