Thanks Mark for your nice comment.
Building biplanes might look scary but they are not as hard as they look, give it a go, there are plenty of very helpful people here who are more than willing to give you advice.
Des.
Early Aviation
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Discuss World War I and the early years of aviation thru 1934.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
Roden 1:32 Spad VII c.1 Lafayette Escadrille
wombat58
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 29, 2010 - 01:08 AM UTC
Mgunns
Joined: December 12, 2008
KitMaker: 1,423 posts
AeroScale: 1,319 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 29, 2010 - 01:29 AM UTC
Hi Des:This is really coming along nicely. This kit with those decals is on my post marriage, fall to do list and your work is really motivating. The brass tube in the machine gun is a nice touch. I am looking forward to more and your approach to rigging.
Take care
Mark
wombat58
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Friday, July 30, 2010 - 02:40 AM UTC
I glossed the fuselage sides with Humbrol gloss No.35, once dry I applied the Pheon Models decals. The decals went on extremely well and adhered to the gloss surface beautifully, there was no silvering at all. When the decals were dry I sprayed two coats of Humbrol Matt Cote.
My photography does not show the true brilliance of these decals.
The kit supplied aileron activating linkages are out of scale and very bulky so I manufactured new ones using small diameter brass tubing and left over PE frets. The last photo shows the initial stages of construction with more work to be done before they are completed.,they are small so are fiddly to work with.
Des
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
My photography does not show the true brilliance of these decals.
The kit supplied aileron activating linkages are out of scale and very bulky so I manufactured new ones using small diameter brass tubing and left over PE frets. The last photo shows the initial stages of construction with more work to be done before they are completed.,they are small so are fiddly to work with.
Des
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
thegirl
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Friday, July 30, 2010 - 03:43 AM UTC
The Pheon decals look like they are painted on ! Very nice realistic exhaust , they look real as well as the gun sight .
Looking forward to the next up-date Des
Looking forward to the next up-date Des
CaptainA
Joined: May 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,117 posts
AeroScale: 2,270 posts
Posted: Friday, July 30, 2010 - 04:22 AM UTC
Mark, Fear not the biplane, They have basically the same number of pieces as other kits. They are made from the same plastic, and use the same adhesives. Rigging and an extra wing are the only real differences in the construction phase. The biggest difference in these biplanes is the satisfaction you get when you finish one.
Des. I think you and I have much the same philosophy when it comes to building. I also do not go for the "big" name. Genealogy and golf are my other hobbies. Golf really does not lend much to modeling, but genealogy really makes things interesting. I have done some basic research for a few other people here. One found he has a bunch of cousins living near him, that spell their nam differently. Mostly, this research lends a little more interest to the builds. We build good representations, but the research makes them a little more realistic.
I am happy to do some research for anybody out there who would like to know about their family, or their subject.. Just pm me.
Your build looks fantastic. Those actuators are amazing, as all your scratch built parts are. I think we may be looking at the MOM real soon here.
Des. I think you and I have much the same philosophy when it comes to building. I also do not go for the "big" name. Genealogy and golf are my other hobbies. Golf really does not lend much to modeling, but genealogy really makes things interesting. I have done some basic research for a few other people here. One found he has a bunch of cousins living near him, that spell their nam differently. Mostly, this research lends a little more interest to the builds. We build good representations, but the research makes them a little more realistic.
I am happy to do some research for anybody out there who would like to know about their family, or their subject.. Just pm me.
Your build looks fantastic. Those actuators are amazing, as all your scratch built parts are. I think we may be looking at the MOM real soon here.
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Friday, July 30, 2010 - 04:56 AM UTC
Quoted Text
". . .Your build looks fantastic. Those actuators are amazing, as all your scratch built parts are. I think we may be looking at the MOM real soon here."
Very impressive Des. I agree with Carl. Its coming along nicely!
wombat58
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Friday, July 30, 2010 - 07:35 PM UTC
Thanks for all the kind words, much appreciated.
