World War II
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GWH 1/48 scale P-61A Black Widow
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, December 12, 2013 - 02:21 AM UTC

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So far I've only completed one engine, and one engine boom. But the other engine boom won't have any panels opened, so the work should go much faster.

Joel


That cowling the cowling flaps and the engine are really looking the part Joel, keep up this very good work



Mal,

Thanks for your encouragement and comments.

I've just about finished the 1st engine, and have started the 2nd one. After test fitting the engine into the cowling, and looking into it from the front, I was really surprised at just how little you can see of it, and that's without the spinner and prop. Will be taking even more shortcuts with the 2nd engine, since no one will ever really see it. What you do see is the exhausts behind the cowling flaps.

Joel
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Posted: Thursday, December 12, 2013 - 07:49 PM UTC

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Thanks for your encouragement and comments.


No problem mate, I don't think that you need encouragement I was just stating a fact

Yes I have read that the exhausts on the 1/32 Hobby Boss kit are wrong! so I'm waiting to see what Derek Bradshaw comes up with, before tackling mine; plus i have a couple of other models that I need to get done first. I must admit though that watching this, and the other P-61 builds makes me itch to get started
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 - 09:32 AM UTC
Finally a interior update.

Started working on the fuselage interior. I must say that the kit is very well detailed, and not a lot can be added, other then more wiring, better oxygen lines, a few floor levers, and small details here and there.

I started with the cockpit fuselage walls. on the right side wall I added a few more boxes, wiring, new oxygen lines, etc. The oxygen hoses are made from solid wire, then wrapped with a thinner diameter wire. When painted, I'm planning on applying a few heavy coats to help fill in the winds so that it looks like a flex hose with internal wire supports. There is a much larger line that runs along the floor and to the front of the cockpit. I ended up using a piece wire sheathing. I removed the sheathing from the copper wire so that the bend would have a nice even radius to it.





On the left cockpit fuselage wall I started to detail the throttle assembly. Added a top plate, and 5 throttles. Additional holes were drilled for the throttle rods.



The knobs still need a few more coats of PVA glue to form the knobs. There is a panel just in front of the throttle that needs to be added, and two gauges that are mounted on the canopy sill.

Then rear fuselage compartment needed some details to bring it up to the level of detail as the rest of the fuselage.





In order to mold the wing mount surfaces on the exterior sides of the fuselage completely flat, the interior fuselage walls could no longer maintain the correct shape. A separate piece is glued into the cavity to correct this issue. I added additional Formers & Stringers so that the part blends in nicely. This is really a nice touch as most model companies just leave this area as an eye sore. I then added the rear compartment oxygen hose and mask. I also added a few electrical boxes and wiring to busy up the bulkhead.

The lower rear bulkhead was detailed with a few braces. I drilled out 3 lightening holes. the actual part should have 5 holes, but As I played with it, it just didn't look right, so I left out the bottom 2 holes.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2013 - 06:34 AM UTC
Finally finished detailing, painting, and weathering the interior. Just one silly issue that still drives me nuts. After dry brushing with light gray rather then silver, as it looks more natural for some reason especially since all the surfaces are natural metal under the paint, the dry brushing looks like wear areas, yet when I take close up pictures of them, they always appear like paint spattering. Maybe I should try enamel paints rather then acrylics.

The cockpit front office is painted interior green. Tamiya XF-4 & XF-5 with a drop of XF-1, thinned 1:1 with X20-A. The lower portions of the fuselage are painted Yellow Zinc Chromate: Tamiya XF-4 thinned with X20-A 1:1.
As I said, I dry brushed the surfaces with Tamiya Sea Gray XF-19. Then a overall filter wash of Model Master Enamel Raw Sienna heavily diluted in plain Jane Mineral Spirits.

Joel



















raypalmer
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Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2013 - 08:25 AM UTC
Joel that's incredible. Especially the scratch building. I know what you mean about dry brushing acrylics. I dodge it by using colored pencils and/or a dry brush with a very small amount of chalk pastel powder. These two deliver a more controlled result than usual dry brushing. Maybe do a bit of a highlight spray? A super-dilute mixture of either white, grey, buff, or the base colour and then lay it on from one direction. The result will give a high and low effect like a single light source. Also lightens it up and scales the colour. Another thing I do to avoid dry brushing

Keep showing us progress. I'm an impatient modeller and your work inspires.

Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2013 - 08:44 AM UTC
Richard, for both the positive comments, and the alternatives to dry brushing with Acrylics. Just don't remember these issues with enamels in the old days. Then again, we didn't take close up photos either. My issue with caulks is that they would blow off when I seal with flat air brushed on. Thinking of trying a light gray artists pencil for the line work.

Joel
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Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2013 - 12:12 PM UTC
Joel,

Great work so far. Not easy to do so many different plumbing sizes & shapes, at least to me

I experienced the same issue that concerns you with dry brushing certain acrylics, and as you, only became aware thanks to photo close ups.
The only brand I've found to achieve a good dry effect is Vallejo Air, as you know made for airbrushing, but oddly works better that their brush brand imo. Have you tried these?

