I'd like to see her finished as would , I'm sure a lot of others. Bob
Air Campaigns
Want to start or join a group build? This is where to start.
Want to start or join a group build? This is where to start.
Hosted by Frederick Boucher, Michael Satin
Twin Spinner Dornier 217 E-5
whittman181
Joined: December 30, 2006
KitMaker: 646 posts
AeroScale: 67 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 02:42 AM UTC
Howard , I think you are doing a great job I'd like to see her finished as would , I'm sure a lot of others. Bob
I'd like to see her finished as would , I'm sure a lot of others. Bob
alpha_tango
Joined: September 07, 2005
KitMaker: 5,609 posts
AeroScale: 5,231 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 02:53 AM UTC
Quoted Text
So now your saying I can't use a ruler????
I measured all four, they turned out to be the same I then ordered them to those measurements. I understand that the manufacturers don't always get decals right but this is good enough for me. I'm not a total rivet counter and finding a Dornier 217 is pretty difficult to find and measure as they are totally extinct sadly.
I am going to stop posting on this build now as I'm pretty sure one of the landing gear doors is 2 scale mm's out of place.
It looks fine to me, I'm happy with it can't you find someone else to pick on now.
Howard
Hello Howard
I am not sure what to make of this post. All my comments are meant to help and not to attack anyone.
There is plenty of stuff on the Do 217 (of course not comparable to Bf 109 or Fw 190). For modellers e.g. this one is very helpful.
I am glad you are happy, it is all that counts.
o.k and now I am out of this
all the best
Steffen
__dmh__
Joined: December 31, 2007
KitMaker: 33 posts
AeroScale: 32 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 03:30 AM UTC
It looks fantastic to me buddy! 
_H_Dori
Joined: November 09, 2006
KitMaker: 295 posts
AeroScale: 276 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 03:32 AM UTC
Thank you Bob
Steffen, I understand you are a very knowledgeble fellow when it comes to Luftwaffe subjects and I am very new to it all in the grand scheme of things but if I had used the basic paints and no weathering or just the kit decals would you have said the same?
The masks are based on the kit decals, I have some references to 217's but no pictures of this actual aircraft so I am having to rely on Revell (dangerous??:D )
I am after all a new modeller this is only my 7th kit and I'm still learning but no-one else's luftwaffe aircraft were picked up on anything. Is this to say mine is the only incorrect model being built on the whole of Aeroscale?
Howard
Steffen, I understand you are a very knowledgeble fellow when it comes to Luftwaffe subjects and I am very new to it all in the grand scheme of things but if I had used the basic paints and no weathering or just the kit decals would you have said the same?
The masks are based on the kit decals, I have some references to 217's but no pictures of this actual aircraft so I am having to rely on Revell (dangerous??:D )
I am after all a new modeller this is only my 7th kit and I'm still learning but no-one else's luftwaffe aircraft were picked up on anything. Is this to say mine is the only incorrect model being built on the whole of Aeroscale?
Howard
lampie
#029
Joined: December 23, 2005
KitMaker: 6,249 posts
AeroScale: 3,270 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 04:21 AM UTC
Hi Howard.
Only your 7th kit?,,flippin 'eck
Looks very very good. What would we do without those canopy masks eh?
How are you finding the Miracle Masks? I have found that they adhere very well to curved surfaces and havent had any problems with paint bleeding underneath them.
As for accurate models..I doubt very much that there has ever been a 100% accurate model posted on this or any other internet modelling forum.
We model for our own enjoyment, and as such tend to be our own harshest critics
Rivet counting, or lack of it, is very much a personal choice and the extent to which it is taken ( or ignored) is up to the individual modeller.
Keep posting the excellent progress photos!
I hope you'll be joining in with the Thunderbolt Group Build starting soon.
Nige
Only your 7th kit?,,flippin 'eck
Looks very very good. What would we do without those canopy masks eh?
How are you finding the Miracle Masks? I have found that they adhere very well to curved surfaces and havent had any problems with paint bleeding underneath them.
As for accurate models..I doubt very much that there has ever been a 100% accurate model posted on this or any other internet modelling forum.
