sorry Terri, I was typing my reply when you added yours, I would never refer to you as a "guy".
Thank you for your kind words, it is always nice to get your comments.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
WNW GB 2009- 10 SE.5a - Des
wombat58
New South Wales, Australia
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 01:05 AM UTC
gajouette
Texas, United States
Joined: February 01, 2007
KitMaker: 365 posts
AeroScale: 356 posts
Joined: February 01, 2007
KitMaker: 365 posts
AeroScale: 356 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 02:43 AM UTC
Des,
Outstanding SE-5a project my friend.Love all the extra details you've added to the engine and the radiator.Excellent idea of using brass sheeting to finishing out the radiator.Have you considered converting the WNW SE-5a to a SE-5 ?
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
Outstanding SE-5a project my friend.Love all the extra details you've added to the engine and the radiator.Excellent idea of using brass sheeting to finishing out the radiator.Have you considered converting the WNW SE-5a to a SE-5 ?
Highest Regards,
Gregory Jouette
wombat58
New South Wales, Australia
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 09:49 AM UTC
Thanks Gregory for your nice comments. No, I have never considered converting an SE.5a, but now that you have mentioned it I will look into it and see what is involved.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 10:35 AM UTC
Des she is a fine build. Love the detailing you showed us. Another jew for your display case. Might I nominally suggest some exhaust staining on the pipes?
wombat58
New South Wales, Australia
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 11:41 AM UTC
Thanks Stephen for your valued comments.
I did add stain to the exhaust by using graphite powder, but when I sprayed it with matt clear it all but disappeared, guess I was a little too light with my application of the graphite. I will attempt to dirty it up but it will be a little difficult now that the model is completed.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
I did add stain to the exhaust by using graphite powder, but when I sprayed it with matt clear it all but disappeared, guess I was a little too light with my application of the graphite. I will attempt to dirty it up but it will be a little difficult now that the model is completed.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
edoardo
Milano, Italy
Joined: November 30, 2007
KitMaker: 642 posts
AeroScale: 382 posts
Joined: November 30, 2007
KitMaker: 642 posts
AeroScale: 382 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 09:11 PM UTC
Hi Des!
I too encountered a problem like yours... the powder is too delicate and it blows away sooner than the clear coat reaches it.
If I may, I'd like to add my little advice here, please forgive my imperinence.
Have you tryed to use pastels instead of graphite?
I use CRETE PASTELS (I don't know if the name is the same outside Italy) - see pic - they ground into a very fine powder that I apply with a stiff brush. The powder stiks very well and is of a beautiful matt finish (while the graphite is too shiny in my opinion) and you can find almost any colour you like (I use black for smoke, raw umber and orange for rust).
I enclose here a pic of a build I did last year, it of the exhaust of 38t German tank: in my opinion it tourned out quite well (to tell the truth I used 2 shades of real rust besides the pastell).
It seems to me that the exhaust have not an hollow end. Did you drill it a bit? I find that drilling the end of the exhaust improve the realism effect very much.
One last thing, my friend: your work is really super, any time I look at your blogs I feel compelled to improve my skills to reach your heights.
Your work is a real inspiration for me and I just wanted to thank you for shareing it with us!
Ciao
Edo
I too encountered a problem like yours... the powder is too delicate and it blows away sooner than the clear coat reaches it.
If I may, I'd like to add my little advice here, please forgive my imperinence.
Have you tryed to use pastels instead of graphite?
I use CRETE PASTELS (I don't know if the name is the same outside Italy) - see pic - they ground into a very fine powder that I apply with a stiff brush. The powder stiks very well and is of a beautiful matt finish (while the graphite is too shiny in my opinion) and you can find almost any colour you like (I use black for smoke, raw umber and orange for rust).
I enclose here a pic of a build I did last year, it of the exhaust of 38t German tank: in my opinion it tourned out quite well (to tell the truth I used 2 shades of real rust besides the pastell).
It seems to me that the exhaust have not an hollow end. Did you drill it a bit? I find that drilling the end of the exhaust improve the realism effect very much.
One last thing, my friend: your work is really super, any time I look at your blogs I feel compelled to improve my skills to reach your heights.
Your work is a real inspiration for me and I just wanted to thank you for shareing it with us!
Ciao
Edo
wombat58
New South Wales, Australia
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 - 09:37 PM UTC
Thanks very much Edo, I'm always looking for new techniques that will improve my skills and your suggestion is very good. I have heard of modellers using pastels but have never tried them myself. The brand you showed is available in Australia so I will buy those and try them out. The graphite worked very well on my Bristol and Junkers exhausts, I think I was just a little mean with the amount I used this time.
I always drill out the exhaust as well as the gun barrels but
the exhaust on the SE.5a is not open at the ends,the exhaust exits through the side of the pipes.
Thanks again for your kind words, you are very flattering.
Des.
by the way, very nice work on your AFV.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
I always drill out the exhaust as well as the gun barrels but
the exhaust on the SE.5a is not open at the ends,the exhaust exits through the side of the pipes.
Thanks again for your kind words, you are very flattering.
Des.
by the way, very nice work on your AFV.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
Mgunns
Arizona, United States
Joined: December 12, 2008
KitMaker: 1,423 posts
AeroScale: 1,319 posts
Joined: December 12, 2008
KitMaker: 1,423 posts
AeroScale: 1,319 posts
Posted: Friday, June 11, 2010 - 07:39 AM UTC
Nice work on the SE5 Des. Really a looker, especially with the engine compartment opened like that, and your brass work. Top notch work. I noticed your comment on my 'candy stripe' on the 'drome', thank you very much, much appreciated.
I like Edo's technique for weathering with pastels. My son was good with that. Too bad he is not into modeling any more.
Take care
Mark
I like Edo's technique for weathering with pastels. My son was good with that. Too bad he is not into modeling any more.
Take care
Mark