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World War II
Discuss WWII and the era directly before and after the war from 1935-1949.
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Lockheed P38L Lightning
Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 - 02:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks! Sounds like there's a little bit of practice involved. I wouldn't have thought about the 'smooth movement' part of the technique. I didn't pack my micro files for this trip, but I've got a few kits here to practice on.

Have talked myself out of using Dremel tool for most operations, I'm afraid it will just melt the project. I did manage to use my cordless one as a lathe on a recent screw up and managed to turn a part down to the correct size.


Mark,
That's usually what the results are with a Dremel on soft model type plastics. That's why I built my rheostat so I can slow it down and down till it stalls. Like you said, it's great for a lathe, multiple not so small holes.
Joel

Joel_W
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Posted: Tuesday, October 28, 2014 - 02:41 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking good Joel!

I have several of these in the stash as well as one completed and a stalled Monogram kit.

Cheers Rob.


Rob,

Thanks for your most positive comments.

For the price, it's really quite a nice kit. And with all the AM stuff, you can go nuts with it.
Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2014 - 04:29 AM UTC
Been home on vacation this week, so I've been able to get some work done on the P-38L each day. I've continued working on the Engine Boom Glycol radiators. The exhaust doors aren't actuated by a hydraulic piston, but rather a tie rod assembly. I haven't been able to find out how they're controlled from the cockpit.



I painted the interior of the assembly interior Green, made two mounting brackets out of .040 sheet, and cut a piece of piano wire for the rod.





Next order of business is the intakes for the radiator ducts. Here's what the stock part looks like dry fitted.



The duck intake should have a small gap between it and the boom surface, which the stock part really doesn't have. So I carefully filed it to create one.



As you can see from the pictures, all the parts need reshaping including the front engine cover that includes the lower radiators. And I still have another engine boom to go.

Joel





BlackWidow
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Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2014 - 08:03 AM UTC

Quoted Text

.... so I've been able to get some work done on the P-38L each day ....


That's the right way to do it, Joel! And that's how I get my kits done. 2 days without plastic in my hands and I go insane ....
Really nice extra work on your Lightning Maybe I take your photos as a sample for my next P-38 ....

Torsten
Joel_W
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Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2014 - 08:17 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

.... so I've been able to get some work done on the P-38L each day ....


That's the right way to do it, Joel! And that's how I get my kits done. 2 days without plastic in my hands and I go insane ....
Really nice extra work on your Lightning Maybe I take your photos as a sample for my next P-38 ....

Torsten


Torsten,
Thanks for checking my build. Glad you like what I've accomplished so far, which isn't very much.

Even though I'm semi retired: 4 days/32 hours, I still work a wacky work week, and I can't model some days. So I know what you mean about withdrawals.

Joel
Dragon164
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Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2014 - 04:45 PM UTC
Joel,
A quick look through Squadrons walk around and two captions say the doors were hydraulically operated.

Cheers Rob.
berndm
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Posted: Thursday, October 30, 2014 - 09:19 PM UTC
Nice work on the radiators Joel, good luck with the intakes
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, October 31, 2014 - 02:29 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Joel,
A quick look through Squadrons walk around and two captions say the doors were hydraulically operated.

Cheers Rob.


Rob,
Thanks for that info. I guess that the tie rods are for the initial adjustment of the doors, and the hydraulics do the actual moving. Just not sure where they are, but for this build it's not necessary.
Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Friday, October 31, 2014 - 02:31 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Nice work on the radiators Joel, good luck with the intakes


Bernd,
Thanks. The radiator intakes are slowly taking shape.

Joel
berndm
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Posted: Saturday, November 01, 2014 - 08:17 AM UTC
The P-38 is one of my favorite prob - driven aircrafts.
Your build is highly inspirational, it seems, that the Academy
Lightning needs some more work, as i thought.

BTW:Nearly all WW II props are favorites, that make the decision so hard what comes next

Cheers
Bernd
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, November 01, 2014 - 08:35 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The P-38 is one of my favorite prob - driven aircrafts.
Your build is highly inspirational, it seems, that the Academy
Lightning needs some more work, as i thought.

BTW:Nearly all WW II props are favorites, that make the decision so hard what comes next

Cheers
Bernd


Bernd,
Thanks so much for your more then kind words.

The Academy kit, has its short comings as the overall fit falls somewhat short. the worst is the wheel wells, they're not even close as the 3 individual pieces eaach seemed to be warped. I got them close, but not close enough. Still, I'm pretty sure I won that battle as both engine pods are now glued up. and ready for various fillers, sanding, and finally polishing.

