awesome masking job!
well done.
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
A bit of a nosejob
vanize
Joined: January 30, 2006
KitMaker: 1,954 posts
AeroScale: 1,163 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 01:16 PM UTC
guitarlute101
Joined: December 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,121 posts
AeroScale: 1,063 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 03:08 PM UTC
Excellent work, Mikael! Looks much better than any decal. Can't wait to see this one finished. It will be a real "eye catcher" for sure.
Mark
edoardo
Joined: November 30, 2007
KitMaker: 642 posts
AeroScale: 382 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 09:44 PM UTC
Hi Mikael!
very good looking! Your efforts really payed back!
ciao
Edo
very good looking! Your efforts really payed back!
ciao
Edo
thegirl
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Monday, May 17, 2010 - 02:24 AM UTC
The guy's are right . The arrow turned out most excellent 
For the cowling panel . I think this would be easier if it was made out of the beer can . The metal would bend easier then the plastic and hold it's shape . Never tried this , but will be interesting to see how you go about it .
Looking forward to your next up-date
For the cowling panel . I think this would be easier if it was made out of the beer can . The metal would bend easier then the plastic and hold it's shape . Never tried this , but will be interesting to see how you go about it .
Looking forward to your next up-date
md72
#439
Joined: November 05, 2005
KitMaker: 4,950 posts
AeroScale: 3,192 posts
Posted: Monday, May 17, 2010 - 03:25 AM UTC
Mikael,
Most excellent work. The arrows are awesome!
The beer / soda can sounds like the way to go. They're about .003-.005" (.08-.12 mm), should look OK in scale and like Terri says it'll hold the shape. Cutting it shouldn't be too much different than cutting sheet styrene (course the blade might be scrap by time you're done).
The use of beer cans to replace aerospace materials is not unprecented, USAF crew chiefs used them in Viet Nam to patch up holes in F-105s and F-4s.
Most excellent work. The arrows are awesome!
The beer / soda can sounds like the way to go. They're about .003-.005" (.08-.12 mm), should look OK in scale and like Terri says it'll hold the shape. Cutting it shouldn't be too much different than cutting sheet styrene (course the blade might be scrap by time you're done).
The use of beer cans to replace aerospace materials is not unprecented, USAF crew chiefs used them in Viet Nam to patch up holes in F-105s and F-4s.
Mgunns
Joined: December 12, 2008
KitMaker: 1,423 posts
AeroScale: 1,319 posts
Posted: Monday, May 17, 2010 - 03:59 AM UTC
The arrow really turned out well, your efforts and time really paid off. This is really coming along nicely. Can't wait to see what you do with the panel. I agree, the soda/beer can aluminum would probably be the route to take as it is flexible and shape retaining. Good luck
Best
Mark
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Monday, May 17, 2010 - 05:40 AM UTC
Beautiful!
Kornbeef
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,667 posts
AeroScale: 1,551 posts
Posted: Monday, May 17, 2010 - 07:19 AM UTC
It looks abolutely breathtaking, I'm really quite jealous. 
On the beer/soda can thing, I think alu can would shape wonderfully, use a softwood dowel tip sanded to a gentle curve and just run it firmly over the surface and watch curl into shape. It's a much simpler shape than the std DIII cowling panels and one single unit.
You could use something pointed but blunt to create the ridge along the lower edge or add it after from sprue if you wished.
beautiful work
K
On the beer/soda can thing, I think alu can would shape wonderfully, use a softwood dowel tip sanded to a gentle curve and just run it firmly over the surface and watch curl into shape. It's a much simpler shape than the std DIII cowling panels and one single unit.
You could use something pointed but blunt to create the ridge along the lower edge or add it after from sprue if you wished.
beautiful work
K
OEFFAG_153
Joined: February 19, 2010
KitMaker: 1,473 posts
AeroScale: 1,450 posts
Posted: Monday, May 17, 2010 - 08:24 AM UTC
Big Thank You everyone for your very kind words and encouragements – they really mean a lot to me
Also thanks – Terri, – Md72 and – Mgunns for endorsing the alu can theory, You have me convinced I will try the scalpel, like you say, should work as the alu is soft enough.
Kornbeef – Thank You for revealing your secrets of making panels out of beer cans I never really thought of making the ridge as a part of the alu – I'll definaetly try this out. I have some sculpting tools I'll try...