I completed the aileron linkages, apart from the painting, and fitted them to the wings, it was a little fiddly but I think well worth it.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
I completed the aileron linkages, apart from the painting, and fitted them to the wings, it was a little fiddly but I think well worth it.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
MrMox
Joined: July 18, 2003
KitMaker: 3,377 posts
AeroScale: 115 posts
Posted: Friday, July 30, 2010 - 10:15 PM UTC
More than worth it - looks beautiful!
Cheers/Jan
Cheers/Jan
wombat58
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Monday, August 02, 2010 - 06:37 PM UTC
Just the one photo this time showing that work is still progressing on the Spad. The aileron linkages are on, the windscreen is also fitted, the rudder is completed and fitted (apart from the control cables) and exhausts are on, also the cabanes.. I'm just about up to the rigging stage.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
JackFlash
Joined: January 25, 2004
KitMaker: 11,669 posts
AeroScale: 11,011 posts
Posted: Monday, August 02, 2010 - 07:40 PM UTC
The Bell Cranks are beautiful!
Mgunns
Joined: December 12, 2008
KitMaker: 1,423 posts
AeroScale: 1,319 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 - 02:57 AM UTC
Hi Des:I have to hand it to you, the model is really looking good. The brass bell cranks really stand out nicely and are noticeable. Keep those pictures coming.
Best
Mark
wombat58
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 01:05 AM UTC
Thanks Stephen and Mark, your comments are always much appreciated.
These photos show the interplane struts fixed in position. I have loosely rigged the cabanes, there is not a lot of space in this area once the top wing goes on so pre-rigging will make it a lot easier. As with most of my models I have painted the colours on the rudder instead of using decals, it's just something I prefer to do.....
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
These photos show the interplane struts fixed in position. I have loosely rigged the cabanes, there is not a lot of space in this area once the top wing goes on so pre-rigging will make it a lot easier. As with most of my models I have painted the colours on the rudder instead of using decals, it's just something I prefer to do.....
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
thegirl
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 02:10 AM UTC
Hi Des
Very nice so far . Now that me brain hurts from the over thinking . For in between the inter struts could you drill out the short blue tubes sticking out and using a fine wirer slip into the holes by slipping one end of the wire in and then sliding it up into the other hole and fix in place with glue ?
Looking forward to seeing the outcome
Very nice so far . Now that me brain hurts from the over thinking . For in between the inter struts could you drill out the short blue tubes sticking out and using a fine wirer slip into the holes by slipping one end of the wire in and then sliding it up into the other hole and fix in place with glue ?
Looking forward to seeing the outcome
Kornbeef
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,667 posts
AeroScale: 1,551 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 04:20 AM UTC
This is turning out to be a real gem of a build and a font of knowledge too.
Excellent work and clever thinking.
K
Excellent work and clever thinking.
K
wombat58
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 09:00 AM UTC
Thanks Terri and Keith for your kind words.
Terri.
The rigging brackets (the blue bits) on the interplane struts for the stagger or incidence cables have been drilled using a 0.2mm drill bit, the 0.12mm mono will pass through the holes and loop back through a brass tube then secured with a small drop of CA. The inboard interplane strut with the centre cross member has had four eyelets fitted,one in each corner where the cross member connects to the strut, the eyelets are made from 0.1mm wire twisted around a 0.2mm drill bit. I will fit the stagger wires to these eyelets then connect the other end to the usual strut bracket.
To take the flying wires and landing wires I fitted 24 eyelets, 6 on each strut where the cross member connects to the strut, again I used 0.1mm wire but this time I double looped it through 0.3mm holes creating an eyelet on each side of the strut. Because they are so small they are very hard to see in the photos but they will be more visible once the rigging is attached. Due to the fragile nature of these particular struts and the fact that the cables are attached in the centre of the strut, applying tension to the cables will be a bit tricky, any undue weight will bend the strut out of shape.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
Terri.
The rigging brackets (the blue bits) on the interplane struts for the stagger or incidence cables have been drilled using a 0.2mm drill bit, the 0.12mm mono will pass through the holes and loop back through a brass tube then secured with a small drop of CA. The inboard interplane strut with the centre cross member has had four eyelets fitted,one in each corner where the cross member connects to the strut, the eyelets are made from 0.1mm wire twisted around a 0.2mm drill bit. I will fit the stagger wires to these eyelets then connect the other end to the usual strut bracket.
