Started this kit aaaaaalong time ago and got as far on starting the re-shading . Some how it ended up back in it's box resting in the stash . It was the fit of the cowl parts , which kinda surprised me for I have built this kit many times over and didn't have any fit issues .

The under side was sprayed Tamiya blue along the panel lines . This was toned down just a tad too blend this in . Top side was first sprayed with various panels being pick out in light grey to dark grey . No masking was done for this , it was free hand . Once this sat for a few days the bottom was sprayed Tamiya light blue with just a touch of white built up in thin layers . Few days later the was masked off in per for the White . For the white I went with a gloss white . Normally I use flat white for it sprays better with less coats , but for the effect I'm after there is better control with the gloss . A few areas got a little less paint while other areas took a few more passes with the airbrush . The white was masked and the yellow was sprayed . This is my own mix using Tamiya paints ( yellow and orange ) . Will have to see how this turns out after weathering and flat coat , I feel I should have added one more drop of orange ...


Hey Joel , see I do build more than just those string and wood thingies !














Terri

Terri,
So I see.

Your build looks rock solid. If you had an issue with the gun cowl, you got it just about perfect.

The bottom paint looks great, as the gray does show some panel fading and discoloration. The Yellow on the bottom looks like yellow. My question is as that strip proceeds up the side, across the top spline, then down the other side, seems to be more of an orange color. Is this correct, or is this a issue of color shift due to the digital photography process and the related lighting?

I know next to nothing about German WW11 aircraft camo schemes, so I'm a true neophyte as to right and wrong.

Joel

But where do the struts and rigging go?

Hi Joel , It would be my crappy photo skills which makes the yellow on the under side of the airframe to look different compared to the fuselage band . The yellow I was going far is RLM04 which has a orange effect to it . I'm far from a expert when it comes to colour but I do have a good eye for it or so I have been told . The effect looks much better in person then what shows up in the photos .



Jessie , Only two struts on this one for the landing gear and the only rigging will be the radio antenna





Terri

Terri,
The color shift has always been a issue with digital cameras, especially if you shoot in JPEG format with or without flash. Natural light will offer the most consistent & accurate colors in the same lighting conditions. I shoot in RAW format so that I can better control the White Balance. These days I try not to use flash for my final pictures, preferring a pair of flood lights instead.

Looking forward to you actually finishing this FW190 build. After all, it has half the amount of wings, no braces, and only the slightest amount of rigging. I do envy you with the skills and patient to build those WW1 aircraft. I would be completely lost.

Joel

They're not that bad, Joel. Come to the dark side. We have sticks and strings.

Jess, I just might take you up on that offer some time this year. I do like to play with sticks and strings.
Joel

Hey Terri!

I am calling Interpol to start a missing person report! No second wing, struts and turnbuckles? Where's the real Terri!?

Your FW looks good. It'll look better with lozenge...

Calling them will do no good Fred , will just jump to a different gen and model something else

Yesterday was spent getting the decals on and sealed for starting the weathering which I should be able to get going today .









Terri

Terri,
The decaling came out perfect. Not a drop of flash to been seen. Looking forward to seeing your weathering techniques, especially those pastel caulks. Please take plenty of pictures of each step.

Joel

Hi Joel , sadly there will be a bit of silvering on the small decals . The film itself has a dull appearance so I'm hoping once the dull coat is layed down it will take care of this . I will try and take a few pic's for you once I get going on the panel lines . Will be doing a pastel pin wash . I did get the wheel wells weathered and the landing gear assembled and weathered as well . Once rest of the air frame is done they will get glued in place . I do it now and one will be knocked off ... Parts are drying right now once they are able to be handled I get some pic's .





Terri

Terri,
Pastel pin washes. Now that's interesting. I've done pin washes with acrylics (yuck), enamel oils, and my current favorite Model Master enamel paints, but never with pastels. Are they oil/enamel based?

Personally, I'm looking forward to going to school and learning a few things. Even us old dogs can learn a new technique or two.

As far as the silvering goes, if it's just the fact that the decal is a matt texture, it will disappear as you weather over it, then the flat coat. silvering from trapped air is a whole different ballgame.
Joel

Here is my efforts so far on weathering the wheel wells and landing gear . The landing gear I airbrushed RLM 02 grey using Tamiya acrylic . The boot protectors got a coat of Vallejo black and sealed with dull coat . Once dried a wash was mix up using Vallejo black and leather belt thinned with water and applied to the struts and inner gear doors covers . A dry brushing of a lighter shade of the base colour was followed finishing off with a vert light dry brushing of alum powered . The wheel wells I hand painted using Tamiya RLM02 ( XF-22 ). For this I dipped a flat brush in thinner first then into the paint . Weathering was done the same as the landing gear . Tail wheel strut got a heavy wash of Tamiya RLM02 and the wheel pick out with Vallejo black followed with the wash use above . This was left to dry for a few hours . Next is pastels . I grounded up sierra and dusted this over the inner doors , gears , wells . The main wheels I painted Vallejo black and once dried the tires got pick out with a mix of Vallejo black and grey to lighten . When all was dried a dusting of pastels on the wheels and tail wheel as well .


















Up next ...panel lines .