Cheers
Pedro
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Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2013 - 12:31 PM UTC
Nice progress so far Joel , your add on's bring that little extra life to the build !




Terri
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Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2013 - 12:42 PM UTC
Great work so far Joel. The weathering looks good, the only little thing I would add is some black pin wash on the silver bottles to bring some deeper relief to the straps.
I use Tamiya acrylic Flat Aluminium for my dry brushing and just build it up slowly with successive applications.

I am finding it very hard to resist buying one of these GWH kits, but equally hard to justify when I still have six of the old Revellogram kits in the stash along with resin, decals and PE for a couple of them. I have built two of them in the past and have not experienced the difficulties that others seem to have faced, except for the glass. I will be grabbing a Vector glass set for my next build for sure.

Anyway, following your build is making it even harder to pass over one of these at the LHS, keep up the great work!

Cheers, D
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2013 - 12:48 PM UTC

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Joel,

Great work so far. Not easy to do so many different plumbing sizes & shapes, at least to me

I experienced the same issue that concerns you with dry brushing certain acrylics, and as you, only became aware thanks to photo close ups.
The only brand I've found to achieve a good dry effect is Vallejo Air, as you know made for airbrushing, but oddly works better that their brush brand imo. Have you tried these?

Cheers
Pedro



Pedro, thanks for the kind words.
Haven't tried any Vallejo paints simply because I have to order them. Thinking that since you've experienced their made for airbrushing paints works perfectly for dry brushing, then maybe I should thin our the Tamiya acrylics. Right now I've been using them straight out of the bottle. Better, yet, I'll go that route with enamels too. Will post my results.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2013 - 12:50 PM UTC

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Nice progress so far Joel , your add on's bring that little extra life to the build ! Terri



Terri, thanks so much for stopping by. Glad you like my efforts to date.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2013 - 12:53 PM UTC
Damian, Believe it or not, I applied a single black wash on those bottles. But you really can't see it. Guess I used way to diluted of a mixture, so I'll apply it again.

I've never built the Revell/Monogram kit, but Jessica's got one going. Why not join our unofficial GB with one from your stash. You've got plenty of AM stuff to make it that much more special.

Joel
thegirl
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Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2013 - 02:02 PM UTC

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Nice progress so far Joel , your add on's bring that little extra life to the build ! Terri



Terri, thanks so much for stopping by. Glad you like my efforts to date.

Joel



Your welcome Joel . I will be following this one with very keen interest . Santa left one under my tree and I must say , the level of detail is outstanding ! I'm impressed with the print that came with the kit . Will be getting this framed ! Do you plan on using the supplied the mask ?





Terri
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, December 26, 2013 - 02:28 PM UTC

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Nice progress so far Joel , your add on's bring that little extra life to the build ! Terri



Terri, thanks so much for stopping by. Glad you like my efforts to date.

Joel



Your welcome Joel . I will be following this one with very keen interest . Santa left one under my tree and I must say , the level of detail is outstanding ! I'm impressed with the print that came with the kit . Will be getting this framed ! Do you plan on using the supplied the mask ?

Terri



Terri, The pressure is now on for sure.

I'm framing both the P-61A print, and the one that came with my Devastator. They are works of art. And they're free!

As for the masks. I didn't like the ones with that came with the Devastator. Some were over sized, and some were undersized. None had enough tack to stick to any curvature. I did use a few. I used Tamiya tape to mask out the fuselage windows as they need to stay on for a long time till I even get to the painting stage.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 04:26 AM UTC
Well, I've finally finished the interior of the fuselage the best I can. Not perfect by a long shot, but better then any of my previous efforts.

I decided to paint and install that funnel type tube under the fuselage top turret gun, and of course once the fuselage is glued up, it can't be seen. You can see in the photograph below that the bulkheads on either side will block any view of it. So just leave it out. Honestly, I can't see why they even included it in the 1st place.

I bought Terry Dean's 2 piece weight set, and it's worth every penny. Actually, they were more then reasonable. $6.33 for two complete sets, plus shipping clear across the country. One weight slides into the front of the fuselage and butts up against the back of the IP. The 2nd weight slides into the small opening below the main floor. both needed a little file work to get them to fit. I fitted both after I glued up the fuselage sections. I really think that the one that goes behind the IP would be much easier to install before as you have to file off enough of the lead to get past one set of pins. DO NOT DROP the completed fuselage on your toes, and this baby is now really heavy.



The various interior sections are complex, and do line up quite well with the mounting raised guides on the fuselage sides. They also line up quite well to each other. With that being said, it's nearly impossible (at least for me) once you glue them up to one side to get them to all line up perfectly to the other side when you're trying to mate the two halves together. I fought the good fight, but I'm sure that a section end or two is on not over one of those mounting brackets. This caused some gaps that will have to be death with after the glue has dried.

This isn't the 1st time I've had these type of issues. From now on, my new procedure will be to remove those mounting guide brackets from one side prior to interior painting.

Joel







Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 04:42 AM UTC
A few quick notes. The IP really looks good with all those instruments. Each one is a separate decal. Issue here is that each one has the usual amount of flash around them. That makes decal placement difficult. I used several doses of Micro set to get the flash to lay down. Lenses are a few coats of Pledge.

