Welcome to the first ever Aeroscale "early bird - WWI aviation" Contest.
This contest is open to all members of Aeroscale.co.uk
The purpose of this contest is to use your knowledge to put together a well built model kit representing an aircraft from the 1914-1918 air war.
-The RULES -
The Aircraft Model “Must”:
- a) be static display kit manufactured by Eduard or Gavia exclusively.
- b) use Eduard or Gavia decals for its stenciling, serials, personal, unit or national markings.
The Aircraft Model “Can”
-a) be built from any Eduard or Gavia kit of any aircraft manufactured between 1914-1918.
-b) include dioramas bases or display stands, representations of humans - such as aviators, mechanics or bystanders originally manufactured by Eduard.
- c) have Eduard or Gavia manufactured photoetch.
- d) employ any paint or colouring system.
The Aircraft Model “Can Not”
- a) be of wrecked or damaged aircraft.
- b) be of any other kit manufacture.
- c) have any parts included from other manufactures, This includes aftermarket PE and decals
The Aircraft Model May:
- a) be made from any appropriate materials. That is Eduard or Gavia kits employing plastic, resin, white metal, wood and etc. Multimedia.
- b) be “weathered” but weathering must not obscure details of interest to judges.
- c) have scratchbuilt details such as rigging, cameras, ammunition boxes, barrels, saw horses or trestles.
The ENTRIES:
Judges will;
- a) use images posted (under this thread) by entrants to choose prize winner - up to 6 photos maximum.
These images ;
- a) must show overall details, images must not be modified or altered.
- b) cannot be photos of actual aircraft & /or modified or altered photos
This is prohibited & shall disqualify the entrant.
- c) prove your statements about your build. Such as "this item is scratchbuilt..."
Entries must;
-a) also include an entry statement with entrant's name, model name, scale, & a brief history of the model’s subject (100 word max., written by entrant.)
Entry statement is the info you usually fill out at model contests. It says basically. what scale, what correct designation is used... such as, Fokker Dr. I Triplane, Sopwith Camel F.I and etc. what materials were used and how.
Only one entry per member.
Contest closes midnight Nov. 30, 2006
The winner will be announced Dec.5, 2006
First prize includes;
1. The Eduard faux “Blue Max” from their Royal series kit of the Fokker D.VII .
2. An Eduard scale WWI kit donated by Eduard of the Czech Republic.
These rules are exclusive property of Aeroscale.co.uk and may not be used elsewhere without expressed permission.
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Aeroscale Early Bird Contest 2006
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2006 - 08:19 AM UTC
alpha_tango
Joined: September 07, 2005
KitMaker: 5,609 posts
AeroScale: 5,231 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2006 - 01:31 PM UTC
Hi Stephen
Thanks for setting up the contest!
I have one question. You wrote in the other thread that the model must be build for this contest, read it has to be untouched until now = the model is not yet started . Is that still the case ?
I find the rules regarding the decals a bit strict, but I will do as you wish. My pick is then the Fokker D.VII (OAW) in the markings of Franz Büchner (for the Pour le Merite campaign it has to be a PM recipient, right :-) :-) :-) )
While it lowers my chances for the competition it fits my abilities (regarding rigging ...) I'll post a question regarding the subject in the reference thread.
blue skies
Steffen
Thanks for setting up the contest!
I have one question. You wrote in the other thread that the model must be build for this contest, read it has to be untouched until now = the model is not yet started . Is that still the case ?
I find the rules regarding the decals a bit strict, but I will do as you wish. My pick is then the Fokker D.VII (OAW) in the markings of Franz Büchner (for the Pour le Merite campaign it has to be a PM recipient, right :-) :-) :-) )
While it lowers my chances for the competition it fits my abilities (regarding rigging ...) I'll post a question regarding the subject in the reference thread.
blue skies
Steffen
BradCancian
Joined: August 30, 2006
KitMaker: 285 posts
AeroScale: 281 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2006 - 05:46 PM UTC
Hello Stephen,
Some quick questions on the rules.