We model for our own enjoyment, and as such tend to be our own harshest critics
Rivet counting, or lack of it, is very much a personal choice and the extent to which it is taken ( or ignored) is up to the individual modeller.
Keep posting the excellent progress photos!
I hope you'll be joining in with the Thunderbolt Group Build starting soon.
Nige
_H_Dori
Joined: November 09, 2006
KitMaker: 295 posts
AeroScale: 276 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 05:16 AM UTC
Hi Nigel
Thank you for your kind words, to be honest it is this site that has taught me so much. Jean-Luc, Wingman, yourself, Steffen etc have all used techniques that have made me want to try them on my own models. It is a hobby a love and enjoy pretty much every hour or even minute I get. Just wish I could build a bit quicker so I could actually finish a campaign in the alotted time
I really like the miracle masks, although I found them a touch daunting at first. Even thinking that I was maybe pushing myself too far too early. We shall see I'm sure, but I really wanted to try for the true painted on look. I'm very glad they can be easily removed and re-affixed as it took me a while to get the positioning right to my eye. I did get a touch of bleed through but totally my fault as I think I thinned the paint too much (totally novice thing to do, done by a total novice )
I would love to join the Thunderbolt campaign as I have never built a NMF aircraft but I have tinkered a bit with Alclad and read your post in the beginner section.
Sorry for the long reply and thank you again.
Howard
Thank you for your kind words, to be honest it is this site that has taught me so much. Jean-Luc, Wingman, yourself, Steffen etc have all used techniques that have made me want to try them on my own models. It is a hobby a love and enjoy pretty much every hour or even minute I get. Just wish I could build a bit quicker so I could actually finish a campaign in the alotted time
I really like the miracle masks, although I found them a touch daunting at first. Even thinking that I was maybe pushing myself too far too early. We shall see I'm sure, but I really wanted to try for the true painted on look. I'm very glad they can be easily removed and re-affixed as it took me a while to get the positioning right to my eye. I did get a touch of bleed through but totally my fault as I think I thinned the paint too much (totally novice thing to do, done by a total novice
)I would love to join the Thunderbolt campaign as I have never built a NMF aircraft but I have tinkered a bit with Alclad and read your post in the beginner section.
Sorry for the long reply and thank you again.
Howard
Holdfast
President#056
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,581 posts
AeroScale: 4,913 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 09:31 AM UTC
Steffan, I would love to have any information that you would care to let me have for Luftwaffe markings. I am dependent, at the moment, on customers giving me references from which I can produce masks. I must say that it's a bit worrying if Revell get the markings for Luftwaffe subjects wrong 
Howard, I have found that if you position the markings on the edge of the backing paper, half on half off, if you see what I mean, it makes it easier to position. In other words, the backing paper will enable you to keep the markings clear of the surface until you have got the positioning correct. I've not had the chance to add this to the instructions.
I think that I may have forgot to mention that the pair of larger codes are cut from a slightly higher tack material. This is for the benefit of the 2 colour "F", as it is not possibe to cut the thin edge in the normal masking material. I would suggest using the backing paper method for these
Howard you are brave to try the masks, don't worry if you balls any up I'll send you replacements, 'cos I can Many a modeller with many more years experience than you, or I, are too into the comfort of decals to even try painted on markings, but it is the way of the future. Using masks is just like any other skill in modelling, you have to do it to get good at it, good on yer 
Howard, I have found that if you position the markings on the edge of the backing paper, half on half off, if you see what I mean, it makes it easier to position. In other words, the backing paper will enable you to keep the markings clear of the surface until you have got the positioning correct. I've not had the chance to add this to the instructions.
