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Air Campaigns
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Hosted by Frederick Boucher, Michael Satin
OFFICIAL: Land of the Rising Sun Campaign
Jessie_C
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British Columbia, Canada
Joined: September 03, 2009
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Posted: Wednesday, July 16, 2014 - 02:20 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Well, I'll certainly be following, Jonathan. I wonder if the Doyusha kit is a re-box of this YS-11.


No, it's completely different, and much more crude than the Hasegawa.

Jonathan, watch for poor fit of the engine nacelles to the wings. I had to shim the sides of mine to keep them from slopping back and forth. That was the only "gotcha" of the build.
JClapp
#259
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: October 23, 2011
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Posted: Thursday, July 17, 2014 - 11:11 AM UTC
I got a start on the JMSDF YS-11 today.
this is the only kit Ive ever seen that includes nose weights and an engineered mount for them.


Jess, the wing to engine nacelle join is exactly as you said, looks like about .012 gap.

fabricated shims from sheet stock


airframe complete, a good days work. Beautifully made kit - with the exception of the above noted gap, every other joint is perfect and no filler is required anywhere.


the kit has decals and parts for two options, the YS-11M is
a military transport for carrying personnel between bases within Japan.


The YS-11T a sub hunting radar trainer. As such, she is the little sister of JMSDF's P-3C Orion.

With a bit of luck, (and depending on pending work proposal) I hope to be able to pose them together before end of August.

edit to add, this exact kit is currently available from several vendors in the $30-35 range.
tinbanger
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: February 04, 2008
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Posted: Saturday, July 19, 2014 - 07:36 AM UTC
Next step mask and prime:-

JClapp
#259
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: October 23, 2011
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Posted: Sunday, July 20, 2014 - 04:55 PM UTC
The YS-11 in primer. it looks very good. almost too easy.




Ive also gotten started on the P-3C Orion. This kit does not come with nose weight, though it does say you need 15g. and indicates the hollow nose cone, but a 15g hunk of lead isnt going in there. anyway there's a fine empty space behind the cockpit.

JClapp
#259
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: October 23, 2011
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Posted: Sunday, July 20, 2014 - 07:06 PM UTC
The P-3C is all together and in primer now.
this one didnt go together quite as well as the YS-11. The kit is at least 20 years older after all. there are some seams that will require attention.


eMan
#298
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Hong Kong S.A.R. / 繁體
Joined: August 08, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 - 07:35 PM UTC
Some progress shot of Macross VF-1S.



Removed by original poster on 07/26/14 - 00:03:31 (GMT).
thewrongguy
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: October 17, 2002
KitMaker: 448 posts
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Posted: Friday, July 25, 2014 - 12:04 PM UTC
Making some slow progress. The cowl is out in the garage which is a shame because it probably turned out nicer then the rest of the airframe.



So far just a base of Alclad Aluminium and some Tamiya IJN Grey for the fabric control surfaces. I plan on masking off some panels on the underside to paint in different shades. For a first bare metal finish I'd give it a "B". Definitely room for improvement.

I finally decided on markings. I thought if the finish on the topside came out perfect I'd go with option 2. If it was bad I'd go with option 1. In the end I'm going with option 1 because I just like it better.



Thanks for looking.

Jeff

JClapp
#259
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Massachusetts, United States
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Posted: Saturday, July 26, 2014 - 05:05 AM UTC
Jeff, that Alcad job looks dam good from here

These guys are now covered in Modelmaster gloss Gull Grey enamel.
It went on kind of thick, and I think it will take several days to harden.





damoore46
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Ohio, United States
Joined: January 28, 2008
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Posted: Saturday, July 26, 2014 - 06:57 AM UTC
Jeff, that is really well done. I like the all aluminum look, but do what you like best. Either way, I am anxious to see what the final outcome is going to be!
RedwingNev
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: February 07, 2004
KitMaker: 911 posts
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Posted: Sunday, July 27, 2014 - 08:03 AM UTC
Nice pair Jonathon, will look great together when done.