Tonight I did some touching up where my masks had failed. Had to be careful not to overdo it and ruin anything (My brush hand is not as steady as I would like). Just shot a couple of coats of future to seal it. Made it appear a bit darker, but also blended it in with he shiny ply. I'll see if I do some light weathering later at some spots...
I'll be back with an update when there is some progress to show.
Best Regards to everyone, and once again thank you!
Mikael
Also thanks – Terri, – Md72 and – Mgunns for endorsing the alu can theory, You have me convinced
I will try the scalpel, like you say, should work as the alu is soft enough.Kornbeef – Thank You for revealing your secrets of making panels out of beer cans
I never really thought of making the ridge as a part of the alu – I'll definaetly try this out. I have some sculpting tools I'll try...Tonight I did some touching up where my masks had failed. Had to be careful not to overdo it and ruin anything (My brush hand is not as steady as I would like). Just shot a couple of coats of future to seal it. Made it appear a bit darker, but also blended it in with he shiny ply. I'll see if I do some light weathering later at some spots...
I'll be back with an update when there is some progress to show.
Best Regards to everyone, and once again thank you!
Mikael
Bigrip74
Joined: February 22, 2008
KitMaker: 5,026 posts
AeroScale: 2,811 posts
Posted: Monday, May 17, 2010 - 03:22 PM UTC
Mikael, nice build so far. What is your trick in making the fuel tank look like a fuel tank?
Bob
Bob
RAGIII
Joined: June 19, 2007
KitMaker: 604 posts
AeroScale: 600 posts
Posted: Monday, May 17, 2010 - 03:55 PM UTC
Absolutely BEAUTIFUL!
RAGIII
RAGIII
OEFFAG_153
Joined: February 19, 2010
KitMaker: 1,473 posts
AeroScale: 1,450 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - 07:04 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Mikael, nice build so far. What is your trick in making the fuel tank look like a fuel tank?
Bob
Hi Bob,
Thank You very much
This is the first fueltank that I've actually scratch-built. I did it by cutting and bending plastic sheet, a bit like putting together a cardboardbox. The seams were done by using Tamiya tape cut to strips... I did some detailing with PE bits from the sparesbox for fuelcaps etc, also using plastic rods for pipes.
Painting was quite easy, I sprayed some coats of Tamiya "gold". Then some light washes with oils to build up a bit of residue marks and also creating shadows and interest in the surface. I usually do this with a mixture of W&N Ivory Black and Burnt Umber, and lots of thinner, making it a brown/black that reminds a bit of engine oil. An all black mix looks too "much" to me.
Hope this helps.
Best Regards
Mikael
OEFFAG_153
Joined: February 19, 2010
KitMaker: 1,473 posts
AeroScale: 1,450 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - 07:06 AM UTC
Ragiii – Thank You so much for kind remark
Best Regards
Mikael
Best Regards
Mikael
Bigrip74
Joined: February 22, 2008
KitMaker: 5,026 posts
AeroScale: 2,811 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - 07:41 AM UTC
Mikael, thanks for the fuel tank process I will have to try it.
Bob
Bob
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 08:26 AM UTC
For a review the 'Theorem of Progression'. . .
The 'progression develops' thusly.
1.) As soon as you scratchbuild a model, a manufacturer will release a vacuform kit of it.
2.) As soon as you finish the vacuform kit, an injected molded version (this includes slush plastic, resin or metal) of the prototype will be released.
3.) As soon as you convert the injected molded kit of the prototype to the version you want, your version will be released by another manufacturer who will, include the refined versions of the decals, resin or photo etch that you had suggested to them on their website. But they will not mention you or provide you with gratis examples for your trouble.
4.) You can't win.(Because manufactures will inevitably simplify their processes.)
5.) You can't break even. Unless you value your own work.
6.) But, you can publish an article that will give you a chance to review their kit and point out its flaws.
Eduard Model #8242 Albatros D.III OEFFAG 253 1/48 - July 2010 release
The 'progression develops' thusly.
1.) As soon as you scratchbuild a model, a manufacturer will release a vacuform kit of it.
2.) As soon as you finish the vacuform kit, an injected molded version (this includes slush plastic, resin or metal) of the prototype will be released.
3.) As soon as you convert the injected molded kit of the prototype to the version you want, your version will be released by another manufacturer who will, include the refined versions of the decals, resin or photo etch that you had suggested to them on their website. But they will not mention you or provide you with gratis examples for your trouble.
