Greetings all;
As an ongoing look at detailing it is only natural that we eventually get around to discussing various aftermarket items that have been and are available. For WWI aviation we have a fine history of parts and pieces that enhance the look if a basic kit to a high degreee.
Harry Woodman gave us the parts sold even today by Fotocut and are amoung the first such subjects of WWI design.
Eduard began their rise to fame as the PE smithies of model kits. Their PE is in many cases is simply the best.
Part of Poland is the modern super detail masters and rival Eduard with High quality detail sets.
I will mention other companies as we go along here but the main thrust will be a general "how to on photoetch. "
First Part of Poland excels high detailed interior sets. This is their Early Fokker D.VII set.
Here is what I built it into.
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Early Aviation 1:48 Photoetch frets 101
JackFlash
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Posted: Monday, January 29, 2007 - 08:19 AM UTC
JackFlash
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Posted: Monday, January 29, 2007 - 08:27 AM UTC
The Part of Poland fret 48 127 was built for the Roden early Schwerin Fokker D.VII. Here is the basic framing.
JackFlash
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Posted: Monday, January 29, 2007 - 08:32 AM UTC
Here is the same frame with most of the PE details added from the set and the plastic kit it was built for. I am building this as a stand alone piece. The white rear fuselage was added from sheet plastic and serves as a great method of handling the piece without damaging , bending the brass parts.
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Monday, January 29, 2007 - 09:07 AM UTC
One more angle.
BadBoyFLSTC
California, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 04:36 AM UTC
I'm confused. The name of the company who produces that set is "Poland"?
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 - 04:42 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm confused. The name of the company who produces that set is "Poland"?
Hey Nils,
That is "Part of Poland"
BadBoyFLSTC
California, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 - 06:30 AM UTC
Can't seem to find them.
MerlinV
Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 - 07:11 AM UTC
PART of Poland etched brass is in my humble opinion the best there is now that you cannot get Fotocut stuff anymore (although one of my old email buddies in the States seems to have links with the Fotocut manufacturers).
There is precisely one (countem, 1) distributer of PART etch in the world. That is Jadarhobby. They are a Polish webstore that have the full PART range, as well as a lot of other stuff (Like KAYAYA resin kits) that is not obtainable elsewhere.
Type Jadarhobby into Google and you should find your way there.
I ordered a heap of stuff from them only yesterday.
Cheers,
Hugh
There is precisely one (countem, 1) distributer of PART etch in the world. That is Jadarhobby. They are a Polish webstore that have the full PART range, as well as a lot of other stuff (Like KAYAYA resin kits) that is not obtainable elsewhere.
Type Jadarhobby into Google and you should find your way there.
I ordered a heap of stuff from them only yesterday.
Cheers,
Hugh
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 - 11:48 AM UTC
Quoted Text
PART of Poland etched brass is in my humble opinion the best there is ... Type Jadarhobby into Google and you should find your way there. I ordered a heap of stuff from them only yesterday.
Cheers,
Hugh
http://www.jadarhobby.waw.pl/part-c-18_24.html
The early aviation stuff begins somewhere on or about page 5.
Familyman
Uusimaa, Finland
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Posted: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 - 02:18 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextPART of Poland etched brass is in my humble opinion the best there is ... Type Jadarhobby into Google and you should find your way there. I ordered a heap of stuff from them only yesterday.
Cheers,
Hugh
http://www.jadarhobby.waw.pl/part-c-18_24.html
The early aviation stuff begins somewhere on or about page 5.
Hugh
Part PEs are not too easy to get, you're right in there. Jadar is not, however, quite the only one to sell them. Karaya seems to have Part PEs also in their net catalogue. See:
http://www.karaya.ceti.pl/
Go to Shop and go on to Wings Accessories 1/72 or 1/48
Mikko
BadBoyFLSTC
California, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 - 10:02 PM UTC
Thanks guys
Nils
Nils
MerlinV
Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, February 01, 2007 - 02:47 AM UTC
Oh, Great Catch!
I'd actually had a look at the Karaya web site and hadn't found that.
After doing some research on Jadarhobby, I decided to go with them anyway...
Am looking forward to getting My frets in the mail...
I'd actually had a look at the Karaya web site and hadn't found that.
After doing some research on Jadarhobby, I decided to go with them anyway...
