Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
KotS III GB Fokker Dr.I
Kornbeef
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, March 04, 2013 - 07:44 PM UTC
A shame but glad you could make a recovery, I had some simikar issues with a 1/48th Driedecker that I got over enthusiastic (to put it lightly) with mixing paints and ignoring drying times too. After a few days ot looked like a dried up duckpond on a hot summers day after a month of drought. Didnt smell an awful lot better either.


Oh and as an after thought see the small square upon the upper wing. It should be further forwards and not so prominant either, Its an inspection window to check the spar serial No so should sit just behind a line with the interplane strut centres. (only if you havent begun repainting yet of course.)

Keith
OEFFAG_153
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Västra Götaland, Sweden
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Posted: Monday, March 04, 2013 - 08:08 PM UTC
Hi Julian, Shame about the streaking trouble – it is a bit of a difficult technique, but with the "practice run" I'm sure you will be fine the second time around

Engine and prop are looking really good – look forward to more!

Mikael
Gremlin56
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Posted: Monday, March 04, 2013 - 11:20 PM UTC
Thanks Keith, a small mod to move the inspection hatch.
Thanks Mikael, I realise now it's the wrong prop so I can give it another go with right one
Cheers,
Julian
Kornbeef
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 12:03 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks Keith, a small mod to move the inspection hatch.
Thanks Mikael, I realise now it's the wrong prop so I can give it another go with right one
Cheers,
Julian

Props had short life spans so don't lose sleep over that.
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 12:32 AM UTC
Being made of wood I can imagine
I painted the "pointy" prop instead of the "blunt ended "Prop".
Most photos I see of the Dr.I have the blunt prop fitted or is it a case of modeller's choice here?
Julian
Kornbeef
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 02:29 AM UTC
Both were used, probaby others too. The blunt one as you call it by Axial was most common yes but the poity Heine prop was used too.

Pic's of Kempf's craft though do show the Axial prop.
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 04:21 AM UTC
Yep, been having a quick run through Windsock etc. I can't find a single pic of Kempf's Fokker with a Garuda prop. I am also trying to puzzle out the very minimal rigging. the upper wing is braced at the forward cabane struts, the wires cross each other just below the Mg. nozzles. The control wires (2 each side?) go straight from the fuselage in front of the cockpit to the upper wing. The undercarriage is only rigged at the forward struts with the wires crossing each other. Hope I got this right.
Only rigging wires would have turn-buckles I figure, 1 turn-buckle per wire?

Julian
Kornbeef
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England - South East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 04:52 AM UTC
yes you got it, turnbuckles at the top of the wing bracing and at the bottom of the axlewing bracing. You will probably find it easier to drill holes where they mount before getting too far into assembly.
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 05:00 AM UTC
Thanks Keith,
that's a great help, not much rigging on this little flea but all the more reason to get it right
Paint work proceeding according to plan at the moment.
Slow and easy
Julian
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 06:21 AM UTC
Upper wing part 2:
After cleaning the wing using methylated spirits and odourless artists thinner I am making a more planned offensive on the upper wing. Now in the process of adding ribbing tape:




The idea is to do all the acrylic paint work first, seal it in with acrylic varnish, mask all that doesn't need the Fokker wash and then switch to oils
Well, sounds logical to me at this moment in time
Julian


Doh,...................spot the blooper.
No panic, this can be fixed he said, banging head against wall and gnashing teeth.
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 03:34 PM UTC




Quoted Text

Doh,...................spot the blooper.
No panic, this can be fixed he said, banging head against wall and gnashing teeth.



White field too narrow by 1 rib space.
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 06:33 PM UTC
You got it Stephen,
could really kick myself for this
Julian
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, March 05, 2013 - 10:25 PM UTC
Has anyone here tried this little gem yet?

http://www.scaleplasticandrail.com/kaboom/index.php/all-things-aviation/132-135-scale/132-aftermarket-items/1778-1-32-oberursel-ui-engine-from-taurus-models

I ordered one from Jadar Hobbies in Poland today. It looks amazing,
cheers,
Julian

P.s. takes a while to load so don't give up too fast
Mgunns
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Arizona, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 - 01:33 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Upper wing part 2:
The idea is to do all the acrylic paint work first, seal it in with acrylic varnish, mask all that doesn't need the Fokker wash and then switch to oils
Well, sounds logical to me at this moment in time
Julian


Doh,...................spot the blooper.
No panic, this can be fixed he said, banging head against wall and gnashing teeth.