I think that I may have forgot to mention that the pair of larger codes are cut from a slightly higher tack material. This is for the benefit of the 2 colour "F", as it is not possibe to cut the thin edge in the normal masking material. I would suggest using the backing paper method for these
Howard you are brave to try the masks, don't worry if you balls any up I'll send you replacements, 'cos I can
Many a modeller with many more years experience than you, or I, are too into the comfort of decals to even try painted on markings, but it is the way of the future. Using masks is just like any other skill in modelling, you have to do it to get good at it, good on yer 
alpha_tango
Joined: September 07, 2005
KitMaker: 5,609 posts
AeroScale: 5,231 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 10:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Steffan, I would love to have any information that you would care to let me have for Luftwaffe markings. I am dependent, at the moment, on customers giving me references from which I can produce masks. I must say that it's a bit worrying if Revell get the markings for Luftwaffe subjects wrong
Hello Mal
I would love to send you information, but actually my main resources are not here and I cannot get them in a short period of time.
Information can be found in "Luftwaffe Colours 1935 - 1945" by Michael Ullmann (which was just reissued), I have an early Geman softbound edition and I am sure there were information about many types of Markings and explanations. Evenly great (or even better) is Kennet A. Merricks 2 vol. work "Luftwaffe Camouflage and Markings" both contain original drawings for different aircraft types.
I am sorry that I cannot be of more help at the moment
all the best
Steffen
alpha_tango
Joined: September 07, 2005
KitMaker: 5,609 posts
AeroScale: 5,231 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 11:06 AM UTC
this pic is not very good but it shows the difference a bit (the resin oil cooler is still missing. But as you said you wanted your model as a painting testbase, you can probably live with it
cheers
Steffen
lampie
#029
Joined: December 23, 2005
KitMaker: 6,249 posts
AeroScale: 3,270 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 11:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
this pic is not very good but it shows the difference a bit (the resin oil cooler is still missing. But as you said you wanted your model as a painting testbase, you can probably live with it
cheers
Steffen
Did I miss something?
When did the oil coolers become an issue on the kit?
And Ive been through this thread a couple of times now and dont see any mention by Howard of the build being a "painting testbase"?
Looks more like an excellent campaign entry to me.
Nige
_H_Dori
Joined: November 09, 2006
KitMaker: 295 posts
AeroScale: 276 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 11:22 AM UTC
Ahh I know what Steffens talking about
We had a few PM's and I was saying I'd just started the old Revell BF110:
Anyway I said I was going to use the 110 as a bit of a paint test bed for mottling etc.
Hope that makes sense now Nigel.
Howard
We had a few PM's and I was saying I'd just started the old Revell BF110:
Anyway I said I was going to use the 110 as a bit of a paint test bed for mottling etc.
Hope that makes sense now Nigel.
Howard
betheyn
Senior Editor#019
Joined: October 14, 2004
KitMaker: 4,560 posts
AeroScale: 2,225 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 11:24 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Did I miss something?
When did the oil coolers become an issue on the kit?
And Ive been through this thread a couple of times now and dont see any mention by Howard of the build being a "painting testbase"?
Looks more like an excellent campaign entry to me.
Yep, you also have me scratching my head on this one Steffen.
So is the Revell kit wrong then ??
Great build Howard, even if it is a painting testbase and the wrong shape
. Once you get used to Mals Masks you won't want to go back to decals for markings.
Andy
lampie
#029
Joined: December 23, 2005
KitMaker: 6,249 posts
AeroScale: 3,270 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 11:30 AM UTC
AHA!
Now it makes sense!
I was about to say it looks more like a 110 than a Dornier, even with my limited Luftwaffe knowledge
Nige
Now it makes sense!
I was about to say it looks more like a 110 than a Dornier, even with my limited Luftwaffe knowledge
Nige
betheyn
Senior Editor#019
Joined: October 14, 2004
KitMaker: 4,560 posts
AeroScale: 2,225 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 11:34 AM UTC
Quoted Text
this pic is not very good but it shows the difference a bit (the resin oil cooler is still missing. But as you said you wanted your model as a painting testbase, you can probably live with it
cheers
Steffen
Ahhh its all making sense now
.Is that the Fujimi ? kit Steffen. I heard there was some issues with it?
Andy
_H_Dori
Joined: November 09, 2006
KitMaker: 295 posts
AeroScale: 276 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 12:19 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Howard, I have found that if you position the markings on the edge of the backing paper, half on half off, if you see what I mean, it makes it easier to position. In other words, the backing paper will enable you to keep the markings clear of the surface until you have got the positioning correct. I've not had the chance to add this to the instructions.