4.) You can't win.(Because manufactures will inevitably simplify their processes.)
5.) You can't break even. Unless you value your own work.
6.) But, you can publish an article that will give you a chance to review their kit and point out its flaws.
Eduard Model #8242 Albatros D.III OEFFAG 253 1/48 - July 2010 release
OEFFAG_153
Joined: February 19, 2010
KitMaker: 1,473 posts
AeroScale: 1,450 posts
Posted: Monday, May 31, 2010 - 07:25 AM UTC
Quoted Text
For a review the 'Theorem of Progression'. . .
The 'progression develops' thusly.
1.) As soon as you scratchbuild a model, a manufacturer will release a vacuform kit of it.
2.) As soon as you finish the vacuform kit, an injected molded version (this includes slush plastic, resin or metal) of the prototype will be released.
3.) As soon as you convert the injected molded kit of the prototype to the version you want, your version will be released by another manufacturer who will, include the refined versions of the decals, resin or photo etch that you had suggested to them on their website. But they will not mention you or provide you with gratis examples for your trouble.
4.) You can't win.(Because manufactures will inevitably simplify their processes.)
5.) You can't break even. Unless you value your own work.
6.) But, you can publish an article that will give you a chance to review their kit and point out its flaws. . .
Oh yes indeed, you can't bypass the laws of modelling – But mine is still larger
BTW, looks like Eduard will let us build both the late 153 and 253 versions from what I can see in the sprue shots??? Perhaps there will be another kit coming soon...
Mikael
Kornbeef
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,667 posts
AeroScale: 1,551 posts
Posted: Monday, May 31, 2010 - 08:12 PM UTC
I'm sorely tempted to follow you on this build Mikael.
I do wish someone would produce a useable kit in 1:32 but as I said earlier in the thread, the thought of scratching the engne is the most daunting..maybe if a cheap DIII comes up somewhere like a show or Ebay.....
I dont think it will match yours though, nor even come close.
Keith
I do wish someone would produce a useable kit in 1:32 but as I said earlier in the thread, the thought of scratching the engne is the most daunting..maybe if a cheap DIII comes up somewhere like a show or Ebay.....
I dont think it will match yours though, nor even come close.
Keith
OEFFAG_153
Joined: February 19, 2010
KitMaker: 1,473 posts
AeroScale: 1,450 posts
Posted: Monday, May 31, 2010 - 10:34 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I'm sorely tempted to follow you on this build Mikael.
I do wish someone would produce a useable kit in 1:32 but as I said earlier in the thread, the thought of scratching the engne is the most daunting..maybe if a cheap DIII comes up somewhere like a show or Ebay.....
I dont think it will match yours though, nor even come close.
Keith
Keith – Glad I wetted your apetite
They are really good looking machines – I'm sure you could do a great job out of a Roden DIII, and I'm sure you could more than match my atempt. It has been a very rewarding build so far, and getting close to the end I'm glad I took the plunge. It has certainly strethed my abilitys a bit, and I mean this in a good way, getting me to try things I don't normally do. Makes me think I might do an Alabtros W.4 at some point
Keith – about scratching the engine... I have a suggestion, I chucked most of what was left of the B.A. kit in the bin. But I've salvaged two winter cowlings, which were in the box as an option. I may do a build in the future but I don't need two (I think one is for the round nose, and one is for the regular?).
If you want to I can post you the one I don't need, and you would not have to scratch an engine. Mind you they are very crude pieces of B.A. plastic. Send me a message with your adress if you're intersested.
Best Regards
Mikael
Greenonions
Joined: February 26, 2010
KitMaker: 74 posts
AeroScale: 71 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 01:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
For a review the 'Theorem of Progression'. . .
The 'progression develops' thusly.
1.) As soon as you scratchbuild a model, a manufacturer will release a vacuform kit of it.
2.) As soon as you finish the vacuform kit, an injected molded version (this includes slush plastic, resin or metal) of the prototype will be released.
3.) As soon as you convert the injected molded kit of the prototype to the version you want, your version will be released by another manufacturer who will, include the refined versions of the decals, resin or photo etch that you had suggested to them on their website. But they will not mention you or provide you with gratis examples for your trouble.
4.) You can't win.(Because manufactures will inevitably simplify their processes.)