Am looking forward to getting My frets in the mail...
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Saturday, February 10, 2007 - 10:46 AM UTC
Here is the Nieuport 28 C.1 set from Part of Poland for the Roden kit.
Here is what it looks like in a cutaway of the Roden kit. Its a great fit.
Here is what it looks like in a cutaway of the Roden kit. Its a great fit.
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 - 07:50 AM UTC
Here are the Part of Poland frets for the 1/48 Roden SE 5a.
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 - 04:37 PM UTC
WOW! Folks looks like Part has a new set for the Eduard Camel!
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Thursday, February 15, 2007 - 07:09 AM UTC
Here is one of the several photoetch kits available concerning the ;
German Maxim (Spandau)
German Parabellum
German Maxim (Spandau)
German Parabellum
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Thursday, February 15, 2007 - 04:02 PM UTC
Recently I have had some queries concerning modern Photoetch and its general applications. Generally thought by "fraidy cats" the world over as "The Dark side of the Force" in Modeling. These are very general thoughts but work for me in almost every instance.
It is usually very easy to handle if you follow a couple of guidelines. With pre-painted parts you will want to separate them first or be prepared to repaint them.
1. Use candle or lighter heat to pass the PE metal fret over until you see the temper of the metal change colours. Nickel silver (which is neither nickel or silver) photoetch may take a bit longer to heat compared to plain brass. Just keep a close eye on the colour. Some blueing ok. You want it bendable but avoid making the parts brittle. 15-20 seconds under a heat source is ok but 2 minutes is too much. Also the smaller the part the quicker it will loose temper.
2. Bend as much as you can reasonably do. and paint each part while still on the tree.
3. The clear bag that the PE metal comes in...Is a great tool. While the parts are still on the tree put the fret back in the bag. It is the best time to cut them loose. (Parts will stay in the bag and not fly off into the modeler's black hole. ) Cut the bottom corner out of the bag to allow only the parts you cut from the tree to exit the bag.
4. Use tweezers and an opitvisor. finish forming the part for exact fit by tacking it in place at one end and with the tip of a finger (away from the glue) form the piece to the surface and then finish any glueing needed. Viola!
It is usually very easy to handle if you follow a couple of guidelines. With pre-painted parts you will want to separate them first or be prepared to repaint them.
1. Use candle or lighter heat to pass the PE metal fret over until you see the temper of the metal change colours. Nickel silver (which is neither nickel or silver) photoetch may take a bit longer to heat compared to plain brass. Just keep a close eye on the colour. Some blueing ok. You want it bendable but avoid making the parts brittle. 15-20 seconds under a heat source is ok but 2 minutes is too much. Also the smaller the part the quicker it will loose temper.
2. Bend as much as you can reasonably do. and paint each part while still on the tree.
3. The clear bag that the PE metal comes in...Is a great tool. While the parts are still on the tree put the fret back in the bag. It is the best time to cut them loose. (Parts will stay in the bag and not fly off into the modeler's black hole. ) Cut the bottom corner out of the bag to allow only the parts you cut from the tree to exit the bag.
4. Use tweezers and an opitvisor. finish forming the part for exact fit by tacking it in place at one end and with the tip of a finger (away from the glue) form the piece to the surface and then finish any glueing needed. Viola!
MerlinV
Victoria, Australia
Joined: November 26, 2006
KitMaker: 608 posts
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Joined: November 26, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 07:21 AM UTC
Hi Steve et al,
I just received 4 sets of PART etch in the mail along with my Karaya "Supermarine Seamew"... (Drooooool!)
The Quality of the PART Etch is amazing!
I got the 1/48 SE5a set, the Felixtowe F2a set, The Sopwith 1-1/2 Strutter set and the Vickers Gun set...
I dream of the day that they do Lewis guns in the same way, although, I reckon Rodens Lewis guns in 1/48 are hard to beat!
Cheers,
Hugh
I just received 4 sets of PART etch in the mail along with my Karaya "Supermarine Seamew"... (Drooooool!)
The Quality of the PART Etch is amazing!
I got the 1/48 SE5a set, the Felixtowe F2a set, The Sopwith 1-1/2 Strutter set and the Vickers Gun set...
I dream of the day that they do Lewis guns in the same way, although, I reckon Rodens Lewis guns in 1/48 are hard to beat!
