Regarding the pics on this thread----in the words of the late great Harry Carey---HOLY COW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Steve
Pre-Flight Check
Constructive critique of your finished or in-progress photos.
Constructive critique of your finished or in-progress photos.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Tamiya 1/32nd Zero in Progress.
WeWillHold
Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 17, 2002
KitMaker: 2,314 posts
AeroScale: 82 posts
Joined: April 17, 2002
KitMaker: 2,314 posts
AeroScale: 82 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 21, 2003 - 07:09 AM UTC
SS-74
Vatican City
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: May 13, 2002
KitMaker: 3,271 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 21, 2003 - 07:15 AM UTC
Wow! One word excellent!!!. This ought to be one of the finest plane model here in this site. Can't wait to see more of your pics.
This is amazing. Congratulations on a superb job!
This is amazing. Congratulations on a superb job!
Posted: Saturday, June 21, 2003 - 08:01 AM UTC
Hi Siggi
Everyone's said it before me.. that looks absolutely stunning! When the kit came out, I dreamed of building it - but was frightened by the price. But seeing work like yours is enough to make me start dreaming again...
Fantastic!
Rowan
Everyone's said it before me.. that looks absolutely stunning! When the kit came out, I dreamed of building it - but was frightened by the price. But seeing work like yours is enough to make me start dreaming again...
Fantastic!
Rowan
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, June 23, 2003 - 03:32 AM UTC
Here's an excellent painting technique...a coat of matt-black for a primer, followed by a coat of aluminium buffed with a metal spoon to try and get it looking like real metal, finished with a top coat of IJN dark green. Then soak it in alcohol and rub it all off. Technically known as a disaster, colloquially as a f**k-up. I've ordered some proper metalizer paint from Hannants and shall try again.
cfbush2000
North Dakota, United States
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 1,796 posts
AeroScale: 69 posts
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 1,796 posts
AeroScale: 69 posts
Posted: Monday, June 23, 2003 - 04:11 AM UTC
Just Outstanding! It is almost a shame to close up the cockpit and engine in the fusalage.
Keep the pictures comming.
Keep the pictures comming.
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, June 23, 2003 - 10:45 AM UTC
Well, the engine cowling can be taken off to expose the engine but it makes the plane look odd. And the canopy slides back. I'm kind of tempted to chop the wings and leave the tail surfaces off, but I guess that's being lazy. I'll see how the metalizer paint goes. I've managed to half rescue the canopy after splashing it whilst getting the paint off the fuselage; it's no longer as pristine as it once was, but then I suppose it shouldn't be.
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 - 08:20 AM UTC
A couple of pics with the motor in place (not glued yet). Mounting the motor has been a royal pain. There is a mounting ring on the front of the fuselage with four holes in it. The rear of the motor has four pins. Off the airframe these pins and holes matched up perfectly, but with the ring attatched to the airframe one of the pins is now slightly out of line with it's hole. It took me about an hour to discover the problem as it's almost totally impossible to eyeball the pin-hole connection. The solution has been to remove the two upper pins and use only the two lower ones to ensure accurate alignment. Future Zero builders beware. If I ever do this kit again I'll mount the motor on it's bearer before attatching the bearer to the firewall.
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 - 04:44 AM UTC
Main wings assembled, with mucho fiddly undercarriage doors that actually work when the wheels are lowered/raised. Wheels next then.
Bender
Wyoming, United States
Joined: October 20, 2002
KitMaker: 323 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: October 20, 2002
KitMaker: 323 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, June 25, 2003 - 05:03 AM UTC
wow, that looks great, very nice work
Bender
Bender
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, June 30, 2003 - 08:48 AM UTC
Things have slowed down a bit while I wait for the metalizer paint to arrive from Hannants. Small bits have been put together and airbrushed (including control-surfaces that consist of plastic and PE parts, a pain in the arsch #:-) ).
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 01, 2003 - 07:01 AM UTC
The metalizer arrived today from Hannants, so on with the primer.
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 - 02:18 AM UTC
I should have worn a gasmask, the fumes are mental. I thought I'd been sent a duff bottle coz the amount of actual pigment is minimal. But it worked fine.
Torque
Georgia, United States
Joined: July 03, 2003
KitMaker: 83 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: July 03, 2003
KitMaker: 83 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 - 01:59 PM UTC
Siggi,
The project is coming along nicely .
The project is coming along nicely .
airwarrior
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 21, 2002
KitMaker: 2,085 posts
AeroScale: 217 posts
Joined: November 21, 2002
KitMaker: 2,085 posts
AeroScale: 217 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 - 02:05 PM UTC
ubba ubba..ubba........
*cries in corner* #:-)
*cries in corner* #:-)
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 - 11:32 PM UTC
Cheers guys.