I've been developing a fondness for for jets, but Props are by far my favorite of the two species. I do have to decide what my next build is going to be during the current build, as I do the needed research, plan out what details to add or work on, then order the kit if need be, including paints, and AM parts, so that I have everything ready to go. Well, that's my plan, but usually it doesn't work out that perfectly.
Joel
berndm
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Posted: Saturday, November 01, 2014 - 09:21 AM UTC
The Academy P-38 was done by me years ago,it was not my best effort.The overall fit was not so good (i thought it was me)
As i said at the start of your build, take some care to get the windscreen fit correctly, this has spoiled my build on rhe last steps.
Have this kit and a early Lightning in my stash as well, time to do it right.

I am very impressed, to see a modeller get a project from start to the finish in "one take".That did not work for me i am totally volatile on my hobby and have a lot of stuff on the run (more or less)My priorities changing almost weekly.
Bernd


Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, November 01, 2014 - 09:48 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The Academy P-38 was done by me years ago,it was not my best effort.The overall fit was not so good (i thought it was me)
As i said at the start of your build, take some care to get the windscreen fit correctly, this has spoiled my build on rhe last steps.
Have this kit and a early Lightning in my stash as well, time to do it right.

I am very impressed, to see a modeller get a project from start to the finish in "one take".That did not work for me i am totally volatile on my hobby and have a lot of stuff on the run (more or less)My priorities changing almost weekly.
Bernd




Bernd,
I've been avoiding even test fitting the windscreen, but I should test fit all the glass and see just what I'm up against.

I've always been one model at a time type of guy. Just can't concentrate on more then one build at a time. Even going back and forth every few weeks just never worked for me. I just concentrate on the build at hand, and do my best. Believe me, they don't all turn out perfectly or even get completed. Those that beat me into the submission, most often end up in the town landfill. Sad but true.
Joel
berndm
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Posted: Saturday, November 01, 2014 - 10:05 AM UTC
Joel, your current one will be a winner (again)!

My modelling attitudes are quite chaotic, but sometimes, somewhat gets finished.I must be in the mood for something.
Posting and reading in modelling forums made it even more "hefty
Oh well

Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 07:46 PM UTC
Well it's time for another update as I've made a little more progress on the P-38L.

Each engine boom was sanded with #320 Emery Cloth, followed by #600 Emery Cloth, and then just a #4,000 Micro Mesh pad for the 1st stage of polishing. I repeated this process as well on each of the 4 Glycol intakes. The rest of the polishing steps will take place when the entire P-38 is ready for priming.

Both engine booms were dry fitted to the fuselage/wing assembly, unfortunately, the fit was less then stellar. I filed, sanded, and polished trying to get a tighter fit, but the Booms were just slightly wider then the mounting area on the wings. I really couldn't pull them together as the wheel well assemblies prevented that option. When the glue has set for 24 hrs I sanded to reduce the various plastic steps. I then applied Squadron Green stuff thinned with Lacquer thinner, so it was easier to apply and smooth out along any joint that needed attention. Unfortunately, most did require some.

Next came the front section of the cockpit and the gun bay. Before gluing on the nose, I added 5/8 oz of weight, so hopefully it won't be a tail setter. Same fit issues. Sanding for a better profile shape, then Green stuff. Let dry for a few days, then sand to shape using #320 Emery Cloth, followed by #600.













In front of the engine turbos are two air intake scoops that were drilled out for a more scale look.



Also on the side of each engine cowling are two air intakes. Both needed to be drilled out, and the smaller one looked much to small, so I replaced one. The effect is what I was looking for, so I'll do that replacement for the other set as well.



Next is sealing all the Green stuff with Primer Surfacer 1,000. Any imperfections in the Green Stuff will be filled with a little Gorilla CA glue, sanded, polished, and then reprimed. Then it's a complete polishing and priming. Then lightly polishing the primer, and I'm ready to start my Alcad 11 adventure.

Joel
BlackWidow
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Posted: Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 10:11 PM UTC

Quoted Text

.... I added 5/8 oz of weight ....

How much is that in grams?
Nice progress on your Lightning, Joel! Yes, there is a lot of filling and sanding to do but in the end it's worth it when you look at the finished model. Btw, there is also some space for weight behind the spinners, the parts of the oil coolers. I put some small lead balls there. But this tip comes too late for you now. Hope too, the weight is enough.
Nice rack you have there!

Torsten
Joel_W
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Posted: Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 10:51 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

.... I added 5/8 oz of weight ....

How much is that in grams?
Nice progress on your Lightning, Joel! Yes, there is a lot of filling and sanding to do but in the end it's worth it when you look at the finished model. Btw, there is also some space for weight behind the spinners, the parts of the oil coolers. I put some small lead balls there. But this tip comes too late for you now. Hope too, the weight is enough.
Nice rack you have there!

Torsten


Torsten,
It's a little less then 20 grams. The instructions recommend 20 grams, but I couldn't really fit any more weight. Didn't think of the engine cowlings in time either. but your suggestion of the spinners just holding each a little weight should do the trick.

