Greetings all;
As the build continues I have decided to replace the simplistic Eduard guns in this kit with some resin items. Also the companion build of the Blue Max fuselage requires a scratchbuilt instrument panel. I would have posted some images but I forgot and closed up the fuselage before remembering to photograph it.

Also note that the JGMT cylinder heads need to be modified to take two pushrods instead of one.

Greetings
Next week the job starts again, and it’s time to take up the hobby again. Yes, i´ve had built some under my vacation, but nothing serious, just giving some time to some long living project. The Sea Camel is up on the bench again.
So here is it again

The office is soon to be closed up between the fuselage halves. All the bits is painted and sub assembled (not all on the dash in this pics)

The upperwing needs the eye brackets for the lifting cables. You find good references on this in datafile no 6, page 12.I drilled four holes 1,5 mm( 0,0591 in) diameter. The Bracket is made from a well known red and white sodacan. The bracket will be glued in the centre of the hole, and then the remaining of the hole will be filled with Milliput to close what’s left of the hole.


Yours
Lars Q

Greetings all;

Don't forget that the right side gun breech cut out needs to be plugged for the 2F.1. Here is a standard F.1 showing the area. Mine is already closed up.

Greetings all;

As most of you know I am working on two Sopwith 2F.1 build. One involves the Eduard Profipack and the other involves bits and pieces from the Blue Max kit. ( I happened to come across the sales receipt when doing the BM kit...$49.95 back in 1998. Eagads!)

The Eduard Profipack build as mentioned has some faux paux's with the profiles.

As it turns out the cowling and upper deck in the Blue Max kit seems to only be useful for the prototype N5 with the Clerget. It had the normal F.1 type cowling with no overlap of the upper deck on to the cowling.

All production 2F.1 types evidently had the overlap deck / cowling whether they had the Bentley or Clerget rotary engines. This overlap deck / cowling was of a larger cross-section and allowed for the bigger Bentley. This is an opinion of mine as I have been pouring over some images, Titus plan drawings and the book "The Camel File."

This being the case the scheme for N6602 in the Blue Max kit is inappropriate as it should have the overlap deck / cowling.

Also in the Blue Max kit it shows the external routing for the elevator cables. This is good for the production types but not for ther prototype.

In short the Blue Max kit has the front end of the prototype N5 and the rear end of a production model 2F.1. Also the crankcase only has positions for seven of the needed 9 cylinders.

The Eduard kit uses the F.1 fuselage but they give you the parts and the instructions to alter it to the production 2F.1 type.

It appears that the basic Eduard kit (#8059) has the profile / colour scheme for N5. I'll check on that later and see if they indeed give to the F.1 deck and cowling or the production 2F.1 only.

The dash is corrected in the way Stephen pointed out. I’m not sure if the correction could be seen on a finished Camel.



The fuselage halves are glued together. Now to fit in the top piece, the engine cower will take some thinning out to get a tight fit.



Yours
Lars

Hey Lars! Very cool instrument panel! In your image of the fuselage & lower wings, I note you ran into the same problem as I did on the Eduard kit. Note the slight gap at the rear of the cockpit upper deck as it unites with the fuselage spine. I did some quick figuring and found that the opening for the oil tank spout would not line up with the spout itself. But mine had to go all the way back or the cowling would not line up. My resolution was to cut down the tank spout and push the deck all the way back. The PE fillercap facade still fits but only catches part of the tank spout. Since it covers the hole it cant be readily seen as a fixed problem.

Hi Stehpen
Yes, I cut have cut off the fuel cap, and will replace it after I lined up the top.
Lars

Greetings all;

As touted, promised and mentioned. On the Eduard kit we have the next progression in the alteration of the JGMT resin rotary into a simulated Bentley BR.1 150hp rotary (as seen on many RNAS & later RAF Camels.)

Here is the rear view of the Eduard 2F.1...inprogess.

Here is the Blue Max kit 2F.1 pieces (left over from a build ten years ago of an F.1) The Blue Max kit came with enough pieces to build one of two possible types. You could build either the F.1 or 2F.1.