Firstly, regarding "Must Not" point c:
c) "(Must not) have any parts included from other manufactures, This includes aftermarket PE and decals"
Does this extend to lozenge? Eduard lozenge is not real flash at the best of times and if the rules do not allow after market lozenge I'm afraid I'll not be participating as I am not going to waste a nice kit by putting bad lozenge on it. Also, can the marking scheme be NOT one of the kit supplied schemes IF the preferred scheme can be pieced together from the kit decals (or better yet from other Eduard decals? To me this would still be in line with "Must" rule b, ie "(Must) use Eduard or Gavia decals for its stenciling, serials, personal, unit or national markings").
Secondly, I notice there are no dates stated in the rules for the time frame in which the model was started although there was talk of time restriction in the previous thread. Is there a restriction on when the model was started or can I compete using a model I started a while ago?
Thirdly, how much scratch building is allowed? For example, can I add fuel tanks made from scrap plastic and wiring added from fuse wire or is this outside of the scope of the contest?
Sorry for so many questions!
Regards,
Brad Cancian
Some quick questions on the rules.
Firstly, regarding "Must Not" point c:
c) "(Must not) have any parts included from other manufactures, This includes aftermarket PE and decals"
Does this extend to lozenge? Eduard lozenge is not real flash at the best of times and if the rules do not allow after market lozenge I'm afraid I'll not be participating as I am not going to waste a nice kit by putting bad lozenge on it. Also, can the marking scheme be NOT one of the kit supplied schemes IF the preferred scheme can be pieced together from the kit decals (or better yet from other Eduard decals? To me this would still be in line with "Must" rule b, ie "(Must) use Eduard or Gavia decals for its stenciling, serials, personal, unit or national markings").
Secondly, I notice there are no dates stated in the rules for the time frame in which the model was started although there was talk of time restriction in the previous thread. Is there a restriction on when the model was started or can I compete using a model I started a while ago?
Thirdly, how much scratch building is allowed? For example, can I add fuel tanks made from scrap plastic and wiring added from fuse wire or is this outside of the scope of the contest?
Sorry for so many questions!
Regards,
Brad Cancian
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2006 - 10:00 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Stephen
Thanks for setting up the contest! I have one question. You wrote in the other thread that the model must be build for this contest, read it has to be untouched until now = the model is not yet started . Is that still the case ?
I find the rules regarding the decals a bit strict, but I will do as you wish. My pick is then the Fokker D.VII (OAW) in the markings of Franz Büchner (for the Pour le Merite campaign it has to be a PM recipient, right :-) :-) :-) )
While it lowers my chances for the competition it fits my abilities (regarding rigging ...) I'll post a question regarding the subject in the reference thread.
blue skies
Steffen
Hey Steffen,
Yes please crack open the box and begin. This and the restrictions help keep the playing field level so everyone feels good about competeing.
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2006 - 10:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hello Stephen,
Some quick questions on the rules.
Firstly, regarding "Must Not" point c:
c) "(Must not) have any parts included from other manufactures, This includes aftermarket PE and decals"
Does this extend to lozenge? Eduard lozenge is not real flash at the best of times and if the rules do not allow after market lozenge I'm afraid I'll not be participating as I am not going to waste a nice kit by putting bad lozenge on it. Also, can the marking scheme be NOT one of the kit supplied schemes IF the preferred scheme can be pieced together from the kit decals (or better yet from other Eduard decals? To me this would still be in line with "Must" rule b, ie "(Must) use Eduard or Gavia decals for its stenciling, serials, personal, unit or national markings").
Secondly, I notice there are no dates stated in the rules for the time frame in which the model was started although there was talk of time restriction in the previous thread. Is there a restriction on when the model was started or can I compete using a model I started a while ago?
Thirdly, how much scratch building is allowed? For example, can I add fuel tanks made from scrap plastic and wiring added from fuse wire or is this outside of the scope of the contest?
Sorry for so many questions!
Regards,
Brad Cancian
Hey Brad,
1. No worries. Yes, even the lozenge. As much as I prefer Eagle Strike Lozenge (And I do!) I thought it important to keep it strickly an Eduard theme. This way everyone can compete. But! if you can paint it (the camouflage or the markings) its a free for all! The Germans did use two toned spray as well as lozenge and many schemes had over painted wings.
Also as long as you use Eduard decals you can put German crosses on a Sopwith Camel. You can put British Cockades on an Albatros D.III. Here it comes... The amount of markings you apply is up to you. If you don't agree with a colour scheme paint on what you think is right. As we have seen with the Profipack Sopwith 2F.1 their "B" scheme is quite fouled up in the serial number dept. For the contest I allowed for you to use kit decals from one Eduard kit on another Eduard kit.
Say the decals for your Profipack kit are wrong , damaged or not your taste. Then the rules allow for you use any set of Eduard decals. The modifications to the Eduard markings and painting are up to you.
If you want to do a scheme where you paint everything even the crosses or cockades its up to you. But the only decals to be used would be the Eduard...if you use decals.
2. The contest starts with the posting of the rules. Crack the kit open as soon as you can. You have til midnight Nov. 30, Rocky Mountain time.
3. The scratchbuilding is open ended as to the amount you want to do. But remember the limitation of the 6 images 100 words of description and the time constraints.
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 09, 2006 - 10:48 PM UTC
Just a reminder folks The aim is to put together a well built model. Historical accuaracy is important BUT, the finish of the kit it most important.
Are the wings parallel? Is the fuselage square with the wings? Do the wood areas look like wood? Does the fabric look like fabric. Are the machine gun muzzles drilled open? If you remove the cowling for display is the plumbing represented? Basics , Basics , basics. With that in mind look for a thread called Modeling Spruce and Linen.
Are the wings parallel? Is the fuselage square with the wings? Do the wood areas look like wood? Does the fabric look like fabric. Are the machine gun muzzles drilled open? If you remove the cowling for display is the plumbing represented? Basics , Basics , basics. With that in mind look for a thread called Modeling Spruce and Linen.
BradCancian
Joined: August 30, 2006
KitMaker: 285 posts
AeroScale: 281 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 10, 2006 - 01:49 PM UTC
Quoted Text
As much as I prefer Eagle Strike Lozenge (And I do!) I thought it important to keep it strickly an Eduard theme. This way everyone can compete. But! if you can paint it (the camouflage or the markings) its a free for all!
Thanks for the reply Stephen :-)
'Fraid this rule will keep me out of the comp - I ain't gonna paint lozenge (yikes) and I'm not gonna buy an extra kit specifically for this comp (some of us are on a budget ya know!
)Have fun y'all!!
BC
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Monday, September 11, 2006 - 01:06 AM UTC
Greetings all; I have a message from Lars. "Hi Stephen
I do really like this way to bost up the interest on the forum. It´s get more spicy. Please more of this...
Now to the Question;
I understand it´s okay to scratchbuild part and peices from plasticard,In my entry eduards has not given us that transparent part in the middle of the top wing, It was celiodcovered on some machines.
Would it be wrong for you as a judge if I put in a piece of clear plastic(It will be more accurate)?
sincerly
Lars"
Hey Lars!
Since sheet plastic comes in solid or clear I see no problem. You might try clear food wrap as well. its thinner and won't haze or distort when you curve it.
Regards Stephen
I do really like this way to bost up the interest on the forum. It´s get more spicy. Please more of this...
Now to the Question;
I understand it´s okay to scratchbuild part and peices from plasticard,In my entry eduards has not given us that transparent part in the middle of the top wing, It was celiodcovered on some machines.
Would it be wrong for you as a judge if I put in a piece of clear plastic(It will be more accurate)?
sincerly
Lars"
Hey Lars!
Since sheet plastic comes in solid or clear I see no problem. You might try clear food wrap as well. its thinner and won't haze or distort when you curve it.
Regards Stephen
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 09:39 AM UTC
-------Comments about the philosophy of Judging--------
It should go without saying. “You have no friends when you are a judge.” One must put aside familiar relationships in order to be as impartial as possible.
Personal preferences for weathered or unweathered models and use or non use of a base or clear covers are just that, personal preferences. These concerns will not enter into initial deliberations. Later if it comes down to two well done models then the hair splitting begins. Essentially it comes down to the most realistic. I firmly believe that you should judge in areas you specialize in but not also compete. Its either one or the other, not both.
The emphasis is on the basics and that is where it belongs. While I have seen aircraft that did not comply with the painting directives or were even the wrong colour, I never saw one with a seam down the middle of it. So watch out if you are an entrant that tries to cover up poor workmanship with “Schmaltz.” (Flashy paint job or storyline, extra detail sets, fancy base etc.) Each entrant deserves a good critique . As a judge you are obligated to give help and encouragement when a constructive critique is asked for.
The guide to a well built aircraft model.
Basic Construction:
1. Is the alignment correct? Square, plumb, uniformed surfaces.
2. Do you see any glue joints? How clean are the joints?
3. Is all flash removed neatly? No flat spots on rounded surfaces.
4. Are all seams filled? Was there a seam on the original ?
5. Are all molding marks, sink marks, copyright marks and ejector pin marks removed?
6. Are clear windows or the model itself clear of all glue marks and smears?
7. Are wings and tail plumb and square to each other and the fuselage?
Details:
1. Refinement, thin edges, scale thickness for all exposed parts?
2. Prototypical representations of surfaces. Wood area look like wood, metal like metal, fabric that looks like fabric.
3. Nuts and bolts, are they well defined or do they just look like bumps.
Finish:
1. Does it accurately resemble the original? Flat semi-gloss or gloss. Factory fresh or war weary?
2. Is the lettering or markings straight or duplicating the original?
3. No decal silvering or carrier film evident.
4. Is it weathered realistically or does it detract from the over all appearance?
5. Are there brush marks? Uneven coverage, brush hairs in dried paint or the dreaded finger prints?
6. Are paint separation lines clean and even?
It should go without saying. “You have no friends when you are a judge.” One must put aside familiar relationships in order to be as impartial as possible.
Personal preferences for weathered or unweathered models and use or non use of a base or clear covers are just that, personal preferences. These concerns will not enter into initial deliberations. Later if it comes down to two well done models then the hair splitting begins. Essentially it comes down to the most realistic. I firmly believe that you should judge in areas you specialize in but not also compete. Its either one or the other, not both.
The emphasis is on the basics and that is where it belongs. While I have seen aircraft that did not comply with the painting directives or were even the wrong colour, I never saw one with a seam down the middle of it. So watch out if you are an entrant that tries to cover up poor workmanship with “Schmaltz.” (Flashy paint job or storyline, extra detail sets, fancy base etc.) Each entrant deserves a good critique . As a judge you are obligated to give help and encouragement when a constructive critique is asked for.
The guide to a well built aircraft model.
Basic Construction:
1. Is the alignment correct? Square, plumb, uniformed surfaces.
2. Do you see any glue joints? How clean are the joints?
3. Is all flash removed neatly? No flat spots on rounded surfaces.
4. Are all seams filled? Was there a seam on the original ?
5. Are all molding marks, sink marks, copyright marks and ejector pin marks removed?
6. Are clear windows or the model itself clear of all glue marks and smears?
7. Are wings and tail plumb and square to each other and the fuselage?
Details:
1. Refinement, thin edges, scale thickness for all exposed parts?
2. Prototypical representations of surfaces. Wood area look like wood, metal like metal, fabric that looks like fabric.
3. Nuts and bolts, are they well defined or do they just look like bumps.
Finish:
1. Does it accurately resemble the original? Flat semi-gloss or gloss. Factory fresh or war weary?
2. Is the lettering or markings straight or duplicating the original?
3. No decal silvering or carrier film evident.
4. Is it weathered realistically or does it detract from the over all appearance?
5. Are there brush marks? Uneven coverage, brush hairs in dried paint or the dreaded finger prints?
6. Are paint separation lines clean and even?
TedMamere
Joined: May 15, 2005
KitMaker: 5,653 posts
AeroScale: 4,347 posts
Posted: Saturday, September 16, 2006 - 11:57 AM UTC
Hi Stephen!
That's a very precise guide to begin with when entering a model competition!
So you know the word "Schmaltz" :-) In Germany there is a music called "Schmalzmusik" wich is a very popular. But Steffen Arndt (alpha_tango) can tell you more about it! I'm sure he loves this kind of musik!
As for "Schmaltz" in modelling, I must be honest and say I use it sometimes to hide imperfections
Jean-Luc
That's a very precise guide to begin with when entering a model competition!
So you know the word "Schmaltz" :-) In Germany there is a music called "Schmalzmusik" wich is a very popular. But Steffen Arndt (alpha_tango) can tell you more about it! I'm sure he loves this kind of musik!
As for "Schmaltz" in modelling, I must be honest and say I use it sometimes to hide imperfections
Jean-Luc
Grumpyoldman
_ADVISORJoined: October 17, 2003
KitMaker: 15,338 posts
AeroScale: 836 posts
Posted: Monday, September 18, 2006 - 06:00 AM UTC
Time for my fustration "dumb" grumpy question, since I really do owe my "one aircraft build for the year".
DUMB QUESTION---- Is it ok on a base, with a figure?
DUMB QUESTION---- Is it ok on a base, with a figure?
jRatz
Joined: March 06, 2004
KitMaker: 1,171 posts
AeroScale: 151 posts
Posted: Monday, September 18, 2006 - 07:20 AM UTC
Stephen,
OK, I happen to have the Eduard Profi-pack Sopwith Tripe open on my bench, but un-started, just clamoring for attention. I had planned to do it OOB, with the exception, maybe, of markings. I guess I could live with kit markings.
I don't see any procedural stuff -- open a thread here to show progress ? just wait till the end (ala MOM) & post something ? ... Just how does this contest run up till 30 Nov ? And do we need to formally enter or just show up with an entry ? (Frankly the Tripe is low on priority list).
I guess I have to ask, why the Eduard & Gavia focus ? It is a bit limiting, if a sub-goal is to build a WW1-era following ...
Thx,
John
OK, I happen to have the Eduard Profi-pack Sopwith Tripe open on my bench, but un-started, just clamoring for attention. I had planned to do it OOB, with the exception, maybe, of markings. I guess I could live with kit markings.
I don't see any procedural stuff -- open a thread here to show progress ? just wait till the end (ala MOM) & post something ? ... Just how does this contest run up till 30 Nov ? And do we need to formally enter or just show up with an entry ? (Frankly the Tripe is low on priority list).
I guess I have to ask, why the Eduard & Gavia focus ? It is a bit limiting, if a sub-goal is to build a WW1-era following ...
Thx,
John
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Monday, September 18, 2006 - 07:59 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Time for my fustration "dumb" grumpy question, since I really do owe my "one aircraft build for the year". DUMB QUESTION---- Is it ok on a base, with a figure?
Greetings Grumpy!
From the posted rules.
"The Aircraft Model “Can”
-a) be built from any Eduard or Gavia kit of any aircraft manufactured between 1914-1918.
-b) include dioramas bases or display stands, representations of humans - such as aviators, mechanics or bystanders originally manufactured by Eduard..."
No dumb questions here...those are the ones that don't get asked.
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Monday, September 18, 2006 - 08:17 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Stephen,
OK, I happen to have the Eduard Profi-pack Sopwith Tripe open on my bench, but un-started, just clamoring for attention. I had planned to do it OOB, with the exception, maybe, of markings. I guess I could live with kit markings.
I don't see any procedural stuff -- open a thread here to show progress ? just wait till the end (ala MOM) & post something ? ... Just how does this contest run up till 30 Nov ? And do we need to formally enter or just show up with an entry ? (Frankly the Tripe is low on priority list).
I guess I have to ask, why the Eduard & Gavia focus ? It is a bit limiting, if a sub-goal is to build a WW1-era following ... Thx, John
Hey John,
No worries. Remember you can use any Eduard / Gavia WWI aviation kit markings on your Eduard / Gavia WWI aviation kit . There were several issues of the Sopwith Triplane. Just don't forget to explain your build when you post the images.
As far as procedures, its like a contest. Plop down your build here whenever you get it finished but before November 30, 2006. All Aeroscale members are welcome. If your not a member, you can not post to the forums anyway. Six images maximum. 100 words maximum.
The contest was first announced as one that would include an award of the faux Blue Max from Eduard's Royal kit. It was further sweetened by Eduard with the additional award to the winner of an Eduard WWI aviation kit. Aeroscale staff brought up the point that If Eduard is the one sponsoring awards, it was only natural that the winner be chosen from Eduard / Gavia kits. This may change in the future but for now entrants must build Eduard or Gavia kits for them to be considered.
almonkey
Joined: March 23, 2003
KitMaker: 2,124 posts
AeroScale: 788 posts
Posted: Monday, September 18, 2006 - 10:42 PM UTC
hi all! i was going to have a go in this myself, but with telford looming i have too many projects on the go that need finishing, to be able to give this the full attention it would deserve. so i'm going to sit back, keep an eye on what people are building for this (and no doubt pick up a lot of useful tips!)
the best of luck to all entrants!
the best of luck to all entrants!
jRatz
Joined: March 06, 2004
KitMaker: 1,171 posts
AeroScale: 151 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 05:59 AM UTC
Stephen,
OK, so a sub-goal is to not go so focused on Eduard / Gavia that I mix bits from my Eduard Tripe and Gavia Lysander ... :-) :-)
Anyway, I looked over the instructions today, we'll see how it goes ...
John
OK, so a sub-goal is to not go so focused on Eduard / Gavia that I mix bits from my Eduard Tripe and Gavia Lysander ... :-) :-)
Anyway, I looked over the instructions today, we'll see how it goes ...
John
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Tuesday, September 19, 2006 - 09:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Stephen,
OK, so a sub-goal is to not go so focused on Eduard / Gavia that I mix bits from my Eduard Tripe and Gavia Lysander ... :-) :-) Anyway, I looked over the instructions today, we'll see how it goes ... John
Well...I have doubts about a Sopwith Lysander tripe... but there was a Salamander...lets see with a bit of scratchbuilding... and lets see... a bit of this here
and a bit of that there...
and, wait a minute let me plug in my Dremel and...
Ouch I think I sprained something.
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 08, 2006 - 05:18 AM UTC
Good day everyone;
Here we are a month into the contest preparations. You should have hopefully began your build. Several things to consider are;
a. your 100 (or less) word narrative.
b. photo content...views and angles for your build.
c. when to post your images and information.
For those of you who have asked about critiques here are my responses for everyone's benefit.
1. The only kit I will comment only publicly will be the winner.
2. I will offer private critiques to any who ask for them. In these I will only comment about your build and not compare it to any others present. You may chose to post the critique, but I will not. My aim will be to help the entrant see what I see and to understand my choice concerning their build. It will not be my intent to openly critisize anyone's work.
3. Again the aim is a well built scale model. Sharpening your building skills and enjoying yourself.
4. Judging can be very subjective I promise to do my best to keep my prejudices and preferences to a minimum. You are not expected to produce anything I prefer in subject matter.
5. Basics basics basics!
Here we are a month into the contest preparations. You should have hopefully began your build. Several things to consider are;
a. your 100 (or less) word narrative.
b. photo content...views and angles for your build.
c. when to post your images and information.