Terri

Terri, Outstanding to say the least. The main gear, wheels/tires, wells,& gear doors all have that same dirtish look, which blends them together, as it should be in real life.
Joel

Terri, nice "190" you have built there! Hannes Trautloft (the original pilot) would be proud to see it. Some years ago I had the same kit on my workbench but I went for the other version and that is still one of the best kits I have in my collection.

Joel, that yellow fuselage band is RLM 04, which has a bit of red in it, that gives it a slight touch of orange. I use No. 310 from Revell Aqua for that.

Jessie, I always thought the dark side of building model kits are military vehicles. If so, you can call me Darth Vader at the moment ....

Torsten

Hi Terri, Nice Fw190 you have there

Thanks guy's


Joel , One thing that I have notice over the years when it comes to weathering is most folks aren't consistent . Using just an all black wash over the whole airframe doesn't look right . Even with the per-shading folks will always use black . In the end though weathering really is a personal taste .


Torsten , Still have 3 more in the stash and is one of my favorite kits . Built the Tamiya kit and Eduards but I rather build the Hasegawa kit . It is a scheme which needs planning on the camo . I was going to go with a heavy weathered bird but fell to laziness ( didn't want to spray the camo ) so I went with different under tones of grey giving the appearance of something else under the white .



Mal , thanks for dropping by and having a peek





Terri

Terri,
I use a dark gray sludge wash as an overall effect and to pop out the panel lines. Over white or lite gray fuselage undersides I lighten up the dark sludge wash, but around the engine cowlings I go back to a darker wash.

I use to use black but it looks like a tic tac toe board. Way too contrasty. Been playing around with Burnt and Raw Sienna which look good on Olive Drab and Green. I started to use those two color washes for all interiors rather then black as it just looks a little more warmer in tone, like dirt would or should.

I don't like pre-shading as a general rule. 8 out of 10 aircraft models that are pre-shaded are done way too heavy handed, and always with black. The panels just don't realistically look faded and or dirty around the edges. The shading needs to be a few shades darker, but it's very difficult to get that variation to show through the airbrushing process. What's more the effect would look a lot better if only major panels were done, not all, especially on the bottom.

I've played around with post shading, as that's how I actually do my paint fading. Works well, and looks more realistic. I go darker and I go lighter. Works for me. Although I have a long, long learning curve before I'm close to really happy with the results.

Joel

Hi Terri, that is a nice looking Butcher Bird you're building. Well constucted and a smooth paint job. Very nice!

Sincerely,
Ernest

Hi Joel , I must say you have a very positive attitude on want to learn and try new methods

For doing the wash you will need a few things . Pastel chalks . Medium sanding stick and small dish or bowl warm water , dish soap and two brushes . One for mixing and the other of applying .

I used four shades for the under surface . Raw and Burnt Sienna , Raw umber and just a touch of black . All these colours are mixed together first . Add the water until a nice sludge . I just dip my brush into the dish soap and slowly mix this in . The soap will act as a carrier for the pastel . Don't worry if it looks grainy . The colours won't fully mix either , but this what you want . Kinda like putting a million dots of different colours in the panel lines . Apply this mix to the panel lines like any other wash . Within a few minutes use a soft cloth or even toilet tissue just dampen with water and remove the excess to what your taste is . This wash I only applied to the under side of the aircraft .

Top side was done in the same manner but I used the following pastels . White , grey , light grey and a touch of black .


Here is the end results . Still needs it sealant for the next weathering stage ...































Terri

Thanks Ernest for dropping by and having a peek




Terri

Terri, I always appreciate the educational qualities of your builds. I've used that 'sludge' technique with arylics over clear-coated enamel with great success. Never thought about using pastels, but, it makes more sense due to the color control.
It's the addition of the small amount of dish-soap that makes it easy to wipe and correct. A clear coat is absolutely necessary to lock it in.

Terri,
The weathering on your FW 190 is suburb. Actually, I had little doubt that your efforts would be any less after looking at several of your WW1 builds.

The difference in tone variation from bottom (darker) to top (lighter), is the technique I've been experimenting with. It's your use of pastel caulks that is different. The nearly unlimited color combinations is just much easier then using tubes of expensive oil paint, or in my case bottles of Model Master enamel paint.

One technique that I use is to lighten and or darken specific areas or panels via my airbrush. Post shading for fading is much easier then pre-shading, and the tone variations are nearly endless. I've used one different tone to several different tones all on the same panel by adding different colors to the mix, but keeping it to a 2;8 mix or so, that I shoot close up, and I mean close up at 10-12 psi. And this is with my Paasche 1H single action gun that I truly love.

I'm wondering if you can airbrush your pastel mix? My concern is that the fine powders don't always fully dissolve, and cause spitting or clogging. Have you ever done this?
Joel

Hi Ben , I've tried using acrylic and enamel paint for doing panel line washes but really never like the outcome so I started experimenting with pastels and I like how I had better colour control . An effect which paint just can't do .

Yes the wash does need to be sealed . I will wait 24 hours sometimes even longer for the soap to fully dry out just to be on the safe side .



Hey Joel , No don't run this through your airbrush . The chalk will clog it up . The chalk doesn't dissolve in the water and remains grainy .
I do mix the colours for different colours . I use a fine sanding stick and grind them together . A slow process but still recommended for spraying .

Always good to be trying new things and experimenting with different methods and mediums . We are always learning and improving on our skills no matter how advanced we are .






Terri