I am taking the Blue Max pieces and augmeting them with a basket case Eduard Camel kit. The original prototype 2F.1 was serialled N5 and was little more than an an F.1 fuselage with internal rigging through the rear fuselage and a single Vickers. Though the wings were The shortened versions.

Here is the stock Eduard Clerget in the Blue Max fuselage.

Here was the fun part. The grey areas of the Blue max center section needed to be trimmed down to match the Eduard outer wing panels.

Greetings all;
In reference to the topic of this thread I have tried to focus on the Eduard 2F.1 kit and a side by side build of the Blue Max 2F.1 kit parts augmented with parts from a basket case Eduard kit. Lars has joined in with his own fine build.

That said it may be obvious to you that the F.1 and the 2F.1 have some major differences. Another identifyer for the builder is the cabane struts. First, the cabanes are the struts that connect the fuselage to the upper wings. The 2F.1 types were from a narrower streamlined cross section tubing than those found on the F.1 types.

The landing gear struts / legs were also different depending on the manufacturer and batch for both the F.1 and the 2F.1. There were some of the 2F.1 types that had the jettisonable landing gear and inflatable floatation cells for emergency water landings. When deciding on a scheme and if you want reasonable accuracy, always check your references.

Hey
For this update I replaced the Eduard Wickers gun for a etched from Parts. This set from Parts is a gem. Some sanding to get the new gun to go in proper position.I know it´s little low in the back, will fix that then the gluingtimes come.






As you can see Stephen I put in a spacer of plasticard at the back of the top, to get the fit proper.Photos of that later
The next job will be too make some pulleys and wires for the inspection panels. I will fill the bottom of the hole with Humbrol Clearfix, insert a pulley and wires, the on the top we cloe it up with some clear plastic film.

Cheers
Lars Q

Have started a take off plattform in plasticard for the finished Seacamel

Hey Lars ! Very cool Vickers machine gun. I do like the Parts of Poland pieces.

I had a question concerning the Blue Max build from Brian Young;

"...Greetings Stephen, The rear cockpit deck on your Blue Max kit looks like it has been separated from the front section and the cuts are uneven, why?

Hey Brian, Just to keep myself busy I like to build parts up and often have several fuselages in the ready just to add wings,a bit of colour and some rigging. The Blue Max fuselage was left over from a kit that I purchased from a model Fleamarket. Some parts were damaged by the previous owner who then sold the kit for a few dollars. I built the undamaged parts many years ago into the F.1 version and when I had some optional parts left over from a basket case Eduard kit I figured it was time to use some initiative to build the Blue Max kit.

Greetings all;

I have just united both builds top wings to their respective fuselages. I replaced the kit cabane struts with the airfoil cross-sectioned brass from "STRUTZ." When working with brass I also like to use hobby black to give the brass pieces a surface etched patine that lets paint adhere well. (A little tip from our model railroading neighbours.) But you should use baking soda to neutralize the hobby black then begin painting these items. As with all Eduard Camels I use a pinning method to secure the interplane (wing tip) struts.

First I use an .080 gauge drill bit (smallest bit in the commercially available sets.) I drill corresponding holes in the strut ends and the strut locator sockets. Then I insert fine brass wire (model railroad items.) No hobby black needed here. Into the strut ends and secure with cyano glue. Then I secure these items at their upper most ends into the upper wing strut locator holes and let them cure. The brass allows for some adjustments even after they are secure to the lower wing sockets. From there it is easy to install cabane struts.

This system can be modified by adding the cabane struts first then the outer wing interplane struts. The trick is to have all struts the exact length needed. Using the Eduard kit items is the best choice to match any scratchbuilt items. The resulting structure is remarkably strong. I have tried the kit suggested method with disappointing results.

Greetings all;
Just finished the rigging between the wings last night. Have done some touch up to the areas for the rigging pilot holes and added the wing cockades. Next I will finish the wing rigging (control horns & thread lines.) After that the landing gear ant he tail units and their rigging.

Also I need a bit of help. I am looking for a spare set of markings for the basic Eduard kit of the 2F.1 #8059 will be glad to pay for them.

Greetings all;
Concerning the Profipack kit #8058.
This build is coming along nicely. The profi pack build needs some tail and under carriage rigging and a couple of minor touch ups. Note this is my own kit so I don't feel any obligation to stick to a specific marking scheme.

