Thanks Mal

Joel

Looking sharp Joel. Great finish on the gloss black. Decals look the business too

Mike, thanks for taking the time to post your positive assessment.

Finished up the basic weathering today. Paint chipping is up next.

Joel

Looking sharp Joel, very nice work!

Cheers, D

Damian,
Thanks for the positive feedback. It's much appreciated.
Joel

Been working on the landing gear, and finally finished the painting and weathering today. A few builds that I read suggested that the main landing gear strut side bracket is only held in place by two very small pins, and that weak joint broke from the weight of the model when it was placed on its landing gear. It was suggested to brace that joint with the insertion of a steel pin, which I did. I drilled a hole from one pin to about halfway through the bracket. You can see the length of the pin in this picture.



After inserting the pin the joint seemed much stronger, as I couldn't wiggle the bracket.



I added the rest of the brake line that wasn't molded with the gear strut from wire. I painted the struts with Model Master Acrylic Aluminum, then applied a wash of black enamel paint. When dry, I painted the Oleo's with Allcad II Chrome. The chrome doesn't seem to show up very well do to the flash.



the other gear parts were also painted with MM Aluminum and a the black wash.

I test fitted all three gear struts, and I have to say I'm somewhat concerned that the small pins on the ends of the struts are all that in reality holds up the gear. Does anyone know if that's an issue I should be concerned with?
Joel

JA
Nice work on the gear, as the NMF looks right on the money. The mains look as if the Weight will be transferred up through the large T brace at the top but I see what you are concerned about with the nose gear and the two small locating pins. I would suggest using Tamiya Orange cap glue for attaching the nose gear as it should help provide a stronger joint.
Bro

Pete, thanks, and will do, as I was thinking the same Thing. Lately I've been toying with the idea of buying a tube of Testors glue like we used in the old days.
Joel

JA
If you can find the old formula tube glue, totally agree .. it's like steel when dry.
Bro

Bro,
Isn't the red tube of Testors the old formula?
Joel

Sweet build thus far Joel. The aluminum finish on the landing gear looks very nice!

Ernest

Ernest, Thanks so much for your positive comments. Will be re-doing the silver Oleos again with Alcad II Chrome, as there just isn't enough visual difference in that picture for the look I was trying to achieve.
Joel

Hey Joel

I really like what you done with this kit so far . A few issues but as you have shown that they are easily fixable .
Well done so far !





Terri

JA
Waiting for the latest update.
Bro

Terri,
Thanks so much for those most encouraging words, and joining us for the ride. Believe me, I've learned a ton from the build, not to mention that this is the largest model I've ever built. The twin booms really added all sorts of challenges including just painting that I've never had to deal with before.

I've finished the majority of the weathering except for the balance of the paint chipping, took some pictures, and will post later today. There is a vast difference in the before and after. Mal was curious as how I as going to weather the decals, they're weathered, and show the effects of the elements without any paint chipping effects.

All that's left to build at this point is 1 1/2 engines, modified radar antennas, and a add the remaining bits & pieces. Finally, the end of the journey is insight.

Joel

JA
Just check on my problem. Yup, it works just fine on Aeroscale
Bro

Been working on the weathering of the Widow, and as my usual practice I like the weathering effect to be what my Brother has termed: Used but not Abused. It really does fit for most USA WWII aircraft.

I sealed the decals with several coats of Pledge. Tested out a brownish enamel pin wash but just didn't like it as it didn't contrast with the Black at all, so I decided to use Flory's acrylic light sludge wash mixed with some of his dark sludge wash. The 1st application was just over all the recessed panel lines, when dry the excess was removed with a moist towel and Qtip. Then a few coats of the light/Dark, then just the light, trying to get an uneven faded finish on all the surfaces that receive sunlight. Unfortunately, no matter how I tried, these acrylic washes just don't do a good job with the blotchy effect I wanted. The original fading was done with an air brush, and I think from here on in, I'll do it that way.

I sealed the acrylic washes in Testors Dullcoat, so that I could see how the finish really looked. Then I applied a few coats of various earth colors thinned to the consistency of India Ink. Heavier applications of dirt were applied over the decals. Then a final coat of Dullcoat.

What's left is the paint chipping, and some staining. Never of which will be done to any great extent.