To take the flying wires and landing wires I fitted 24 eyelets, 6 on each strut where the cross member connects to the strut, again I used 0.1mm wire but this time I double looped it through 0.3mm holes creating an eyelet on each side of the strut. Because they are so small they are very hard to see in the photos but they will be more visible once the rigging is attached. Due to the fragile nature of these particular struts and the fact that the cables are attached in the centre of the strut, applying tension to the cables will be a bit tricky, any undue weight will bend the strut out of shape.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
md72
#439
Joined: November 05, 2005
KitMaker: 4,950 posts
AeroScale: 3,192 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 09:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
To take the flying wires and landing wires I fitted 24 eyelets, 6 on each strut where the cross member connects to the strut, again I used 0.1mm wire but this time I double looped it through 0.3mm holes creating an eyelet on each side of the strut.
Des, in your day job are you a micro surgeon or something?????? The attention to tiny details (.1mm = .004") is astounding.
BTW where to you get the sub mm drills and wires?
dmopath
Joined: July 02, 2010
KitMaker: 175 posts
AeroScale: 174 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 11:16 AM UTC
Excellent work. Your attention to detail continues to shine through. This build will be a benchmark that I will constantly reference when I eventually get to this kit. Too bad my old eyes and fumble fingers can’t handle such intricate work, but I shall try to emulate it as much as I can.
wombat58
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 12:17 PM UTC
Thanks Mark and Dennis for your comments.
Mark.
The fine wire is stripped from multi strand electronic equipment wiring, you will find that the wires inside these cables are very fine and in most cases they are plated copper wire. The one I am using at present, the 0.1mm is about as small as you can get.
The micro drill bits are readily available from most good hobby suppliers, or you can check ebay by typing in Micro Drill Bits. I buy most of my drill bits through ebay, they come in packs of 10 or 20 and are usually only about $5 - $9. You do get the odd dud drill bit but that's little consequence.
Dennis.
My old eyes and hands are really battling sometimes to do the fine work but it's the love of the hobby that keeps me going.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
Mark.
The fine wire is stripped from multi strand electronic equipment wiring, you will find that the wires inside these cables are very fine and in most cases they are plated copper wire. The one I am using at present, the 0.1mm is about as small as you can get.
The micro drill bits are readily available from most good hobby suppliers, or you can check ebay by typing in Micro Drill Bits. I buy most of my drill bits through ebay, they come in packs of 10 or 20 and are usually only about $5 - $9. You do get the odd dud drill bit but that's little consequence.
Dennis.
My old eyes and hands are really battling sometimes to do the fine work but it's the love of the hobby that keeps me going.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
thegirl
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 05, 2010 - 03:24 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks Terri and Keith for your kind words.
Terri.
The rigging brackets (the blue bits) on the interplane struts for the stagger or incidence cables have been drilled using a 0.2mm drill bit, the 0.12mm mono will pass through the holes and loop back through a brass tube then secured with a small drop of CA. The inboard interplane strut with the centre cross member has had four eyelets fitted,one in each corner where the cross member connects to the strut, the eyelets are made from 0.1mm wire twisted around a 0.2mm drill bit. I will fit the stagger wires to these eyelets then connect the other end to the usual strut bracket.
To take the flying wires and landing wires I fitted 24 eyelets, 6 on each strut where the cross member connects to the strut, again I used 0.1mm wire but this time I double looped it through 0.3mm holes creating an eyelet on each side of the strut. Because they are so small they are very hard to see in the photos but they will be more visible once the rigging is attached. Due to the fragile nature of these particular struts and the fact that the cables are attached in the centre of the strut, applying tension to the cables will be a bit tricky, any undue weight will bend the strut out of shape.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
I'm sorry Des , didn't know that you already did that . Thank-you though for sharing on how you did it , very kind of you
You are right , went back to have a look and yes , one has to look hard ! wombat58
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 07, 2010 - 10:10 PM UTC
Roden did not include a pitot tube assemly with the kit so I manufactured one using 0.25mm copper wire and left over PE fret material. I also made a new fuel pipe assembly, this fits under the top wing. The kit supplied pipes are OK but mine broke into three pieces when I tried to remove it from the sprue, it was easier to make a new one than to repair the broken one.