I've just got through a couple of hours struggling with the upper-wing Hinomaru decals and I've scrubbed them off coz they're crap. The bloody things might as well be made from vinyl for all the good the Microsol does. They are actually rather thick. Repeated applications and they still refused to be drawn into the engraved detail (panel-lines & rivets). I'll have to do them by hand with paint. Should be fun.
I've just got through a couple of hours struggling with the upper-wing Hinomaru decals and I've scrubbed them off coz they're crap. The bloody things might as well be made from vinyl for all the good the Microsol does. They are actually rather thick. Repeated applications and they still refused to be drawn into the engraved detail (panel-lines & rivets). I'll have to do them by hand with paint. Should be fun.
slodder
North Carolina, United States
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
AeroScale: 305 posts
Joined: February 22, 2002
KitMaker: 11,718 posts
AeroScale: 305 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 12:04 AM UTC
Good Goooo
That's wonderful stuff. Holy Cow. Wow.
Tin_Can get ready for an On Display or an article or Both - Siggi - please put togethe an article.
So - how delicate is the wiring. I'm envisioning that the wiring is just glued in with CA. At those connection points I'm also seeing a lot of potential for breaking. Can you fill us in on what glue you use or technique (drill pilot holes or not) you use to get that scratch stuff in.
Wonderful.
That's wonderful stuff. Holy Cow. Wow.
Tin_Can get ready for an On Display or an article or Both - Siggi - please put togethe an article.
So - how delicate is the wiring. I'm envisioning that the wiring is just glued in with CA. At those connection points I'm also seeing a lot of potential for breaking. Can you fill us in on what glue you use or technique (drill pilot holes or not) you use to get that scratch stuff in.
Wonderful.
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 02:20 AM UTC
This is what I mean about 'organic modelling'. Talk about serendipity riding on the back of a carve-up. First the decals had to be hacked off coz they sucked. I managed to airbrush some on using a water-soaked mask. So I start chipping away at the red, to simulate wear. No probs, except it looked a bit 'raw'. So I take a Q-Tip and dampen it with surgical alcohol and rub at the worn areas, which works a treat until I realise I've gone through the Future, the metalizer and into the primer. Which actually looks ok coz it gradiates the exposed metal areas and appears quite authentic. Conclusion, as always...my technique is 70% luck and 30% inspiration. #:-)
Slodder, thanks for the kind words. The wiring...I drill holes unless impossible and CA the wires in place. The only time I don't drill is when the wire has to go into something so tiny that a drill-bit would obliterate it. Then it's a case of CA'ing and trying to avoid knocking the wire. It usually goes ok.
Next disaster...I'm going to try the salt trick. Oh...my...gawd. I have a vision...a Mitsubishi Zero...flying into a wall at approx 70mph. Which would be the speed I can throw one.
Slodder, thanks for the kind words. The wiring...I drill holes unless impossible and CA the wires in place. The only time I don't drill is when the wire has to go into something so tiny that a drill-bit would obliterate it. Then it's a case of CA'ing and trying to avoid knocking the wire. It usually goes ok.
Next disaster...I'm going to try the salt trick. Oh...my...gawd. I have a vision...a Mitsubishi Zero...flying into a wall at approx 70mph. Which would be the speed I can throw one.
airwarrior
New Jersey, United States
Joined: November 21, 2002
KitMaker: 2,085 posts
AeroScale: 217 posts
Joined: November 21, 2002
KitMaker: 2,085 posts
AeroScale: 217 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 03, 2003 - 03:56 AM UTC
woah.........now that is a beautiful meatball!
BRAVO!!
BRAVO!!
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, July 04, 2003 - 02:48 AM UTC
Jeez, I was that close to giving up on this one. Then I got lucky (AGAIN!) and pulled it back. Half the airframe worn, other half to go. Then the washes, followed by pastels. Eee, it's 'ard work is this.
Tin_Can
Florida, United States
Joined: January 26, 2002
KitMaker: 1,560 posts
AeroScale: 750 posts
Joined: January 26, 2002
KitMaker: 1,560 posts
AeroScale: 750 posts
Posted: Friday, July 04, 2003 - 04:59 AM UTC
Siggi, everytime I see this thing I get more impressed. Great work!
This would make a great aircraft feature, especially with all the in-progress photos you've taken....hint, hint....
This would make a great aircraft feature, especially with all the in-progress photos you've taken....hint, hint....
Machu
Virginia, United States
Joined: June 18, 2003
KitMaker: 208 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 18, 2003
KitMaker: 208 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, July 04, 2003 - 10:03 AM UTC
pretty... :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Friday, July 04, 2003 - 11:10 PM UTC
If I do a feature do I get a medal? "Gimme gimme gimme!...hehehe!" (Muttley).
