Having my first build, the Roden Alb. DIII within an hour or two of completion and the agonising and pondering stage being finally over I've chosen the Pup for my second submission to the KoTS Campaign.
References that will be used are the two excellent Windsock Data Files, the Osprey Pup Aces Book, the WNW Site archive photos and Kit Instructions Booklet, and a 1/32 Three View Profile from my "tickle trunk" of saved Magazines, the Fall 1978 Issue of Scale Aircraft Modeller.

After Market items added to the build will be the British Gauge, Nuts and Bolts, and Prop Bosses 1/32 Sets from Copper State Models and Vector Cut Nuts and Bolts (1 and 1.5 mm) as required.

I have chosen a 3 Naval Sqn. bird #6179 "Baby Mine" as flown by Canadian Ace A.W. "Nick" Carter in scoring 3 of his 5 kills while on Pups. The markings are one of the subjects on the excellent Pheon Sheet 32014 Sopwith Pups of the RNAS.


I am looking forward to this build immensely; it's my first experience with a Wingnut Wings kit and so far (fondling of the sprues, minor trimming, and dry fitting) only, it's a most impressive product.
I also have long wanted an aircraft of Carters in my collection; he was a great Canadian Hero and relatively unknown as is too often the case. He also was a man after my own heart; I saw an interview of him several years before he passed away at 92 where he credited his longevity to "good single malt scotch and better cigars". Hope my penchant for both of those products get me close to his years.....! For now I'm just going to enjoy the experience of building a first rate kit to the best of my abilities.
More to follow after a little more research and experimentation.
Cheers,
Lance

I've joined this forum just so I could subscribe to this thread. I've never built a plastic model (just building and flying scale RC so far) but I have a 1:72 Pup in plastic and have been considering picking up this Wingnutz kit as well. Looking forward to seeing how you turn her out. I plan to follow along with a glass of single malt in hand.

Matt,
If you are going to venture into plastic scale WWI I'm sure you've already picked up here that the Wingnut Wings Kits are probably the greatest choice, assuming 1/32 Scale works for you. Take a quick look at Warreni's (Warren Inman's) Pup build on the Forum; you'll immediately see what I mean.
I hope to get this build underway shortly, just putting the final touches on my Albatros and getting a book review together for the Forum. Should have a few updates by next week.
As for the single malt, a man after my own heart!

Cheers,
Lance

Looks like you got a lot of extra toys for this one...looking forward to the build!

I have been working on the cockpit and am amazed at how few extras are required to improve it if at all. The detail of this kit is most impressive and the mouldings are superb; Photo Etch additions are minimal if at all and everything falls into place so very well.
Rigging of the flight control cables is underway and, with the exception of a few lines, a throttle push rod from the quadrant forward to the engine location, and addition of stringers on the sides to replace the (too small in my view) moulded versions she'll be complete. The instrument panel is a veritable little jewel and with some careful painting and the supplied decals came out beautifully.
I hope to complete this section, get started on the engine, and post an update with some photos before the weekend. WNW definitely produce a top notch product.
More to follow.............

Cheers,
Lance

C'mon Lance! We need more photos!
I am lost in Roden land at the moment with the Phoenix-SPAD and Tripehound.
I see you have found that you don't need much to improve a WNW kit. I agree 100% there and am looking forward to following your Pup adventure. I only have 5 WNW kits left in the stash so I am hanging out for their new releases to be released. Failing that is will be Roden time again.
Enjoy!

Yeah , what Warren said ...we want pictures !

If you do not supply zee photografs... YOU VILL BE SHOT!

Warren, Terri, and Marc,
O.K. I was going to get the cockpit all sewn up before an update but since I'm watching some paint dry in about 320% relative humidity (it's been raining here for what seems a month!) I'll get some shots done and posted today. AMS has added a little time to my original estimate, did some add-ons that now require some ädjustments" to the fuselage/lower wing assembly fitting process and then decided I just can't not do some additions to the rear inside fuselage at the back where the great gapping opening on the underside kingpost area keeps drawing my eyes. As Kornbeef said in one of his posts, no one but me would probably notice but I know it's there!
Will get busy as the threat of being shot got my attention; I'm a wimp at heart.
Cheers,
Lance

Here we go with the first real posting and evidence of progress. In my typical fashion it's all about "one step forward, two steps backwards " but overall I'm really enjoying this kit, nice to work with real quality.
First, all the various components of Phase One. I added strip styrene stringers to the inside Fuselage walls and followed with the wire bracing complete of, course, with Mr. Bob's wonderful buckles. At this point I started the cockpit module and the rigging of the flight control cables using a combination of mono and guitar wire for the shorter runs.