The second photo shows the decals applied to the top wing, two coats of Humbrol Matt Cote have also been sprayed over the wing after the decals were dry.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
The second photo shows the decals applied to the top wing, two coats of Humbrol Matt Cote have also been sprayed over the wing after the decals were dry.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
wombat58
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 08, 2010 - 11:54 PM UTC
I have started the rigging by making and fitting the small turnbuckles to the under side of the top wing. I drilled 0.4mm holes in the wing then glued the twisted wire of the turnbuckle, once the glue was dry I bent the turnbuckle down to the angle of the rigging.
The turnbuckles are very easy to make, I used 0.4mm brass tube drilled out to 0.3mm and cut to 2mm long. I used 0.13mm copper wire twisted around a 0.3mm drill bit to form an eyelet, I then inserted this into the brass tube and held it with a drop of CA.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
The turnbuckles are very easy to make, I used 0.4mm brass tube drilled out to 0.3mm and cut to 2mm long. I used 0.13mm copper wire twisted around a 0.3mm drill bit to form an eyelet, I then inserted this into the brass tube and held it with a drop of CA.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
wombat58
Joined: March 26, 2009
KitMaker: 366 posts
AeroScale: 309 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 - 01:29 AM UTC
I have mounted the top wing and commenced the rigging. The cabane rigging is completed, I also added the four wing bracing rods, I used 0.4mm brass tube, the new fuel pipes are also added.
The second photo shows what I was trying to explain earlier about the complicated rigging connection on the inboard interplane struts. It's very hard to see here but there are six small eyelets fitted to the strut, one for each of the rigging lines, plus little eyelets for the stagger wires. Putting tension on the rigging and keeping the strut straight was a tricky exercise as the strut is weak and bends very easy, As you can imagine this is very small, so working was time consuming, fiddly and a strain on the eyes.
What I have shown here is only a 1/4 of the rigging. Please excuse the dust all over the wing, no time to clean up.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
The second photo shows what I was trying to explain earlier about the complicated rigging connection on the inboard interplane struts. It's very hard to see here but there are six small eyelets fitted to the strut, one for each of the rigging lines, plus little eyelets for the stagger wires. Putting tension on the rigging and keeping the strut straight was a tricky exercise as the strut is weak and bends very easy, As you can imagine this is very small, so working was time consuming, fiddly and a strain on the eyes.
What I have shown here is only a 1/4 of the rigging. Please excuse the dust all over the wing, no time to clean up.
Des.
http://www.ww1aircraftmodels.com
thegirl
Joined: January 19, 2008
KitMaker: 6,743 posts
AeroScale: 6,151 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 - 02:52 AM UTC
Awesome job on the rigging and I tip my hat to you for over coming the dilemma on how to rig the intern struts . Well done my friend !
Looking forward to seeing this one wrapped up !
Looking forward to seeing this one wrapped up !
gcn123
Joined: September 13, 2007
KitMaker: 69 posts
AeroScale: 60 posts
KitMaker: 69 posts
AeroScale: 60 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 01:08 AM UTC
Hi Des, cracking model and some excellent tips as well.
I'm intersted in the colours you have used on the rudder for the Red and Blue.
I have seen elsewhere someone use Citadel Blood Red and Regal Blue to good effect but I have no experience of spraying these paints.
I'm intersted in the colours you have used on the rudder for the Red and Blue.
I have seen elsewhere someone use Citadel Blood Red and Regal Blue to good effect but I have no experience of spraying these paints.
Kornbeef
Joined: November 06, 2005
KitMaker: 1,667 posts
AeroScale: 1,551 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 12, 2010 - 01:28 AM UTC
Gary, Citadel paints are a dream to work with. I use them considerably, the metallics are good too. Just working out the colours in relationship to normally named can be off putting Bleached bone for instance is a fair shabe for linen.
Keith
Keith
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