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. . . wait to make the final decision on this until after I get the whole thing set up on its oval base
The oval does seem to present some problems for ground cover -- mainly getting the curved edge to look neat. I think I recall you mentioning that the edge of the oval would be finished in a light gray so that it looked like a slice carved right out of the landscape. I've seen diorama's done like that (and it's very common with 3D computer-generated landscapes too) and it looks great. It looks really trick when the groundcover is quite irregular and you slice right through it so the bottom of the base is flat but the top has rough contours -- all finished in gray. That would mean having a rough base, applying the terrain so it overlaps the final oval outline, then doing the final cut with a bandsaw, a sabre saw, a shaper or a table-mounted router (if it was me, I'd find a cabinet shop with a big bandsaw & have them make the oval cut). Yeah, easy for me to say cuz it's not my project!!!

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Another problem and it is a biggy,the diorama was designed to be taken apart with the removal of just a few screws.Anything that I put inside I can usually attach to the walls with no problem but the outside is a different story.Things leaning up against the walls or butting up against the foundation can create a lot of design problems.
Yeah, but realistically, how often will it get taken apart? Probably a lot while you're working on it, then almost never once it's on display. Some of the outside stuff might wind up being big enough so that the individual pieces could be built as a unit for easier positioning (like some airframe parts that lean on the wall & also lean against each other). Or a casual pile of useful old lumber laying on the ground and piled against the outside wall which also serves as a base for stuff mounted on top of it (wooden case of empty soda pop bottles, paint cans, rolls of fabric, rusty tools, on-'n-on).

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I always loved the idea of looking from the outside into a warm setting much like you see in Christmas cards or those horse drawn sliegh commercials.Campfires and scenes of glowing interiors has always been a mood that I like to recreate in my art.I love to look through the windows(peeping Tom?) into one room and then on to the next using the lighting to create an atmosphere.This is sort of a compromise between diorama and 5 sided shadow box.This is something relatively new that I am trying here so nothing is really writtin in stone!
i know what your saying -- you had me with that first night shot looking through the doorway into the dimly lit hanger! If you're ever in Chicago, stop by the Museum of Science and Industry and visit Colleen Moore's Fairy Castle exhibit:

http://www.msichicago.org/exhibit/fa...le/Fc_home.htm

When I was a kid, my friends and I spent many summer afternoons at that museum. There were two things that were always "must-sees" -- the dogfighting Stuka and Spitfire hanging from the ceiling of the aircraft hall, and the castle in the basement.

http://www.richard-seaman.com/Aircra...seum/Stuka.jpg

http://www.richard-seaman.com/Aircra...m/Spitfire.jpg
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Thank you Patrick for all the input! I really appreciate you taking the time to help me think this thing through.When the nice weather finally gets here,I think that I will take the whole thing outside and get a better view of the overall composition and scale of the project.
I know that you are right about just how often it would be taken apart for maintenance etc...I guess that I will just have to live with the fact that if a light bulb burns out ,it may just have to stay that way for awhile.That is why I am taking so many pics so I have a record of how it looked when it first rolled out of the shop.
Like I said nothing about this diorama is written in stone ,and to be honest that is the way I like to operate ,as it keeps me interested too not knowing exactly where it will end up.(Art is never finished,it just stops in interesting places)

It is sometimes a lot of fun to take a few objects and make a sort of vignette of them.In this case a leaky rad and old gas tank and an antique gas can make a nice little composition.The sides on the canvas have yet to be glued to the floor but it gives you guys an idea of what I mean.
__________________
It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight.
JohnReid (Aviator)
Guide my hand in your work today.
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Starting to bring it together!
Here is my first attempt to bring the composition together.This is a kind of a sub-story line ,the completion of the dismantling of the JN 1 ,for parts ,for the Canuck.I think that it looks a little too formal in its presentation right now ,but it gives you an idea of where I am going with this.Some things still need painting and more weathering.The wingtip of the other Jenny will fill in the empty space.

2nd OX5 engine.
Awhile back I started on the 2nd OX5 engine for this diorama.I still would like to finish it .The question is where to put it? It is a really interesting engine and should be seen relatively close up to be able to appreciate all the details.I have a choice of leaving it in new condition or weathering it.The engine on the Canuck is a different model than this one, which is more common on the JN4.
Although it would be a little hard to see, it may act as a nice focal point where the grouping of the three figures are ,at the back of the hangar.Sort of gives them something to talk about!Or I could set it out on the ramp area ready to be hauled off to the dump or being delivered new in the crate near the engine shop.

OX5 engine that is in the Canuck!

Went to a miniaturists show and sale today.Great place to find miniature tools in 1/12 and 1/24 scale.Most tools come in many sizes ,so 1/16th is well within the ballpark.
Funny but in this art form the most creative people seem to be making this stuff as a home based ,cottage industry ,to sell to the dollhouse people.I don't see a lot of creative thought being given to scratchbuilding ,they seem to buy just about everything that goes into them. Very few actually attempt to develope an storyline .They are nice and pleasant to look at but would not be considered dioramas.If you think our hobby is expensive,think again! I think it costs as much to furnish these as a real house.
I did pick up a few really cool items that I couldn't resist.I just can't help myself!!!!!!!!

I got the OK from the folks at Model Expo to use some of their OX5 engine diagrams, from the booklet that is supplied with the kit ,for building their 1/16th Jenny JN4D .
With the Jenny model the castings were improved and are now of very good quality.Very little flash cleanup is required and the metal is harder and not subject to distortion when handled carefully.
I like to clean up the metal parts using a soft toothbrush in a alcohol bath followed by good wash with a mild detergent.Some parts I will then seal using a 2/3 laquer and 1/3 laquer thinner mix.Then paint as required.
Well here goes!!!!!!!! I am sure that you will enjoy this engine build with me.

Go John go!!!!

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Basic Block Assembly
The block assembly is pretty straightforward .Just be sure to drill all the holes where indicated and test fit the tubes.I used epoxy glue and joined the two halves together,glued on the 6 bolting feet, and then sealed with the laquer mix and painted it with a white gesso-water mix as a base coat.I then over coated this with a light silver-gray using liqutex silver with a little black gesso added.Don't make things too dark in the beginning as we want to leave lots of room for weathering later on.
This 90HP ,V8,water-cooled engine is one of the earliest ever produced and goes back to the dawn of aviation,1910.Glenn Curtiss,genius that he was,is mainly responsible for its development.

http://www.glennhcurtiss.com/

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The prop shaft housing and the oil pump are actually part of the block casting,so they will be painted the same color as the block.I glued and pinned on the oil pump.The oils fills and copper wire tubing will be glued on later as they are just to subject to breakage if installed now.

The basic block is a little too blueish ,but I will rectify this when I weather it with acrylic washes and pastels.All other parts were left their natural metal color and sealed with the laquer mix.I will give them a coat of matte varnish later in order for the pastels to stick on better to the surface.When glueing these parts I just scrape off the laquer where the parts join together.To be on the safe side I also pin these parts together using steel pins cut to length.
I somehow lost the inner half of the water pump and had to scratchbuild it ,there is also one of the middle bolting feet missing.I had to put a small shim between the camshaft gear box and the engine to get it to sit vertical in order to install the magneto.The mag installation is next.........