Hello Ladies and Gents,
I have had my eye on early aviation for a while now, mostly WWI fighters, and have started collecting a few kits to build. I'm going to start off with a 1/48 Fokker Eindecker weekend kit from Eduard.
I have never rigged a model kit before and am not really sure what to do which is why I am here asking for your guidance on this matter. Any advice or links to tutorials will be welcome.
Thank you kindly
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
In need of help with rigging.
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
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Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
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Posted: Saturday, June 25, 2011 - 11:35 AM UTC
Removed by original poster on 06/26/11 - 13:46:27 (GMT).
thegirl
Alberta, Canada
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 02:51 AM UTC
Try here ......this might help .....
http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net//features/2739
http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net//features/2740
http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net//features/2739
http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net//features/2740
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
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Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
AeroScale: 372 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 04:27 AM UTC
Thanks Terri! Those both had a key piece of information for me, the first one about predrilling the holes before painting (and I'll be building the Pfalz D.IIIa as well ), and the second one about making the metal loops. Excellent stuff!
ivanhoe6
Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 05, 2007
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Joined: April 05, 2007
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 06:18 AM UTC
Hi Jeremy, I too am about to undertake my first Biplanes. A Roland C.II & a Fokker EV by Eduard. The GreatWeb Store was having a big sale. Now I just have to wait for the mailman. Rigging seems to be very minimal with these kits, great for a beginner. Good Luck on your builds !
Terri, Thank you for the 2 links ! They both answered a lot of questions for me. I was curious about how the rigging cables mounted to the wing. BTW, "Nice Build ! " Happy modeling all !
Terri, Thank you for the 2 links ! They both answered a lot of questions for me. I was curious about how the rigging cables mounted to the wing. BTW, "Nice Build ! " Happy modeling all !
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
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Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
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Posted: Sunday, June 26, 2011 - 08:18 AM UTC
Awesome Ivanhoe6! The Roland C.II is one of the biplanes that I picked out, it's a sleek looking aircraft and that "whale" color scheme is too cool! I hope that you'll be posting build logs for both your builds, and good luck!
wombat58
New South Wales, Australia
Joined: March 26, 2009
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Joined: March 26, 2009
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Posted: Monday, June 27, 2011 - 07:49 PM UTC
Hi Jeremy,
My site is dedicated to 1:32 scale but the rigging tutorial would suit 1:48, you may pick up a few tips.
Des.
My site is dedicated to 1:32 scale but the rigging tutorial would suit 1:48, you may pick up a few tips.
Des.
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
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Joined: June 29, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 05:30 AM UTC
Great, thanks Des!
armouredcharmer
England - East Anglia, United Kingdom
Joined: June 09, 2009
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Joined: June 09, 2009
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 07:04 AM UTC
I do`nt know if this might help,but a friend of mine taught me to use Knitting elastic for ariels and rigging,this has both the ease of use and can survive life`s little knocks.It does take a liitle practice to get right but when mastered looks just as good and can also be painted.
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
KitMaker: 5,854 posts
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Joined: June 29, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 07:18 AM UTC
Everything helps Danny, thanks for the tip! I will be slowly building a few different biplanes so I will definitely make sure to use knitting elastic on at least one build
billbill
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 18, 2011
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Joined: April 18, 2011
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 04:14 PM UTC
Ill probably be criticized for saying this , but here goes. When I was building bi-planes and older military ships, I would use different thicknesses of floral wire cut to size. They tended to be easier to work with than the rigging sometimes supplied by the kit maker
vonHengest
Texas, United States
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Joined: June 29, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 - 06:45 PM UTC
None of the kits that I have include rigging material of any kind. What exactly do you mean by floral wire? Are you talking about the stuff that's coated with green vinyl?
billbill
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 18, 2011
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Posted: Thursday, June 30, 2011 - 09:36 AM UTC
Yes. The
kits I have purchased have come with very thin strips of wire which i found very awkward to handle and install. The green floral wire worked great. I just painted it the right color, and used a pin vise to make the right sized holes.
kits I have purchased have come with very thin strips of wire which i found very awkward to handle and install. The green floral wire worked great. I just painted it the right color, and used a pin vise to make the right sized holes.
JackFlash
Colorado, United States
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Posted: Thursday, June 30, 2011 - 09:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Ill probably be criticized for saying this , but here goes. When I was building bi-planes and older military ships, I would use different thicknesses of floral wire cut to size. They tended to be easier to work with than the rigging sometimes supplied by the kit maker
In this case one must becareful and not use white wire in any resin components. Plastic is fine but white metal in resin often corrodes. Always use brass rod or wire and you never have that problem.
From the Aeroscale thread - Modeling Spruce & Linen.
". . .First of all leave the top wing upper surface and the lower wing under surface unfinished. Why you ask? These are the areas that you need to apply glue to. An open flat surface is easier to work with than the narrow area between the wings.
Drill straight through the wing next to the strut at the appropriate angle. There should be two holes for each strand. Note also that one hole can possibly hold upto 5 strands. The key to working with monofilament is start by the upper cabane strut locations and move out and down with your strands. Used spring action clothes pins to clip on the strands once their through the lower wing area. One clothes pin for one strand. This pulls the strand(s) tight and then you just put one drop of thin type super glue in the hole. Don’t use metal hemostats as they can over stress the small 5-8 mil strands and after your complete it will go slack and heat application won’t tighten it permanently.
When your finished rigging use a sharp #11 blade and clip all ends of the secured strands. Then scrap any glue spots off the plastic and finish to suite your chosen profile.
The other choice is ( I prefer blackened brass) fine wire. For 1/48 and smaller try .006-.008. For larger scales try .015-.020 and up. Brass is best choice for short runs of 1½ and smaller. Brass has weight and will tend to sag over a period of time if not thoroughly anchored. Turnbuckles can be manufactured in scale, it just take patience. In smaller scales you can simply replicate turnbuckles with an application of thicker gel super glue then paint when dry. . ."
See it here.
vonHengest
Texas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2010
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Joined: June 29, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, July 07, 2011 - 01:24 PM UTC
Great, thanks for the information fellas!
I'm not planning on using metal for the lines, but I'll make sure that I keep the kit materials in mind so that I don't corrode the lines on accident. I need to read through the tutorial a couple more times to soak it all in.
Really looking forward to this!
I'm not planning on using metal for the lines, but I'll make sure that I keep the kit materials in mind so that I don't corrode the lines on accident. I need to read through the tutorial a couple more times to soak it all in.
Really looking forward to this!