The instrument panel proved a real little jewel; after gathering all the photo etch I had on hand to enhance the bezels etc. it proved to be just fine or better with some careful painting, a testament to the quality of the kit's moldings. All the after-market stuff was returned to the assesories bin. I must add that the instrument decals were top quality and with a drop of future for the glass the instruments look very real.

The left side fuselage frame in isolation and then posed on the fuselage. All I had to add was the throttle to engine linkage and a copper line to the instrument above the throttle. Anyone know what it is? In any photos I have it kind of looks like a fuel filter/sight bowl like on the farm tractor I drove as a kid??


The various control components were installed on the floorboard and cables installed. At this point I mounted the left side frame on the floorboard and then mounted them on the left fuselage side. Lots of fiddleing to get around the extra width caused by the bracing wires, note to self to mount them INSIDE the frame members on future builds!



At this point the rapid and smooth progress bubble burst; the test fitting of the right side frame and fuselage member to the lower wing attachment proved problematic due to the slight increase in the width of the module caused by the bracing wires. The problem got fixed with a long combination of careful filing of the wire attachment points on the outsides and a Dremel frenzy on the lower wing "pocket" to accomodate the slight protrusions still there. This allows the wing to fit properly and the fuselage halves to mate as well with only a bit of filling once I button her up.

The kit photo etch seatbelts are ready to add to the seat which can then be added to the cockpit.

At this point the rear fuselage reared it's ugly little head, AMS dictates that I won't be able to sleep should the open rear fus. section not be completed. Second coat of paint required (hopefully the weather will smarten up and the first coat dries before my 90th Birthday!) and then I'll be adding some stringers and bracing wires.


And that is where I'm at presently. I have a week before leaving on a 10 day vacation so should get a bit more progress done. Any and all feel free to offer suggestions, point out glaring errors, or even the occasional "told you so's" are more then welcome.Always lots to learn from you folks and I enjoy the feedback immensely.
My overall impression at this point of the build, marvellous kit and looking real good. No doubt in my mind these products are well worth their price, I'm already glancing at the stash pile and thinking about which is next on the production line.

Cheers,
Lance

P.S. Meant to include a "bit of fun" regarding the floor. Initially it was all painted CDL, then I noticed the black (carpet??) floor in the photos of the Hendon Reproduction so flat black it was, then found more photos that seemed more logical thus the final version CDL with a metal flooring at the front. Half a jug of Windex later it was done. Contrary to Terri's experience windex does work on enamels; you just have to scrub a lot harder!

That bubble thingy is part of the lubrication system for the engine. It was a kind of oil pressure regulator The air in the top of the glass acted as the regulator, or something like that. The is an explaination at www.vintageaviator.com under the Neiuport 11, and I quote, "There is a “pulsator”(a glass bulb filled part way with oil leaving a compressible air space that shrinks and swells at a rate dependent on the oil pump speed) in the cockpit that can be used to measure engine speed and oil pump operation."

Here is a bit of fun on the subject.

terminology

Oil Pulsator is an instrument that has a tubular glass at it apex and shows by its periodic pluse of oil that the pump is functioning. It is attached within the cockpit for the pilot's visual inspection. It has by its nature a receiving line from the oil pump and a sending line to the engine.

Warren/Stephen,
Thanks for clearing this one up for me. Enjoyed the Terminology Link; I knew it was a liquid indicator of some sort however this is new to me.......more learned and definitely more to come in the future.
BTW, in my usual inverted approach to doing things I remembered the Windsock Pup build article that I swore I would read before starting. Having gone through it this P.M. I now I get to add the cockpit floor cross bracing wires after seat and side frame installation. Brilliant, now how did I miss that in the first place?!