A lot of work is putting it mildly, but it's turning out better then I thought at this stage of the build.

The rack is from JH models that I got from UMM thanks to Brian.

Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 - 02:15 AM UTC
Finished the final sanding and polishing. All that's left to do before priming is to glue on the windscreen and rear cockpit glass.

Rather then spend considerable time cutting masks from Tamiya tape, I had ordered a Eduard's Masking set. I was really surprised at the fit. It was perfect. I only had to patch one side of one panel from my screw up.

The windscreen fit was pretty good, but not perfect. Some light sanding of both the glass and the fuselage by the step, and the fit was solid. There is still a gap dead center where the windscreen fits over what I'm assuming is extra armor plating. I filled it with a few coats of Vallejo White Acrylic putty. No sanding required. The rear cockpit glass just wouldn't seat down flush at the back end, so more light sanding was needed. Didn't take much, and I managed a snug fit.

Contrary to popular opinion, I don't use white glue, CA glue, or epoxy to glue on the glass. I very carefully use Tamiya Extra Thin. It doesn't fog the glass, and just a touch and the glue from capillary action fills the voids. a little 600 emery cloth followed by a 4,000 micro mesh pad, and I'm ready to mask the cockpit.

I've been using Tamiya Gray Surface Primer, but have recently tried Mr. Surfacer Primer 1,000 thinned 1:1 with Tamiya yellow cap Lacquer Thinner. I find it goes on smoother, and I'm able to get a shiny final coat without flooding the primer coat on. It dries to the touch in just a few min. Still, I give it a full day to cure before I look for errors, issues, and plan old screw ups. And I had my share.

For pin holes, putty that didn't seal or blend correctly, I hand brush and or dab on Tamiya Gray Primer full strength. A min of 24 hrs drying time, then I sand with 600 emery cloth and polish with 4,000 then 6,000 micro mesh pads. I carefully clean the areas with a damp Qtip with Iso Alcohol, and re-prime again.

Took two more priming sessions to get it as good as I'm going to get it. Keep in mind that I'm going to be doing a NMF so the surface has to be as smooth as possible. Next step is to polish the surface with a new Micro Mesh towel that came with my car for the windshield, but I've never used it for that purpose. Then comes the Alcad Gloss Black undercoat.

Joel













md72
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Posted: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 - 03:22 AM UTC
Looks great!. Might even try a NMF again, after I get back to a real modeling desk....

FWIW, are the wheels solid or hollow? A few years back I tried putting plumber's lead into the hollow halves of a B-26 nose gear to try and get a little extra weight into the front of the plane. I also had great luck adding just a little more weight by drilling an .032 hole into the front wheel well then cramming a bit of .03 solder into the nose.
Mcleod
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Posted: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 - 03:30 AM UTC
Hi Joel.
I must say you certainly make the Academy look like a fine kit, in a world where I thought there was no good P-38 kits. Well done!!

If anyone can do it, it will be someone with your talent! Looking forward to more.
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 - 04:08 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks great!. Might even try a NMF again, after I get back to a real modeling desk....

FWIW, are the wheels solid or hollow? A few years back I tried putting plumber's lead into the hollow halves of a B-26 nose gear to try and get a little extra weight into the front of the plane. I also had great luck adding just a little more weight by drilling an .032 hole into the front wheel well then cramming a bit of .03 solder into the nose.


Mark,
Thanks for stopping by and liking what I've gotten done to date.

The kit wheels are hollow, but I'm going with a the Quickboost resin wheels. They're a million times better then the ones that come in the kit. Bernd said that I can squeeze some extra weight in the spinners if need be. I'm praying it doesn't come to that, but at least I've got a Plan B.
Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 - 04:10 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Joel.
I must say you certainly make the Academy look like a fine kit, in a world where I thought there was no good P-38 kits. Well done!!

If anyone can do it, it will be someone with your talent! Looking forward to more.


Ben,
Thanks for the vote of confidence. The kit really isn't that bad, it's just a little rough around the edges.
Joel
md72
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Posted: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 - 04:27 AM UTC
Well, that's a little luck. The resin wheel should be heavier than the plastic wheel. Could make up the difference right there.
Joel_W
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Posted: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 - 06:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Well, that's a little luck. The resin wheel should be heavier than the plastic wheel. Could make up the difference right there.


Mark,
Never thought of that. So now I have a Plan C.
Joel
berndm
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Posted: Wednesday, November 12, 2014 - 12:05 PM UTC
Hi Joel, i missed a lot of progress, your Lightning looks fine !
really great work, i am using Eduards masking sets too, they
are worth the money.
Did i said you can put extra weight in the spinners ? good luck with the stand anyway.

Best
Bernd
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