I think that I may have forgot to mention that the pair of larger codes are cut from a slightly higher tack material. This is for the benefit of the 2 colour "F", as it is not possibe to cut the thin edge in the normal masking material. I would suggest using the backing paper method for these
Howard you are brave to try the masks, don't worry if you balls any up I'll send you replacements, 'cos I can
Thanks Mal, I'm really enjoying them. I've been setting the codes on tonight actually but I better not start the compressor up now as the girlie is asleep next door and I think I may be killed
I noticed the two colour codes were on a different type of sheet and they seem to work equally as well. I've actually found the codes to be easier to place than the crosses but thats maybe as I'm gaining a bit of experience. I'll just see how the underwing ones go on as they are the scary ones for me now
Thank you so much for sorting them out for me.
Howard
Holdfast
President#056
Joined: September 30, 2002
KitMaker: 8,581 posts
AeroScale: 4,913 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 07:35 PM UTC
Howard,
Great, as I said in my note (I think ) I wasn't able to produce a graphic to be able to do instructions for the pylon mask and they will, at first (maybe) be a little confusing. So, if you like I can take a picture of how they fit and post it here? Basically the long edge is the base of the pylon, on the outside edge. It then just wraps around the pylon. It was quite a while ago that I designed those masks and, if memory serves me correctly I had the idea of painting the pylon white first, apply the mask (when the white is dry 
), weed out the black portion and paint black. Re-mask the black then paint the pylon (the parts that are not the cross) the underside colour. This way will save a lot of awkward masking.
Steffan, Thanks for the info on the books, I will look out for them
Yep I also thought that I had come to the wrong thread, as I could have sworn that I left it talking about a Dornier....................or was it a Junkers
Great, as I said in my note (I think
) I wasn't able to produce a graphic to be able to do instructions for the pylon mask and they will, at first (maybe) be a little confusing. So, if you like I can take a picture of how they fit and post it here? Basically the long edge is the base of the pylon, on the outside edge. It then just wraps around the pylon. It was quite a while ago that I designed those masks and, if memory serves me correctly I had the idea of painting the pylon white first, apply the mask (when the white is dry ), weed out the black portion and paint black. Re-mask the black then paint the pylon (the parts that are not the cross) the underside colour. This way will save a lot of awkward masking.Steffan, Thanks for the info on the books, I will look out for them
Yep I also thought that I had come to the wrong thread, as I could have sworn that I left it talking about a Dornier....................or was it a Junkers
alpha_tango
Joined: September 07, 2005
KitMaker: 5,609 posts
AeroScale: 5,231 posts
Posted: Monday, August 04, 2008 - 08:51 PM UTC
Hi All
I am sorry. Must have looked pretty insane
Howard and I were chatting (can I write PMing??) about things and I expressed my thought ´s about his next project Revell/Monograms Bf110 which is a nice kit but has this engine issue.
Honestly before I got the Cutting Edge set thought this would only be visible if you have the kits (with and without conversion) side by side ... but since I have the set I think it is pretty obvious. I did not know where to put the picture to show the difference. (BTW this is a private copy as CE is OOP)
Again my apologies for a so much OT post.
greets
Steffen
I am sorry. Must have looked pretty insane
Howard and I were chatting (can I write PMing??) about things and I expressed my thought ´s about his next project Revell/Monograms Bf110 which is a nice kit but has this engine issue.
Honestly before I got the Cutting Edge set thought this would only be visible if you have the kits (with and without conversion) side by side ... but since I have the set I think it is pretty obvious. I did not know where to put the picture to show the difference. (BTW this is a private copy as CE is OOP)
Again my apologies for a so much OT post.
greets
Steffen
_H_Dori
Joined: November 09, 2006
KitMaker: 295 posts
AeroScale: 276 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 - 01:07 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Howard,
Great, as I said in my note (I think
Thanks Mal
I'll give it a go, the pylons are already sprayed in the Hellblau so I might try to spray the crosses directly onto them......