A much easier method is to use a punch set and either use PVA glue to glue them in place, or decal them in place. Of course, I've still haven't purchased a punch set. The only one's that are of real use for us modelers are from Micro Mark, and they both cost over $60 each. Going to buy one anyway, as I really need a good quality set.

From viewing these pictures, I can see that all the handling I've done with the interior, I've scrapped off some of the paint from the throttles that will have to be repainted.

Joel


thegirl
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Posted: Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 11:43 AM UTC
Man , that is shaping up wonderfully Joel . For a punch set Hasegawa has their own line of tools . They two set's . One micro and one for punching larger disc which is perfect for instruments .

http://www.hasegawausa.com/product-pages/hsgr7138.html


I still want to get the micro one for finer detailing ...some day .



Terri
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Posted: Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 02:06 PM UTC
Wow joel ots come a long way since I last had a look good job man.detail is coming out great
Joel_W
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Posted: Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 03:32 PM UTC
Justin, Really nice to see you back.Thanks for those kind words. Believe me it's been quite a learning experience.
Holdfast
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Posted: Sunday, December 29, 2013 - 07:35 PM UTC
Yes Joel that is looking really good Everytime I see this it makes me itch to get on with my 1/32 scale P-61; but I have to resist a little longer as I have a couple of other models which I need to finish first.

Keep up the good work, I'm looking forward to seeing the end result
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, December 30, 2013 - 12:55 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Man , that is shaping up wonderfully Joel . For a punch set Hasegawa has their own line of tools . They two set's . One micro and one for punching larger disc which is perfect for instruments .

http://www.hasegawausa.com/product-pages/hsgr7138.html
I still want to get the micro one for finer detailing ...some day .

Terri



Terri,
Just took a look at that Hasegawa two piece punch set. Not sure it's what I'm looking for. I need a micro set that has enough different dia punches to punch out the various dia. sizes of the instruments on a decal sheet. The Micro set, like the old Waldron set (wish I had one of those), has a precision base and clear acetate cover plate. Without it, how do you make sharp and accurate punches?

Here's the set I'm getting for $59.95 plus shipping. It includes 9 precisely ground and hardened steel punches ranging from 1.0 mm (0.039 inch) to 5.0 mm (0.197 inch) diameter in 0.5 mm (0.0197 inch) increments. Approx. overall size: 1-1/4 inches x 2-5/8 inches.

Joel

Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, December 30, 2013 - 01:03 AM UTC

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Yes Joel that is looking really good Everytime I see this it makes me itch to get on with my 1/32 scale P-61; but I have to resist a little longer as I have a couple of other models which I need to finish first.

Keep up the good work, I'm looking forward to seeing the end result



Mal,
Looking forward to your joining the party, especially now that Justin is back. Sure wish I had the room for 1/32 scale aircraft, but my model/computer room is only 10/10 ft.
Joel
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Posted: Monday, December 30, 2013 - 01:10 AM UTC

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Here's the set I'm getting for $59.95 plus shipping.



Joel, perhaps before you decide. Take a look at the JMC Hobby punch sets. I have both sizes of JMC's punches, plus the set you've pictured. All are useful, I just find JMC's more precise due to the 4 post bottom plate over the 2 post, and I like those better.
Plus I like the brass hammering barrel on JMC's tools. Its hard to see what side of the tool you've been hitting on the tool steel barrels you've pictured.



Adde the photo as an edit, once I found it. Comes in 2 sizes micro or bigger.
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, December 30, 2013 - 01:58 AM UTC
Ben, thanks for the info and the link. Took a good long look at both punch sets. I really would need both to cover the same size range as the Micro set. That's nearly $140 for both, which is way more then I would like to spend as 90% of the time the only use would be for IP gauges. Still, it's something I need to think about.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, January 01, 2014 - 08:29 AM UTC
Been working on installing all the glass, and I must say that I've been very disappointed in the overall fit of much of it. The main cockpit glass is just to tall and to wide. Leaving a lot of filing and sanding to get it close, but no matter how much I did, I couldn't get it to really fit well. Also, the top of the fuselage directly behind the cockpit glass and in front of the gun turret has a slight concave bow to it, which further complicates the fit issue. Rather then adding layers of Green stuff, I used a piece of .010 sheet behind the glass right up to the turret, sanded to shape and then blended it in with Green stuff.



The front of the cockpit turret had a really nasty lip that slowly decreased as it worked its way to the sides of the fuselage. Here, I used a series of small pieces of .010 sheet to create a step effect. Sanded to basic shape, then blended in with Green stuff.





You can also see a small piece of .010 plastic sheet used to shim the front radar glass.

The Gunners compartment glass isn't too bad with just some sanding and blending with Green stuff. You can also see in the photo below one of the fuselage shims I used. I really don't like using Green stuff to fill voids, canyons, or large reshaping/defining. Rather I use plastic, or CCA thick glue, then finish off with Green stuff. I usually thin the final application with Thin liquid cement. That's the stage I'm at right now.



Joel