Here's a few pictures of the Widow now.
















After carefully looking at the pictures, I was rather disappointed in the thickness of the stars and bars decals, while the lettering looks more painted on.

Also, I used Terry Deans weight set, and after testing the Widow with the wheels on (the main wheels are a much larger dia. then the front wheel, which should have shifted more weight forward), the Widow still is a tail sitter, but by just a tad. I'm wondering if all the added sheet plastic, and bits and parts I added, effected the total weight and distribution enough to cause it? In any event I'll be adding a very small clear piece of sprue to the rear access hatch door to correct this problem.

Joel

I don't have much luck with washes either which is why I use pastels for 95% of my weathering , you can custom blend them with endless various of combinations . And if you aren't happy wit results wash if and start over . Your weather looks fine to me so don't be too hard on yourself .


If you ever do another all black scheme a little flat flesh mix in and it will aid in the over effect of the washes .





Terri

Hi Joel,
Looking good
The star and bar do look thick, it looks like the wash has accumulated around them which will help to make them look thicker?
Just a personal thing, but I'm not sure about the light wash The wash itself is well done but I just think that it just too much of a contrast. Of course it doesn't matter what I think Some time ago I saw a hurricane built with black undersides which was remarkable and it is what I will try and emulate on my P-61. The panels were done in a similar fashion to a NMF but using shades of "black", actually none of the panels were black; as black is only a very dark shade of blue, brown, grey, green,red, etc so were these panels and, because of this he could use a black wash. The difference in the shades was minimal, just sufficient to make them interesting and the black wash brought it all together. You may have heard the term "scale black", this was different shades of scale black I will have to do an experiment to see if I can achieve my recollection of the look.
I think that you have done a wonderful job on this and I look forward to seeing the whole finished

Terri, Many years ago, OK, nearly 40 years ago, I tried pastels but never could get the hang of them. Went on fine, but no matter how light a 1st few seal coats I put on, I managed to wash most of it right off.

When you apply your pastels, do you do it dry to just the painted surface, or do you coat the surface 1st?

Would adding a flesh color just give me a slightly different shade of black? Interesting idea, just not sure if the color difference would be enough.

Joel

Mal,
Never heard, nor saw any technique like that before. It does have it's merits. I can see how using various shades of black tinted not only with different shades of gray, but with Reds, & Blues, then a wash of black would achieve a more classic panel line look.

The look that I was after, was what I actually saw with the semi gloss black as light reflected off the edges of the various recessed panel lines. It did look lighter, not darker, which is why I tried to simulate that effect with a grayish color. Maybe the answer would have been to use a gloss or semi gloss black wash! Now there's a idea I've never even considered.

Anyway, I'm looking forward to your 1/32 scale build. It should be a brilliant effort based on your dedication to accuracy & detail with your Dragon 1/32 scale Bf110C-7.

Joel

Maybe this has now gone full circle but here are some tank and figure people referencing aircraft folks on washes for black finishes...
Pin washes on Black

Mark, thanks for the link. The general consensus of opinion was a slightly lighter color more towards the natural surrounding environment. One suggestion was a dark gray for the main color, then a black pin wash. That doesn't make much sense, as you're changing the actual color of the aircraft so that you can use a darker pin wash.

Really dark colors have always presented this issue. I've seen many models using the lighter color for a pin wash. As I said, while it's not realistic for the actual recesses, it does add to the allusion of light reflection from the corners of the recesses.

If I would have just left the weathered surfaces as is, the large expanse of those surfaces would be less interesting as there would be less to hold the viewers eye, as well as to see the small details.

Just my opinion and 2 cents worth.
Joel

I used a 50:50 mix of Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black and Flat Red-Brown for my "scale black" on a couple of 48th scale aircraft and it worked quite well. I could use straight black on the panel lines and lighter shades of earth for washes and they all contrasted nicely.

I think your finish on this build is looking great, I'm looking forward to seeing her with the cowlings fitted.

Cheers, D

Well lucky me, I'm 200 miles away from the victim, so I can't share pictures. But, I tried to use white (dry brush?) toweather a flat black U-2. We were setting up a display, and the guy helping me got out his brush and tried to wipe all the 'dust' away.