More decalling ups and downs :

Paul,

Your custom decals are really fine! I have never done or seen this before. Maybe You can do a tutorial!

Thanks for sharing!

Oliver

Thank you Oliver!
I will maybe think about doing a simple tutorial once I've mastered the technique a little better.
Things like nose art are always going to be very difficult to reproduce any other way than using decals but I'm wondering if it's better to mask and paint the larger stuff especially code letters.

Paul,
Masking instead of decaling yield a real painted on finish, that the best decals and application can only hope to equal. Most of my decaling has some flaw caused by me, the decals, the paint, or any combination. I've thought about trying to learn Masking/painting for at least the various National Insignias, but at my age learning that skill is something that I keep on putting off.
Joel

As you can see there is a nasty white edge around the decal.
I made sure to cut inside the blue of the roundel and gave the decal an extra coat of sealant.
I think the problem is simply that cutting the decal from the sheet breaks the seal and the water can attack the ink.
You can also see where I sliced the decal to allow it to conform to the shape of the raised area in the top right. Again, this breaks the seal and using microset to help the decal lay down has lifted the ink.

It's frustrating as the decal paper is excellent. It's super thin and very strong if only I could overcome this problem with the inkjet ink.

I considered applying sealant around the cut edge of the decal but I'm worried that might bond it to the paper and not allow it to slide off easily.

Paul

I think those decals look great. The 'lack of a crisp finish' may well be accurate to the original and the nose art is especially good. I met a bomb aimer last Christmas, Laurie Woods, and intend on modelling his aircraft so willl need to get decals printed also. Although I may try painting the insignia.

Simon

I LOVE your research. That's the way to make a great model!

Paul your decals are come out nicely but you can only avoid the white edge by using transparent decal film (highly recommended by own experiences!).
Since the paper is white, the edges stay white (unless you touch them up & seal again after cutting).
The problem with the trancparency is - you cannnot print "white". So you need to paint parts (small roundels or inner sections) before applying the decal and only use the white paper when there's no other way or the white is already at the edges.

But don't worry at all - your build is great and after weathering it won't be seen.

Thomas

EDIT: as my first attempt to custom decals I did it on my Bristol B. - printed on transparent film & brushed roundels...

Hi Paul

I've got to say, I'd go with masks if there aren't suitable aftermarket decals available. After the amazing work you've put into the build of this model, I reckon it'll gnaw at you of the markings aren't up to a similarly high standard.

Roundels are no problem to cut from Frisket film etc., but (while I shouldn't speak for him) I reckon Mal might be only to pleased to help out with some Miracle Masks on an outstanding project like this...

All the best

Rowan

Paul: I tend to agree with Rowan on this. Everything you've done to date has been so extraordinary that second-best won't do. I'm not sure if there are masks for wing insignia for the Lancaster, but there are many aftermarket decals that are available. Here are some below.

http://www.ultracast.ca/products/Limited%20Stock/AeroMaster/48-Scale/48-453/

http://www.kitsworld.co.uk/index.php?CATEGORY=4&SUB=6&THISPAGE=1&RADIOSORT=4&PICFILE=435&STKNR=435&STRH=3808&ORDN=2585&RNZ=355709

https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/TM48801

Surely they cannot all be the wrong diameter?

PS, I really like your nose art and I have no issue at all with the squadron letters. They're not "perfect" but they certainly look realistic to me, and squadron codes naturally will have been painted by ground personnel on the base so one wouldn't expect them to be "letter perfect" (pun intended!).

Good luck.

Thanks for your support guys.

Rowan, great minds obviously think alike as I've already approached Mal on the subject of paint masks.

The outboard props on both sides sit a few millimetres proud of the engine casing so a little adjustment is needed on the the prop shafts.

Hi Paul

Good catch. It's interesting that the outboard spinners on both wings are mis-aligned.

All the best

Rowan

Whoa! I can't wait to see more of the exterior on this bird.

Rowan, a tiny issue in the grand scheme; a quick sand of the prop shafts to reduce the length and the all the spinners sit equally.

Brian, I am happy to oblige !

Looking really good, Paul!

I'm ready to try out Mal's paint masks tomorrow with any luck so last preparations :



I reckon I've mixed plenty of paint, let's hope it's enough !

Paul,
Seems I've been rather missing from the party as of late, so I've spent some time catching up from my last post.

Using Mals Masks for the markings and Roundels is really the best idea. Done correctly, they're better then the best decals. Can't wait to see how you apply them, and how they come out. Please do a well detailed update on their application.

Your creation of the plate to cover the removal of the turret really came out great. The roughness of the primer does indeed add to the over all effect.

Joel

Always good to hear your comments Joel, thanks.
I must admit to some nerves regarding the paint masks. I'm sure it'll be fine but I'm trying a new technique without the benefit of a test run.
I'll be sure to give a detailed account of their use from the viewpoint of a first time user.

Overall, I found the masks very simple to use once I'd become accustomed to the way they behave.
Detailed paint mask blogging to come.

Paul,
the F indeed looks painted on because it was painted on.
Joel

It certainly seems to beat messing around with decals; hoping they don't break into pieces, battling to get them to settle down with setting solutions and trying to avoid silvering....

Without any doubt the tricky aspect to using the masks is accurately replacing them to to re-mask a painted area.

Here's my take on the process: