Gabriel,
Looking good. I really like that tail mod. It's something that I've never really seen before.
Joel
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1/48 B17G Chow Hound
Joel_W
Associate Editor
Joined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Friday, April 15, 2016 - 06:47 PM UTC
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Friday, April 15, 2016 - 07:01 PM UTC
Thanks, Joel. Is not a "mod", just dealing with the assembly issues.
More pics soon, the model is ready for priming, but the time is scarce.
Thanks for following, posting and constructive criticism.
Cheers!
Gabriel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 01, 2016 - 03:08 AM UTC
*** UPDATE ***
My good friends, I hardly survived an airbrush riot! Both my oldest two airbrushes decided to die a day apart of each other - and that supposed to be the day I start priming the B17. Anyhow, while one AB is completely out of service, the other was resuscitated with a spare needle, 0.05 thinner than the original. Surprisingly enough, it works like a charm.
The whole aircraft was primed with a semi-gloss gray enamel from Testors:
I decided to start the painting with the under-side and there is the first coat of Testors, mixed from gloss white and matte black. Because the amount of black is rather small, the finishing is glossy: exactly what I sought after for decal application.
I had to lightly sand some areas because some minuscule dust particles were trapped under the coating (probably from the dried paint hanging around - I don't have an extractor and the painting sessions are long at this model size). Further on, I'm going to apply another light coat, followed by under-shadowing and finally by one more (thin) spray, decals, washes and weathering.
Thank you for stopping by,
Cheers!
Gabriel
My good friends, I hardly survived an airbrush riot! Both my oldest two airbrushes decided to die a day apart of each other - and that supposed to be the day I start priming the B17. Anyhow, while one AB is completely out of service, the other was resuscitated with a spare needle, 0.05 thinner than the original. Surprisingly enough, it works like a charm.
The whole aircraft was primed with a semi-gloss gray enamel from Testors:
I decided to start the painting with the under-side and there is the first coat of Testors, mixed from gloss white and matte black. Because the amount of black is rather small, the finishing is glossy: exactly what I sought after for decal application.
I had to lightly sand some areas because some minuscule dust particles were trapped under the coating (probably from the dried paint hanging around - I don't have an extractor and the painting sessions are long at this model size). Further on, I'm going to apply another light coat, followed by under-shadowing and finally by one more (thin) spray, decals, washes and weathering.
Thank you for stopping by,
Cheers!
Gabriel
castlegaiden
Joined: August 22, 2014
KitMaker: 23 posts
AeroScale: 3 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 01, 2016 - 05:50 PM UTC
Excellent work on the Flying Fortress!!
For everyone interested in modelling the B-17, I suggest checking out RESIN2detail.com - they have a huge line of B-17 aftermarket stuff - seats, wing intakes, exhausts, conversions, etc.
Cheers
For everyone interested in modelling the B-17, I suggest checking out RESIN2detail.com - they have a huge line of B-17 aftermarket stuff - seats, wing intakes, exhausts, conversions, etc.
Cheers
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 01, 2016 - 06:06 PM UTC
Thanks, Brian.
Indeed, the oldish Monogram will benefit greatly from improvements in some areas (engine cowlings, MGs, glazed surfaces and interior), as Brian's Luscious Lady demonstrates.
Thank you for head-up.
Gabriel
Indeed, the oldish Monogram will benefit greatly from improvements in some areas (engine cowlings, MGs, glazed surfaces and interior), as Brian's Luscious Lady demonstrates.
Thank you for head-up.
Gabriel
Redhand
#522
Joined: January 20, 2013
KitMaker: 1,460 posts
AeroScale: 1,443 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 01, 2016 - 06:32 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks, Brian.
Indeed, the oldish Monogram will benefit greatly from improvements in some areas (engine cowlings, MGs, glazed surfaces and interior), as Brian's Luscious Lady demonstrates.
Thank you for head-up.
Gabriel
It's getting there Gabriel! I envy your progress. And boy do I know that "My airbrush flamed out on me, now what!?" feeling in the middle of a major task.
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 01, 2016 - 07:00 PM UTC
Indeed, Brian, it could be maddening!
I thought I am "safe" with a G22 which never gave me a problem over three years of use and a G23 for details / backup. The problem with G22 is that the needle is so worn that tapered itself, now protruding some 0.5mm more than normal. Even if I pull the trigger all the way back, the amount of paint is so thin it dries in the air. The G23's trigger just locked down in air release position. I greased it and it worked some two minutes, then locked again. While trying to switch the innards from one airbrush to another, I over-tightened the needle cap and broke inside the body so now is a complete loss. Now I use a Frankenstein G22/23 with the body from 22, the needle from 23. I also adopted the cut thru tail from 23 because has a stop screw but... (surprise!) it works only partially because the needle chuck piece is a dash shorter in G22!
Anyhow, I ordered 3 (three!) backups. A cheapie set from Airbrush Depot (0.2 and 0.35) and a Iwata Neo which intend to make the workhorse. Together with them, couple of good quality (?) needles to redeem my loyal 22! They're due to arrive on 9th of the month (fingers crossed).
Phew!
Cheers!
Gabriel
I thought I am "safe" with a G22 which never gave me a problem over three years of use and a G23 for details / backup. The problem with G22 is that the needle is so worn that tapered itself, now protruding some 0.5mm more than normal. Even if I pull the trigger all the way back, the amount of paint is so thin it dries in the air. The G23's trigger just locked down in air release position. I greased it and it worked some two minutes, then locked again. While trying to switch the innards from one airbrush to another, I over-tightened the needle cap and broke inside the body so now is a complete loss. Now I use a Frankenstein G22/23 with the body from 22, the needle from 23. I also adopted the cut thru tail from 23 because has a stop screw but... (surprise!) it works only partially because the needle chuck piece is a dash shorter in G22!
Anyhow, I ordered 3 (three!) backups. A cheapie set from Airbrush Depot (0.2 and 0.35) and a Iwata Neo which intend to make the workhorse. Together with them, couple of good quality (?) needles to redeem my loyal 22! They're due to arrive on 9th of the month (fingers crossed).
Phew!
Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Monday, May 02, 2016 - 12:21 AM UTC
Gabriel
The priming does indeed look good. I really do like your method of shall I call it pre-decal glossing, as you applied it with the undersides Nuetral Gray color coat. Talk about a time saver.
As for your air brushes crapping out on you, I'll join that club. After I started to have issues with my Paasche H system, I bought a Iwata Eclipse but just didn't care for the duel action, so I sold it. I then bought two Iwata Revolutions: The M1 & M2 single action ABs. Best move I ever made. I also treated myself to a Iwata air compressor with a duel gun setup. And it's so quiet I can now paint when everyone is sleeping.
Joel
The priming does indeed look good. I really do like your method of shall I call it pre-decal glossing, as you applied it with the undersides Nuetral Gray color coat. Talk about a time saver.
As for your air brushes crapping out on you, I'll join that club. After I started to have issues with my Paasche H system, I bought a Iwata Eclipse but just didn't care for the duel action, so I sold it. I then bought two Iwata Revolutions: The M1 & M2 single action ABs. Best move I ever made. I also treated myself to a Iwata air compressor with a duel gun setup. And it's so quiet I can now paint when everyone is sleeping.
Joel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Monday, May 02, 2016 - 12:48 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Gabriel
The priming does indeed look good. I really do like your method of shall I call it pre-decal glossing, as you applied it with the undersides Nuetral Gray color coat. Talk about a time saver.
As for your air brushes crapping out on you, I'll join that club. After I started to have issues with my Paasche H system, I bought a Iwata Eclipse but just didn't care for the duel action, so I sold it. I then bought two Iwata Revolutions: The M1 & M2 single action ABs. Best move I ever made. I also treated myself to a Iwata air compressor with a duel gun setup. And it's so quiet I can now paint when everyone is sleeping.
Joel
Thanks, Joel. Yes, saving time was on my mind and generally simplifiyng the overall job. Smooth how it is, sands very good.
As for AB, I felt since a while I need to step up, bud I couldn't take a decision. I kept a longing eye on Iwatas and Badgers; I even considered a Steenbeck. I decided for Iwata because Steinbeck is too expensive and Badger has those funny fittings. I know Neo is not made in Japan, but for how long the manufacturer backs up with the name and a 5 year warranty, I hope for the best.
Regarding the compressor, you're certainly right. I have a quiet one cylinder tankless air-on-demand. The air flow is good and steady, but the thing goes smoking hot and I have to take a break after 20 minutes run. Another consequence is that the air comes warm enough to condens on the hose and occasionally I had water splotches.
Hopefully I will find a good upgrade soon.
Cheers!
Gabriel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 04, 2016 - 12:53 AM UTC
*** UPDATE ***
I found enough time to shoot some paint:
No, it's not a Luftwaffe B17G on Mediterranean theater. I sprayed white as base for the following red. Now which shade of red is another can of worms...
And I am half-way in pre-shading the aircraft. That much I could do so far given the time at my disposal:
Thank you for stopping by,
Cheers!
Gabriel
I found enough time to shoot some paint:
No, it's not a Luftwaffe B17G on Mediterranean theater. I sprayed white as base for the following red. Now which shade of red is another can of worms...
And I am half-way in pre-shading the aircraft. That much I could do so far given the time at my disposal:
Thank you for stopping by,
Cheers!
Gabriel
Joel_W
Associate EditorJoined: December 04, 2010
KitMaker: 11,666 posts
AeroScale: 7,410 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 04, 2016 - 05:06 AM UTC
Gabriel,
Primer and pre-shading looks real good.
Joel
Primer and pre-shading looks real good.
Joel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 04, 2016 - 05:35 AM UTC
Thank you very much, Joel.
I'm still waiting for my airbrushes...
And I think I made my mind for a new compressor, thanks to you. I found a twin cylinder 3.5 liter tank for a little under USD 200. Do you think is worth it?
Cheers!
Gabriel
I'm still waiting for my airbrushes...
And I think I made my mind for a new compressor, thanks to you. I found a twin cylinder 3.5 liter tank for a little under USD 200. Do you think is worth it?
Cheers!
Gabriel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 04, 2016 - 07:54 PM UTC
*** UPDATE ***
Small update:
I managed to pre-shade the entire aircraft:
Also first coat of red went on (under-surfaces only):
A light sanding is needed, then the final coat. Hopefully the shadowing will remain visible (?)
Thank you for visiting,
Cheers!
Gabriel
Small update:
I managed to pre-shade the entire aircraft:
Also first coat of red went on (under-surfaces only):
A light sanding is needed, then the final coat. Hopefully the shadowing will remain visible (?)
Thank you for visiting,
Cheers!
Gabriel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2016 - 07:47 AM UTC
Hi, guys!
I need your help again, this time regarding the antennae wires. The radio room has two "horns", one for each side of the fuselage, alright. The drawing shows that on the starboard the antenna goes from the tail to "horn". For the port side, the antenna wire is shown stretched from the "horn" to the middle of the wing. I searched as many pictures I could find, but I couldn't figure it out. To make things worse, Revell's completed replica on the box has no antenna wires. On their 1/72 Memphis Belle box art replica, both antennas are stretching from horns to tail. I've seen also a few drawings showing yet another configuration: the wire is stretched from tail to another antenna post, just aft to the top rear facing gunner.
Note: on the left wing there is a "hub cap" which it is not replicated on the right wing. Should be that one antenna connection?
Thank you,
Gabriel
I need your help again, this time regarding the antennae wires. The radio room has two "horns", one for each side of the fuselage, alright. The drawing shows that on the starboard the antenna goes from the tail to "horn". For the port side, the antenna wire is shown stretched from the "horn" to the middle of the wing. I searched as many pictures I could find, but I couldn't figure it out. To make things worse, Revell's completed replica on the box has no antenna wires. On their 1/72 Memphis Belle box art replica, both antennas are stretching from horns to tail. I've seen also a few drawings showing yet another configuration: the wire is stretched from tail to another antenna post, just aft to the top rear facing gunner.
Note: on the left wing there is a "hub cap" which it is not replicated on the right wing. Should be that one antenna connection?
Thank you,
Gabriel
GazzaS
#424
Joined: April 23, 2015
KitMaker: 4,648 posts
AeroScale: 1,938 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2016 - 11:27 AM UTC
Quoted Text
A light sanding is needed, then the final coat. Hopefully the shadowing will remain visible (?)
Thank you for visiting,
Cheers!
Gabriel
Hi Gabriel,
You're doing some great work. To keep your undershading visible, all you have to do is avoid spraying paint over the shaded area. Easier said than done...but I have faith in you!