We'll see how that works out ha ha.
Howard
_H_Dori
Joined: November 09, 2006
KitMaker: 295 posts
AeroScale: 276 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 - 12:09 AM UTC
Not a major update, but more masks applied now. I did all the black codes last night and prepared the "F" for the red by putting down a base coat of white:
She's coming on nicely!
Howard
She's coming on nicely!
Howard
whittman181
Joined: December 30, 2006
KitMaker: 646 posts
AeroScale: 67 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 - 04:13 AM UTC
Yes , she is coming along nicely The codes look nice and sharp. Bob
The codes look nice and sharp. Bob_H_Dori
Joined: November 09, 2006
KitMaker: 295 posts
AeroScale: 276 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 10:24 AM UTC
OK, I'm a little troubled
Basically these pylon's are causing me a bit of an issue. I'm going on my interpretation of a few pictures, none of which are giving me the true picture I feel. Basically some other models I've seen seem to show the cross on the pylon with a large extended white outline. Now I've expanded this pic:
Although not the greatest quality it seems to show a standard cross and I don't believe the white section to the rear most of the pylon was extended. To understand what I mean please look at this link: http://www.inpayne.com/models/do217e5.html
In the book, Kampfflieger Vol3 by Dr Alfred price page 278 there are some great pictures of the HS293 mounted to a Dornier 217. Possibly even the same aricraft as the b&w pic above. Anyway this seems to carry with my theory. Although I don't have a scanner I have taken a picture which I hope will show up:
I've started to place the ,mask (roughly) where I think it should be and have come up with this:
I'm kinda thinking I wish I hadn't assembled the pylon's yet
What do you guys think? Any help greatly appreciated.
Howard
Basically these pylon's are causing me a bit of an issue. I'm going on my interpretation of a few pictures, none of which are giving me the true picture I feel. Basically some other models I've seen seem to show the cross on the pylon with a large extended white outline. Now I've expanded this pic:
Although not the greatest quality it seems to show a standard cross and I don't believe the white section to the rear most of the pylon was extended. To understand what I mean please look at this link: http://www.inpayne.com/models/do217e5.html
In the book, Kampfflieger Vol3 by Dr Alfred price page 278 there are some great pictures of the HS293 mounted to a Dornier 217. Possibly even the same aricraft as the b&w pic above. Anyway this seems to carry with my theory. Although I don't have a scanner I have taken a picture which I hope will show up:
I've started to place the ,mask (roughly) where I think it should be and have come up with this:
I'm kinda thinking I wish I hadn't assembled the pylon's yet
What do you guys think? Any help greatly appreciated.
Howard
alpha_tango
Joined: September 07, 2005
KitMaker: 5,609 posts
AeroScale: 5,231 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 10:50 AM UTC
Hello Howard
Two different planes, so it can well be one has the pylon white with black bar and the other has white and black chevrons (note that the forward chevron also seems to have the black edge ... IMHO that is)
Edit: I had a look at the pix in Kampfflieger vol.3 and I think only the aft had the black outline on the pylon
Personally I like the "54" style better. this also means the the other side of the pylon has just a white bar with black edge.
What was your question again ....
cheers
Steffen
P.S. the Hs 293 in Revells kit is a training or prototype device. Just came across my resin replacement when I looked for the decals the other day.
Two different planes, so it can well be one has the pylon white with black bar and the other has white and black chevrons (note that the forward chevron also seems to have the black edge ... IMHO that is)
Edit: I had a look at the pix in Kampfflieger vol.3 and I think only the aft had the black outline on the pylon
Personally I like the "54" style better. this also means the the other side of the pylon has just a white bar with black edge.
What was your question again ....
cheers
Steffen
P.S. the Hs 293 in Revells kit is a training or prototype device. Just came across my resin replacement when I looked for the decals the other day.
lampie
#029
Joined: December 23, 2005
KitMaker: 6,249 posts
AeroScale: 3,270 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 10:56 AM UTC
Hi Howard.
I cant help you with the historical accuracy of the markings but I can help you to mask round those pylons
Use the mask on the wing as normal, painting where the pylon will cover when fixed on, but not inboard of it.