Cheers,
Hugh
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 - 03:18 AM UTC
Greeting all;
The Part of Poland photoetch frets for the Eduard Sopwith Camel arrived today. More later.
The Part of Poland photoetch frets for the Eduard Sopwith Camel arrived today. More later.
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 - 10:34 AM UTC
Here is the Part of Poland A fret for the 1/48 Eduard Camel.
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 - 10:35 AM UTC
Here is the B fret.
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Friday, March 30, 2007 - 05:26 PM UTC
Before photoetch can anyone tell me how modelers used to duplicate the effect of a see through vents on a Spandau or Parabellum?
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 16, 2007 - 08:02 PM UTC
For all things Photoetch...
http://www.just4photoetch.com/
http://www.just4photoetch.com/
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Monday, April 16, 2007 - 08:06 PM UTC
The previous URL has a great section on how to do PE.
http://www.just4photoetch.com/pages/howtotipsmaster/howtobasics.html
http://www.just4photoetch.com/pages/howtotipsmaster/howtobasics.html
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Saturday, April 28, 2007 - 02:12 PM UTC
Also another good PE how to is available on the Eduard website under their info tab.
http://www.eduard.cz
". . .Photo etch detail sets for aircraft scale plastic kits was our first product line. The first set was made for a 1/48th scale Su-25K and was released in 1990. Eduard offers detail sets in three main aircraft scales, 1/72nd, 1/48th and 1/32nd. There are generic parts in all of these sets, which are very popular and very often used to replace the original kit parts. Dashboards are one of them. The photo-etched dashboard provides extremely fine surface texture with details of the instruments and switches. The next popular ones are seatbelts. Seatbelts are included in each set for a specific aircraft. We have seatbelt sets for French, German and British WW I aircraft and also seatbelts for WWII USAF, RAF, Lufftwaffe and Japanese Army and Navy. Each seatbelt set contains various types of belts and buckles for different aircraft. Other interesting parts included are various aerials, gun sights, cables, covers, levers, aileron horns, gun jackets, pulls, rear-view mirrors, rudder pedals, ammunition belts and many, many other small parts which are too small or delicate to be successfully moulded from plastic.
An extra range is sets for landing flaps. These sets contain the flap and all the parts attached to it. Also included are the parts on the wing which can be seen when the flaps are open.
Our newest product is pre-painted photo etch sets. These sets are printed in colour with a high-resolution print. The painted parts are seatbelts and dashboards, with extremely fine surface details and stencils. These painted sets represent a new level of detailing, simply highly realistic. . ."
". . .Template sets are used for making or rescribing the panel lines on the surface of the model. Eduard provides the templates in various shapes and styles, with oblongs, ovals, circles or irregular shapes all with many different sizes. . ."
http://www.eduard.cz
". . .Photo etch detail sets for aircraft scale plastic kits was our first product line. The first set was made for a 1/48th scale Su-25K and was released in 1990. Eduard offers detail sets in three main aircraft scales, 1/72nd, 1/48th and 1/32nd. There are generic parts in all of these sets, which are very popular and very often used to replace the original kit parts. Dashboards are one of them. The photo-etched dashboard provides extremely fine surface texture with details of the instruments and switches. The next popular ones are seatbelts. Seatbelts are included in each set for a specific aircraft. We have seatbelt sets for French, German and British WW I aircraft and also seatbelts for WWII USAF, RAF, Lufftwaffe and Japanese Army and Navy. Each seatbelt set contains various types of belts and buckles for different aircraft. Other interesting parts included are various aerials, gun sights, cables, covers, levers, aileron horns, gun jackets, pulls, rear-view mirrors, rudder pedals, ammunition belts and many, many other small parts which are too small or delicate to be successfully moulded from plastic.
An extra range is sets for landing flaps. These sets contain the flap and all the parts attached to it. Also included are the parts on the wing which can be seen when the flaps are open.
Our newest product is pre-painted photo etch sets. These sets are printed in colour with a high-resolution print. The painted parts are seatbelts and dashboards, with extremely fine surface details and stencils. These painted sets represent a new level of detailing, simply highly realistic. . ."
". . .Template sets are used for making or rescribing the panel lines on the surface of the model. Eduard provides the templates in various shapes and styles, with oblongs, ovals, circles or irregular shapes all with many different sizes. . ."