For those of you who have asked about critiques here are my responses for everyone's benefit.
1. The only kit I will comment only publicly will be the winner.
2. I will offer private critiques to any who ask for them. In these I will only comment about your build and not compare it to any others present. You may chose to post the critique, but I will not. My aim will be to help the entrant see what I see and to understand my choice concerning their build. It will not be my intent to openly critisize anyone's work.
3. Again the aim is a well built scale model. Sharpening your building skills and enjoying yourself.
4. Judging can be very subjective I promise to do my best to keep my prejudices and preferences to a minimum. You are not expected to produce anything I prefer in subject matter.
5. Basics basics basics!
jRatz
Joined: March 06, 2004
KitMaker: 1,171 posts
AeroScale: 151 posts
Posted: Monday, October 09, 2006 - 06:49 AM UTC
I'm doing the Eduard Profi-Pack Sopwith Triplane -- the 2-gun option, N534, for no particular reason.
I have some CDL mixed, wood color mixed, PC-10 ready. The first coat on the undersides is sprayed, topsides later.
Rigging holes are all drilled & along the way I noticed that Eduard missed the two pairs of drag & anti-drag wires.
I have started the cockpit interior, need to get to work on interior painting.
Should be no problem making 30 Nov.
John
I have some CDL mixed, wood color mixed, PC-10 ready. The first coat on the undersides is sprayed, topsides later.
Rigging holes are all drilled & along the way I noticed that Eduard missed the two pairs of drag & anti-drag wires.
I have started the cockpit interior, need to get to work on interior painting.
Should be no problem making 30 Nov.
John
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 - 02:12 AM UTC
For those of you practicing the "Stachel Smirk" here is what its supposed to look like. Ltn. Bruno Stachel 1918 last photo before last flight.
Phantom2
Joined: April 18, 2006
KitMaker: 708 posts
AeroScale: 678 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 14, 2006 - 03:48 PM UTC
Hi Stephen!
I´m building on the Eduard Albatros D.V Profipack, kit no. 8110.
I have decided to do Oblt. Bruno Loerzer´s kite from Jasta 26, Autumn 1918 as I like the black and white striped fuselage.
I have a question for you;
In the kit you get two propellers (one narrow and one broader), kit parts A15/A9 and two spinners B1/B38 as options.
Nowhere in the instructions are you told which prop/spinner to use for any of the four schemes!
I have not much info about these early aircrafts, so can you please tell me what parts to use for the version I´m building?
Cheers!
Stefan E
I´m building on the Eduard Albatros D.V Profipack, kit no. 8110.
I have decided to do Oblt. Bruno Loerzer´s kite from Jasta 26, Autumn 1918 as I like the black and white striped fuselage.
I have a question for you;
In the kit you get two propellers (one narrow and one broader), kit parts A15/A9 and two spinners B1/B38 as options.
Nowhere in the instructions are you told which prop/spinner to use for any of the four schemes!
I have not much info about these early aircrafts, so can you please tell me what parts to use for the version I´m building?
Cheers!
Stefan E
Removed by original poster on 10/16/06 - 01:05:37 (GMT).
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Saturday, October 14, 2006 - 11:08 PM UTC
Greetings phantom2, I am posting the answer over on the reference thread. I wanted to keep this thread for the contest rules. No worries.
SEE Albie Response
SEE Albie Response
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Friday, November 03, 2006 - 09:28 AM UTC
Tick...Tick...Tick...
jRatz
Joined: March 06, 2004
KitMaker: 1,171 posts
AeroScale: 151 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 04, 2006 - 07:13 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Tick...Tick...Tick...
Yeah, thanks, I needed that ... NOT ... I have let time get away from me and need cracking ... I spent a lot of time on the cockpit & am still not happy with the way the ammo container, shell chutes, floorboard & rudder bar fit -- compared to photos, Eduard has it wrong (ie, the rudder can't move) ... sure hope it's dark in there when the model is done ...
John
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