Unfortunately if it doesnt have tracks or wheels im a bit lost. I want to build a UH-60 depicting a current heli being used by US Forces in Iraq. What type of UH-60's are they using and what kit would I need to get? (i want it 1.35) Also what upgrades if any would I need? Ive seen some bits by Cobra Company aswell as some etched sets by Eduard, I like the look of those colours instrument panels. Im getting nemrods Blackhawk crew thanks to Gino and would like to do some sort of dio of it on a hardstand getting ready to leave the safety of the green zone, maybe have a couple of reporters getting reading to be flown out. Any help would be really appreciated.

Hi Rob. The Academy Blackhawks and Pavehawks are the only ones in 1/35th. They build into decent kits OOB. If you want some super-detailed ones, check out the hawk accessories from Cobra Company. I haven't used any of the Eduard or other PE sets for them, but they look good too.

For a standard Army UH-60L, the current Army type, all you need is the Academy UH-60A/L kit and the Cobra Company UH-60L Correction/Detail set. The kit is closer to an A model. For an L model, the step sponsons in front of the wheels, below the pilot's doors, were widened by about 10" to allow for an added roll stabilizer bar. The kit is also missing the FOD covers on the engine intakes. The CC set comes with the wider step sponsons and new intakes with the FOD covers. The square stabilator in the CC set is not an L model specific part, but is used on MH and HH models. For some great interior details, I recommend the CC UH-60 Blackhawk Detail set.

For a USAF Pavehawk, get the Academy MH-60G PaveHawk kit. It represents an early '90s Pavehawk. To upgrade it, you can use the CC MH/HH-60G Update and Detail set. At the least, you should add the wider sponsons since it is the same airframe as an L model.

For a US Army Special Ops Hawk from the 160th SOAR (Spec Ops Aviation Reg), get the Academy AH-60L DAP kit, actually an MH-60L since the US doesn't use the AH (Attack Helicopter) designation with Blackhawks. You can use any of the above CC sets to update it. Most of the MH/HH-60G set can also be used on it. You will also need the CC SOAR decals to get the appropriate shade of OD for the markings. Academy printed the decals in an awful yellow color.

The DAP kit is the best buy out of the bunch as well. It has the sprues from both the UH-60A/L kit and the MH-60G kit included, plus an extra sprue for the DAP specific parts.

I am currently building an HH-60G from Davis-Monthan AFB in OIF 1. It is in a three-color desert scheme similar to DCUs. Check it out here.

I have done a UH-60L and an MH-60L DAP as well. Check them out at my Photobucket account; UH-60L, MH-60L DAP. You can read a blow-by-blow of it here.

Stand by for a new product from CC for UH-60s soon too. Hint: they are in the pics for my HH-60G.

Let me know if you need any more help.

Be sure to check out the Guardian Angel Helo Campaign over in the Air Campaigns section too.

Good luck.

Since A models are still in use too - at least in the NG unit near me, using the Academy as an A model shouldn't be incorrect. Either way, Squadron's walkround of Blackhawks is very useful. Not sure what modifications have been made in OIF, but its definitely useful. I've done a couple helicopters, so I wish you the best of luck Rob.

Jeff

Gino covered it pretty well, but I’d like to add on also with some construction tips.

The kit builds pretty straight forward, but there are some gap problems and tricky areas that need addressing. The floor sit’s a bit high towards the rear. The problem is that the cargo hook housing (attached to the underside of floor (6) is to tall. You’ll need to cut and sand that just less than a ½ inch. Dry fitting will show this, and suggest doing a little at a time till the floor sits level with the opening of the cargo door.

The biggest headache are the gunners/troop seats, here you’ll need real patience. Each seat consists of 5 pieces, two of which are the support legs that have to be angled. I found that taping the floor, ceiling and sidewall together I was able to build the seats and get the correct angle of the supports.

Under the cockpit floor, area around the nose window is a gap that should be filled in (area in yellow). If not you’ll end up seeing right it from each side.



Um…oh yeah, remember to pay attention to the gunners doors The larger ones (B4 B5) are placed closest to the cargo opening and attached to the bottom rail. I also suggest leaving off many of the smaller parts like the cable cutters, antennas and such so as not to keep knocking them off during the rest of the build up.

The panel lines are engraved, but as they get towards the seam they become weak and lose it’s detail, especially on the nose and under the fuselage. This is easily corrected by simply rescribing them.

All in all this the Academy/ MRC and Italeri 60’ series Hawks are great to build, again pretty straight forward, and you'll have a great time a it.

Joe

Hi,

Just wondered if you're still working this. I flew in UH-60L between the Green Zone LZ and the Camp Victory LZ on "Coyote Airlines" back in February 06. I have some photos of UH-60s taking off from Camp Victory. I would need to locate them, they are digital and should be on my home PC. I'm at .........work now I also have a video from inside a UH-60 on the Camp Vistoy to Green Zone route. It is not much for building a UH-60, but I think it wil show the appearance of the LZ in the Green Zone.

Jeff

Depending on the time period, you may want to look at adding inlet filters. I do not believe there are any after market kits that represent them, so you'd have to make these yourself.

Hey,
I jumped in this kind of late but I thought that I may add a bit to what has been said already. Prior to OIF III (mid 2005) the Inlet Barrier Filters were not standard equipment. I have heard that they quit putting them on A's alltogether because they couldn't afford the power loss caused by the filters. It was also around the same time frame that the M240G replaced the M60D door guns.

The main rotor blades definately need work. The kit has a lump molded along the leading edge that sticks out about two scale inches that is WAY overdone. It really needs to be worked down quite a bit to be accurate but at least sand the inboard and outboard ends of this lump so that it has a gradual beginning and end, this will make it pass the casual comparrison test.

Truth is though, if you just widen the step fairings, close off the holes behind the chin bubbles, fix the blades and fix the floor, you will get something that looks right.

I have never used the CC set, so I don't know what all it corrects.

Maybe more later, the little one is awake now.

Mac