5.) You can't break even. Unless you value your own work.
6.) But, you can publish an article that will give you a chance to review their kit and point out its flaws.
Eduard Model #8242 Albatros D.III OEFFAG 253 1/48 - July 2010 release
Im looking forward to the day when the the forum combines its skills and knowhow to produce its own kits.
edoardo
Joined: November 30, 2007
KitMaker: 642 posts
AeroScale: 382 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 02:42 AM UTC
THAT SHOULD REALLY BE FUN!
OEFFAG_153
Joined: February 19, 2010
KitMaker: 1,473 posts
AeroScale: 1,450 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 07:38 AM UTC
Only one problem: Who'll do the nitpicking and review
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 03:53 PM UTC
I am your Huckleberry, Nitpicking and reviews that just my game. Say when. . .
thegirl
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 05:12 PM UTC
Okay , When ...hehehehe
Kornbeef
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,667 posts
AeroScale: 1,551 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 07:58 PM UTC
Thanks for the offer Mikael, but knowing BA as I do...I'd probably bin it too when I received it.
I have a DIII in the scrap pile. I really warped a fuselage half trying to fast dry the oils when woodgraining the interior on my DI and had to swap the parts so maybe between builds I'll tinker using your build for inspiration. I've 3 Albi 1:32 builds in the line as is.
K
I have a DIII in the scrap pile. I really warped a fuselage half trying to fast dry the oils when woodgraining the interior on my DI and had to swap the parts so maybe between builds I'll tinker using your build for inspiration. I've 3 Albi 1:32 builds in the line as is.
K
OEFFAG_153
Joined: February 19, 2010
KitMaker: 1,473 posts
AeroScale: 1,450 posts
Posted: Friday, June 04, 2010 - 08:55 AM UTC
Hi Everybody – time for another update on the Austrian job.
Starting to get close to the finishing line on this one now, i've been busy with detailing and finishing all the remaining small bits. And ofcourse doing the engine cover panel out of a beer can
I did this with the methods described by among ohters Kornbeef, Terri, Mark and Mark, and it worked quite well. Although I had to make a few atempts and the final shape is not 100% – I'm still pretty happy with the result. next time It'll be perfect
I have also put on crosses and numbers, done the rigging points and fitted the landing gear...
Here are some pics of the progress so far...
Beer (or actually cola light) can cover panel and exhausts in place. I've done a mottled metallic effect to simulate a machined surface. I did the ridges by pressing various tools in the can – but after painting, they almost disapeared - Oh well, next time...
This side will be uncovered to show off the engine and left gun cover panel will also be left open.
The serial numbers are dry transfers from Archer. They are actually German WWII tank numbers – but with a bit of modification they are a pretty good match. Also very easy to work with – I did the modifications by cutting and scraping on the back of the sheet before application.
Landing gear in the process of rigging.
Well that only leaves some small details, and a bit of light weathering – then some final finishes and a coat of future before putting on the top wing + some rigging.
Next time It'll be pics of the finished model. All and any comments are most welcome.
Til next time – Thank You for watching
Mikael
Starting to get close to the finishing line on this one now, i've been busy with detailing and finishing all the remaining small bits. And ofcourse doing the engine cover panel out of a beer can
I did this with the methods described by among ohters Kornbeef, Terri, Mark and Mark, and it worked quite well. Although I had to make a few atempts and the final shape is not 100% – I'm still pretty happy with the result. next time It'll be perfect
I have also put on crosses and numbers, done the rigging points and fitted the landing gear...
Here are some pics of the progress so far...
Beer (or actually cola light) can cover panel and exhausts in place. I've done a mottled metallic effect to simulate a machined surface. I did the ridges by pressing various tools in the can – but after painting, they almost disapeared - Oh well, next time...
This side will be uncovered to show off the engine and left gun cover panel will also be left open.
The serial numbers are dry transfers from Archer. They are actually German WWII tank numbers – but with a bit of modification they are a pretty good match. Also very easy to work with – I did the modifications by cutting and scraping on the back of the sheet before application.
Landing gear in the process of rigging.
Well that only leaves some small details, and a bit of light weathering – then some final finishes and a coat of future before putting on the top wing + some rigging.
Next time It'll be pics of the finished model. All and any comments are most welcome.
Til next time – Thank You for watching
Mikael
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