Cheers,
Lance

WOW, who knew that a simple threat of gunfire would produce such results.

Great progress all around.

Sure is quiet out there, must be the summer thing. I don't believe I've ever seen so little activity on the site over (as of tomorrow) my first year as a member. Given the crappy weather here I have some progress to report. Doesn't seem like much as it's the "fiddly bits" stage of the build.
The seat belt/harness got installed; very stiff even after annealing. I much prefer the soft brass PE to the silver thicker stuff. Note the floor cross bracing got installed as well, out of sequence, should have been done before assembly of the cockpit module. It was akin to building a ship in a bottle for real but came out OK.

Next the flight control cables were completed. They were attached to a false former with CA and once the fuselage is mated will appear to disappear aft down the fuselage. All are painted with Model Master Engine Grey enamal.

The tail skid was then completed and installed once the aft "kingpost" fuselage bay area had the framing and bracing completed. This area was improved only in the areas that will be visible once the fuselage is closed up. Binding on the tailskid is copper electrical cord wire.


The elevator control cable fairleads were then added to each fuselage half using Bob's Buckles 2.5mm brass tubes.

At this point all wood struts and the plywood portion of the fuselage deck around the cockpit were give a coat of Humbrol Oak followed by a 50/50 mix of Model Master Acrylic Raw and Burnt Siennas for woodgraining. Once that was dry it was given an overcoat of Tamiya Clear Orange. The top metal cowl, front cowling and side panels were all painted with a basecoat of Humbrol flat aluminum followed by a coat of hairspray in preparation for final coating and chipping/weathering.


I am now pre-drilling for rigging and getting ready to button up the fuselage, Once that is completed I can attach the lower wing and start on the pre-shading with separate builds of the engine and gun on the side.
I am still very pleased with this kit; excellent quality in everything I've completed so far and the fit is most impressive. To date the only adjustment I've done is minor filing of the cutouts on the front top cowling where the rear cabane struts attach to the fus. frame. The grinding of the bottom wing fitting to the fuselage was a self induced problem resulting from addition of the fuselage cross bracing wires to the outside of the frame.
I am awaiting a reply from Mike Westrop (author of History of No.10 Squadron RNAS) to clear up contradictory info concerning the nose color on this particular machine. B or C Flight of 3 Naval equals Red or Black and it appears that both are correct, however dates are the issue. If Mike can't clear up the issue I'm going with red as my amateur perspective is it's the most likely. Also I've gone over and "caressed" the replica Sopwith TriPlane in Carter's colors in the Calgary Aero Space Museum (10 Naval in red) and the red/PC10 contrast is really pretty to look at.
I have only a few days left before leaving on vacation, hopefully will get a little done and provide another brief update before leaving.
Thanks for dropping in!

Cheers,
Lance

PS
These little cameras are either a curse or, more properly I guess, godsend.
Noticed the right side floor board askew in the first photo and some touchups still required in the interior tail area. Better now then after the fuselage is closed for sure!

Hey Lance.
You need to heat the brass up more if it is still stiff. Don't be scared as an ordinary lighter or candle won't melt them. But remember, paint them AFTER annealing them..

Warren,
I have a minature torch system called a Iroda Microjet, it's basically just a small butane torch that uses a normal cigarette lighter as a fuel cell vs. a fuel cell/ bottle. Generates way more degrees then a lighter and I certainly gave the belts a pretty good roast. You are no doubt correct, I should apply even more heat until I get the maleability I want .
There is definitely a difference in types of PE; some is a lot better then others. The old "Tom's Model Works" stuff was colored brass, soft like brass, thin, and was a pleasure to work with. The newer stuff such as Eduard offers is brittle, silver in color, thick, and a (read female dog term) to work with. I read some time ago that different PE Producers use different material and the new (Nickle/silver) stuff is harder to work with.
For now i'll take your suggestion and just use more heat until I get the cooperation I want. (and I always anneal B4 painting; learned that lesson long ago!)
Cheers,
Lance