And I say this every time I post, but I will do some modelling soon!
PrickleHead
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: December 31, 2013
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Posted: Sunday, July 27, 2014 - 10:25 PM UTC
Hi all had issues with my Hayate so I am going with Tamiya's Rufe:



PeteDoc
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Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: April 10, 2012
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Posted: Monday, July 28, 2014 - 07:58 AM UTC
With you there Pricklehead! My Hayate has some really poor fitting parts - it's doing my head in and I've almost got to the stage of just throwing it together without being too fussy. Don't know if I'll reach the finish line!
JClapp
#259
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: October 23, 2011
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Posted: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 05:05 PM UTC
I kick myself!
I knew that grey paint was still too soft to paint over! Even after five days it still smells uncured. I should have let it sit for another week.

about 20 seconds after I started putting white on it, it started to wrinkle up.

dont know what Im going to do with this.
RussellE
#306
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Victoria, Australia
Joined: June 27, 2010
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Posted: Wednesday, July 30, 2014 - 11:00 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I kick myself!
I knew that grey paint was still too soft to paint over! Even after five days it still smells uncured. I should have let it sit for another week.
about 20 seconds after I started putting white on it, it started to wrinkle up.

dont know what Im going to do with this.

Hi Jonathon. I am sorry to see what has happened. This looks like a bad reaction between acrylic and enamels???
JClapp
#259
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Massachusetts, United States
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2014 - 06:38 AM UTC
no they are both enamel, but different brands. the grey is Model Master and the white is Tamiya . The Grey it taking forever to cure. I can still smell the solvent coming out of it. I think Testors is committed to low volatile, low toxicity solvent and it takes weeks to dry completely.
The solvent in the Tamiya paint by contrast is very agressive and very volatile, and it attacked the still soft Model master.

Today, the white is rock hard, and the grey is still gassing off.

Since its only the top of the fues and the tail, I think i will be able to very carefully block sand the white down and get the wrinkles off and re-apply it. fingers crossed.

I actually considered doing the white first. I wish i had. If I had done that there would have been no problem.
PeteDoc
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Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: April 10, 2012
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2014 - 07:11 AM UTC
You might be better off stripping the lot with oven cleaner and starting again. Had to do it with a Stuka a while back, but it worked fine.
JClapp
#259
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Massachusetts, United States
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2014 - 09:41 AM UTC
Im ok with stripping, Ive done it plenty of times. but the rest of the grey on the plane looks really nice, so I want to see what I can do before starting over.

anyway Im going set it aside for at least a week before I go at it again. plenty of other irons in the fire.
RussellE
#306
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Victoria, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2014 - 10:47 AM UTC

Quoted Text

no they are both enamel, but different brands. the grey is Model Master and the white is Tamiya . The Grey it taking forever to cure. I can still smell the solvent coming out of it. I think Testors is committed to low volatile, low toxicity solvent and it takes weeks to dry completely.
The solvent in the Tamiya paint by contrast is very agressive and very volatile, and it attacked the still soft Model master.

Today, the white is rock hard, and the grey is still gassing off.

Since its only the top of the fues and the tail, I think i will be able to very carefully block sand the white down and get the wrinkles off and re-apply it. fingers crossed.

I actually considered doing the white first. I wish i had. If I had done that there would have been no problem.


That's really odd that it is taking so long to dry...

May I enquire as to what you thinned each paint with?
JClapp
#259
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: October 23, 2011
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2014 - 11:40 AM UTC
both rattle cans.
PrickleHead
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: December 31, 2013
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Posted: Thursday, July 31, 2014 - 04:05 PM UTC
Here is my Rufe to date. Masking the canopy was a nightmare! Also kicking myself for not highlighting the panel lines before painting, simply forgot.



RedwingNev
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: February 07, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, August 02, 2014 - 01:52 AM UTC

Quoted Text

both rattle cans.


Sucks to see that happen, have you got somewhere warm you can put the model to speed the drying process?
JClapp
#259
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Massachusetts, United States
Joined: October 23, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, August 02, 2014 - 02:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Sucks to see that happen, have you got somewhere warm you can put the model to speed the drying process?


well - in fact, Im keeping them in the car with the windows rolled up during the day

The YS-11 isnt nearly as bad. The wrinkling isnt uniform, its worst where the paint is thickest. I think the sanding down will go all right. next weekend I'll have a go.


shorty53
#330
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: July 15, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, August 02, 2014 - 08:32 PM UTC
Finished my 1/32 Hasegawa Zero today. I only paid $20 for it so for the money it’s not a bad kit.



tinbanger
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: February 04, 2008
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Posted: Saturday, August 02, 2014 - 11:19 PM UTC
On my Zero the decals are on and now to add detail parts:-

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