Sounds like a well thought out plan of attack. I think you will like your results much better than the first go around. I did see the blooper, but; it is on the underside and once you get the paint on it will hardly be noticeable, if at all.
I am looking forward to see how you tackle the streaking.

Best

Mark
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 - 02:26 AM UTC
Hi Mark,
no, it was the topside and not the underside
I have fixed it though and not a trace of the respray to be found
I will try a round rough brush and a fan brush on scrap before diving into the final attack.
It is certainly not as easy as it appears and my respect for the Bi-, Tri- and Eindekkers here on this forum is growing enormously
Julian
Gremlin56
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Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2013 - 04:22 AM UTC
March 9th update:
Added the oil to the upper wing. Now leaving it alone until the oil has dried completely.Then a coat of Vallejo matt varnish and it will be ready for decals. I think with the decals added it won't look too shabby:





Cheers,
Julian
JackFlash
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Colorado, United States
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Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2013 - 08:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Has anyone here tried this little gem yet?

http://www.scaleplasticandrail.com/kaboom/index.php/all-things-aviation/132-135-scale/132-aftermarket-items/1778-1-32-oberursel-ui-engine-from-taurus-models

I ordered one from Jadar Hobbies in Poland today. It looks amazing,
cheers,
Julian

P.s. takes a while to load so don't give up too fast



Actually mine just arrived from Taurus Models today. Great for the early Fokker E & D. rotary fighters. Here is the January 2013 news item.

Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2013 - 08:44 AM UTC
Exactly the plan Stephen,
A Fokker Eindekker with upmarket radial,
cheers,
Julian
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, March 10, 2013 - 02:09 AM UTC
The Roden decals are indeed rather dire
Stiff, thick and tear if you look at them
Challenging to say the least........
Julian
Gremlin56
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 06:45 AM UTC
March 12th update:
1914-18 calling card:




That's how it's going to be. Maybe a bit more brown would have been more accurate but I am quite happy I tamed the decals here
Julian
DanielMoscatelli
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Montevideo, Uruguay
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 07:11 AM UTC
I do not understand anything of these birds.

But I like very much the visual result obtained . Congratulations friend.
Continue for the good way.

Regards Daniel
Jessie_C
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British Columbia, Canada
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 07:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The Roden decals are indeed rather dire
Stiff, thick and tear if you look at them
Challenging to say the least........
Julian



Try the boiling water trick. Once they're down and dried, dip a sponge or cloth into just-boiled water (protect your fingers!) and press straight down on the decal. It takes the decals from this:

to this:

You still have to do touching up, but much less than before.
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2013 - 07:25 AM UTC
Hi there Daniel,
Thank you, different from the "Big B" isn't it
A different sort of challenge, maybe you can be tempted, just like with the Borodino
Bless you Jessie,
That is a very handy tip. I'll try that in the next decal assault. These were melted into shape by Mr. Mark softer and fixer. Sheer chemical warfare
Cheers,
Julian
javlin
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Mississippi, United States
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Posted: Thursday, March 14, 2013 - 02:55 AM UTC
Well well well I finally found you Jules been looking around the forum and I find you at WWI I here ya brother I have been walking the same road of late.I have an Albi D.V on the table ATTM.These WWI planes have so many different schemes to play with.Nice wing colors Jules and yes Roden decals suc for the most part.My Ni-28 had to paint the national emblems
Gremlin56
Joined: October 30, 2005
KitMaker: 3,897 posts
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Posted: Thursday, March 14, 2013 - 07:40 AM UTC
Hi Kevin,
Long time no read
I have been doing lots of different builds in some unusual places/sites. Spent a couple of months on the Airfix tribute forum building aircraft. At the moment dividing my build time on the the "Whale", ( Trumpie 1/200th Bismarck on modelshipwrights), and the "Flea", ( Frits Kemp's Fokker Dr.1).
The Roden decals are amazing: first time I have brushed Gunze Sangyo's decal liquids on anything and seen absolutely no reaction The decals can probably be used as armour plating
What are you up to these days?
Cheers,
Julian