Here's a new (?) technique for wearing airframes. I say "new" coz I've certainly never seen it anywhere else, and this is the first time I've used this particular variation of it. The old variation was alcohol rub on enamel. This one is spirit rub on acrylic, which is far superior as it is less sticky and dries faster.
I've shown a couple of engine and wing covers for clarity of example.
a) Acrylic Primer.
b) Laquer Metalizer.
c) Future.
d) Hand-painted acrylic 'decals'.
e) Acrylic top-coat.
f) Allow the top-coat to dry for a couple of hours at least. Then take a smooth cloth (a fine-weave hanky as opposed to a kitchen towel) and wet it with white-spirit (or turps). Squeeze out excess fluid and pad it up. Then go at the top-coat. Rub firmly, it'll get quite wet. Move to a slightly drier area of your cloth and rub again, the top-coat will start to wear away very gradually. The Future and metalizer are quite resistant and can take a fair bit of abuse before you'll go through to the primer, but keep an eye on it anyway. Thing is, small areas of grey primer don't look out of place...more like small areas of more heavily oxidised aluminium.
Once finished you'll have a very sticky surface. I handled the airframe with a plastic bag over my hand. No probs were encountered. Allow to dry overnight in a warm room, it'll dry to finger-touch but don't be gripping it firmly because you'll leave fingerprints. Use your own judgement on how long to allow for complete curing before proceeding with more work (more Future, washes etc).
The example here has been taken only to step-f. I intend to apply a wash (probably raw-umber oil) and possibly some pastel powder.
For Japanese a/c a lot of wear is authentic. For ETO a/c some restraint is required.
Here's a new (?) technique for wearing airframes. I say "new" coz I've certainly never seen it anywhere else, and this is the first time I've used this particular variation of it. The old variation was alcohol rub on enamel. This one is spirit rub on acrylic, which is far superior as it is less sticky and dries faster.
I've shown a couple of engine and wing covers for clarity of example.
a) Acrylic Primer.
b) Laquer Metalizer.
c) Future.
d) Hand-painted acrylic 'decals'.
e) Acrylic top-coat.
f) Allow the top-coat to dry for a couple of hours at least. Then take a smooth cloth (a fine-weave hanky as opposed to a kitchen towel) and wet it with white-spirit (or turps). Squeeze out excess fluid and pad it up. Then go at the top-coat. Rub firmly, it'll get quite wet. Move to a slightly drier area of your cloth and rub again, the top-coat will start to wear away very gradually. The Future and metalizer are quite resistant and can take a fair bit of abuse before you'll go through to the primer, but keep an eye on it anyway. Thing is, small areas of grey primer don't look out of place...more like small areas of more heavily oxidised aluminium.
Once finished you'll have a very sticky surface. I handled the airframe with a plastic bag over my hand. No probs were encountered. Allow to dry overnight in a warm room, it'll dry to finger-touch but don't be gripping it firmly because you'll leave fingerprints. Use your own judgement on how long to allow for complete curing before proceeding with more work (more Future, washes etc).
The example here has been taken only to step-f. I intend to apply a wash (probably raw-umber oil) and possibly some pastel powder.
For Japanese a/c a lot of wear is authentic. For ETO a/c some restraint is required.
Tin_Can
Florida, United States
Joined: January 26, 2002
KitMaker: 1,560 posts
AeroScale: 750 posts
Joined: January 26, 2002
KitMaker: 1,560 posts
AeroScale: 750 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 03:28 AM UTC
Great tip.
This method would create a great effect for planes that have multiple basecoats painted on but with varying shades of color because of 'in-the-field' applications.
This method would create a great effect for planes that have multiple basecoats painted on but with varying shades of color because of 'in-the-field' applications.
Siggi
United Kingdom
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: June 17, 2003
KitMaker: 90 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 07:03 AM UTC
The cowling has been worn. It's not the best it could have been; I think I airbrushed the black on too thick and left it to dry for too long, hence large stark areas of silver rather than a more subtle gradiation. Never mind, I'll know for the next one. If I can be arsed. #:-)
Things should improve somewhat with a wash and some powder.
Couple of cockpit shots too, for interest.
Things should improve somewhat with a wash and some powder.
Couple of cockpit shots too, for interest.
Part-timer
Georgia, United States
Joined: April 11, 2003
KitMaker: 361 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Joined: April 11, 2003
KitMaker: 361 posts
AeroScale: 0 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 05, 2003 - 07:20 AM UTC
Awesome. Fun-KEY. That thing must be from the very end of the war, just barely being held together with the proverbial pocket lint and bailing twine. I don't think I'd get in that thing and go flying, but then, I'm not looking to kamikaze anyone.
Keep posting the pics as you come down the home stretch!
Keep posting the pics as you come down the home stretch!