Now, what seems to be the really tricky bit but is infact quite easy.
To mask around the curves of the pylon you need to cut very thin strips of Tamiya tape. An easy way of doing this is to tape two new #11 blades together. Run these down a straight edge, ( steel rule or similar) and you'll get a very thin but perfectly straight edged piece of tape.
Watch those fingers! Use a responsible adult, can cause birth defects in California etc etc.
The thin piece of tape will conform to the curves of the pylon and then use more tape to fill in the gaps for spraying.
You'll find that with the pylon held in place or perhaps even tacked on with a very small amount of glue. ( you'll need to get it off again to paint it remember) you'll be able to use your already painted markings to line up the markings on the pylon.
Hope this makes sense.
Nige
I cant help you with the historical accuracy of the markings but I can help you to mask round those pylons
Use the mask on the wing as normal, painting where the pylon will cover when fixed on, but not inboard of it.
Now, what seems to be the really tricky bit but is infact quite easy.
To mask around the curves of the pylon you need to cut very thin strips of Tamiya tape. An easy way of doing this is to tape two new #11 blades together. Run these down a straight edge, ( steel rule or similar) and you'll get a very thin but perfectly straight edged piece of tape.
Watch those fingers! Use a responsible adult, can cause birth defects in California etc etc.
The thin piece of tape will conform to the curves of the pylon and then use more tape to fill in the gaps for spraying.
You'll find that with the pylon held in place or perhaps even tacked on with a very small amount of glue. ( you'll need to get it off again to paint it remember) you'll be able to use your already painted markings to line up the markings on the pylon.
Hope this makes sense.
Nige
_H_Dori
Joined: November 09, 2006
KitMaker: 295 posts
AeroScale: 276 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 11:12 AM UTC
Thank you both for the quick replies.
Lampie, I know exactly what your saying mate and I reckon thats the way forward in life. Cheers for that, I shall do it that way for sure
Steffen, it was more to do with the amount of area covered by the white sections. I do agree though the black outline at the back of the cross looks good doesn't it......maybe I'm starting to run before I can walk although I would like to add that section
I'm looking at the pics of the HS293 and the kits version and the only difference I can really see is the nose seems somewhat more extended. Is that what denotes the training version or is it just slightly inaccurate?
I think I will get going on this another night. I feel tired and confused ha ha.
I shall pluck up the courage tomorrow night and take the plunge I think.
Thanks again guys. Leg-ends
Howard
Lampie, I know exactly what your saying mate and I reckon thats the way forward in life. Cheers for that, I shall do it that way for sure
Steffen, it was more to do with the amount of area covered by the white sections. I do agree though the black outline at the back of the cross looks good doesn't it......maybe I'm starting to run before I can walk although I would like to add that section
I'm looking at the pics of the HS293 and the kits version and the only difference I can really see is the nose seems somewhat more extended. Is that what denotes the training version or is it just slightly inaccurate?
I think I will get going on this another night. I feel tired and confused ha ha.
I shall pluck up the courage tomorrow night and take the plunge I think.
Thanks again guys. Leg-ends
Howard
alpha_tango
Joined: September 07, 2005
KitMaker: 5,609 posts
AeroScale: 5,231 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 07, 2008 - 11:35 AM UTC
Hi again Howard
I have edited my post above. You are right only aft edge has the black outline.
There is a nice book about "Deutsche Abwurfmunition bis 1945" by Wolfgang Fleischer .. I feel a bit stupid posting this over and over but it is hom in my Library. I'll dig out my kit again and post pictures of the parts tomorrow.
I just found out that there is an Englisch edition too. very interesting esp. colours of bombs!
greets
Steffen
I have edited my post above. You are right only aft edge has the black outline.
There is a nice book about "Deutsche Abwurfmunition bis 1945" by Wolfgang Fleischer .. I feel a bit stupid posting this over and over but it is hom in my Library. I'll dig out my kit again and post pictures of the parts tomorrow.
I just found out that there is an Englisch edition too. very interesting esp. colours of bombs!
greets
Steffen
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