Since everyone has done scheme “A” ( I counted 5 reviews on the internet with this scheme. See the box art.) Scheme “B” has some serious questions to it. Scheme “C” is another plain Jane in PC 10, so I decided to try a scheme from Eduard’s kit #8059. I chose 2F, N6602 used on the HMS Nairana (Dec 1917) , Lion (Jan 1918) Furious, and Glorious (April 1918), Caroline (Sept 1918), Caledon (Nov 1918) and back to HMS Nairana by Jan 1919. There were several land based assignments in between shipboard use as well. Its engine was a Bentley BR.1 150hp.

The white cross hatch / netting marking on the original fuselage of this machine was probably done for identification purposes. photos posting by next week.

Concerning the Blue Max / Eduard kit crash;
This build is almost as far along as the Profipack. The lack of an elevator has me scratchbuilding one. The landing gear had to be scratchbuilt as well.

Due to the basic layout of the undercarriage legs I chose to used bent and cut brass rod. Then I added some plastic airfoil shaped strut stock by cutting off the leading edge of the plastic airfoil and then cut sections and blended them onto the bent brass rod.

Because the Blue Max kit uses the F.1 type of engine and upper forward cowling I decided to mark it as the 2F.1 prototype N5. The Eduard kit #8059 decal profile is for this machine at Martlesham Heath in March 1917. My build represents this machine on 7 June 1917. The top wing has been changed to a three piece version by this time and several other goodies have been added from that time period.

Discussing markings.

Decals for Blue Max kit #109:
A. Is an F.1 B7270 flown by Capt A.R. Brown of 209 Sqdn, Bertangles France. There are several renditions of this machine. On 21 April 1918 Capt Brown and his 209 flight, flew in combat against elements of JG1. Brown was given official credit for downing Rittmeister Manfred von Richthofen, the Red Baron. Current research is in conflict as to who did the deed but, Capt. Brown got the credit.

B. Is an 2F.1, N6602 used on the HMS Nairana (Dec 1917) , Lion (Jan 1918) Furious, and Glorious (April 1918), Caroline (Sept 1918), Caledon (Nov 1918) and back to HMS Nairana by Jan 1919.) There were several land based assignments in between shipboard use as well. Its engine was a Bentley BR.1 150hp.

The scheme for N6602 in relation the Blue Max kit is inappropriate as it should have the overlap deck / cowling and the kit has the earlier F.1 set up. Also there is evidence that the cross hatching / fishnet markings wrap over the fabric cover spine at least. The Blue Max decals only cover the fuselage sides.

Continuing the decals

Decals for Eduard kit #8059:

A. Is for 2F 1, N7149 is the last of a fifty machine amended order from Beardmore. The airframe was completed by sub-contractor Arrol-Johnson Ltd. Photographed at Turnhouse aerodrome Jan. 30, 1919. Engine was a Bentley BR.1 150hp.

B. Is for N5, the prototype for the Sopwith 2F.1 series . The kit profile is for this machine at Martlesham Heath in March 1917. My here build represents this machine from 7 June 1917.

Note!! If you are using the just Eduard 8059 kit, to accurately convert to the prototype N5 with a Clerget 9B 130hp rotary you could use a left over cowling from an earlier issue‘Eduard’ Sopwith Camel and cut off the front of the upper deck.

C. Is for 2F.1, N6602 used on the HMS Nairana (Dec 1917) , Lion (Jan 1918) Furious, and Glorious (April 1918), Caroline (Sept 1918), Caledon (Nov 1918) and back to HMS Nairana by Jan 1919.) There were several land based assignments in between shipboard use as well. Its engine was a Bentley BR.1 150hp.

In this case Eduard continued the cross hatch / fishnet over the whole spine.

Hi
My Camel 2F.1 project has to take a break,do to my entry in the Early bird contest. The Camel will return to the bench in December
Regards
Lars

Here finally is the Blue Max / Eduard kit crash. Built as the 2F.1 prototype N5. Since this and the others were taken I have added the simulated metal flash guard to the lower wings. (So the Le Prieur rockets would not ignite the wings fabric when launched.)

Here is the Profipack #8058 build with the 8059 decals. Done as N6602.