Gaz
KPHB17FE
Joined: January 12, 2015
KitMaker: 292 posts
AeroScale: 292 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2016 - 02:37 PM UTC
Both of those antennas attached to the tail. From the factory, the one on the left (Liaison radio) originally was as you have described but it was moved. It attached to the tail and then to what you referred to as a "horn". That is actually an insulator. On the right side, the command antenna was attached to the tail and then to a tab forward of the radio room window. There was then a separate lead running to the horn/insulator. The antennas are also insulated from their attachment points. This antenna also had a standoff attaching it to the VHF antenna. I have the command antenna in red and the liaison in blue in these photos. HTH
KPHB17FE
Joined: January 12, 2015
KitMaker: 292 posts
AeroScale: 292 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2016 - 02:57 PM UTC
Here is a photo of the command antenna attach point and insulator with the paint removed. You can see that the insulator is a ceramic type of material and was originally unpainted.
Here is the liaison insulator/attachment:
Here is the liaison insulator/attachment:
Redhand
#522
Joined: January 20, 2013
KitMaker: 1,460 posts
AeroScale: 1,443 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2016 - 07:07 PM UTC
GREAT reference pics Karl.
Redhand
#522
Joined: January 20, 2013
KitMaker: 1,460 posts
AeroScale: 1,443 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2016 - 08:30 PM UTC
BTW I would love to know what you guys (and gals) use as insulators and springs in 1/48.
KPHB17FE
Joined: January 12, 2015
KitMaker: 292 posts
AeroScale: 292 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2016 - 09:58 PM UTC
For springs, you are on your own 
, but for insulators, a bit of gloss white paint looks the part... more or less!
, but for insulators, a bit of gloss white paint looks the part... more or less!Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2016 - 11:08 PM UTC
Quoted Text
You're doing some great work. To keep your undershading visible, all you have to do is avoid spraying paint over the shaded area. Easier said than done...but I have faith in you!
Gaz
Thank you, Gaz. I have little experience with the panel shading (my (in)glorious aircraft modeling career resumes to a Revell 1/72 Horten - the only of my models which ever-ever ended in the garbage bin - and a LaGG on which I've got a good enough under-side painting / weathering and a not-so-proud-of upper surface). I'm somewhat grateful for the size of this build because offers me lot of practicing space.
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2016 - 11:11 PM UTC
@ Karl: Sir, I'm in complete amazement again facing your knowledge. Exceptionally valuable references; I cannot thank you enough for your generous help.
Much indebted,
Gabriel
Much indebted,
Gabriel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 05, 2016 - 11:18 PM UTC
@ Brian: I've sen applied more than once the method described by Karl for replicating insulators. For the springs, the only solution I can think of is spiraling tiny-tiny wire at the ends of antenna wire, perhaps after stretching the wire (?) I'll give it a try. I intend the use for antenna wire fishing line and for "springs" some micro copper wire (the one you can scavenge from audio / USB cables).
Cheers!
Gabriel
Cheers!
Gabriel
Szmann
Joined: September 02, 2014
KitMaker: 1,977 posts
AeroScale: 295 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 08, 2016 - 01:55 AM UTC
*** UPDATE ***
I've got a little more airbrushing time, and there is the result. I've altered a little the hue of the red - I'm not sure how much you can see from the pictures because of the glare.
Wing tips:
Tail:
Comparing this two pictures I could see how tricky the red can be: in the first one it has a carmine tinge, while in the second seems pinkish. Under naked eye is rather a toned-down Coca-Cola red...
The under-side painted. I've got a nice semi-gloss but also a not so nice over-spray in a few places...
Detail view:
Thank you for visiting and posting.
Cheers!
Gabriel
I've got a little more airbrushing time, and there is the result. I've altered a little the hue of the red - I'm not sure how much you can see from the pictures because of the glare.
Wing tips:
Tail:
Comparing this two pictures I could see how tricky the red can be: in the first one it has a carmine tinge, while in the second seems pinkish. Under naked eye is rather a toned-down Coca-Cola red...
The under-side painted. I've got a nice semi-gloss but also a not so nice over-spray in a few places...
Detail view:
Thank you for visiting and posting.
Cheers!
Gabriel
Redhand
#522
Joined: January 20, 2013
KitMaker: 1,460 posts
AeroScale: 1,443 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 08, 2016 - 06:00 AM UTC
Quoted Text
For springs, you are on your own
I think I may try some tiny wire twisted around the "antenna strand." That's for much later. Your aerial diagrams from the tail are great!
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