I used Tom's stuff on my USS Saratoga but it was not very good in my opinion accuracy wise. The GMM stuff is very good, as is Eduard. I know the Eduard stuff is nickel plated, but I find it is still easy to bend and I have never annealed it though.
I find that if you heat the WNW belts up until they change colour to a pinkish colour that is normall y hot enough. Rolling the machine-gun cooling jackets is simplicity itself when they are heated thus, and the seatbelts bend well as well.
I decided to try the HGW belts with my Roland, but they are very fiddly and the brackets used to mount the belts to the airframe are too small to allow the belts through. You also need to cut out the belts from the material unlike other fabric belts I have tried. The HGW ones are paper I think. The PE is also very hard to cut even with a fresh blade. It is made by Eduard but seems a bit thicker than other Eduard stuff.
Oh well, as they say 'some modelling skill helpful'.
Although I did read a comment where someone was saying that WNW kits are too easy to build and because of that they don't fall together.. huh?? He then went on to say that Roden kits are better as they are more difficult to build.. sorry?!?!?!
Enough of my observations.
That wood work looks great Lance.

Thanks Warren, my reaction to the Roden vs. WNW Kits statement is also "Huh !??!!?"
Cheers,
Lance

Well Lance, I haven't been on the forum for a-bit, but you've impressed me big time. That dash and the rigging just looks sweet. Thank-you for showing us the way.

Around here, it hasn't rained for a whole 32 minutes, but, I'll get back to my project as soon as I enjoy that little bit of summer. Its unpinned, and lost somewhere in the void.

Hope you continue, your doing a wonderful job and educating a whole world of good people.

Guy,
Thanks for the wonderful compliments; more then deserved but definitely nice to receive. I did not get any minutes without rain again today, it's starting to get to me..glad I have a hobby or I'd be crazier then I am already!

UPDATE:
On the brighter side a little more progress. Got the engine done, elected to not install the spark wires as they are completely hidden once the engine is covered by the cowling. Used some of Guy's black pigment for highlighting and it's ready to install. It's amazing how a change in light direction/orientation can change the shade of the colors. The lighter photo is the real colors.


Also buttoned up the fuselage at last and filled, sanded, and primed the top and bottom joins. Certainly no issues there.

The rear underside; glad I did the work to finish a part of the inside. Once I clean up or repaint the bungee/rope wrap on the skid (again picked up the gaff with the primer in the photo, not before) she'll be done for that part.

Next steps, permanently join the lower wing, a short side job to finish the Vickers MG, and it'll be pre-shade time.
More to follow soon.............

Cheers,
Lance

Been sitting in the side lines watching you progress on your build ....Well done so far Lance ! She is coming along very well , wood graining looks the part

Thanks Terri, so far, so good. Makes a big difference to be working with a quality product for sure.

Rainy Day Story:
Since it was raining here last night and again this morning............no work to be done on the lawns etc. I was concerned that I get at least to the "ready to paint" stage before leaving in two days for the 10 day vacation I mentioned earlier: certainly no problem as the rain has me housebound, such a pity!
Late yesterday the considerable amount of masking for the pre-shading step was completed. Initially I didn't think the fuselage would benefit much from the treatment but on reviewing a large number of photos in the references realised that the sides below the cockpit and the "turtle decking"along the spine really stand out. The spine area is very subtle molding on the kit (and was subject to a little sanding when joined) and I'm hoping to bring out the stringers a bit more with some shading. If that fails I may just re-do the deck with some raised strips.

First thing this morning I loaded up the Iwata equalizer: I used the same dark grey thinned down mixture as on my last build. It worked out well previously and, if too dark, can be adjusted with heavier sprays of the final color.

A closer shot of the fuselage; the moulding of the stringers along the spine are virtually invisible without some color contrast.


This will be my last update for a week or two. Get back here on the 10th of the month and it will take me a few days to ease back into the routine and catch up on the yard work after an absence. Also hope to get to at least two good Hobby Shops; big event in a country boy's life. You just never have enough widgets, extra paints, and maybe even a kit or two could be smuggled into the house. I'll be checking the site daily to see what's new and to keep up with you folks in all your efforts.

Cheers,
Lance

Good luck Lance! Be safe.

Thank You Stephen,
An old (Canadian at least) Fighter Pilot wish; "if you can't be safe at least be lucky!" Either works for me.

Cheers,
Lance