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Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Roden 1/32 Fok. Dr.I
Rogga
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Östergötland, Sweden
Joined: November 21, 2005
KitMaker: 80 posts
AeroScale: 80 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 07:57 PM UTC
Thank you Zoran

I know what you meen with the decals , they do look like decals and not a part of the "living"surface of the plane and i agree with you , it doesn´t look that good.
To be hounest i have never tried that kind of postshading before and i´m a bit scared to mess things up with this one , i guess that i might do something about it later after some practise of that tecnice on some old models

Or maybe i leave this one as it is and take this good critic with me in to my folowin projects and do better there. It´s always good to learn new things and grow as a modeller :-)

Cheers
Rogga
Rogga
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Östergötland, Sweden
Joined: November 21, 2005
KitMaker: 80 posts
AeroScale: 80 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 08:09 PM UTC
Thank´s Stephen

I have to say that it is sites like this one with cheerfull and helpfull fellow modellers that make builds like this posible to finish.

-Ocsi-
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 11, 2008
KitMaker: 25 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 09:27 PM UTC
Hmmm, leftturn



Maybe I'm wrong! Or not? Lost my brain last monday.

Regards
Öcsi
thegirl
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Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 03:00 AM UTC
Beautiful build Roger !
Repainted
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Östergötland, Sweden
Joined: April 04, 2006
KitMaker: 1,058 posts
AeroScale: 1,004 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 05:17 AM UTC
Congrats my friend to a very nice Fokker, I just hope you will sending pics off the pfalz build to.

You´r Butcherfriend
Rogga
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Östergötland, Sweden
Joined: November 21, 2005
KitMaker: 80 posts
AeroScale: 80 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 06:32 AM UTC


Ok Öcsi , this might turn out to be a interesting discusion , your drawing is absolutly correct , but there is two controllines going to each controllsurface and what hapends to them insid the wing
I´m not so very well educated in this but every logic tells me that when you move a controlstick or a stearingweal to one side the reaction would be that the veacle turns in that direction , at least i know it is so in modern aircrafts .

I´ll try to se if i can find this out

Rogga
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Östergötland, Sweden
Joined: November 21, 2005
KitMaker: 80 posts
AeroScale: 80 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 06:38 AM UTC
Thank´s Terri

I also have a Dual combo-box from Eduard with the Dr.I in the 48-scale but that one i think i will save for the campaign Fokker vs Camel
Rogga
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Östergötland, Sweden
Joined: November 21, 2005
KitMaker: 80 posts
AeroScale: 80 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 06:48 AM UTC
Thank you Lasse

It feels good to put this into the shelf and start up the Pfalz and ofcourse there will be pictures from that build also , probably not in this speed , the spring and summer is not so far away now as you know and then this is not the first priorety , but something will be done before the sun arrive and the snow dissapear .
Hopefully we will se some interesting pictures from you to from a new great build

-Ocsi-
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 11, 2008
KitMaker: 25 posts
AeroScale: 24 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 07:24 AM UTC
You are right, Rogga!

Me stupid!



/Öcsi
TheZOX
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Slovenia
Joined: August 23, 2007
KitMaker: 86 posts
AeroScale: 75 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 10:34 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thank you Zoran

I know what you meen with the decals , they do look like decals and not a part of the "living"surface of the plane and i agree with you , it doesn´t look that good.
To be hounest i have never tried that kind of postshading before and i´m a bit scared to mess things up with this one , i guess that i might do something about it later after some practise of that tecnice on some old models

Or maybe i leave this one as it is and take this good critic with me in to my folowin projects and do better there. It´s always good to learn new things and grow as a modeller :-)

Cheers
Rogga


You know there are some tricks how to do post shading without risking to mess up the model.

Thats how I do it:
First I paint the model using gunze acrylics. After that I apply the decals and lightly weather the model with an oil wash. The main thing now is to clear coat it twice (again gunze very important) to protect my hard work. Next the drying process takes two days just to make sure its really dry. Now I use revell enamels to start post shading and if I mess someting up I just wipe it of with turpentine without worries and start again. And if I am happy with my post shading I apply the final clear...

Hope this helps you with your new project.
Rogga
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Östergötland, Sweden
Joined: November 21, 2005
KitMaker: 80 posts
AeroScale: 80 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 26, 2009 - 07:25 PM UTC
Thank´s Zoran

I´ll practise on that tecnic, seems to be a good one.

JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Friday, February 27, 2009 - 07:18 AM UTC

Quoted Text

You know there are some tricks how to do post shading without risking to mess up the model.

Thats how I do it:
First I paint the model using gunze acrylics. After that I apply the decals and lightly weather the model with an oil wash. The main thing now is to clear coat it twice (again gunze very important) to protect my hard work. Next the drying process takes two days just to make sure its really dry. Now I use revell emails to start post shading and if I mess someting up I just wipe it of with turpentine without worries and start again. And if I am happy with my post shading I apply the final clear...

Hope this helps you with your new project.


Revell emails? Ok now I am confused?
TheZOX
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Slovenia
Joined: August 23, 2007
KitMaker: 86 posts
AeroScale: 75 posts
Posted: Friday, February 27, 2009 - 09:47 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text


....b]revell emails[/b] to start post shading and if I mess someting up I just wipe it of with turpentine without worries and start again. And if I am happy with my post shading I apply the final clear...

Hope this helps you with your new project.


Revell emails? Ok now I am confused?


Thats because acrylics can longer resist to turpentine that enamels before they begin to soften. And if the clear coat is really dry you can repeat your post shading proces many times with no problem.

And this is the turpentine that I use:
Kornbeef
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England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,667 posts
AeroScale: 1,551 posts
Posted: Friday, February 27, 2009 - 11:43 PM UTC
thinks Zoran has lost the meaning in translation...meaning enamels......

I'm not going to comment, I ony speak English and I'm not to good at that, so commends any one that is multilingual.

Keith
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 06:49 AM UTC
No worries about a language barrier. We all speak styrene here. The rest we will work through.
TheZOX
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Slovenia
Joined: August 23, 2007
KitMaker: 86 posts
AeroScale: 75 posts
Posted: Saturday, February 28, 2009 - 08:57 AM UTC
ooooohhh... now I see it . Sorry for the misspelling guys. I ment revell enamel paints not email .
This technique works for me. I dont know much about chemistry but I found this out on accident when turpentine splattered over the wing of my freshly painted FW190 that was in two different colours (half of the wing was painted with revell and the other half with gunze) . When I wiped off the turpentine only the gunze remained.

Wow I really feel stupid at the moment
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